Repair a Hdmi Cable




Alright, here is the situation: you just installed a 5 meter Hdmi cable in the walls of your office. (or home) Then you come to the discovery that someone stepped on the Hdmi connector. Connector kaput....  What can you do?

- Well there is the option of breaking open the wall and replace the Hdmi cable. NOT... 
- Or pulling a new cable through the walls with the old one but this situation involves a corner,
  which makes that option impossible as well.

- Then there is the "getting a new connector and solder it on cable" option, unfortunately I could not find someone who did this before.

So here is my motivation to share my experience with you since this is my second time that I have done this....
Here goes....

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Step 1: Tools You Need

This is what you need:
(give or take)

- Solder Iron
- Solder
- Desolder wire
- Second Hdmi cable (optional)
- Hdmi to hdmi connector (optional)
- Hdmi connector
- Tyraps
- Sissors
- Extra power cables
- Multi meter
- Aluminium  (optional)
- Crocodile clamp assist (thing)

2/3 hours...
Some soldering experience...

Step 2: Wiring It All...

First we need to know which connection is going where, since both Hdmi internal connections are the same (no twisted wires or anything like ethernet patch cables) the pinout is very straight forward.
1 is going to 1
2 to 2
3 to 3

But ones the cable is cut you cannot measure which wire comes from which pin, so I used a multimeter to check which wire belongs to which pin. I used a little wire to make a connection with the end that was still working, the front of the Hdmi connector has little holes where you can push the test-wire into. (see photo) Thats the way to make contact with that end. (I used some tape to hold it in place, not professional but it works.

Next photo is the setup, I set my multimeter for 20K since I dont a have beeper mode on it.
It will only show that there is practically no resistance when you hit the right wire. (0,00)

You can use a wire diagram but I found out that many dont seem to be the same or are not the same as my Hdmi cable, so I recommend using this procedure because it should always be right!

Step 3: Start

Next: Peel of 2 cm from the cable and get some room between the wires....
As you can see we have a few wires (for display detection, 5 volt power, clock speed and data) in beautiful colors.
And 4x 2 pairs of wires in a colorfull metal shield, these are the data wires for the picture and sound.

Before you begin, slide the first part from the connector on, its a common mistake to have the connector in place and then realise that you needed to slide that one on first. Then strip down the metal shields of the wire pairs so they will be exposed, next remove about 3mm of the inner wires so the core will be exposed. (do this with all wires)

I used sissors to strip the cables but you can use any tool you like to strip the cable.

Next: try to line up the first pair of wires to the connector, first measure which one you need with the multimeter and then align them up to the connector. I used my crocodile clamp assist to keep things straight. (I used tape to protect the cable from the crocodile clamp)

Step 4: Soldering...

First I did some solder on the contacts and on the wires.
After that you can hold them together and push them in place while heating the contact on the connector..
The 25 watt soldering iron was more then enough, (maybe to much) for the job...

Work from left to right (or right to left)
If you dont you could end up like photo 3, with to much sodler it will touch the contact next to it and change into one big solid lump.
This can be corrected by using desolder wire...

After a a few wires you could be in for a suprice, some of the wires can bearly make it to the contacts.
(going through all the other wires) This should not be a really big problem, just try to place the wires in the shortest way from cable to connector...

And done, I was left with two ground wires, which I cut off. The other end shoud still be connected to ground so that doesnt really matter. (I hope)

Step 5: Some Extra Precaution...

After searching on the internet for a Hdmi connector I found out that there wasnt anything with a cable strain relief.
Iam not sure why but do they think that 15 small wires are going to hold out?
I replaced another connector two months back because it malfunctioned after working for two months...

And for some reason my cable is a lot thinner then the exit hole in the back of the connector (of course there are many types of Hdmi cables out there but you would think they thought of that when they designed this connector) Not sure what to think of this...

And tata...  a fully functional connector, but we are not there yet...
Test one more time ALL connections to make sure you do not have any wires twisted or connected wrong.
You dont wanna blow the Hdmi connections on your computer or television.

Some additions:
I took some precaution and ordered a Hdmi to Hdmi connector and another 3 meter Hdmi cable.
The idea is that when the cables breaks down (again) the only thing you have to replace is the 3 Meter cable (which saves you a lot of trouble)

To hold it all together I used some tytrips and a alumilium strip.

Step 6:

Then we put the hole assembly into the wall, since the walls are hollow we have enough room to put it all in there without bending anything.
After closing it all up there is nothing to be seen, but if this cable breaks we can connect a new Hdmi cable within 10 minutes.  

And there you go, running a signal through a 5 meter long cable with a self-soldered connector, then through a Hdmi to Hdmi connector and then another 3 meters to the Imac with converter.
I tested it with a 1080P trailer and there was no scrambeld or strange picture to be seen, proves that Hdmi is a good and solid protocol.

Way to go Hdmi...

Bytheway a nice tip that I've got from from c0lin was to get one of these:

And I have seen comments about using glue as a strain relief, I have something to say about it: DONT DO IT!
It didnt work with any glue I used (including hot glue) and I ended up doing al this a second time.
The cable itself and the connectors are so smooth that any glue you would use has trouble sticking on to it.
That is why I left it out and used the aluminium and Tyraps approach.

For more tips (untested) look at the comments below (first page)



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    26 Discussions


    Tip 1 year ago on Introduction

    Probably not available at time this was posted, but now pick up an HDMI Breakout Board with terminal blocks and there is no soldering required. Simply map your wires, attach via the terminal blocks, and test. Easy to correct mistakes as well.


    2 years ago

    I wonder if it would be easier and possible to just cut the end off a good hdmi cable and splice it together with my cabke that needs a new connector. Seems like it would be easier and would solve the strain relief problem.


    3 years ago

    Thanks for the work |!!


    4 years ago on Introduction

    Just want to say a big thank you for these instructions! I signed up to instructables to share my experience after following your instructions. My in wall HDMI cable was damaged at the end. Your instructions were great and I followed everything exactly. In the end, I got a working hdmi cable again! Didn't like the unappealing technique of joining two cut ends of different hdmi cables together, especially when I couldn't find the exact same cable. I did purchase the hdmi connector from Conrad: alternatives are very hard to find, but they do charge a fortune to send outside UK/Europe.

    I found the helping hands/rig vital to keep things still while soldering. I used 60/40 solder and a fine tip soldering iron - around 30w was sufficient. The desolder wire was very useful.

    Your tips about applying some solder on the contacts was good, and also tinned some the tips. I used the solder with one hand and the other hand, I used a pair of tweezers to hold the wire in place. Tweezers were very helpful. I would directly apply the solder tip to the wire and it would solder on nice and neat. It was getting tight with some of the wires to reach the contacts, sometimes I had to slightly pull, but also thread the wires around others to minimise the distance - tweezers were very helpful. I guess prevention is the key, and keeping all wires the same length, and stripping them consistently is vital.

    To identify which color wires goes to which end, I used the cut end of the broken hdmi connector, and stripped the end of the broken wires. I then used the multimeter to confirm which wire went to which contact (often the wires are hard to distinguish).

    I connected all the data shield wires and even grounded the outer foil cover to the hdmi connector ( just copied the broken end hdmi connector )

    I used the glue gun to insulate all the wires, very useful as I didn't strip the wires very evenly, and risk having the wires contact. Very good tip.

    I will use the female-female hdmi connector and extra hdmi connector to prevent fiddling around with the new head connector I added.

    Many thanks again for the clear instructions

    1 reply

    Reply 4 years ago on Introduction

    Hi Mboy1,

    Thank you so much for your comment on this.
    I am happy you we're able to fix your HDMI cable using these instructions, that is the biggest reason I put them up here.
    Also thank you for your detailed email here, I usually don't get so much feedback on this.
    Sorry for responding so late but I really do appreciate your comment.

    Happy TV watching, with regards, Ewout...


    4 years ago on Introduction

    Hi, just wanted to say thank you for the simple and yet illustrated instructions.


    4 years ago on Introduction


    But ones the cable is cut

    But once the cable is cut


    5 years ago on Introduction

    really helpful instructions! I'm going to try it my self next week. There's just one part I don't get.. When you measure the resistance "to know which Connection is going where", where do you place the other end of the multimeter? You place one end with the small test wire connected to the working end of the cable, but what about the other end? How do you close the circuit? Feels like I'm missing something here...


    6 years ago on Introduction

    Thanks for the instructions. The hardest part seems to be obtaining a connector. Any suggestions?

    1 reply

    Reply 5 years ago on Introduction

    I sometime work with the Wire to wire soldering, so if there is somewhere another damaged cable.. cut it into two pieces and there you go!


    6 years ago on Introduction

    I wrote too soon. does not ship to the US or Canada.


    6 years ago on Introduction

    Thank you. That was easy. I sifted through thousands of sites before I asked. They're not so easy to find in the US.


    6 years ago on Introduction

    you can get them every where on the internet, I just order them from becuase I know it s a good company in all.. But I guess any website who has them on sale will do...


    7 years ago on Introduction

    Some minor updates to the instructable and my english thanks for the comments...


    7 years ago on Introduction

    This would be helpful if this was an especially long cable, however, if you find the correct shop you can find a good 6ft HDMI cable for about 1$ per foot. Since people shop around for TVs but not the accessories, I suspect the big stores make more money selling an HDMI cables than the 40" flat screen. I buy my cables from the local "geek" shop. You know the kind of places that sells computer parts that require a screw driver to install.

    Also watch that your solder is for electronics as the plumbing grade stuff leaves corrosive residue that is difficult to wash off. This residue will destroy the fine wires in a few years with any humidity. The residue is also slightly conductive and can hurt battery life in battery powered devices.

    The hot glue tip from Pignanelli can be extended to also make strain reliefs. Hot glue is also nice because you can still solder inside of the glue if you have made a mistake.


    7 years ago on Introduction

    I would recommend regular 63/37 solder. If the 'Tin' you call out is for lead-free solder is problematic in a hobby environment.. It needs higher temperatures and can easily lead to bad solder joints. Also, a fine tip soldering iron is a must.
    Make sure to connect the shield wires! HDMI uses very high frequencies to transmit the video. Improper shield may cause trouble down the road or cause interference with other electronics. Remember: "Hope is neither a plan nor a course of action".

    The pinout is at:


    7 years ago on Step 6

    You still need to open up that panel to replace the second cable if anything goes wrong. Not done correctly in the first place and not done correctly the second time.

    Get one of these: