Tell us about yourself!
Beautiful workmanship.Some mods I'm thinking about: 1. Including a battery pack, so the speaker can be used without the power dongle I know the speaker is not as mobile as some small plastic one, but it would be nice to occasionally move it to different areas of the hangar I work in without having to find a power outlet.2. Making the power cord less obvious by moving the power inlet plug to the back panel, and including extra wire internally, and soldering male and female 2-pole plug pair into that length of extra wire. With this arrangement, I could still remove the back panel, then stretch out the extra internal length of wire and unplug the internal wire from the internal speaker electronics. Thoughts?
I've seen many hardware stores with fewer kinds of clamps, and fewer numbers overall. No wonder you need that rack! Very nice build.Are you planning to do any kind of painting, staining, edge banding, laser engraving? Will you do RFID clamp inventory onboard monitoring, or will you just make do with strain gages monitoring total weight on each of the wheels, and identify which clamps have been removed and not returned just by weight changes? (LOL... I jest; some of these instructables are just too....too!)
Step 1, find an aluminum ball of desired size.Step 2, wrap in aluminum foil.Step 3, tear off aluminum foil, and put it in recycling bin.Step 4. Polish aluminum ball.Step 5. Enjoy!
Instead of using wood for the master mold, is there a reason not use a material with a more uniform matrix... like a plastic sheet material (acrylic, nylon, polycarbonate), or plaster of paris... to try to avoid tear-out, etc. that can occur with wood.
Or metal (aluminum??)
I wonder if it might not be better to attach the jar lids to their supports BEFORE doing any other fabrication on the supports (drilling ends for bearing attachment; assembly into structure). First, it would be easier to screw the lids to the support if the supports were flat on a workbench. Second, if the support should split, which can happen when iscrewing in several fasteners in a row in a very narrow wooden member, it is much easier to replace with another piece of wood.
I have Masonite tops, but they are screwed on using countersunk flat top screws. Never had a problem hitting a screw with a plane or other tool. And this arrangement makes it easier to flip over the Masonite when the first upward facing surface gets all buggered up, and then use the other surface for a few years. Not sure you could do that if the Masonite is glued down.The only problem is ... it doesn't look as nice as the varnished 2x4s.
or hardboard (Masonite), which doesn't splinter when gouged.
I didn't see anything said about balance... Other places I've seen a 50-50 split of weight between handle and blade. But... there's not a big differentiation between blade and handle on your knife anyway. Do you have any thoughts on the matter
Soooo... did a naval architect review your construction? It seems that the walls were constructed very similar to a house on land, and not like a sea-going boat - it seems that one wave over the stern would wash it all away. Of course, I realize that this is not an "overhauled" tug, but rather a conversion to a house boat, but you did put engines in it for a reason... presumably you expect not to remain chained to a pier.A lot of work... it looks nice inside!
Soooo... did a naval architect review your construction? It seems that the walls were constructed very similar to a house on land - and it seems that one wave over the stern would wash it all away. Of course, I realize that this is not an "overhauled" tug, but rather a
My first knife
How to make Tapioca Pearls from scratch.
How to win Instructables contests.