Spinning Art Machine




Introduction: Spinning Art Machine


In this instructable I will explain how I did my Spin Art Machine with the help of my Prusa i3 and some electronics. This is a €10 project.

I will explain, step by step, how to use STL objects made on Fusion 360 and how to edit parameters so this can fits for each one with their own electronics. The process is pretty simple and fast. The results are amazing and creativity is the key.

This is an open project and I will update with kind ideas to get this instructable better.

Of course you should adapt it to your will and needs (as an example you can had a bigger painting plate or a better motor, leds or any pimp you like). Imagination is the limit.

I hope you like it.

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Step 1: Materials and Tools

Some tools or materials are obvious (like 3d printer, solder iron, wire, etc)

About 100g of PLA or any other filament.

Light wood board

Motor - I used the one I got at home (Volleman MOT2N 2.5 6VDC 210mA)

Switch On-Off or On-On 2 positions (any switch will do)

Potentiometer 10KR

Power supply mini-USB (230VAC->5VDC) 1.0A 5W

USB mini-B 5pin - Molex 0548190519

M4 10mm x 3 screw

M4 x 3 nuts

Wide adhesive tape

I spend about €10 (without counting the PLA)

It is a pretty cheap project and it worth the work involved.

Step 2: Printed Parts in Fusion 360

As people likes to use the available material at home or office, and because there are electonic parts that will have different measures, I’ll do a brief explanation how to change the project in Fusion 360. Mostly because the fittings can change.
In case you use all the same pieces as in this instructable, you don’t need to change anything.

The Front Panel is where the switch and potentiometer fits. If you want to use different ones then you need to edit Sketch 4 from component Potentiometer. Same to the switch, editing sketches from component switch. Right mouse click in sketch 4 (from left list) then edit sketch. If you have a totally different component you can import the 3d into Fusion 360 and then redraw the sketch. It is pretty easy. Then you can Combine, from modify menu, and make the cut. Remember to had at least 0,025mm tolerance (gap between component and the piece to print), all around. There are 2 main reasons for the Front Panel and the Main Body to be 2 different pieces. Firstly it will be easier to mount all the components, and secondly you can change the front panel without condemn the main body, even after print.

In the back you can see where the mini-usb (Molex 0548190519) fits. I’ve glued carefully the upper face to the Main Body. Have attention to not put too much glue. I’ve used a hot silicone glue gun.

If you need to edit the Main Body to use any other kind of 5V receptor, you only need to edit the Main Body sketch on the list (between 18 and 23). It is very easy to know what sketch to edit: just pass the mouse over the sketch and they will light up, pointing what sketch correspond to what part.

For those that need to change the motor hollow in the Main Body, edit the sketch 1. Have some time changing it as all the design is based on that measure.

Note that every time you change a sketch, a lot or some steps are depend from that sketch, and that they will use the same parameters on that change. So, sometime you need to edit those steps too to get everything good. When you have those kind of dependencies and they change a lot, you will see some red steps and some yellow steps that need your attention. Fusion 360 will always warn you about those kind of errors. Don't be afraid to edit everything you need because it won’t crash. Fusion 360 allows you to edit everything in a very intuitive way. An operation like a fillet or a chanfer can be done dragging an arrow. Something very useful to give some strongness to your 3D printed part.

The timeline it is a very powerful tool in CAD. It can be used to edit something left behind, and everything else will update after. Very handy.

Autodesk Fusion 360 Public Link

Step 3: Circuit (Autodesk Circuit)

This is a very simple circuit.

5v Power source -> Switch -> Potentiometer -> Motor DC -> Ground

Step 4: Circular Base

Make a circle (I've used a needle with a line and a pencil).

Cut the circle (I've used a Dremel. Not the perfect tool for this, but it did the job).

Step 5: Assembling Everything

Assembling is very straightforward:

1. Assemble the front panel with the switch and potentiometer

2. Glue the mini usb. Carefully, you don't want glue inside the mini usb

3. Insert the DC Motor into the socket (don't forget to put the nut inside the socket before)

5. Screw the motor

6. Screw the front panel to the main body and wire everything as in the scheme

7. Insert 2 nuts in the support

8. Glue and screw the circular wood board the the printed support

9. Assemble the support to the DC Motor

10. Screw the support to the DC Motor

11. Use the painters paper adhesive around the wood board. You can seal it with some glue. This will waterproof the board.

Step 6: Spin, Draw, Paint and Have Fun!

Yeah! Lots of fun!

My kids love it.

We used ink, water ink, pencil today... And tomorrow we will use sand and gliters. You can had some wood glue in the water or any other mixed technique... Imagination is the limit!

Above all, have fun!

Design Now: 3D Design Contest 2016

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Design Now: 3D Design Contest 2016

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    Excellent job of modeling. That Fusion rendering looks really good.