Introduction: Shop Anvil From Railroad Track

About: What's up everybody?! I am a self-taught hobbyist that loves DIY projects. I like to make food, drinks, décor, repurpose/recycle and some fandom type items. I learned a lot from books, friends, YouTube, and Te…

I got by in my shop without a proper anvil. I still don't have one but this Instructable gets me Really close.

Prior to, I have been using the cast iron HF blue anvil that deforms with every hammer blow... Not ideal, but it works. I have found that vintage coal irons are flat enough to work soft metals like copper and have used that more in the last year than old blue's lifetime in my shop.

DISCLAIMER: It has taken me many years (5+ at least) to find a piece of railroad track so if you, too, are in the market for one of these and if you are cheap like me ;) it may also take you a while to find one of these in your budget. I also lucked out that I bought this without having to travel more that half an hour AND that it was "pre-shaped." Pic 2 above shows how I received this little guy. This is where I will start, However, if you get a straight up rail, you can form the horn and stand with an angle grinder and cut off wheels. It will take some time, but it is doable.

Supplies

Railroad track

Angle grinder(s)

Cut off wheels

Wire Wheel/Cup

Grinding wheels

Flap discs, I used 40, 80, and 120 grit

Sanding pads

Water when sanding

Marking tool, I used soap stone

Respirator

Safety glasses

Drill, bits, and cutting oil

Primer / Paint (optional)

Oil for the striking surface (to minimize rust)

Patience

Time (breaks especially for excessive angle grinder fatigue)

Step 1: Video of My Process

Here is a video in fast motion to give you my process.

Step 2: Bust the Rust

First thing was to get that superficial rust off. There was some pitting that had occurred on the metal over time but slow and steady is the name of the game.

Wear your safety equipment when using the angle grinder. I can't believe how many times I got smacked in the face by debris!

I worked all surfaces until I was satisfied, pic 4.

Step 3: Drilling a Hardy Hole

I decided I wanted some semblance of a Hardy Hole so I picked up a brand new 3/8-inch drill bit and went to work.

Using oil and taking my time, I got where I wanted. Well...that isn't totally true. I imagined going All the way through the anvil but only made it 90% through. If I had to guess, the person who shaped the anvil (I am assuming with a plasma torch), work hardened the metal underneath. This action makes it hard for the drill bit to bite into the last bit of metal and more just "skates" over the hardened surface. Oh well...Close enough for me.

Step 4: Straighten It Out

I wanted some smooth dimensions, within reason (for me). Meaning, I wanted to take the rough edges off the base purely for aesthetic reasons, pics 1-4, but the horn was way off, pic 5-6.

Using the cutting and grinding wheel, I got where I needed to be.

Clearly, this track has seen some real rail work because, as pic 8 shows, the face was pressed over the side making it jut out. I re-flattened that, too, to have a 90-degree bend again for future metal work.

Step 5: Working the Horn

Anvils I have seen have the horn recessed from the rest of the working surface, so I followed suit.

I used a cutting wheel to mark my depth, and then followed that with grinding down...lots and lots of grinding.

I got where I needed to be and I would say the "hardest" part is making sure the horn's recess is flattened properly from face to tip.

Step 6: Smoothing

After a much needed break, and a sigh of relief seeing the end was in sight, I started on the sanding, or flap, discs. Starting with 40 grit and working up to 120 grit, I was able to shape and smooth out the horn, working surface, and the sides that were all previously grinded to rough shape.

I really took more time at this stage that I had imagined only thinking that these surfaces will help your end product. If you want your work to maintain a smooth surface (not the texture of a wavy anvil), taking time here to ensure your parts are smooth will [ideally] help out.

I plan on working more things like copper at present time but I know that will change in my future!

Step 7: Finish

With the anvil ready, I masked off the newly finished surface and primed the base. After letting that dry (and debating what color to finish with), I painted it black. I was feeling very Rolling Stones that day, what can I say.

I will say this, seeing / revealing the finished anvil made me Sooo happy. It took me a full 2 weekends to get from rusting mass to here and it is very satisfying. I suppose the next thing to do is to build a base to mount it..?

I plan on putting this bad boy to work very soon and I hope you will join me in future projects.

Speaking of, I hope this helps you out for your own future projects! Peace.