Introduction: Modular Sensory Board

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What is a Modular Sensory Board?

Sensory boards are often used for stimulating the senses of people and helping people that are unable to use their senses. It is a type of sensory integration (Evans).
Sensory inputs can include sounds, smells, tastes, and other textures (Evans). At Seven-Hills, these sensory boards are used as tools for people to fidget with while they wait during the day.

A modular sensory board allows for more interchangeability and allows people to personalize their sensory boards.

What We Did:

At Seven Hills, the staff use a sensory board to keep their clients focused throughout the day. However, this sensory board is not very durable and is made of a single layer of corrugated cardboard.

This Intstructable will show you how to make a sensory board.

The sensory board will be 18" x 12".

Sensory Board by atan2019 on Sketchfab

Requirements Document: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1hZa7EzS-Xv...

Competitor Analysis: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1M-tBN5UnWLC2uP...

Our Final Decision Matrix: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1sMfbiLmdY...

Attachments

Step 1: Gathering Materials and Tools

Materials:

Tools

  • Table saw with adjustable blade height and fence
  • Jigsaw with at least 2.5" long blade
  • Electric Sander
  • 100-grit sandpaper
  • 300-grit sandpaper
  • 1/4" diameter countersinking bit
  • Tape measure
  • Pencil
  • Drill
  • Match or lighter
  • Scissors
  • Miter Saw or handsaw, depending if its blade can cut aluminum
  • Hammer
  • 5" string
  • Painter's tape and newspaper

Step 2: Sensory Board Base

  1. Cut the sheet of plywood using the table saw into two 12"x18" boards.
  2. Sketch out a curve with a 1.5" radius of curvature on each of the four corners of both boards using string tied to a pencil. Hold the string with your finger 1.5" away from the pencil and sketch the arc.
  3. Using a jigsaw, cut on the lines of both boards.
  4. Using a table saw and jigsaw, Cut a 10"x16" rectangle starting on the narrow side of only one of the boards.There should be a two-inch border on all sides of this board except for one narrow side having no border, similar to the shape of a "U" (see picture) This will become the top layer of the final product. Try to keep the wood that was cut out as intact as possible for later use, especially the 10" side that is curved.
  5. Sand the inside edges of the board using 300-grit sandpaper and electric sander until the edges are straight, and the corners are perpendicular.
  6. Replace the 300-grit sandpaper with 400-grit and sand lightly for a smoother finish.
  7. Set the blade height of the table saw to 1/2".
  8. On the other board, measure and draw four-18" lines that run across the board and are perpendicular to the narrow 12" side. Starting from one side of the board, the lines should be at 3 5/8", 5 1/2", 7 3/8, and 9 1/4". Add two parallel lines 3/8" away on the left and right on each initial line. There should be 4 - 3/4"x18" rectangles on the board that can be shaded in based on the lines drawn.
  9. Using a table saw, run this board across the blade until each of the 4 - 3/4"x18"x1/2" trenches are carved out.
  10. Cut the McMaster Carr T-Tracks into 4 -16" long rails using a Mitersaw if it has a blade designed for cutting aluminum. If not, cut using a handsaw.
  11. Test if the rails fit snuggly into the trenches. If not, sand the inside walls and floor of the trench using 300-grit sandpaper.
  12. Apply 16" of epoxy on the bottom of each trench and immediately press the four tracks into place. All four tracks should all have one of their ends flush with the same side of the board. Therefore, on the other side of the board, there should be a two-inch unfilled gap. Allow the epoxy to set based on the product's instructions.
  13. Using the 10"x16" that was cut out in step 4, cut four 1/2"x3/4"x2" rectangular prisms to fit into the four gaps in the trenches. Adhere them to the wooden base using wood glue. Wait until the glue dries.
  14. Align the board cut in step 4 on top of the board with tracks placed in it. Ensure the open end of the top layer is above the side where the tracks are flush with the narrow side. Using wood glue, adhere the two layers together and wait until the wood dries.
  15. Underneath the newly dried board, countersink 8 holes along where there is a two-inch border on the top board. There should be 3 holes on either of the longer 18" sides and 2 holes along the 12" where the wooden inserts filled the trench.
  16. Using a drill or screwdriver, screw in 8 general purpose screws into the 8 holes.
  17. Countersink two holes that are 1/2" deep that also are centered between each set of rails, (see CAD file).
  18. Using the 10"x16" rectangle using in steps 4 and 14, cut a 2"x10" rectangle from the side that still has the curved edges that line up with the top layer. Countersink two holes 1/2" deep that line up with the two whole countersunk in the bottom layer. Apply wood glue in the two countersunk holes in the 2"x10" piece and insert the dowels. Wait until the wood glue dries.
  19. Attach the metal handle to the top of the 2"x10" piece based on the product's method of attachment. Make sure the handle is centered for easier use.
  20. Apply one "screw and snap" fastener on either side of the metal handle, and another fastener 5.75" away on long sides of the bottom layer of the board.
  21. Cut the heavy fabric into 2-6" pieces and use a match to cauterize the ends.
  22. Using the mounting template (comes with the fasteners), hammer the button to both ends of each piece of fabric.
  23. Cut the neoprene sheet into 3 - 10"x2" strips and apply them evenly spaced on the underside of the board using the 3M adhesive strips.
  24. Using 400-grit sandpaper, sand down the entire board lightly to reduce splintering, make the surface smoother, and get rid of any pencil marks from measuring/sketching.
  25. Using painter's and newspaper, cover the entire cavity on the top of the board with newspaper and seal the walls of the cavity with painter's tape. Be sure to also cover the holes of the rails that are flush with one side of the board. Also, use painter's tape to cover the 3 strips of neoprene.
  26. Apply polyurethane to all of the exposed areas of the board not covered with painter's tape and newspaper.
  27. Apply polyurethane to the top and outward facing side of the 2"x10" piece.
  28. Allow the polyurethane to cure for two whole days.

Attachments

Step 3: Sensory Output

Sensory Output by atan2019 on Sketchfab

  1. Using either the remains of the 10"x16" piece that was cut when making the base of the sensory board, cut out eight - 4.5"x3.5" rectangles.
  2. Apply medium-layer of polyurethane to the top of each attachment.
  3. Allow the polyurethane to cure for at least two days.
  4. Apply the sensory output of your choice with either epoxy or any adhesive specific to the output.
  5. Draw lines perpendicular to the long side of the attachment 1 1/8" and 2 7/8" away from one side.
  6. Using 1/2" finishing screws, screw in one screw and each line made near the center of attachment. Make sure the screws are only 1/4" into the attachment.

Attachments

Step 4: Sensory Output Housing

  1. Cut the plywood into sections of:
    1. Sensory Trays: 17.5" x 10.5" x 1" (4)
    2. Housing covers: 12"x18" (2) from the 2 ply plywood
    3. Housing walls: 12"x18" (2) from the 7 ply plywood
    4. Housing back: 12"x12" from the 2 ply plywood
  2. Using the square dowel, cut 6 - 16" long square dowels.
  3. Screw 3 of the square dowels to each of the housing walls, all spaced out 3" from each other when measuring from the bottom of each rail. The bottom of each dowel should be positioned at 3",6". and 9" when measuring from what would be the floor of the housing.
  4. Screw in the housing walls to the covers such that the housing walls and covers are parallel respectively.
  5. Screw the housing back over the end where the rails are flush.
  6. On the side that is open and has a 2" gap until the rails start, screw a 1" long square dowel that is flush with the open face in front of each rail.
  7. From the scraps of the square dowels and remaining 2-ply plywood, cut 8 - 17.5"x2" strips
  8. Align and glue two strips to each tray evenly at the tray's 3rds.
  9. From any remaining scrap wood, cut four thin 1/8"x1/8"x10" strips of wood and glue them to the bottom of each tray 1.25" away from one of its narrow sides. This will act as a pseudo-locking mechanism for the trays to stay in the housing.
  10. Cut 4 - 10" strips of the square dowel and adhere one to the top of each tray on the opposite side of the locking strip to prevent the attachments from slipping off the back of the tray what the tray is pulled out of the housing.
  11. To paint, use spray paint to color the wood.

Step 5: Improvements and Extension Projects

Some improvements to our sensory board include:

  • Making the sensory outputs more flush with the base board (less gaps between the sensory outputs).
  • Creating a strap fir the user to prevent the board from accidentally falling.
  • Making the sensory board more lightweight and cost effective.

Extension Projects include:

  • Making more unique and fancy sensory outputs.
    • Having sensory outputs with a fidget cube, for example.
  • Making different sensory boards with different materials as a base.
    • ABS and other Plastics.

Step 6: Resources and References

Aviditi SP2448 single-wall corrugated sheet, 48" length x 24" width, kraft (bundle of 5): Industrial & scientific., Retrieved from Amazon Inc., https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ZJMS9W/ref=sspa_dk_... _rd_i=B000ZJMS9W&pd_rd_wg=PCsbn&pd_rd_r=2HNMCSVY2EJWDDAX25E9&pd_rd_w=JMneE#feature-bullets-btf, ASIN: B000ZJMS9W

Birkelo, S. (2016, ). Janesville eagle scout creates sensory board for those with autism. TCA Regional News Retrieved from http://ezproxy.wpi.edu/login?url=https://search.p... Candice Evans.Sensory boards for special needs. Retrieved from http://ezproxy.wpi.edu/login?url=https://search.p...

McMaster-Carr.McMaster-carr. Retrieved from http://ezproxy.wpi.edu/login?url=https://search.p...