Round Dining Table Build With Only $300 in Tools and Materials

The table turned out exactly how we wanted it and only using $300! This was a 1-2 day build which is perfect to fit into a busy schedule. Let us know what you guys think!!

Materials $75

Tools $225 (The main tool kit is only $130, but there are some expensive clamps we used)

----Tools Used----
These are affiliate links, so we make a small commission off purchases made through a link:) Thanks for your support!

Circular Saw: http://amzn.to/2yiUspQ

Drill: http://amzn.to/2wMAbry

Drill Bit Set: http://amzn.to/2wMAbry

Tape Measure: http://amzn.to/2wMAbry http://amzn.to/2yiJWiC

Chalk Line: http://amzn.to/2wMAbry

Square: http://amzn.to/2wMAbry

Orbital Sander: http://amzn.to/2wMAbry

Pipe Clamps: http://amzn.to/2wMAbry (You will also need pipe from your local home center)

We have a set of plans that will take you step by step through the building process and includes all the dimensions of this table. CLICK THROUGH THIS LINK FOR A COUPON CODE! 30% off your purchase of our table plans. Be sure to check out Waterlox's finishes while you are over there:) https://goo.gl/JE5VHB

MATERIAL LIST

· (2) 4x4x8 untreated post (southern yellow pine preferably)

· (3) 2x12x8 Untreated southern yellow pine

· 2x4x8 Untreated (Predferably southern yellow pine)

· (4) 4”- 6” screws http://amzn.to/2x6Ep2u

· (20) 2.5” Screws http://amzn.to/2x88HSa

· 1/2” Plug cutter or 1/2” dowel

· The finish of your choice (stain.. clear coat.. ect.) We used Waterlox www.waterlox.com/woodbrew

Step 1: Cutting the Table Legs

Every angle on this table is 15º, so go ahead and make a mark on your speed square at 15º to keep things consistent. The easiest way to cut these is using a miter saw, but this can be done by carefully laying your lines out on both sides and use a circular saw. Each leg has parallel 15º angles on each end. Make (4) legs out of 4x4.

Step 2: Cutting the Base Lower Cross Pieces

You will make (2) cross pieces out of 4x4, but the notches will be opposite of each other. This is very important so that the angles on each end will end up in the correct direction. Each piece has a perpendicular 15º angles on the ends. In the center of each there is a notch that is 3 1/2" wide and 1 3/4" deep. This notch allows the two cross pieces to join together in a later step. Pay close attention to the orientation of the angles and notches in the diagram below.

Step 3: Cutting the Upper Table Top Supports

These are made the exact same way as the lower supports. The angles on the ends are purely cosmetic and there for do not need to be exact. The notches however still need to be in opposite directions. The notches are also slightly different. They are 3 1/2" wide and 3/4" deep. Make (2) upper supports using the 4’ 2x4 pieces.

Step 4: Table Top

You will need to glue (5) of the 2x12s together to form the table top. Doing this will require you to have two straight edges on the boards. If you only have a circular saw then clamp a straight edge of some sort to the board and cut the rounded edge off your 2x12. Now measure over from that side 11” and cut another straight edge using a guide. This guide could be a 2x4, long ruler, or anything else that is straight. You should end up with (5) pieces that ate 11” wide and 48” long. Don’t worry if your boards are a little over or under 11” because you’ll have plenty of room to ply with later.

Glue (2) of your table top boards together at a time. This will help you keep things even and make the process easier. After you have (2) boards glued together, glue the 5th board in between them. You should end up with a square top that roughly measures 48” x 55”.

Flip the table top over to the bad side and screw a small screw in the center of the top. Use a string and a pencil to draw a circle that’s your desired diameter. We chose 48” in diameter. Use a jig saw or circular saw to cut the table to round.

Step 5: Sanding

Pre sand everything before continuing. These parts will be difficult to get to with a sander once assembled. We used 120 grit, 220 grit, and 320 grit.

Step 6: Base Assembly

Assembling the base is the trickiest part. Start by putting the lower cross pieces together. Use 2 1/2" screws to attach these two together. Make sure to attach them from the bottom so that the screws aren’t visible in the final product.

Next you need to drill a 1/2" hole in the bottom of each table leg. Drill this hole 1” deep if you are using 6” screws and 2” deep if you are using 4” screws. Get someone to help you hold the leg in place and drill a pilot hole for your screw. Drive the screw in place and do this for all (4) legs.

Connect the upper cross pieces together in the same way and then place them on top. Take your time to center the cross pieces over the table legs. Screws the cross piece into each legs with 2 1/2" screws.

Lastly plug the 1/2" holes in each leg. You use dowels ore a plug cutter to do this.

Step 7: Apply Finish

Before attaching the top to the base, go ahead and apply your finish. We chose this awesome finish called Waterlox. It is a tung oil finish with resins mixed in. Its pricy, but the durability is worth it.

Step 8: Attach the Table Top

Use 2 1/2" screws to attach the top to the upper cross pieces. Drill a hole slightly larger than the screw all the way through the cross piece and then screw the top down. The wiggle room in the upper cross piece is there to all the wood move with seasonal changes. You may need to add a washer to the screw to keep it from going through the larger hole in the cross piece