"Tackle Box Style" Jewelry Box

This instructable is here to help beginning woodworkers create a "tackle box" style jewelry box. This design was taken from Doug Stowe's book Basic Box Making's and modified for simplification of the project. I hope this instructable makes the duplication of this project easy. The dimensions of the box are given above.

Step 1: Purchase Materials

Above is a picture of the list of materials needed and the size of each individual part. Above is also a picture of the bill of materials so that you can know how much this project will cost you. You will need to purchase all the materials listed in the above picture. Some things can be replaced if you can't find the exact material. I personally replaced black mesquite with Walnut and Baltic Birch Plywood with Luan. You will also need to purchase the stain of your choice and a brush for application. To know how much total wood needs to be purchased, you need to buy wood at the largest width and thickness necessary for your project because it can be planed down or some cut off the side. Add up all the length's to know how many feet of wood you need to purchase in total.

Step 2: Plane Stock to Desired Thickness

There are two different ways to get the material to the thickness you desire. The image above displays the resewing method, but If you have access to a planer this is a much simpler method. When using the planer, to ensure you do not take off too much material at one time, only crank the wheel 1/4 of a turn each time before running it through the planer then measure to see how close you are to your desired thickness. The thickness desired for each piece is shown in the picture of materials on step 1.

Step 3: Draw Out Your Lines to Be Cut on the Material

Before using any type of saw it is crucial to draw out lines for cutting. Make sure to account for the size of the blade if using tools like miter saws (1/8 inch). Through drawing out all your pieces and where to cut them you also ensure that you have enough material to complete the project. To ensure that your line's are straight and the correct size use rulers and carpenter squares.

Step 4: Cut Out Your Cherry and Walnut Pieces (Larger Pieces)

Cut in between the lines you have drawn (because of saving room for the blade) to cut out the front and back, ends and top panels. Above the panels are pictured sitting up before they have been glued together. The best tool for this type of cut is a miter saw.

Step 5: Cut Out Your Small Pieces

Cut out all of your small pieces in accordance to the size noted on the material's list. The smaller pieces may best be cut on the band saw for safety purposes. If you want your dividers to be removable, a groove can be cut in the short dividers that allow them to sit flush atop the long dividers.

Step 6: Cut Out Your Bottom Panels

Cut out three panels out of your luan that will serve as your bottom panels. It is good to cut extras of these in case you cut your groves larger than needed (You will learn about cutting grooves shortly). Multiple pieces of panels can be staked on top of each other to slide into the grooves. Luan is usually only sold by the sheet so you can rip it to the appropriate width using the table saw. Next you can use a Miter saw to cut out each individual panel. The picture above shows a hand pointing to a piece of luan to show what the material looks like.

Step 7: Cut Rabbet Joints

There are several ways to put a box together. The book I got the design from suggested putting the box together with miter keys which is fairly difficult. An easier method of putting the box together is through cutting Rabbet joints. Above is an example of what a rabbet joint looks like. If you do not know how to cut a rabbet joint watch the video above. Only cut the rabbet joints on the front and back panels. The joint should be the thickness of your ends panels because the ends panel will fit inside the joints on the front and back pannels to hold the box together.

Step 8: Cut Grooves to House Bottom Panels

On both the ends and front and back pieces cut grooves. To cut the grooves set the blade 1/4 above the top of the table. This step is very significant because you do not want to cut all the way through the wood. Make sure prior to cutting that you measure how far apart you want your drawers and draw lines accordingly to cut your grooves. Move your rip fence each time to align with where you want to cut your grooves and you probably want an equal distance between each groove. The image above labeled guide for cutting sides notates where each panel is and this is where the grooves should be cut, relatively.

Step 9: Assemble Box (Put in Your Bottom Panels and Glue Box Together)

Before gluing your box together, clamp your box together and draw on the outside, slightly above your grooves, a line to show where you will cut your levels. Slide your bottom panels into the grooves of the box and assemble box. Put glue in the "lip" of the rabbet joint and glue the box together with bottom panels inside. Also glue your piece of Walnut just inside the box. Allow box to dry for at least a day, clamped together. Any reliable wood glue will work for this step.

Step 10: Cut the Lid and Levels Apart

This step is done on the table saw. You will have to cut each side of the box at each level. It is important that you take your time doing this step because with each side you cut apart the more unsteady the piece becomes and this could result in bevels in the wood. Cutting the levels apart are necessary for the box to have the folding out effect. After cutting the levels apart you may need to check the size of your dividers and support arms and cut off any excess wood.

Step 11: SAND, SAND, SAND!

Next you want to sand all your individual pieces so that they look how you want them to before staining them. This step could take a couple of hours since there are many pieces in this project. This step also helps provide a smooth surface for staining.

Step 12: Stain!

You can choose whatever stain you would like for this step. Due to the natural beauty of the wood, I chose a clear gloss that makes the wood shiny. To stain you must have first sanded then stain all individual pieces. You will then need to let the pieces dry for 3-4 hours then lightly sand them with 220 grit sand paper. After lightly sanding put another coat of stain and let dry another 3-4 hours.

Step 13: Put in Felt (Optional)

If you like the look of the wood you do not have to do this step, but it is an option. You can buy felt that already has adhesive or buy a felt glue and apply the felt. Cut the felt to fit the inside of your bottom panels and apply it to these panels. You can also use a fabric like ultrasuede.

Step 14: Make a Drilling Template

Before drilling it is pertinent to create a drilling template so that your box works properly. If your box changed in size from the original measurements, you will need to make your own measurements of where the holes should be drilled in the template. Use a ruler to draw the template, using the picture above as a guide, and make sure the lines are parallel to one another. Select a 1/16 drill bit for your pre-drilling. You can tape the top of the drill to ensure the hold only goes in as far as you need. You will need to pre drill the holes in the template before using it to show where to drill the holes on the box. You should clamp the template to the table and put a piece of sacrificial wood underneath it when pre-drilling.

Step 15: Drilling Holes and Countersinking

Use the drilling template on each of your end pieces to drill your holes into your box. You want to make sure that you place the template with drawings facing away from you on the right side of the box and facing the box on the left side. Next use a drill to make holes in your support arms. You will next need to use a drill press to countersink the holes and use a 1/8 drill bit to do this. Countersinking the holes will allow for the screw to sit flat into the wood. When countersinking only let the drill press touch the surface of the wood and test your screw until it fits flat.

Step 16: Attach Support Arms and Back Support

Screw in screws through your support arms into your box on each side. The long support arms will have three screws each and the short support arms will have two screws each. Drill three 1/16 holes in the back of your box for the back support piece. Next drill three holes into your back support piece and countersink these holes (The same way you did before with the support arms). Screw in the screws through the back support into your box. Make sure to clamp the box together before doing this step to ensure stability.

Step 17: Hinge on Lid

Use your two hinges to draw where the drill holes need to be made. Drill 1/16 holes in each hole of the places where your hinges will be. Place the hinge and screw in the 4 screws on each hinge to hold them in place. Your divider pieces can be placed inside the box once you have put it together and then can be removed as desired.

Step 18: My Final Product!

If I can do it, you can do it! I had very little woodworking experience and was able to accomplish this project so with hardworking and determination you can to!