Intro: Headboard Silencer
Have you ever had an issue with headboard movement? Maybe it gets jostled and makes its way away from and then back into the wall? This is a somewhat bothersome problem because there is the chance of damage to the wall as well as the headboard. And there can be noise associated with said movement as well.
Our first attempt to solve the problem was using some egg create foam between the headboard and the wall, but a good jostle would allow it to hit the floor and resume making noise mid jostling-not an effective solution. It also wasn't the most attractive or subtle solution.
The long term fix? Read on...
Step 1: Supplies and Tools
As far as supplies go, I used a square of exercise/floor protector mat. There is certainly no need to go fancy here-mine came from Harbor Freight and seems to be the best place to get it on the cheap. I had a couple of scrap pieces but with a little prior planning that I didn't have you can probably get away with one square. Worst case, two will do it.
Tools-unfortunately this list is incredibly short, as I usually am all about my tools. But, this is simple and straightforward.
-Utility knife/craft knife/etc
-Hot glue gun
-Ruler if you really feel inspired to draw straight lines
One of these will work for a queen size bed and should work for a king as well. If you have a California king, you may need to make two.
Step 2: Cut Away
You'll want to layout your square as shown before cutting out the pieces. If you really feel like getting super industrious you can even measure between your headboard and wall to see how thick this will need to be, which, if you are limited on foam you may actually want to do to insure you end up with enough. Measure to the furthest point between the wall and headboard-the point of this design anyway is to be able to be concealed and not conspicuous. If you want to be conspicuous, rock on with the egg crate foam!
Based on the thickness you need you may have to adjust how many of the small block pieces you will need. You will need two stacks that stack up to the thickness required-there will be one base and then stack as many on top of that as you need, which will depend on the thickness of your foam.
When you have your layout with enough pieces, cut away!
Step 3: Assembly
You should have a U, two large rectangles and several smaller rectangles. Cut the tabs off the two legs of the U so that when the U is upside down it has flat bottoms. They don't have to be perfectly level, but close is good.
Your pieces will be assembled as shown.
-The two large rectangles should be hot glued to the flats you cut on the bottom of the upside down U. This is to position your pad high enough to work right.
-Glue your smaller rectangles onto the top, outer corners of the upside down U, stacked up to achieve the thickness you need.
You may notice that there are reinforcements on the joint where the legs meet the U-these are probably not at all necessary and I put them on as a precautionary measure. They really shouldn't be necessary and if you are running close on foam, skip them for sure. There isn't much vertical loading on this at all.
Step 4: Place and Test! Shhh...
You may have to move the bed to put this in place or if you can flex the headboard enough without damaging it (be careful!) you want to stand your silencer up behind your headboard. Ideally it should fit right between the wall and headboard and not allow any movement, and still have a gap between the top of the headboard and the wall. (The U should be upside down, with the two bottoms of the large rectangles on the floor).
The floor mat foam will allow for some compression to cushion for movement and allow the headboard some flex, but will be firm enough to silence the headboard from its normal wiggles. If the headboard still manages to thump the wall, you need to add another piece of the small rectangular foam to the stack. Jostle as necessary to test. Rinse lather repeat as necessary to get your foam thickness right. When you get it right...