# Corrosion Off a Car Battery.

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## Introduction: Corrosion Off a Car Battery.

Here is a easy way to clean corrosion off a car battery......

(NOTE: You may never drink pop again!)

## Step 1: What You Need....

1. A corroded car battery
2. A can of pop.

THATS ALL YOU NEED.

## Step 2: What You Need to Do....

Pour the pop on both battery posts, and wait 5 min.

Here is the video to see how:

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## 39 Discussions

For all you folks worried about getting a fatal shock off the 12-volt car battery (the following from Wikipedia):
The minimum current a human can feel depends on the current type (AC or DC) and frequency. A person can feel at least 1 mA (rms) of AC at 60 Hz, while at least 5 mA for DC. The current may, if it is high enough, cause tissue damage or fibrillation which leads to cardiac arrest. 60 mA of AC (rms, 60 Hz) or 300–500 mA of DC can cause fibrillation.

Additionally, from the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health:
Under dry conditions, the resistance offered by the human body may be as high as 100,000 Ohms. Wet or broken skin may drop the body's resistance to 1,000 Ohms.

Ohm's law (basic electricity) tells us: current = voltage / resistance. Using the above numbers, this makes current = 12 / 1000 (wet or broken skin). This results in a current of 12 mA (0.012 Amps). You'll feel it, but it is a LONG way from killing you. With normal, dry skin, current = 12 / 100,000; a current of 0.12 mA (120 µA, or 0.00012 Amps).

Seems pretty safe to me, just don't suck on the battery cables.

Baking soda and water to the consistency of a paste smeared on the terminals gets the corrosion off and in a pinch Vasaline smeared on the post and terminals keeps them clean, also most auto parts stores sell the felt pads which works fine..

Uhhhhhh ... as a fellow bug owner (mine is a 1971 standard bug, not super, and also yellow like yours) ....

1. I probably would have taken the battery out of the car first, no matter what method I used.
2. Soda isn't the best cleaning agent. The carbonation and acid will remove surface corrosion, but you're also inviting future corrosion (and a sticky mess). A toothbrush dipped in a super concentrated solution of hot water & baking soda is a good option, or if it's REALLY bad, start with a wire brush - GENTLY.
3. I would be hesitant to spread any type of petroleum products on the terminals that was not meant for an electrical situation. Dielectric grease (the same stuff you would use to lube the horn contact ring that rotates against the terminals in the steering column in your bug) would seem safer ... it's a grease, but it's designed to be conductive, and designed to be used in electrical situations.

Personally, I wouldn't bother spreading ANYTHING on my terminals ... it took THAT long to build up, so I would just add checking the battery terminals to your regular six month or twelve month checklist. You know as well as anyone else with a classic bug that these cars are super reliable, as long as you keep up with the HUNDRED BILLION tiny irritant maintenance checks they require.

Other than all that, I heart your bug. I never was huge on the Super Beetles (hence why mine is a 1300 / standard), but 1973 was the only model year I would have considered owning. Plus, yours is the right color :-)

._. uh boiled tap water? i talked with my auto shop teacher he said that's a dumb idea since that would kill the battery

thanks people. the comments are easily worth as much as the article. I used pop on my VW a couple of months ago, and now i get a invidious black corrosion in the pos post. its gummy and has to be scraped-off after removing the cable. i bet its the sugar. i hot-soapy-watered the cable and battery. now things are great. a wire-brush corrodes terribly after using it on a battery. the better choice may be a 1" X 4" strip of sand-paper around a pencil, which can be discarded after one use. Does any-body know whats in the red felt donut sold by auto-stores to prevent corrosion on battery posts?

I had a 76 superbeatle in high school & loved to take people home who didn't know about my bug.when we hit a bump they went up & shocked on the way down.it was soooo funny !!! long live the bug!!!

or you could just rub some petroleum jelly across both terminals, and you won't have corrosion in the first place.

Ummm...should I be worried about the possibility of electrocution/electric shock? It occurs to me that pouring a (conducting fluid)* onto the positive terminal of a car battery is not the most sensible thing to do...

Even if there is minimal risk of the Dr. Pepper conducting electricity up a stream, would it not be a good idea to warn against the dangers of touching the can against the engine bay when pouring on the terminals? Or do I misunderstand electricity? : /

*I assume that Dr. Pepper/Cola etc. still conducts electricity, no matter how much more unhealthy than water it is.

12 volts wont go through water (or skin, for that matter) hardly at all. That's why it is safe to jump start a car in the rain.

I'm no electrician, but isn't it the amperage that counts rather than the volts when you're talking about getting a shock? Also, what's this business about lifting a battery out by it's terminals? That's just, weird.... In any event, if you've ever accidentally crossed the + and - terminals on a car battery with say, a tire iron, you'll be able to see there's plenty of juice in there by your melted battery terminals. I wouldn't use this instructable if I were you, Joe Reader.

You need voltage to get amperage, and the reason you get lots of juice from a tire iron is because the metal has an extremely low resistance, your body has a very very high resistance.

Bullsh*t . an electric shock from an auto battery will ruin your damn day.

Dude, You are SUPPOSED to lift car batteries by their terminals out of most cars. As long as you don't lick it, you will be just fine. Wall power won't even hurt you much, but it will scare the crap out of you. Or maybe you were talking about a 200ish volt hybrid car battery...

I have never seen instructions anywhere advising that a lead acid battery be lifted by its terminals! If you want to shorten the life of the battery considerably, go for it. A car battery should always be lifted by the sides of the battery. The voltage of a power source is not what injures. When you get a static shock you're dealing with 20,000+ volts! Why doesn't it hurt (much)? Because it's very low current. A 12v lead acid battery can supply enough current to stop your heart , given a good enough connection (wet hands.)

I'm doubtful that 12V will drive enough current. Maybe if you poked electrodes into your flesh? Theoretically, a car battery can supply enough current to thouroughly cook you to the point of 'crispy', but the human body has a bit too much resistance (through fatty-skin anyway)? L

It isn't advised, but I know of no other way to get on out of a japanese car (honda, nissan, etc) and some newer fords and chevys. All it is doing is putting a very small amount ot load on it (microamps, not even milliamps), a cars clock would have more draw. About the wet hands, that would make no difference, because you skin is still in the way between the battery and the bloodstream. For that matter, water isn't so good of a conductor anyway. Heres a thought, have you ever carried a battery by the terminals? I have, I'm still alive. I didn't feel anything actually. I don't know what kind of experience you speak from. Lastly, voltage gets through to you, amperage hurts you. You need a good bit of both to get injured.