Plug-in Round Wood Wall LED Lamp | Portable Circle Socket Plug Night Lamp : 58 Steps (with Pictures)

My kids wanted a night lamp... so, it was a good excuse for starting a new project!

I decided to try a special design of my own from wood, but to make it portable to any wall socket plug, and not a permanent installation with screws.

As you will see below, it looks simple but had a lot of work and steps, but it worth it and I'm very happy with the result.

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Thank you! :)

Supplies

General List of tools I'm using - https://www.itzikdiy.com/tools-list?m=1

Tools in this Instructable:

Sliding Miter saw or other saw
Jigsaw
Measuring tape
For the rounded cuts I used my dremel with the following tools:
Dremel & Line & Circle Cutter (678) Accessory - UK - https://amzn.to/36NxASj - US https://amzn.to/32Z6EOj Dremel 561 Multipurpose Cutting Bit - UK - https://amzn.to/3nC0kEp US - https://amzn.to/3rCRLLX
Dremel Sanding drum
Drill driver & Wood drill bits
Drill press stand
Drum Sander attachment for drill
Clamps
Soldering iron
Glue gun
Sander - https://amzn.to/36NxASj
Sanding paper
Pencil
90 Degrees Angle ruler
Disc sander
Wood Trimmer
Hand saw
Chisel
Small electric switch
12V Flexible led Strip ~240cm (I used 5630 300SMD Un-Waterproof)
DC 12V 1A Power Supply Adapter
DC female connector
Heat gun for Shrink Wrapping

Materials:

Some wood boards leftovers. I used Oak & Pine 18-20mm

Some small wood scrap pieces

Screws

Wood glue

Epoxy glue (Poxipol)

Clear protective topcoat

Acrylic plastic / acrylic glass / plexiglass (I took from Led panel lamps - LGP part)

Step 1: The Video

You can see the full process of the making and testing in the video.

Enjoy!

Step 2: First Measurements

Before starting to plan the lamp design, I measured the electrical wall sockets I have at home (all are Gewiss sockets).

I wanter that the lamp will cover the socket frame as much as possible, so it will look better, so I needt to know the width/height in order to calculate the diameter of the circle.

I also put the power supply adapter I planned to use, in the socket, so I can check the height it takes from the center of the socket and also the depth required for the lamp to cover it.

Step 3: Initial 3D Plan

I did a quick 3D plan, of the lamp design that came up to my mind...

The diameter is 16.5cm and the thickness is 6cm.

Step 4: Cutting Circles!

I prepared my Dremel 4000 & the Line & Circle Cutter Accessory (678), to cut the rounded shapes.

This accessory uses a special cutting bit (Dremel 561 Multipurpose Cutting Bit).

I used it a lot in this project, in order to cut different materials, but it has some limitations, as you'll see in later steps...

The Dremel circular cutter has a nail which should be placed in the center of the circle, as an axis.

The cutting bit turns arround the axis for cutting circles.

I marked the center of the circle on the wood, and drilled a hole for the nail.

Then, I cut 2 circles (~17cm diameter) from the pine wood board (17mm).

Step 5: Another Circle - Going Hard

The next wood I tried to cut with the Dremel Circle Cutter Accessory, is Oak.

This wood is very hard, in contrast to pine which I cut before.

It was hard for the Multipurpose Cutting Bit to cut the Oak. It was very very slow and there was some smoke, so I decided to find another solution

Step 6: Trying With the Jigsaw

In continue to the previous step, I decided to use the Jigsaw in order to cut the circle from the Oak, which was too hard to cut with the Dremel accessories.

I made a simple Circle cutting Jig for the Jigsaw. It wasn't mandatory, but it gives more precise cuts.

I cut ~17cm diameter circle from the Oak. The cutting went better with the Jigsaw...

The circle wasn't perfect, but I'll fix it on the next step.

Step 7: Sanding the Oak Circle

In order to make the Oak circle perfect, I marked a bit smaller circle over the piece I cut with the Jigsaw (~16.5cm diameter).

Later I sanded the piece using a Sanding Disc (Or to be accurate - an improvised "Sanding Disc", using my Angle grinder, with sanding attachment).

The Oak piece is going to be at the front of the Lamp and it will be the circle shape guide for the rest of the pieces, as you'll see later.

Step 8: Trimming Rounded Edges

I assume you can notice the different hands here.

Can you guess who did the rounded edges using the wood Trimmer for me? :)

Step 9: Light Guide Panel

I needed a transparent plastic for the lamp.

I had some faulty Led panel lamps, so I decided to take the parts from them.

I think that the parts that I took called LGP (Light Guide Panel) and made of "Acrylic plastic" / "Acrylic glass" / "Plexiglass".

These were perfect for the project.

Step 10: Some More Circles

I cut 2 more circles from the 'Acrylic plastic' I took from the led panels (~17cm diameter).

Step 11: Inner Circles Cutting - 1

I needed that the lamp will have a 'casing' shape (empty inside the circle), so besides the Oak piece on the front, all other circular pieces I cut before needs to be cut again inside of them.

I changed the diameter of the Dremel circle cutter and reduced it to 15.5cm (so it will remain about 1.5cm from the circle frame).

I cut circles inside the 2 plastic circles.

Step 12: Inner Circles Cutting - 2

Next, I cut circles inside the 2 pine circles.

Step 13: 4 Empty Circles Are Ready

Step 14: Gluing the Empty Circles - 1

I used Epoxy glue to connect the 4 pieces of plastic and pine.

Step 15: Gluing the Empty Circles - 2

I applied the glue on the wood & plastic materials, and connected the 4 layers.

Pine Wood --> Plastic --> Pine Wood --> Plastic

Step 16: Gluing the Empty Circles - 3

Step 17: Clamping the Empty Circular Pieces

I used 4 clamps to hold the 4 pieces with the Epoxy Glue and left it to dry.

Step 18: Initial Inner Sanding Using the Dremel

I made a quick rough sanding of the inner side of the glued circles, using the Dremel Sanding drum attachment.

Step 19: Second Inner Sanding Using the Drum Sander

I used a DIY drum sander attachment I made for a drill, and connected it to a drill press.

I sanded the inner side of the circle, to have better smooth surface inside and remove all the Epoxy glue leftovers from the plastic.

The plastic has to be smooth to pass the led light clearly.

The inner side of the circles didn't came out accurate as I wanted... but this side isn't seen so it wasn't too important in this case.

Step 20: Gluing the Empty Circles to the Oak Circle

As I did for the empty parts, also here I used Epoxy glue to connect the pieces together.

I tooke the empty glued parts and applied the glue over the side with the plastic.

Then I connected the Oak to the plastic.

Step 21: Clamping All of the Circular Pieces

I used 4 clamps to hold the pieces with the Epoxy Glue and left it to dry.

Step 22: The Glued Circular Block

Step 23: Sanding All of the Circle Block

I sanded all of the glued pieces using a "Sanding Disc".

I used the top Oak piece as a guide, since it was alreay perfect circle and also harder material than the plastic and pine wood.

I sanded until the sides were aligned with the Oak and smooth.

Step 24: Smooth Sides

I was very happy with the results.

This is the first time I'm making such project with Epoxy, wood, plastic, and Disc sander, and I didn't think I'll get such result.

Very satisfying :)

Step 25: Initial Light Check

I still didn't connect any led lights to the lamp... but I wanted to see that the sanded transparent plastic transfer light good enough.

I put the wooden circle close to another lamp in the room and saw that the plastic is clear as I planned.

Step 26: Final Sanding

For final sanding, I used a random orbit sander.

I sanded mostly the top Oak at this phase.

Step 27: After Sanding

Step 28: Painting

I painted the wood with a protective topcoat.

Step 29: After Drying

Step 30: Cutting a Slot in the Circle

This part was hard for me...

After having a perfect circle, I had to cut a slot for the lamp's power switch :)

I had to make it carefully. I used a hand saw and a chisel to clean the slot.

Step 31: Checking the Switch Position

I put the switch, just to see that it fits.

Step 32: The LED Power Adapter

I used 12V 1A DC Power Supply Adapter.

I put 2 metal parts I had, on the back of the adapter. I'm not sure it's required but I thought that it's better that it's not directy touch the wood when it might get hot.

I put the adapter on the back of the Oak wood inside the circle, and covered it with a metal bracket that I had.

I centered the adapter so its 2 heads will be on the middle of the circle, and marked the position.

Step 33: Initial Placing the Adapter

I drilled 2 holes, for the metal bracket, and connected the Adapter with 2 screws, to see that it holds it tight.

Step 34: The Led Strip

In this project I used a 12V Flexible led Strip that I had (5630 300SMD Un-Waterproof).

I used this type on some project and it's pretty strong led.

Step 35: Gluing the Led Strip - 1

I removed the DC adapter which I put befoe, and started to glue the Strip around the inner circle of the wood.

The strip has it's own glue behind it, and it's good enough.

The strip was glued over the 2 circles of the Pine wood, in one piece.

As you'll see in the picture on the next step, I did a small folding of the strip, in order to 'jump' from one wood line to the other... The strip is flexible enough to make it.

Finally, I cut the strip on the 'cutting line'.

Step 36: Gluing the Led Strip - 2

Step 37: Putting Back the Power Adapter

After gluing the LED Strip, I put back the Adapter as before.

Step 38: Connecting DC Female Connector

I connected a DC female connector to the male connector of the power adapter.

I could just cut the adapter wire and connect it directly, but it's better to go with connectors, in case you need to replace one of the parts later easily.

Step 39: Soldering the Wires

I soldered the minus wire of the led strip, to the minus wire of the adapter, using a Soldering iron.

Finally, I used a heat gun for shrink wrapping over the connection.

Step 40: Gluing the Power Switch

I used a glue gun in order to connect the switch in the slot I prepared before.

Step 41: Soldering the Wires

I soldered the plus wire of the led strip & the plus wire of the adapter, to both connections of the power switch.

Step 42:

Step 43: Lamp Is Ready

Step 44: Initial Testing

I connected the lamp to one of the plugs at home.

As I thought, the lamp was bent over a bit, since the only thing that holds it, is the power adapter socket plug.

The lamp weight required additional support which I added in the next steps.

If you saw before, that I connected the power adapter upsite down, It was in order to leave some space below for addition support.

Step 45: Measurment for the Support Additions

I measured the distance from the wall, to the Oak piece, So I'll know the size required for the bottom and sides supports for the lamp.

Step 46: Adding the Bottom Support

I took some small pieces of pine wood and cut them and created "L" shape with glue.

The length of the "L" was 5.5 cm long, as I measured on the previous step.

I glued the "L" to the bottom of the lamp.

Step 47: Side View

Step 48: Adding Side Support

For final support, I decided to add sides support using 2 side "hooks" which will be attached to the Gewiss socket, behind the black plastic (not the white frame).

The hooks will be short and although they're made of metal, I don't see an electrocution risk, since they doesn't reach to the electric parts. If you think it's too risky, I would love to hear in the comments.

Step 49: Making the Side "hooks"

I cut 2 strips of metal and bent them as can be seen in the photos.

Later I drilled hole in one side and put a small screw.

Step 50: Connecting the Side "hooks"

I connected each hook with a screw to the Oak board.

Step 51: Bottom View

Step 52: Attaching the Lamp With the "hooks" - Top View

As I explained before, each hook is attached to the Gewiss socket, behind the black plastic (not the white frame). See the picture without the wite frame and later with the frame.

I pulled the 2 hooks with my fingers so they will be wider than the socket, and released.