AGBarber

Thank you!

Thank you!

Hi, yes the only things you'll need to change in the code are the segment definitions and also the stripLength in the main .ino file.Unfortunately you'll have to re-write most of the segment section defs. For the line segments it's not too bad. You're correct that you need to change the lengths to 10 or -10, but you also need to change the start pixel of each line so, for example:line1 = {0, 10};line2 = {10, 10};line3 = {20, 10} etcThe reversed lines are a bit more complicated in that the start pixel is actually the last pixel in the segment section (the negative length makes the segment count backwards in the rest of the code) so for example:lineRev1 = {9, -10};lineRev2 = {19, -10};lineRev3 = {29, -10};You basically just add 10 to the previous start pixel to get the next one.The segment …

Hi, yes the only things you'll need to change in the code are the segment definitions and also the stripLength in the main .ino file.Unfortunately you'll have to re-write most of the segment section defs. For the line segments it's not too bad. You're correct that you need to change the lengths to 10 or -10, but you also need to change the start pixel of each line so, for example:line1 = {0, 10};line2 = {10, 10};line3 = {20, 10} etcThe reversed lines are a bit more complicated in that the start pixel is actually the last pixel in the segment section (the negative length makes the segment count backwards in the rest of the code) so for example:lineRev1 = {9, -10};lineRev2 = {19, -10};lineRev3 = {29, -10};You basically just add 10 to the previous start pixel to get the next one.The segment and segmentSet definitions shouldn't need to be changed.For the ring segments you'll have to re-write all of them because all the numbers will be different, and you'll also have more of them. The rings are horizontal slices of pixels. The dodecahedron is mounted on one of its tips, while the strips run vertically up it (for the most part). If you imagine slicing the strips between each pixel, and then re-combining all the pixels that were on the same "layer" that's what each ring segment is. So you end up with a vertical stack of "rings". It would probably be helpful to read the comments in segmentSet.h in the library files since it has a complete description of how you structure segments.If the rings are too complicated (they are pretty tedious) you can omit them. Only three effects in the code use the ring segments, so you can just comment those out and everything will still work; the code will skip over the effect case #'s. Finally, I guess you've designed your own dodecahedron with edges for 10 pixels? My edges have separations for each pixel, so you probably won't be able to use a denser strip without creating new edges (or just removing most of them, you probably only need one in the center for structural reasons). Let me know if you have any more questions! Good Luck!

The encoder gerber file is in the Github PCB folder linked in the Supplies along with the main PCB. There's also a link to the PCB schematic in EasyEDA that has both the main and encoder PCBs and their circuit diagrams, allowing you to generated the geber files in EasyEDA if you wish. Let me know if you can't see the files for some reason.

Thank you for the suggestion! I've had a few comments about inside corners from other people so I've added it as its own mode in the code. It works just like you said; the wheel diameter is added to the resulting measurement to account for the wheel starting offset from the corner edge. I've update the Instructable with this info in the Code Step. By default the mode is the third mode (after the pipe diameter mode and before the tachometer), although the order can be easily changed in the code if you wish.

My mistake, the encoder PCB Gerber was in another Github repo. I've added it to the PCB folder in the Digital Measuring Wheel's Github repo. You should be able to download it now. I've also added the encoder's PCB schematic to project in EasyEDA.Thanks for catching that. I hope your build goes well! :)

I believe that for a general radius calculation you need to know the exact percent of the circumference you've moved across (usually note as an angle). Unfortunately I don't think there's a way for the DMW to determine this angle.For full 90 degree corners you can just use the pipe diameter mode and divide by 8 (to go from diameter to radius and the divide by 4 since you only measure 1/4 of the circumference).

That depends a lot on what tools/parts you already have and where you are. Best case, if you have all the tools, some common parts like screws, etc, and you buy most of the parts from Aliexpress it'll probably add up to around $50.

Oh, my mistake. I did think about that while I was making the DMW, so I set the radius to be displayed on the OLED when in the default measuring mode.

The BOM is a link that should take you to a Digikey page to with all the parts listed. You will need a Digikey account for it to work. If you can't get it to work, you can just order the parts separately using the links in the Supplies step. You might be able to avoid using a 3D-printer, but you'll need to figure out how to make the hinges yourself. You absolutely do have to solder the electronic parts in place though. You might be able to get the shades to work with a Raspberry-Pi 4, but keep in mind you'll need to figure out how to wire it up correctly, and I can't guarantee that the code will work without any adjustments. The Pi also a lot larger than a Wemos D1 Mini, and so it won't fit very well on the shades. I'd highly recommend just using a Wemos as it's cost is not significant ov…

The BOM is a link that should take you to a Digikey page to with all the parts listed. You will need a Digikey account for it to work. If you can't get it to work, you can just order the parts separately using the links in the Supplies step. You might be able to avoid using a 3D-printer, but you'll need to figure out how to make the hinges yourself. You absolutely do have to solder the electronic parts in place though. You might be able to get the shades to work with a Raspberry-Pi 4, but keep in mind you'll need to figure out how to wire it up correctly, and I can't guarantee that the code will work without any adjustments. The Pi also a lot larger than a Wemos D1 Mini, and so it won't fit very well on the shades. I'd highly recommend just using a Wemos as it's cost is not significant overall.

Oh, to add to my previous comment, I have written a number of other Led based instructables which you may be interested in. You can find them in my profile. My Led ornament is probably the most beginner friendly.

No plans right now, sorry!

Oh, I dunno why I didn't try that. I'll add it in the steps. Thanks!

That sounds sick, would love to see it!

Unfortunately, I don't really have the time to make another one at the moment.I definitely encourage you to try though. Soldering onto the Led strips is definitely the hardest part, so maybe you could start by buying a strip to practice on and see how it goes.There's also other, less involved infinity shapes out there like this Adafruit one:https://learn.adafruit.com/neopixel-infinity-cube

Thank you :D

Thank you.

Thanks!

Thank you! :D

Nope, pretty sure that with labor I'd have to charge more than most are willing to pay. Likewise, I'd rather not have to manage the logistics of it.Making one for yourself really looks more difficult that it actually is, so I encourage you to give it a go! :)

Sorry about that I've fixed the links. I re-organized the repository a bit and I forgot to update them. Thanks for letting me know!

Very cool! It would be great to see a video of the staff in action, but I'm guessing that the POV effects are hard to film.

Since almost all the parts are 3D printed, trying to make it without a printer would basically be like starting from scratch.You could potentially use common eva foam for everything, but doing so would lead to a number of design challenges that are beyond the scope of this Instructable ( and that I am not super knowledgeable about). To get the Leds to show you'd probably need to use led foam (see my Led Mask Instructable for info).

Thank you! I do know of APA102 LEDs, but I have never used them. My effect library is based on the Adafruit Neopixel library, which iirc only drives WS2812 style LEDs. At some point (hopefully in the near future) I intend port the library to use FastLed instead, which does support APA102s. The LEDs I chose (SK6182) are essentially the same as of WS2812's and, at the time of designing the sword, were available on strips in the smaller SMD size, whereas WS2812's were not. Looking back, I could probably have made the sword work with normal WS2812 strips, but at the time I was concerned with keeping the blade acceptably thin while also giving the LEDs enough space to diffuse their light. Finally, feel free to use my 18650 + Arduino Pro-Mini + Charger setup in your own projects (just be sure t…

Thank you! I do know of APA102 LEDs, but I have never used them. My effect library is based on the Adafruit Neopixel library, which iirc only drives WS2812 style LEDs. At some point (hopefully in the near future) I intend port the library to use FastLed instead, which does support APA102s. The LEDs I chose (SK6182) are essentially the same as of WS2812's and, at the time of designing the sword, were available on strips in the smaller SMD size, whereas WS2812's were not. Looking back, I could probably have made the sword work with normal WS2812 strips, but at the time I was concerned with keeping the blade acceptably thin while also giving the LEDs enough space to diffuse their light. Finally, feel free to use my 18650 + Arduino Pro-Mini + Charger setup in your own projects (just be sure to credit me and enif, who designed the LiPo holder). I love seeing other peoples designs and ideas! I also have a Wemos D1 Mini version of the PCB that you can find in my other Instructable: https://www.instructables.com/Neopixel-LED-Face-Mask/. It is quite a bit larger, but should still be suitable for portable designs.

Thank you! Perhaps one day I'll try making a cape haha :).

Thank you! :)

Haha, I guess it's b/c they are compatible with the classic 2.54mm Dupont connectors, so sellers on Amazon, Ebay, etc list them as 2.54mm for SEO purposes and that gets stuck in everyone's head.

Thank you! I'm definitely a Led addict haha. :D

R4 and Q4 are connected between the D2 pin of the Wemos and the input pin of the TP4056 charger. Q4 is a 2N2222 transistor. When the battery is being charged, the 2N2222's gate will open, registering as HIGH on D2. This let's the Wemos know that the battery is being charged. If the mask is turned on when charging, due to how I arranged the circuit, the TP4056 will try to drive both the mask and charge the lipo. This will probably confuse the TP4056, and may lead to damage to the lipo. So, by detecting the charger using D2, the Wemos can turn off all the Leds to reduce current draw. This isn't a perfect solution, and since it's not part of option 1, I didn't add the functionality to my code. Basically, you can ignore Q4 and R4. Just remember to not turn the mask on when charging.

I made a small mistake in my explanation. The D2 pin will be pulled LOW when the charger is connected. To get it to work, you need to pull D2 to HIGH using the internal pullups of the esp8266.

C4 is meant to be a 1000uf electrolytic capacitor. There's a header for it on the Pcb. Generally, when powering ws2812 leds it's good practice to add a large capacitor to help smooth out any spikes in current draw. This is more important when dealing with wall power supplies than batteries (wall supply voltages are more likely to sag depending on the circuit). You can include a capacitor if you like, but the mask will almost certainly be fine without it.

Thank you :)

Thank you!

Oops, repository was private. Should be fixed now, thanks for letting me know.