Two months ago I had a hip surgery and could not really leave the house to enjoy the nice weather, so I came up with the idea to explore the outside world via a GoPro-equipped rover. When it was finished I already managed to climb the three steps outside with crutches though, but it was a nice task to pass the time in bed anyway.
Do you still have your beloved 90's RC toy car Tyco RC Rebound 4x4? If so, you can turn it into a Mars-rover, too! Even without screws in your hip-bone.
You can also skip printing the camera case and just use this design as a replacement for your broken car body. If you then decide that you want the camera-feature, you can add it anytime. It just slides on and off the body.
- Tyco RC Rebound 4x4
- 16mm long M2-hex-bolts (4x)
- M2 nuts (4x)
- transparent acrylic sheet (2 x 42 x 91mm)
- 3D-printer filament. Keep in mind that the parts will be exposed to sunlight. I used white PLA and that works fine so far. If you choose colors that heat up in the sun, you might want to consider to print in different materials
- Phillips Screwdriver
- M2 Allen wrench
- Utility knife
- Steel ruler
- GoPro-style Action Camera
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Step 1: Check Out the Video!
This is what you get!
Step 2: Remove the Old Car Body
Loosen the three phillips screws that hold the car body together and remove the two shells. Make sure not to lose the battery hatch because we will keep using it in the new body
Step 3: Print the New Car Body
Print the four body parts (part 01-of-05 through part 04-of-05) that you can download from thingiverse:
If you wonder why it is so edgy and why it is made from four parts, that's because you need almost no support material to print this shape!
Step 4: Put Together the Bottom Shell
Slide the parts into each other so that they inter-lock
Step 5: Put Together the Top Shell
Now put also the other shell together
Step 6: Attach the Battery Hatch
Remove the battery hatch from the old car body and clip it into the chassis
Step 7: Attach the New Shells
Put the new shells in place. Make sure that the battery hatch slides into the right place and opens properly
Step 8: Insert Three Hex Bolts
Insert three of the four hex bolts into the body. Put them in with the battery-trunk facing up
Step 9: Tighten the Nuts
It's a bit tricky to insert the nuts all the way down into the hexagonal bores, but here's the trick:
Screw a nut a tiny bit on the remaining fourth hexbolt and insert the nut with it. Then carefully remove the hexbolt, while screwing the other hexbolt into the nut from the other side.
Repeat for all three bolts and nuts
Step 10: Print the Camera Case
Now print the camera case (part 05-of-05). It is available via the same link as the other parts
Step 11: Cut Out Acrylic
Use a utility knife to cut out a rectangle (42 x 91 mm) from 2 mm thick transparent acrylic. To do so scrape the boundaries of the rectangle into the material from both sides several times and then just crack it off. Ideally you should hold the acrylic in a vice or broad clamp for this. If you do not have one, you want to scrape the shape deep into the material before attempting to remove the rectangle. Otherwise it might get destroyed
Step 12: Glue the Acrylic In
Step 13: Stuff the Empty Space Around the Camera
I intentionally designed the case a bit roomy. Like that you can add headlights or something like that later
Step 14: Attach the Camera Case
Slide the case onto the body. Mind that the screw-hole in the body and in the camera-case need to line up when put together. This gives you an indication, which way around to slide it in
Step 15: Secure the Camera Case
Secure the camera case with the last Hex-bolt and nut
Step 16: Congratulations!
Get ready to rumble, the Rebound's back in town!
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