Wouldn't it be nice if your walking stick served double duty as a chair? This walking stick functions just as well as a stationary resting device as well as it does as a mobility enabler.
Trying to find a place to rest on the trail can be a challenge; especially when the woods are wet.
Carrying a camp chair in your pack seems like an unnecessary luxury, however, if the hiking stick you were planning on carrying anyway could serve as a lounge chair, you just might want to indulge.
This Instructable describes the steps for making a convertible walking stick with an accessory seat. At a height of 6 feet when fully assembled, the walking stick is really more of a Hiking Staff however, the 3 piece design makes it easy to transport and allows it to convert into a seat.
But there's more...
This is the first in a series of Instructables demonstrating the versatility of this Hiking Staff. Subscribe if you don't want to miss the next two sequel Instructables:
- Decorative and functional copper shod finial staff ends with storage
- Staff-top provision for an illuminating torch
Step 1: Staff Size
(3) 1” diameter hard wood dowels (each 2 feet in length). I used oak for this project.
A grip near the top of a taller staff allows it to extend well downhill while the body remains upright during a descent.
The only negative I have found with a Hiking Staff is the inevitable accusation of sheep herding or the resemblance to Moses (which happens despite the lack of beard credentials) .
Step 2: Add the Copper Connectors
(2) 3/4" diameter sweat fitting to 1/2" threaded male copper plumbing fitting
(2) 3/4" diameter sweat fitting to 1/2" threaded female copper plumbing fitting
The outer diameter of the 3/4" sweat fitting matches the 1" diameter of the wood dowel. This creates a nice flush transition at the wood to copper interface.
(Be sure to use 3/4" sweat to 1/2" threaded reducer fitting. The diameter of 3/4" sweat to 3/4" threaded fitting will be too large to fit through the ring used to assemble the seat.)
(1) Package of two part epoxy adhesive
- Brandname “JB Weld Epoxy” adhesive holds well on metal.
- Make sure to use the original JB Weld that requires 24 hours to cure.
- Do not use the quick cure (15 minute or less epoxies - including JB Weld Quick) as these
do not hold as well to metal
1: Use sand paper (or chisel, pocket knife, lath or beaver teeth) to reduce the diameter on one end of the Upper Section and Lower Section dowels to match the inside contour of the female copper fittings. The dowel ends should insert to the bottom of the threads on the female fittings.
Both ends of the Middle Section dowel should be reduced to fit the male copper fitting. This dowel should insert all the way to the end of the male cooper fittings. (The male fitting requires the dowel to have two step diameter reduction in order for the dowel to fit flush to the end of the fitting.)
Reference the last photo in this series.
2: Test fit the dowel in the copper fittings several times as you are reducing the dowel diameter. The dowel needs to press tightly into the fitting. Use a mallet to force the fittings on (be careful to not damage the threads.)
Note: The fitting will ultimately have to be removed to apply the adhesive. This is where the wrench flats on the fitting come in handy. Use them to twist off the fitting.
3: Remove the fittings and “roughen-up” the inside of the fitting with something sharp (like the bent point of a nail or a file.) The deeper the gouges / scores on the inside of the fitting the better the adhesive has something to grip onto.
4: Similarly,“roughen-up” the end of the wood dowel by making grooves to hold the adhesive.
5: Mix the adhesive per the package instructions. Protect the threads on the fitting with tape. Apply adhesive to the inside of the fittings, and the ends of the dowels. - Make sure adhesive does not get on the threads.
6: Pound the fittings on the dowel ends and clean-up any adhesive that oozes out. Again, make sure the threads are free of adhesive.
Step 3: Drill Seat Pin Holes
Drill holes in the end of the dowels. This is required to accept the pins on the canvas seat.
1. Drill a 3/16" hole 2" deep into the center of the dowels at the fittings on the Upper Section and Lower Section .
2. Drill a hole in only one end of the Middle Section.
Step 4: Add Pivot Notches
(1) 2" inner diameter welded chrome ring. (Typically found in the hardware store near the chains.)
This is the Pivot Ring (reference the last photo in this series) it holds the center of the dowel sections allowing them to flare out.
Two notches are required In the center of each dowel section to accept the Pivot Ring.
1. Make the the first notch perpendicular, straight across the dowel. (I used a file to make the notch)
2. File the second notch at a 30 degree angle.
The notches should be about 1/4" wide and 3/8" deep.
the perpendicular notch is for the initial positioning of the dowels when they are loaded into the Pivot Ring. The angled notch accommodates the splayed position of the legs when forming a tripod.
Step 5: Sew the Canvas Seat
(2) Pieces heavy canvas (approximately 14"x14")
Heavy duty Polyester thread
1: Cut two pieces of canvas into triangles (14" per side)
2: Sew the two pieces together along the three sides. Stop the sew lines about 2 inches short on each end
3: Turn the sewn together pieces of fabric inside-out through one of the openings at a corner of the triangle .
4: Fold over each edge of the triangle to a width of about 3/4 inch and sew. This will form a "sleeve" along each side of the triangle.
Step 6: Thread the Cable
1/8" Stainless Steel Cable (Approximately 24" in length)
(1) 1/8" Aluminum double Ferrule (reference last photo in this series)
(3) 2" long Stainless Steel Cotter Pins
1: Thread the cable through the "sleeves" in the seat fabric. The cable holds the top of the dowel sections in position preventing them from over splaying.
2: insert the ends of the cable into the ferrule and crimp. A 5lb sledge hammer worked well to compress the ferrule.
3: Open the three cotter pins and load over the cable at the tree corners of the triangle. These are the Seat Pins used to attach the seat fabric to the dowel sections.
(The open legs of the pin act like a spring to hold them in the dowel holes.)
Step 7: Assemble the Seat
Load the Upper Section, Lower Section and Middle Section through the Pivot Ring.
Make sure the ring is in the notch of each section as the next section is loaded.
Step 8: Form the Tripod
Rotate each dowel section in the same direction so that the Pivot ring aligns with the 30 degree notch in each dowel section.
The splayed dowels will form tripod legs.
Step 9: Insert the Seat Pins
Insert each of the three Seat Pins into the holes in the dowel sections
Step 10: Seat Complete
This is the seat fully assembled, and ready to go...actually ready to stay.
I created a logo for our Boy Scout Troop using a graphics program and printed it out on iron-on transfer paper. (this paper is readily available at any office supply store.) It bonded well to the cotton canvas fabric. (Remember that any iron-on transfer needs to be printed in reverse.)
Step 11: Seat in Action
The seat is sturdy enough to hold a decent sized adult. It is as comfortable as any tripod camp stool can be, but it serves its purpose well for a trail side break.
Now if only it reclined and had a foot rest....
Below you can see the Hiking Staff Seat in conjunction with the light weight Backpacking Table described in the following Instructable: https://www.instructables.com/id/Camp-Table-for-Backpacking/