AlyssonR2

Unlike most concrete pavers, these actually have the look of natural waterworn stone slabs. An excellent look if I ever saw one. My dad used to do something similar with poured concrete slab, and he found that wire brushes and bundles of fine twigs were useful as a part of the surface-sculpting toolkit.

What a glorious project!I remember, as a kid (four or five -ish?), playing the pinball machines. Great memories - I can't remember which machines they were, but the noise, the feel and the smell was wonderful.Those old machines were deadly to work on for repairs and drew an awful amount of power - a lot of which came out as radio-frequency interference (we had one in the break room at a place I used to work - a Bally 'Fireball' - and it used to interfere with the computers in the workshop - no coin mechanism, though).As far as your virtual pinball machine is concerned, it would be fun to have some physical feedback - a couple of solenoid-shifted weights linked to the sound system to trigger on high volume sounds - just enough to feel like an old time cabinet in time with the chunk-chunk-p…

What a glorious project!I remember, as a kid (four or five -ish?), playing the pinball machines. Great memories - I can't remember which machines they were, but the noise, the feel and the smell was wonderful.Those old machines were deadly to work on for repairs and drew an awful amount of power - a lot of which came out as radio-frequency interference (we had one in the break room at a place I used to work - a Bally 'Fireball' - and it used to interfere with the computers in the workshop - no coin mechanism, though).As far as your virtual pinball machine is concerned, it would be fun to have some physical feedback - a couple of solenoid-shifted weights linked to the sound system to trigger on high volume sounds - just enough to feel like an old time cabinet in time with the chunk-chunk-pop-crack of the "mechanism".I wouldn't recommend an ozone generator or an enamel-painted bakelite heater for the smells, though *grin*

What a glorious piece of work.I don't have kids, and so I never before realised that I need one of these in my life!You got my vote.

Wonderful tip. I'll use this next time I need to make electrical connections to aluminium.

Absolutely stunning piece of fully functional artwork.It reminds me (a bit) of some of the old air-wired equipment from before the age of PCBs, bu much, much tidier.

That's great stuff. Thanks.Mind you, my current projects all require double-sided boards with all the trimmings. Next time I'm on alpha prototypes, though.

Easy solution - reverse the image and use the oil. No scatter, but still the good UV penetration!

The baby oil trick is excellent.Now I can give up using toner transfer - and trying to find laser safe acetates that don't cost a fortune!

Excellent instrucatable, and an excellint idea for ultra-compact test equipment - the perfect thing to take into service ducts for checking data circuits.

A super looking device. I love making things out of scrap boxes - and this is a particularly fine example of a simple fix.The end result could pass for steampunk, Teslapunk, Cyberpunk, grunge-SF, or even tech fantasy - and all kinds of things weird and wonderful.A tip for this kind of project, though - if you are sure that you are not going to need to dismantle and rework it, the area around the USB plug could do with epoxy resin encapsulation in order to prevent a reoccurrance of the original problem - broken connections.A suggestion for a future build - replace the USB connector with some oddball connector, and then add in an obviously home-brewed adaptor to make the fantasy tech piece compatible with early 21st Century computers.

To tell the truth ... I found it in a junk shop. I suspect that casting one using a fluorescent tint and 2-part epoxy would do the trick.Several suppliers on eBay stock fluorescent acrylic rod, though the largest I've seen is 28mm.I was wondering whether violet lasers would be workable in place of LEDs - certainly, they make a dazzling display of some of my uranium glass, leaving a clear, linear track across the glass with a glowing halo.

This is a wonderful 'ible. It is possible to use a fluorescent acrylic ball, rod etc in place of the uranium marble - the yellow-green is best.I did something similar a few years back with a 3" acrylic ball to produce a dynamic, glowing head for a Mage Staff. Of course, you just can't get the staff these days. ;)

I did something similar a good few years ago using a defunct hand drill with a 5/16 chuck and a simple drill-press attachment.Perfect for those small tapped holes in sheet metal and small parts.

I've always loved reading about this kind of project and seeing what people manage to turn their rooms into.This is, by far, the most convincing themed room I have seen in recent years - often the builders get *too* carried away with the big stuff, but this project gives the impression of a home theatre built in an out-of-the-way end-of-corridor space in the depths of an Imperial starship. (Somewhere on Level 14, there's a still and illicit bar, too! *lol*). The attention to detail is wonderful, and the space window is an excellent touch. The use of PVC conduit does add that industrial/military look that we have come to expect of a working starship/space station without spoiling the clean lines of the theatre space.What you *really* need is the partially dismantled head and arm of a proto…

I've always loved reading about this kind of project and seeing what people manage to turn their rooms into.This is, by far, the most convincing themed room I have seen in recent years - often the builders get *too* carried away with the big stuff, but this project gives the impression of a home theatre built in an out-of-the-way end-of-corridor space in the depths of an Imperial starship. (Somewhere on Level 14, there's a still and illicit bar, too! *lol*). The attention to detail is wonderful, and the space window is an excellent touch. The use of PVC conduit does add that industrial/military look that we have come to expect of a working starship/space station without spoiling the clean lines of the theatre space.What you *really* need is the partially dismantled head and arm of a protocol droid in top of the carbonite panel. (I'm sure I saw an instructible for that a couple of years back.).Oh, and don't forget to make sure the bulkhead door is watertight ;)

I know that answering this thread is tantamount to necromancy, but ...I have one of these globes.It is likely that the dim streamers are as much to do with oxygen entering the globe through the glass as with the power supply being too weak.The oscillator is a CD4069UBE high voltage inverter which is rated to about 18V. A 12V supply should do the trick, but the circuit will probably run a bit hot.Since I bought the thing in order to get the miniature flyback transformer, I won't be experimenting (much).

As a matter of interest, how well did the epoxy over primer on the deadpool knife block adhere.I have a couple of retro projects that could do with that kind of surface texture, and it might do the trick - it has the look of some of the early textured paints, after all.

Thanks. No worries - I'll just have to try it for myself.

An excellent 'ible.I might just have a go at this one once mywebcam spectro project is finished.Spooling out a set of numbers is infinitely easier than playing musical jpegs! I might even add a second Arduino to handle a small graphical display.

An excellent project, and beautifully finished.Sadly Sodial no longer supply the high voltage module, but a search for "5V-12V Step up to 300V-1200V" will find a range of identical units.

I do something similar.For a much more durable panel, sheet of perspex (suitably drilled) will give a near indestructible panel.I also laminate my printed panels when I want a membrane keyboard.

You're going to have to debug the routine ReadIR yourself - it's summarised in the pseudocode in the article text.

A ridiculously simple puzzle that has had me mystified for years.I may go and make one, now - but in any case, thankyou for the solution!

A servo for the pen would work if it drove a parallel-action pen (just a pair of pins on the pen with the servo horn between them, and the pen sat in a close-fitting tube).Using something like this as an electronic pantograph - able to magnify or reduce the motions of a digitising pen would be wonderful. Make it an etch resist pen, and you can do etched artwork traced/magnified form an original.

So probably 2" angle for 16 gauge (1.6mm)Happily, I don't have any need to bend anything thicker - 14 gauge aluminium only gets used for flat mountings and fascias.

Nice work. The only equivalent I have seen used steel cable instead of belts (recovered from a skipload of old continuous-drive chart plotters). This is much the cleaner end product.Perhaps a pair of identical members for each arm - secured in an I-section format and with proper bearings at the elbow might improve matters?The next stage will, presumably be a solenoid-operated pen?After that, how about a similar device for digitising a sketch/drawing etc, and to immediately mirror it onto an wood/aluminium panel for drilling/cutting?

A brilliant 'structable - and so simple.Maybe I can finally retire my panel saw and jigsaw from aluminium service!A point for the makers out there - the angle needs to be large enough provide the necessary leverage and support when bending the sheet - so larger than 25mm angle!

Excellent project.There is just none tote missing, though - the one that is normally empty, and is used to select out the tools you are most likely to need for a particular job away from your workshop - that makes it a single trip for tools and less lugging overall.

Nice cages - have to keep those tomato plants from escaping somehow!For anyone with a rabbit problem (as we have), a simple addition of galvanised chicken wire (poultry netting) around the bottom of the cage will suffice.

What davea0511 said - it was a featured 'ible today (yesterday, now).

Excellent points!Having seen the results of a LOX leak on tarmac - it is NOT a good thing to have hanging around!

Copper would allow heat transfer rather more efficiently per micron wall thickness - but at the cost of having to have a lot thicker walls.On the other hand, copper is relatively easy to handle.I suspect that a much longer regeneration coil would be necessary, though.

You took the words right out of my mouth.Let's face it: Making LN2 and LOX are just beyond cool. (Pun intended).

AhmadD36:It is the expansion of cold gas that drops the temperature of the nitrogen enough to liquify part of it.Whatever doesn't liquify is cold enough to cool the next nitrogen in the cooling coil.You can see the effect by discharging a CO2 fire extinguisher - the horn gets cold as the gas expands - and even solififies into dry ice.

The horror possibilities of this are absolutely cringe-making.A fine proof of concept, but definitely a hack NOT for the everyday, accident-prone DIYer - nor the non accident-prone amongst us.