How to Make a Phone Wire Bracelet

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About: Come spend some time in the shop. I'm a hobbyist woodworker and professional computer geek in Northern California. I guess my projects will vary widely, and I have no clue what I plan to make next...

These wires are from a 25 pair telephone cable that was discarded at the office. It just didn't seem right to toss them!

I after pouring 15 ounces of epoxy I drilled a hole (the epoxy harden in about 5 hours ) for the inside diameter a 2 5/8"

After a quick turning to a smooth cylinder, I started sanding it... and sanding it... I wet sanded up to 400grit then switched to my high grit polishing pads. 1200 grit to 12000 grit! It's a long process! I still had to sand the inside... but I did that by hand. It took an hour or so.

I love the look with the wires and exposed cooper! Thanks for looking!

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    92 Discussions

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    bruhnstv

    4 years ago on Introduction

    I have a large quantity of 100-pair phone cable like this that I just haven't wanted to take to a scrap dealer. For the cost of a padded envelope and postage, I'd be happy to send out, say, one foot lengths of it...more than enough to make one of these bracelets (or other things you might think of).

    2 replies
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    kludge77bruhnstv

    Reply 4 years ago on Introduction

    Wow thanks for the offer! I'm afraid as a network engineer, I've got all the cable I could need. But maybe you'll extend to offer to another eager maker on here?!

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    bruhnstvkludge77

    Reply 4 years ago on Introduction

    Sure...the offer is open to anyone reading the article and wanting to do it or something like it...at least while my supply holds out.

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    FloridaJo

    3 years ago

    Nice job. I learn so much from Instructables.

    It has become my favorite website now.

    Best point learned from this was about the 'micromesh'.

    Did not know about that.

    Thanks

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    Dani78

    3 years ago on Introduction

    It 's really nice.

    How did you come up with this idea?

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    kludge77audreyobscura

    Reply 4 years ago on Introduction

    I used West System epoxy. It's a bit pricey and I think resin from the hobby store will be my next purchase!

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    T_om

    4 years ago on Introduction

    Give you a hint for next time. Epoxy won't effectivey "polish", but the cheaper polyester resin, for some reason, will. You can get a better finish surface on polyester resin than epoxy.

    5 replies
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    Sadi789T_om

    Reply 4 years ago on Introduction

    I like the translucent look that the epoxy gives it though. Not super glossy, but (for lack of a more specific term) high quality. The copper stands out more, too.

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    kludge77Sadi789

    Reply 4 years ago on Introduction

    Thanks. I sorry like the opaque look too. I think I might try a tinted epoxy next time and scuff it up a bit...

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    thenetdog

    4 years ago on Introduction

    Something else you can try instead of sanding is adding more epoxy. I had a block of cured epoxy where I could not sand it enough to get rid of the hazy finish, even with the high grits. But I got it clear by dripping a light coat of fresh epoxy on the outside and letting it air dry. It filled in all the scratches and ended up crystal clear with no sanding at all. Just an idea for next time - thanks for posting.

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    n4nln

    4 years ago on Introduction

    The classic release agent for epoxy is carnuba hard paste wax like used for furniture or your car. The standard ritual is 3 good coats of paste wax (buffed-out) on the mold interior or liner. If the surface of the mold is baby's-butt smooth and you wax it very well, the amount of surface finishing you have to do should be a *lot* less.

    There are commercial mold-release agents which the suppliers claim do better than paste wax. You might find one at West Marine in the epoxy section. But particularly for smaller parts, the pros I know still swear by good ol' carnuba paste wax.

    Note that Polypropylene was invented to reject most adhesives; that's why cyanoacrylates come in polypropylene containers. SO if you use polypropylene for a mold (cut down bottles, bowls, etc) and paste wax it as the ritual dictates, then you should get good release and a very good initial surface finish.

    The cautions about avoiding skin contact with epoxy are very important. Some people go their entire lives and never become sensitized to amines, but there are also people who have become extremely allergic after one or two exposures. You don't know whether you are the latter until it's too late. And do the processing in open air for the same reason (even with a respirator).

    I will suggest using Maas Epoxy over West System because Maas doesn't produce "amine blush" - the waxy finish you sometimes get on epoxy. This is very important if secondary bonds are involved in what you are making.

    West Marine carries Maas Epoxy, too.