Intro: How to Perform an Engine Oil Flush Using Amsoil
Video tutorial on how to flush the engine oil in your vehicle. This particular car I am working with here today is a 2007 Volvo C30 equipped with a T5. The engine flush product I am using here is from Amsoil and can also be used on transmissions too. Typically a flush should be used when you are switching from conventional to synthetic, may have sludge or other forms of deposits in the engine, noisy lifters, moisture in the oil, or the engine has been sitting for an extended period of time. In this case, the previous owner wasn’t sure if synthetic oil was used or not, so just to be safe I am running this engine flush. A flush should be done just before an oil change. I have already brought the engine up to full operating temperature. When it is at full operating temperature, the oil will flow better and with the additive, this allows it to move around the engine easier, cleaning away any deposits.
- ratchet and socket set
- engine flush additive
- oil pan
- new oil
- clean rag
- oil filter
As mentioned earlier, I am using a product from Amsoil in order to preform an engine flush. There are many products available on the market and before the use of each product, it's also important to read it's instructions which is specific to each product.
I have already brought the engine up to full operating temperature. When it is at full operating temperature, the oil will flow better and with the additive, this allows it to move around the engine easier, cleaning away any deposits. In order to change the oil, you can either elevate with a jack or use drive on ramps which I am doing. Turn the engine off and then add the additive. The reason I have already drove the vehicle on ramps is so that I do not apply any engine load which is a requirement by the flush additive.
Allow the vehicle to run for about 10min, up to 15 depending on the severity of engine sludge. While your engine oil does have some detergent, this additive is a stronger detergent which maximizes cleaning action inside the engine. Once you’ve reach the time limit, turn off the engine and now change the engine oil as you would normally.
This should be done when the engine is still hot so the oil flows easily. Oil change procedures will vary between vehicles. For this particular car the belly pan does need to be removed in order to access the drain plug.
Now remove the drain plug, with the oil pan directly between it. Allow the engine oil to drain. This vehicle uses a cartridge oil filter, therefore it can be replaced while the oil is still draining.
Remove that old oil filter and then replace with a new filter. This cartridge style filter does require a new o-ring on the housing cap as well. Install that and then reinstall the new filter. Tighten the cap down to factory specifications.
Go back under the car and install the drain plug.
Now replenish the engine with the correct weight that meets your vehicle’s specifications. For this as mentioned earlier, I am adding synthetic oil.
Check the oil as needed.
Then start the engine and check for any leaks.
Reinstall the belly pan.
And you’re done. This car only has about 125,000km, so there should have been any sticking components within the engine. However I was slightly worried about deposits which could have been left behind from conventional oil.
Unfortunately it will be hard to determine if there was deposits in the oil as it will have dissolved and mixed in with the oil. This oil already required a replacement, so it’s naturally discoloured over it’s lifespan. The old oil can be disposed of as it should be, some repair shops and auto parts suppliers can do that for you.
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