Royal Quiet De Luxe Typewriter Restoration

I have wanted an old school typewriter for the office for a long time, but so did everyone else in recent years. This demand has driven up prices for these nostalgic pieces more than I was willing to pay. I didn't want one that bad!

But then, when I stopped actively looking, I spotted this little guy at my local thrift store for less than 10 US dollars. The only "problem" was that it needed quite a bit of care. Others may see it as a deal breaker, but these restoration projects are what I like doing.

Cheap price + a challenge?! It was a win-win in my book.

This Instructable will guide you:

1) in general cleaning,

2) getting some of the keys / linkages unstuck, and

3) some moderate troubleshooting.

NOTE: This is for a Royal Quiet De-Luxe so your typewriter may have a different orientation. I am sure there are similarities in the dis/re-assembly process, however.

Supplies

Typewriter

Various hand tools (screwdrivers, Allen wrenches, etc.)

A pick

Brushes like hard bristle, brass, and/or steel

Detergent + water

Rags, preferably lint-free

Spray bottle (optional but but makes it easier to target exact spaces)

Bin large enough to hold your typewriter

Mineral Spirits (NOT WD40 or grease!!!)

Compressed air (to blow off dust/debris, but also optional)

Replaceable felt

Ink ribbon, as needed

Replaceable springs, as needed

Hammer

Step 1: Video in ASMR Style

Here is a sped up video to see the cleaning in action.

Step 2: Disassembly

This Royal Quiet De Luxe came in a super stylish case (pic 1) so I will start by unlatching the clasps on the bottom. Upon opening the case, however, it unleashed a stagnant smell that can only be described as 'grandma's forgotten closet.' I won't be doing anything else with the case here. Maybe one day I will do a musk bust but today isn't that day.

Moving past that, I remove the back cover, which revealed some dust jackalopes (pics 3-5). That was accomplished by removing 4 screws and was followed up with removing the rubber feet (pic 6). I came to find out that, unless you are planning on restoring the feet, this is totally optional with this model. Felt looks worse here than after the initial cleaning. I didn't feel it necessary to replace but if you would like, keep that in mind on the bill of materials.

The main outer frame removal is aided by removal of two screws on both sides hiding behind the roller (pic 7), 4 screws (2 on each side) by the ink ribbon (pic 8). The frame can then be removed, carefully coercing it from the back to front (pic 9).

Two side panels by the roller were removed (pic 10) followed by the paper roller itself. This was accomplished by first removing the wheels by removing the associated set screws, the pin residing inside, and the gear mechanism. The inside pin was tapped out (pic 11-12) and rubbed with a scotch brite pad since it had some superficial rust. This made it easier to reinstall in a later step. Smooth like butter! Pic 13 shows a ring that rides along one side that has spring tension. Be careful when removing the roller carriage hardware for this reason. I had no idea that would be in there and if I wasn't paying attention, I could have lost it and not known why it could have been malfunctioning later.

Are you enthusiasts screaming at the screen stating the true names of these pieces/parts, yet?! I apologize and I hope I am at least close.

The case piece housing the ink ribbons and typeface was held with 2 screws on either side (pic 14) but just be sure to remove the ink ribbon holders first (pic 15-16). The top hinge also needed to be removed and pic 15 shows the piece and pic 16 shows where it came from. This piece slides on a rod and is screwed at the bottom of my model.

The front plate was the last to go by removing the two toggle switches (1 for the I don't really know what and the other to set the ink color, pic 17) and the three screws holding the plate in place (pic 18).

PRO TIP: I keep these tiny bags around and label where I got the screws from. Then I lay them, paper clip them, or hold them in place with a magnet so I am less likely to forget where they go. Also, my brain is too … scatterbrained and this helps keep me in line. You never know what distractions may come up and when you can get back to your projects.

Step 3: Air Brush

With the main guts exposed, I used my air compressor to blow away most of the dust and fluff. This could also be done with canned air or a fine bristle brush. I would recommend against the hard bristles for general dust removal only because there are a ton of springs and, depending on their condition, they could snap or become stretched beyond repair.

This by itself made a world of difference, in my opinion. Just having all the collected dust dissipated made me feel so much better about the project I have undertaken. I made this this far so it isn't so bad!

Step 4: Working the Keys

As seen in pics 1-3, there was this odd white haze on all of the keys. I used a wipe to at least uncover the letters & symbols so I could document how to put them back on later. Afterwards, I started removing the keys one by one, and, with the exception of the space bar that was unscrewed, they were removed with a pry bar and a pair of pliers to act as a fulcrum. They were really seized on there and I am sure there is a tool out there that could have done this more efficiently.

I placed each one of the keys in a spare tray and let them soak in soapy water overnight (pic 5).

With the keys removed (pic 6), I tested each lever to see which ones stuck and wrote it on my pad I created from Knife141's Instructable (pic 7).

Pic 8 shows how gross those plastic keys were, swimming in this off-yellow water, which was likely a haze due to cigarette smoke. I imagine this typewriter was utilized by a young, tall, red head secretary taking notes for their private eye employer while trying to make a decent wage. They needed to recite all of the events they had just witnessed before the whiskey takes over. Frantically typing away one evening, the rain beating relentlessly on the high-rise office window that, often, drove her level of insanity ever higher. Smoking copious cigarettes, Molly's employer was consumed with an ever present feeling of gloom and anxiety not knowing if they would ever get to the bottom of who embezzled the market funds that forced several small businesses into bankruptcy. The politicians were changing, the city was changing, and the level of corruption was peaking. "Why would the money go into junk bonds? Who was the woman in dark burgundy lipstick? And why didn't they vet out so many construction companies. . ?" These words uttered from their informant who recently met their ultimate demise were echoing in their head. Cherchez la Femme, indeed. Tunnel vision on the typewriter, Molly started to mentally picture the words as she was typing away, and concluded with a rrrrrrip of the paper from the carriage. As she handed it to the satchel foot, whos eye were wide as they were bloodshot, they had a moment of clarity. "That's it!" Now the pieces were starting to align. The private eye grabbed Molly's arm with such enthusiasm it sounded like a branch snapping off a tree.

Anyhoo, after scrubbing the cigarette smoke away, the keys are looking in way better shape.

Step 5: Soapy Rinse Job

Now for some deep cleaning. I filled a spritz bottle with soapy water (pic 1). This was to direct the spray to specific places and give better control of the stream (pic 2-3). The reason being was to help loosen the keys and levers that are stuck. The typewriter was placed in a bin to collect any run off and the dirt expelled.

I worked the soap into the typebar (pic 4-5), key levers (pics 6-8), and generally all over the thing to get up any dirt and grime that didn't come off from the air compressor. I scrubbed the pieces and parts with an old toothbrush until some semblance of shiny came through.

I also gave a scrub to the rubber catch you can see in pic 7. I just pushed up all of the typebars and held them in place with a rubber band. This kept them out of my way so I could work the toothbrush in the crevices (pic 9).

In pic 10 and 11, I am getting those slots that the key levers reside in to remove any grime that may be seizing the stuck keys, too. Whenever I finish scrubbing a key, I will depress the key 10-15 times to get the soapy water in all the nooks and crannies. This actually freed up, I am guessing, 60% of the keys noted in the previous step.

When I was all done with the soapy scrub, I blow-dry all the water to minimize rusting. That is the last thing you want.

Step 6: Deep Clean & Releasing Stuck Keys

With the skeleton dry again, I protected the rubber thingy with a scrap piece of lint-free cloth (pic 1-2). I am not 100% sure if this is necessary but I was informed it couldn't hurt. I then switched to mineral spirits (pic 3). I used mineral spirits specifically and didn't use WD40 or wax lube because I was informed that it will gum up over time, negating the hard work we are doing now!

Again, focus a spray, toothbrush scrub, and work the keys just like before (pic 4-8). Pic 9 shows the typeface or type bar area very clean and that makes me very happy, but there was some old ink that needed cleaning where the ribbon guides along the roller. Next is to get the mineral spirits soaked in to the typebar lettering to help soften & remove the old dried caked on ink from the typeface. I used a cloth at first but realized it was really hard and switched to a steel bristle brush (pic 10). This did 90% of the work and I wiped the gunk away with a fresh piece of cloth.

Lastly, I used a pushpin to remove the caked on in from the divots like in the 'e,' 'a,' and the 'g.' I removed any leftover mineral spirits but it is volatile, so this isn't really necessary. It'll dry on it's own unlike the water in the previous step! Now we are ready to get this baby back together.

Step 7: Smooth Any Dings

The side pieces had dings, I imagine from the carriage slamming.

I smoothed this out with a piece of scrap wood to not mar the surface but also doing so on my faux leather bag filled with play sand. It isn't just for metal forming as shown in this Instructable! Or this one.

Step 8: Reassembly

I didn't go nuts with the frame, I just gave it a soft scrub with soapy water and that was sufficient for me. By all means you can remove all the paint and start from scratch but mine was in really good shape and didn't feel that was necessary.

Without boring you with showing all the scrubbing of the frame, I will start putting everything back together. Simply put, this is in reverse order from disassembly. Having the video library helped me, personally, to recall which parts go first. For example, not putting the ink ribbon holders on before putting the hinged piece back on.

If any other felt, springs, etc. need replacing, now is a good time. Fortunately, my felt and springs were in good shape.

The roller was replaced as well as the keys & frame and now this machine was ready for a test run.

Step 9: Keys Not Advancing

Until I realized the paper wasn't advancing. . .

A google search told me that the most likely culprit was the arm portrayed in pic 2. They make specialty tools for bending this bar, portrayed by the upper arrow, back into its proper position but I just used a flathead screwdriver against the frame. The idea here is that the escapement isn't allowed to advance due to the bearing. This ball bearing is being pointed to in pic 2 by the lower arrow. A little goes a long way when it comes to manipulation so don't gorilla fist it.

I did this and still nothing. No paper advance...

Then I realized I was handling the skeleton too rough. In pic 3, I am pointing to the support of the space bar that got bent out of position and needed to be moved in the direction of your screen, outward (pic 4). I carefully bent this back and Boom, problem solved!

Moral of the story: Be careful when you position this thing during cleaning!

Step 10: Taking It for a Test Run

Being impatient, I didn't wait for my replacement ribbon to come in the mail so I put the old one back on and to my amazement, it still worked on the black and the red side! I had a feeling the black ink had some life left in it, especially being "protected" in the carrying case, but I had no faith in the red section. But they both worked, hurray!

Check out pic 4 for my test run, hehe.

I did eventually get a replacement ribbon in the mail and mine came in a 4 pack. They were relatively cheap, much to my amazement.

Honestly, this was a daunting task, and not to sound too cliché, but the hardest part was getting started. I was nervous about disassembling this beast but more getting it back together as designed. Making a video log helps but I hope you find this helpful and if you have a machine in need of repair or just some TLC, give it a go and give life to these well designed and intricate typewriters. It is funny to me how todays keyboards are taken for granted and how they pale in complexity compared to the mechanical linkages of yesteryears.

Catch you on the next one!