Upgrade 3D Printer Heated Bed to 110V

About: Avid 3D printer builder, currently completing my 3rd printer design. If you like what you see and maybe even implement what provide, consider supporting me on Patreon.com: https://www.patreon.com/Core3d_tech...

I got tired of waiting 10 minutes for my heated bed to get to 70°C? My original bed took 12 minutes to get to 60°C and I never even tried to get to 110°C. It pretty much maxed out at 78 (even inside closed chamber). 12 volts for a 200mm x 300mm bed simply does not seem to do it.

Some users upgrade their bed to 24V and see an improvement but, why not go all the way. I upgraded my bed to 110V and it now heats up to 110°C in 1 minute and 27 seconds.

Before you continue, fair warning. Up to this point your printer probably only has 1 mains (110V) going straight into your power brick. Adding a 110V heated bed now means you'll have 110V coming out of that brick. Furthermore, depending on your printer, your bed may be moving a whole lot, causing all sorts of wear and tear to cables. 110V IS DANGEROUS. Make sure everything is grounded properly and protected from wear and tear. TAKE ALL NECESSARY PRECAUTIONS WHEN DEALING WITH 110V. Oh and if you're in Europe 220V WILL KILL YOU EVEN FASTER!!

Update: one of the commenters brough up grounding. Here is a video that covers that topic: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uS65mTojewc

So with that out of the way, let's get going.

Step 1: Materials

There aren't a lot of items you need for this upgrade.

A heater pad. I went with the Keneevo Silicone pad which comes fully wired with both 110V wires and Thermistor

KEENOVO Silicone Heater Mat: $49.50 http://amzn.to/2C0fAqJ

Aluminum Build Plate: $24.99 https://amzn.to/2thliPg

uxcell SSR-25 DA 25A 3-32V DC / 24-380V AC Solid State Relay: $9.95 http://amzn.to/2Cn0Uhm

The Heater Mat I used came fully cabled but if you order something else (non-assembled) you'll also need:

14-16 Gauge wire (lot of Amps going through): $8.95 http://amzn.to/2BtmaoN

Thermistors: $7.38 http://amzn.to/2GhLfCq

You may want to consider putting some sort of protection around your cables like a braided sleeve

braided cable sleeve: $7.99 http://amzn.to/2sy2kpr

Both Build plate and Heater mat are 300x200mm. They are available in other sizes.

Step 2: Installation

The setup and installation is easier than you might expect. On your printer's controller board very little changes. The Thermistor goes where the original thermistor was and the power cables that go to your current heated bed now simply do to the SSR (Solid State Relay). It will take the 12Volt signal from your board and use it to open up the 110V to your new bed.

Be aware that unlike your original heated bed that didn't care about polarity, the SSR does care about Polarity. Make sure you connect the Plus from your board to the Plus on the SSR.

If your bed was not heated before, you'll have to change your software to make it aware of a heated bed. If you are using a RAMPS board this is a matter of changing the Board in configuration.h

// The following define selects which electronics board you have.<br>// Please choose the name from boards.h that matches your setup
#ifndef MOTHERBOARD
  #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB (Extruder, Fan, Bed)
#endif

Step 3: The Difference

Like I stated earlier, it makes a world of difference. My old 12V heater could not get the printer past 78°C and it took 12 minutes to get to 60°C

The new 110V bed easily goes past 110°C and gets there in 1 minutes and 27 seconds (As seen in the video attached).

Now, if only I could get my Nozzle heater upgraded as it now takes longer to heat than the bed.

Let me know you experience with 110V heated beds.

If you liked this check out my other instructables or visit my website at https://core3d.tech

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    5 Discussions

    you didnt give any instructions about earthing. you warn us of mains voltage but you dont tell us how to earth. i googled because i want to find out how safe or dangerous this is to use but i cant find much on safety

    2 replies
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    Core3Ddarrell.wildthing

    Reply 5 weeks ago

    That was bugging me too. I'm currently redoing my kitchen so I had the master electrician have a look at my printer. His reasoning that the silicone bed doesn't have a ground wire is because, well it's entirely covered in silicone and thus the solder ends aren't exposed, it should be safe (enough). That said, he did mention it be good to connect a ground wire from the ground on the inlet to the printers frame (and if there's no metal connection between the metal bed (to which the silicone is glued) and the frame,

    I think this video covers most of those bases (including a gfci outlet) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uS65mTojewc

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    darrell.wildthingCore3D

    Reply 5 weeks ago

    well the ground having learnt it from that video is important in case any of the wiring shorts to the frame and funny thing is i got shown that video earlier today lol. it is very informative! i sent the guy a message though because i couldnt find it when i searched youtube. i told him he should add something like is a 110v silicone heater safe if it was in the tags i would have found this but there was nothing.

    i realise the earth is much of a safety precaution but i feel better now ive seen that video that the mains voltage solution iwill be using is going to be better than a 12 or 24v system which requites much more attention!

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    n4mwd

    Question 8 months ago on Step 3

    Does the AC in close proximity to the thermistor wires cause any trouble with the ADC used for the thermistor?

    1 answer
    0
    None
    Core3Dn4mwd

    Answer 8 months ago

    I can only speak for what I've experienced, which by now is hundreds of printing hours since the upgrade, and I have not witnessed any interference issues with the thermistor.