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  • AndrewA167 commented on niko1499's instructable Kerbal Space Program Controller:10 days ago
    Kerbal Space Program Controller:

    First off, I think this is a great and wonderful looking project - I don't play the game (wish I had more time for it - maybe someday), but such a controller looks like it'd be fun and useful, and it could be repurposed (or the idea) for such things as a UAV groundstation or such.My heart sank though on seeing that the case and such was made from that trainer, which is actually somewhat of a collectible for retro-computing enthusiasts. I mean, if you had just the parts but not the complete system, that's one thing to repurpose, but I couldn't bear to cannibalize the ET-3400 I own for this kind of project. While prices on ebay shouldn't be considered the "last word" on value, they do give an idea - type in "Heathkit ET-3400" and while the prices are all over the map, ...

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    First off, I think this is a great and wonderful looking project - I don't play the game (wish I had more time for it - maybe someday), but such a controller looks like it'd be fun and useful, and it could be repurposed (or the idea) for such things as a UAV groundstation or such.My heart sank though on seeing that the case and such was made from that trainer, which is actually somewhat of a collectible for retro-computing enthusiasts. I mean, if you had just the parts but not the complete system, that's one thing to repurpose, but I couldn't bear to cannibalize the ET-3400 I own for this kind of project. While prices on ebay shouldn't be considered the "last word" on value, they do give an idea - type in "Heathkit ET-3400" and while the prices are all over the map, an assessment does put the unit at around $100.00 in value, and that's probably climbing. I got mine from a hamfest for $25.00, but I intend to keep it in as-is working condition, too.I guess I worry on seeing this that others might be encouraged or educated that if they find a "cool old enclosure" that they should discard or repurpose the innards - not realizing they could be destroying history, or something actually valuable on the collector's market - imagine someone doing this with an old Altair 8800, or a KENBAK-1 - or ripping the keypad off a KIM-1 single board computer!Some might write me off as fussing about stuff - but they may not realize that, if they did get a deal on one of those machines because the seller either didn't know what they had, or thought it was going to another collector (it happens; several years back I picked up an Altair for $150 and was offered $900 for it later that same day on a collectors mailing list) - that they just destroyed a lot of money. This kind of thing happens in the regular antiques world quite often - people refinish a piece of old furniture not realizing that low-cost barn find that was valued at $50,000 before their work now is only appraises at a few hundred dollars due to the damage caused by the "restoration".I guess all I can do is to warn people about this kind of thing - if you find something like this that seems like a cool piece of old electronics to tear apart and repurpose, stop and think before you do. Consider and research whether it has any value on the collector's market in the condition it is in. If you find it does have value, but that you'd have to put some work into restoring it - assess what that would would entail, and decided whether it would be worth it to do that work, or pass it on to another collector who might want to. Otherwise, if the items was mass produced in such quantity that it probably won't ultimately matter, then have at it for your projects.I know in my past I have made such mistakes; I once destroyed a non-working, but probably could have been fixed, transistorized-logic desktop calculator with a nixie-tube display, and a memory function based on a wire-delay-line system - I regret doing that every time I think about it. I don't know if it was a collectible or not, but the technology was very unique, and I wish I hadn't been a stupid 18 year-old kid at the time.

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  • How to Make a Floating Faucet Fountain

    I recall the first time I ever saw one of these fountains:I was a kid, and my dad had taken me to the fairgrounds, and it was inside the commercial exhibit building. I don't recall what the people at the booth were selling, but the fountain was an interesting "draw". It was huge: The basin was a large oak barrel, and the faucet towered above everything, probably a good 10 feet in the air. A lot of water was flowing out of it, as if it were actually running. At the time, I didn't understand how it worked.And that's really the key to making this kind of fountain believable; you've got to really effectively "hide" the water source. Using an acrylic or glass tube is a great start, but to really sell it, you need to have such an amount of water coming out, that the flow e...

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    I recall the first time I ever saw one of these fountains:I was a kid, and my dad had taken me to the fairgrounds, and it was inside the commercial exhibit building. I don't recall what the people at the booth were selling, but the fountain was an interesting "draw". It was huge: The basin was a large oak barrel, and the faucet towered above everything, probably a good 10 feet in the air. A lot of water was flowing out of it, as if it were actually running. At the time, I didn't understand how it worked.And that's really the key to making this kind of fountain believable; you've got to really effectively "hide" the water source. Using an acrylic or glass tube is a great start, but to really sell it, you need to have such an amount of water coming out, that the flow effectively hides the tube. It can't just run over the tube, but has to virtually conceal it behind the flow, at least to the point where the tube mixes in with the flow, and you can't easily tell one from the other.A way to do that would be to have the tube holding the spigot up have a diameter half as big or less than the diameter of the spigot, and then somehow attaching it so that the water is shot up inside the spigot, and drains out of the spigot as if the spigot were connected to an actual water source. You would also need a pump powerful enough to pump a fair volume of water up the narrower tubing such that it comes out with a large flow rate. Balancing all of those requirements is probably much harder than it sounds, but once you do, the illusion is completed, and looks fantastic.Easier said than done, of course!

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  • AndrewA167 commented on DanPro's instructable Beef and Bourbon Pie3 months ago
    Beef and Bourbon Pie

    I was kinda wondering where you were located as I read the directions; I was seeing metric all over the place, then bam - Fahrenheit? Plus I noticed the "Cracker Barrel" part and that made me wonder too. Knowing you're in Canada and near the border, everything makes sense why it's a bit of a jumble!Anyhow - with your beef I noticed it said "lean", but not what that meant. Here in the States, our ground beef is usually sold with a ratio; 80/20 (meat to fat ratio) being on the leaner side, but usually lean-lean is in the 90/10 or 95/5 range. Cheap ground beef - which I think is best for hamburgers, is more in the 75/25 range (fat is where the flavor is - plus you don't want your burgers dry, either).So - what does "lean" mean in Canada? Is it closer to the 80...

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    I was kinda wondering where you were located as I read the directions; I was seeing metric all over the place, then bam - Fahrenheit? Plus I noticed the "Cracker Barrel" part and that made me wonder too. Knowing you're in Canada and near the border, everything makes sense why it's a bit of a jumble!Anyhow - with your beef I noticed it said "lean", but not what that meant. Here in the States, our ground beef is usually sold with a ratio; 80/20 (meat to fat ratio) being on the leaner side, but usually lean-lean is in the 90/10 or 95/5 range. Cheap ground beef - which I think is best for hamburgers, is more in the 75/25 range (fat is where the flavor is - plus you don't want your burgers dry, either).So - what does "lean" mean in Canada? Is it closer to the 80/20 - or 90/10? Or does the fat ratio matter much for these?

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  • AndrewA167 commented on hombremagnetico's instructable Pocket Size Spinthariscope4 months ago
    Pocket Size Spinthariscope

    I do have to say that this instructable was well written about a subject and device few know about; where it falls down a bit is in it's cavalier attitude on handling a radioactive source, and the ignoring of laws that exist in almost every country about handling such sources.It does do some diligence in noting to use some safety equipment to extract the Americium source from a smoke detector, I will give the author that. It also notes the elevated danger such a source possesses should it be ingested. But it might have gone further to warn people that what they are doing may be subject to laws in their country, and that proceeding could open them to legal liability.Regarding your assertion that humans would not have "entered the atomic age" had the dangers been known, I would ...

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    I do have to say that this instructable was well written about a subject and device few know about; where it falls down a bit is in it's cavalier attitude on handling a radioactive source, and the ignoring of laws that exist in almost every country about handling such sources.It does do some diligence in noting to use some safety equipment to extract the Americium source from a smoke detector, I will give the author that. It also notes the elevated danger such a source possesses should it be ingested. But it might have gone further to warn people that what they are doing may be subject to laws in their country, and that proceeding could open them to legal liability.Regarding your assertion that humans would not have "entered the atomic age" had the dangers been known, I would dispute that. I think, had we known the dangers, we would have proceeded far more cautiously than we did, and many of the accidents that were suffered by researchers and others throughout the early to post-WW2 years may have been avoided. There's also the (slim) possibility we, as a species, would have not proceeded with the development of nuclear weapons; one can hardly say we have developed socially or responsibly enough to handle weapons which can cause an existential crisis to our species should they be used en-masse. While so far, their existence have seemed to have deterred wars of the scale we have seen in the past, less than a century is not anywhere near long enough of a time to know if the reasoning of MAD holds true long-term. Given that our current POTUS has in the past ruminated on why we shouldn't be able to use such weapons, it seems clear that it is only a matter of time before some country actually does so. This would seem to indicate that we have learned little to nothing regarding these weapons as a species, unfortunately.The government regulations we have in place currently for handling radioactive material were arrived at precisely because such material is now known to be dangerous in the hands of those who either do not or can not handle it responsibly. Whether that is individuals, companies, or nation-states does not matter; these regulations seek to try to control such proliferation in order to help, in whatever manner, to keep people safe. That is part of the role of government; it is why government as a concept exists, period - it is power, willingly or unwillingly ceded to an entity in the idea and hope that such entity will keep the "citizens" from harm. One can argue that there is a point where doing so does in fact constitute a harm to the citizens; but you need to make such an argument for it to be considered, which you haven't.I'd argue that in this case, the laws and regulations that surround the handling of nuclear material from our governments around the world have been an attempt to keep the citizenry safer, and that such regulation does not rise to a harm itself.

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  • AndrewA167 commented on Joshbuilds's instructable How to Make a Powerful Hydraulic Press5 months ago
    How to Make a Powerful Hydraulic Press

    This is a very interesting project, and I appreciate what your company is doing. However......please, please, please refrain from the dangerous practices you are showing when using power tools!One should never follow the example you show in this instructable when using a jig saw. When using such a saw, the work should be properly clamped or secured, and your hands and fingers should be nowhere near the cutting blade.A similar thing can be seen with the drill; the work should be clamped to keep it from spinning out of control if the bit catches it, and your hands should not be anywhere near the drill bit when in operation.It doesn't take much for something to go wrong when using power tools that leads to injury. Sometimes it can happen in the literal blink of an eye. Using the power tool...

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    This is a very interesting project, and I appreciate what your company is doing. However......please, please, please refrain from the dangerous practices you are showing when using power tools!One should never follow the example you show in this instructable when using a jig saw. When using such a saw, the work should be properly clamped or secured, and your hands and fingers should be nowhere near the cutting blade.A similar thing can be seen with the drill; the work should be clamped to keep it from spinning out of control if the bit catches it, and your hands should not be anywhere near the drill bit when in operation.It doesn't take much for something to go wrong when using power tools that leads to injury. Sometimes it can happen in the literal blink of an eye. Using the power tools properly and wearing proper PPE (personal protection equipment) should always be stressed in projects where they are being shown and used.In the course of showing these tools being used improperly, you are giving the false impression that doing so is safe, not only for this project, but for all other projects. Such bad practices also lead to more cavalier usage of other power tools. It doesn't take much to find yourself at an ER or urgent care center getting stitches.Please consider revising your projects in light of this information, so that you and your company can promote safe power tool usage practices to others who may be new to such tools.

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  • AndrewA167 commented on Italiankiwiblog's instructable How to Make Hokey Pokey Candy5 months ago
    How to Make Hokey Pokey Candy

    It's interesting the way things are named differently in the world, even given a "common" language. Here in the United States, I've known this kind of candy as "honeycomb", too. Knowing us, it probably isn't called the same thing in every State here, either.I don't know about it's popularity, but it must have some - at least here in Arizona - because I can purchase it in the bulk foods section of a few different grocery stores.It is very easy to make; my wife and I tried it out one time. The problem can be timing. In our experiment, we let the sugar go just a tad bit longer than we should have, and it took on richer overtones - not quite "burnt", but darn close.For others making this, be prepared to work fast once you stir in the baking soda; it will foam u...

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    It's interesting the way things are named differently in the world, even given a "common" language. Here in the United States, I've known this kind of candy as "honeycomb", too. Knowing us, it probably isn't called the same thing in every State here, either.I don't know about it's popularity, but it must have some - at least here in Arizona - because I can purchase it in the bulk foods section of a few different grocery stores.It is very easy to make; my wife and I tried it out one time. The problem can be timing. In our experiment, we let the sugar go just a tad bit longer than we should have, and it took on richer overtones - not quite "burnt", but darn close.For others making this, be prepared to work fast once you stir in the baking soda; it will foam up very quickly and double or triple in size - or more! Be sure you have your pouring place ready well beforehand - the last thing you want is a pot of boiling hot foaming liquid sugar with no where to go! Be extremely careful at this step - molten sugar is the "lava" of the cooking world, and should be respected much like hot oil for deep frying: Know what you are working with and respect it. You might also keep some cold water running in the sink during this step in case things take a very bad turn (working with someone else as well can enhance safety here, which is one reason my wife and I worked together on this as well).We ended up using a metal baking sheet lined with parchment paper; once it was cool, it was easy to lift out and break up. When you break it up, you will get little shards and such everywhere - it's kinda a mess in that way. You'll also be left with a pot and maybe a baking sheet or dish with extremely hard sugar left in them. But don't worry - clean up is very easy! Just fill up your sink with extremely hot water and soak everything in it; it'll melt right off in no time!Finally, we ended up dipping some of our treats in tempered chocolate, leaving one "end" bare (as a "handle"). Chocolate coated "honeycomb" is a wonderful treat to enjoy.

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  • Moving Things (and Lasers!) Using Printed Circuit Boards

    That's an interesting device (TALP) - never heard of it before. From what I could see on the datasheets, it has a resonant frequency of about 100 Hz - which wouldn't be fast enough except for the simplest of vector images. I think your design could be scaled down and made really fast (but with a very small "throw" on the gimbal); feedback would need to be as light weight as possible for these speeds, which is why I suggested capacitive sensing. Maybe optical sensing could be done with really tiny SMD reflecting photo-sensors? Or maybe very small SMD "lidar" sensors (they do sell such sensors for small distance sensing like this)? Also (and I am not sure this is easily in the realm of diy - at least for most) instead of a mirror mounted on the other side, a double sid...

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    That's an interesting device (TALP) - never heard of it before. From what I could see on the datasheets, it has a resonant frequency of about 100 Hz - which wouldn't be fast enough except for the simplest of vector images. I think your design could be scaled down and made really fast (but with a very small "throw" on the gimbal); feedback would need to be as light weight as possible for these speeds, which is why I suggested capacitive sensing. Maybe optical sensing could be done with really tiny SMD reflecting photo-sensors? Or maybe very small SMD "lidar" sensors (they do sell such sensors for small distance sensing like this)? Also (and I am not sure this is easily in the realm of diy - at least for most) instead of a mirror mounted on the other side, a double sided PCB could be used, and that side polished to a mirror finish, then maybe silver or gold sputtered onto the surface? That would make the entire thing extremely light weight for higher scanning speeds...I wouldn't task the Arduino with a servo loop, though - instead, I would set up some kind of high-speed op-amp feedback circuit - something you could feed in an analog signal and have it match for positioning. A 741 could probably be pressed into service for this, at least up to the sub-1 khz area. Then the Arduino could output a sine wave of various frequencies via DDS or PWM with low-pass filtering for the positioning information (that, or you could do a frequency-to-voltage conversion).This definitely would get into "voodoo" analog signal territory - not a simple project at all - but I think your project points the way...

    To do it properly, you need some form of fast position feedback - basically a servo system. In a standard laser-light show, the actuators are called "galvos" - short for "galvanometers".These actuators are essentially extremely low-mass "motors" that are limited in motion (+/- 45 degrees), and use either optical or capacitive feedback for positioning. The shaft holds a small mirror, and two galvos are needed for positioning the laser (one galvo for X and another for Y). The mass is kept low to reduce overshooting and "ringing" which would show up as distortion in the scanned vector image. The driver circuitry is basically an h-bridge with built in positioning feedback from the position sensing element, that controls the current to the coils precis...

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    To do it properly, you need some form of fast position feedback - basically a servo system. In a standard laser-light show, the actuators are called "galvos" - short for "galvanometers".These actuators are essentially extremely low-mass "motors" that are limited in motion (+/- 45 degrees), and use either optical or capacitive feedback for positioning. The shaft holds a small mirror, and two galvos are needed for positioning the laser (one galvo for X and another for Y). The mass is kept low to reduce overshooting and "ringing" which would show up as distortion in the scanned vector image. The driver circuitry is basically an h-bridge with built in positioning feedback from the position sensing element, that controls the current to the coils precisely.If you google "DIY Laser Galvo" you can find a scant few people who have successfully built such actuators; it isn't an easy feat - which is probably why actual galvos are so expensive.But I think your actuator could potentially be made to work - and maybe simpler and cheaper. If you made your boards in the same manner, and used the thinnest possible PCB material, then in the middle of the coils incorporate a flat copper pad area with a connection. Make the PCBs as small as possible (in fact, as big as the mirror and no bigger - your quadrants will now be pie-shape wedges, and so will the copper zones). Gap two PCBs together, using a thin piece of shim stock or something - even thin washers would work. Put a dab of silicone in the middle between the PCBs, and let it cure (you may need to add a thickener to the silicone to prevent it from running). Glue the mirror to one side of the PCB stack.So you have mirror-pcb-silicone dab-pcb as your "sandwich" - once the silicone cures, solder extremely fine wire to the pads, then remove the shims.So now you have the same kind of positioner - but the bare copper pads now form an air-gap capacitor, for position feedback (I hope I am being clear enough here). With the light weight materials used, ringing and overshoot should be kept at a minimum. You wouldn't get a huge swing for positioning purposes, but it should be large enough that at a large distance from the actuator the movement becomes noticeable with a larger positioning radius for the beam.Kinda a "blue sky" idea, and I am not sure if it would work - but it seems like it might be worth trying...

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  • DIY Professional Open Source Night Vision Security Camera

    Not the author, but I quickly looked things up on Ebay (all prices are approximate and in USD):Camera - $40 - $50.00RasPi - $40.00Voltage Converter - $3.00Figure another $10 - $15.00 USD for the PVC pipe and fittings (and that's probably high), and the software being free; you're looking at a total cost of around $100.00 USD.You might be able to find the camera module cheaper on AliExpress or other retailers like that; you could also substitute in a different module, or one that connects up to the Pi's camera connector (though you wouldn't get the IR capability - you'd have to come up with a different solution for that). You might be able to bring the cost down to $70.00 USD total with some careful shopping.I've built a MotionEyeOS camera using parts off Amazon - a CanaKit Pi Zero W and...

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    Not the author, but I quickly looked things up on Ebay (all prices are approximate and in USD):Camera - $40 - $50.00RasPi - $40.00Voltage Converter - $3.00Figure another $10 - $15.00 USD for the PVC pipe and fittings (and that's probably high), and the software being free; you're looking at a total cost of around $100.00 USD.You might be able to find the camera module cheaper on AliExpress or other retailers like that; you could also substitute in a different module, or one that connects up to the Pi's camera connector (though you wouldn't get the IR capability - you'd have to come up with a different solution for that). You might be able to bring the cost down to $70.00 USD total with some careful shopping.I've built a MotionEyeOS camera using parts off Amazon - a CanaKit Pi Zero W and a SainSmart camera module - for about $40.00. The Pi Zero kit comes with a case for mounting the Pi and camera in, and you can power the module off USB (via the kit's 5V power supply or otherwise). WiFi connect to the network. I have mine set up - just with MotionEyeOS - to email me pictures to a gmail account when triggered. Works very well. Doesn't have IR, though. But really inexpensive (AFAIK the cheapest and smallest Wireless IP camera you can purchase).For a mount I added a 1/4-20 nut to the backside with epoxy, then standard hardware to attach to things (the 1/4-20 is standard photography nut size - so you can mount it on a regular tripod if you wanted, or any other similar standard mount).

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  • AndrewA167 commented on jbumstead's instructable "Fiber Optic" LED Matrix7 months ago
    "Fiber Optic" LED Matrix

    Here's an example of the frosted tubes:https://www.eplastics.com/EATFRST1-000X0-750X72Unfortunately, it appears that you can't get the tubes smaller than 1" in diameter (25 mm); even so some fun stuff can be done with larger tubes like that (put a few ws2812b RGB LED strips side-by-side inside the tube - and make a fire effect).You can get smaller clear acrylic tubing:https://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/plast...0.25" (6 mm) seems the smallest; you'd then have to figure out how to frost them yourself (one possible way might be a bit of steel wire bent at one end, chucked in a dremel, then spun up inside the tube to scratch it - moving the wire in and out along the length of the tube).Frosted acrylic rod seems easier to obtain:https://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastic...

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    Here's an example of the frosted tubes:https://www.eplastics.com/EATFRST1-000X0-750X72Unfortunately, it appears that you can't get the tubes smaller than 1" in diameter (25 mm); even so some fun stuff can be done with larger tubes like that (put a few ws2812b RGB LED strips side-by-side inside the tube - and make a fire effect).You can get smaller clear acrylic tubing:https://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/plast...0.25" (6 mm) seems the smallest; you'd then have to figure out how to frost them yourself (one possible way might be a bit of steel wire bent at one end, chucked in a dremel, then spun up inside the tube to scratch it - moving the wire in and out along the length of the tube).Frosted acrylic rod seems easier to obtain:https://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/plast...Of course these are all US based companies - I don't know where you are located, but if you are outside the United States, then you should be able to find something similar near you. Googling around would be your best course of action.

    This is a very interesting project; I like the way you used glue sticks for the optics.You can purchase acrylic rod that has bubbles in it, if you wanted to try something different. Mounting the LEDs would be more difficult, of course. Also available is frosted acrylic tubing; this is tubing that is frosted on the inside to scatter light. I don't know if it is available in small diameters, but it might be worth looking into.Other possibilities would be to sand the outside of clear acrylic rod or tubing for a similar effect. Or, it might be possible to use a "frosting spray" to give a similar look. Another possibility for clear tubing might be to use a homemade sandblaster (I think there's an instructable out there about it - it uses a small metal tube and a plastic soda bottle...

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    This is a very interesting project; I like the way you used glue sticks for the optics.You can purchase acrylic rod that has bubbles in it, if you wanted to try something different. Mounting the LEDs would be more difficult, of course. Also available is frosted acrylic tubing; this is tubing that is frosted on the inside to scatter light. I don't know if it is available in small diameters, but it might be worth looking into.Other possibilities would be to sand the outside of clear acrylic rod or tubing for a similar effect. Or, it might be possible to use a "frosting spray" to give a similar look. Another possibility for clear tubing might be to use a homemade sandblaster (I think there's an instructable out there about it - it uses a small metal tube and a plastic soda bottle) to scour the inside of the tubing.

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  • How to Build a Rear Bumper With Swing Out.

    That's a nice job you did on your bumper. I'm not in need of such a bumper on my Jeep (I ended up buying one because I needed the full-sized tire carrier more than anything), but your other tips on using "scrap wood templates" and the angle finding for bends, plus some of the other stuff, will make me take a copy of this for future review.I did have a question, though, about a tool I saw pictured - what are those small "tables" you are using for support for welding/cutting; you show them in a couple of pictures on step 2, with a sawzall and grinder laying on top (they've been painted yellow from over-spray it looks like, but in a later step you show one that looks brand new - so you must like them)?They look kinda handy. They also look kinda expensive, but I was curi...

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    That's a nice job you did on your bumper. I'm not in need of such a bumper on my Jeep (I ended up buying one because I needed the full-sized tire carrier more than anything), but your other tips on using "scrap wood templates" and the angle finding for bends, plus some of the other stuff, will make me take a copy of this for future review.I did have a question, though, about a tool I saw pictured - what are those small "tables" you are using for support for welding/cutting; you show them in a couple of pictures on step 2, with a sawzall and grinder laying on top (they've been painted yellow from over-spray it looks like, but in a later step you show one that looks brand new - so you must like them)?They look kinda handy. They also look kinda expensive, but I was curious on the brand and model?

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  • Clear Sink Clog - FAST, NO BUCKETS, NO CHEMICALS

    I've used the vinegar and baking soda method to great effect many times. First I pull the stopper, then dump about a cup of baking soda down the drain, then follow it with a healthy dose of white vinegar. Stuff a rag in it, and let it sit for 30 minutes or so. In the meantime, I boil some water in a teakettle. Then after the 30 minutes go by, I pull the rag out and pour the boiling water down the drain. Clears it completely every single time.I used to take the plumbing completely apart to get things really clean, but that gets old really fast. I'll only do that now if nothing else works (including snaking it). But usually, baking soda, vinegar, and boiling water do the trick.

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  • Speaker With Subwoofer From Broken Old Computer Speakers

    I really enjoyed this instructable; it shows remarkable ingenuity in fixing and repurposing broken electronics, which is always a good thing when possible. I was really impressed with the woodworking skills shown; you obviously have a knack and love for it, given the dedication to the project. I loved the use of buttons for the touch controls, that was very innovative and gives it a personal feel. Alternatives for those wanting to replicate this might be coins, brass thumbtacks, copper roofing nails, etc; all would look just as fantastic. Thanks for posting this!

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  • AndrewA167 commented on Intofx's instructable Conjuring Annabelle!10 months ago
    Conjuring Annabelle!

    Thank you for sharing this; I am amazed at your creative talent! Even the early clay sculptures were pretty scary looking (I'd find them pretty creepy just sitting out - especially if you got up in the middle of the night to do something). I can't say whether I'll ever make use of anything from this instructable, but I had a fun time reading it.

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  • Sanitary TIG Welding 101: Flask Fabrication

    First, thank you for this instructable; it was very enjoyable to read and look at the clear pictures, which were very helpful to learning. You included lots of great tips which could be applied to much more than just "making a flask", which I liked.Also, your last bit about selling the flasks on etsy was a nice and humorous addition; I don't have a need for a flask (as I don't find myself hanging around black-tie weddings often!), but if I did - I don't have a TIG welder nor the experience (nor a lathe) - so you providing that option is a nice touch...and for a handmade product your pricing is decent too!Regarding etsy (for others - you have to go to his instagram first, where there's a link to etsy - I was not able to find his direct link off his instructable profile), one th...

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    First, thank you for this instructable; it was very enjoyable to read and look at the clear pictures, which were very helpful to learning. You included lots of great tips which could be applied to much more than just "making a flask", which I liked.Also, your last bit about selling the flasks on etsy was a nice and humorous addition; I don't have a need for a flask (as I don't find myself hanging around black-tie weddings often!), but if I did - I don't have a TIG welder nor the experience (nor a lathe) - so you providing that option is a nice touch...and for a handmade product your pricing is decent too!Regarding etsy (for others - you have to go to his instagram first, where there's a link to etsy - I was not able to find his direct link off his instructable profile), one thing you might also offer is that copper chain mail scarf; as a hobbyist welder, that looks very useful (alright, I know you can't really do this, as handmaid chain mail is anything but inexpensive, and that single scarf probably took forever to make, even with the simplest link style - but I really liked it as a welding tool - the use possibilities are great to think about).Finally, the only other thing I have to offer is another possibility for "food grade" cutting oil (and coconut oil is an interesting alternative to try); it's actually something old-timers have recommended for over a century: bacon grease. The downside is that it will rapidly go rancid, but even rancid it is said (I've never tried it - as I said, I don't own a lathe) to impart a very pleasant smell to the shop (well - if you enjoy bacon of course - if you're a vegan or vegetarian, you probably won't have any bacon grease lying around anyhow).Anyhow - thanks again for the great instructable; I hope to be able to catch more of your future tutorials (I'm thinking about checking out your steam boat one)...

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  • Traditional Indonesian Barbecue (Ayam Bakar)

    This is a recipe I am definitely going to have to try; it looks so delicious! Thanks for posting it!

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  • AndrewA167 commented on AMbros Custom's instructable Super Strong Bar Clamp11 months ago
    Super Strong Bar Clamp

    This is a nice instructable showing how to make these, and it seems like you got your total costs down to something comparable to what we pay here in the USA at places like Harbor Freight (they are a low-cost tool importer, mainly from China).I think in part it has to do with "supply and demand" - here in the US we have a ton of people doing DIY and commercial stuff (particularly wood - but metal fabrication has a lot of people in it too), that importers and suppliers can sell these tools constantly. Due to heavy and constant use, they always need replacing, too. So the demand is very high, and even with all the costs associated with materials, fabrication, and shipping - the sheer number being purchased and resold still results in the tools being sold for a few US dollars eac...

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    This is a nice instructable showing how to make these, and it seems like you got your total costs down to something comparable to what we pay here in the USA at places like Harbor Freight (they are a low-cost tool importer, mainly from China).I think in part it has to do with "supply and demand" - here in the US we have a ton of people doing DIY and commercial stuff (particularly wood - but metal fabrication has a lot of people in it too), that importers and suppliers can sell these tools constantly. Due to heavy and constant use, they always need replacing, too. So the demand is very high, and even with all the costs associated with materials, fabrication, and shipping - the sheer number being purchased and resold still results in the tools being sold for a few US dollars each.Even the more expensive "name brands" we have (outside of discounters like Harbor Freight, they are usually sold at larger retailers) - such clamps aren't very expensive - maybe 2-3 times what something from Harbor Freight would cost (although you generally get something of better quality too).I think ultimately that has to play a part, that the demand (maybe simply due to a smaller population?) is much lower, and so the price thru quantity sold can't be lowered, even though such tools may be built "locally" to your country?Just a thought I guess. Your clamps you show do have a great look to them - they show good craftsmanship and care; you'd probably do well to sell them on Etsy or something as "hand-forged clamps" - though I'm not sure if shipping costs would get in the way!Thanks for great instructable!

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  • Convert a Full-suspension MTB in to a Go-anywhere Ebike

    I'm pretty sure this is the motor/drive system - note that this is for the bare-bones basic model - the display, battery (if you don't build one), etc are all extra cost:https://lunacycle.com/bafang-bbshd-1000w-middrive-...I'd budget out at least $1500.00 USD for the build to be on the safe side; that might be more than is needed, especially if you build your own battery (but be sure to price this out - building a battery is not for the faint of heart - it's a tedious process that can be very dangerous to boot).

    He's either making a joke about Samsung and their battery fires on their phones, or isn't comfortable with the idea of that many batteries for a home-built pack. To be honest, I'd be nervous too, as one slip could provide for an interesting fireworks display. Then again, I've worked with a large battery system in a home-built electric vehicle (48 volts using large UPS SLA batteries - something I helped a buddy with; we used a golf-cart differential and drive train).

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  • AndrewA167 commented on zimitt's instructable Spot Weld Plastic1 year ago
    Spot Weld Plastic

    If there's enough "meat" left on the flange or whatever you're trying to screw into, and you're willing to spend the money, I'd do this:1. Get some PVC pipe "glue" (solvent) and some scrap PVC bits, and mix 'em together to dissolve the PVC into a goopy cement of sorts. Do this in a small batch, you won't need much.2. Buy what's called a "nutsert" tool and nutserts - these are essentially "pop rivet nuts" - you put one in the tool, put it thru the hole, then squeeze the handles, and they are "crushed" against the material. You may want to try it first on a sacrificial piece of PVC similar in thickness to your flange; they are usually meant for metal, so I don't know how PVC would stand up to them.3. Assuming #2 goes ok, ream out the exist...

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    If there's enough "meat" left on the flange or whatever you're trying to screw into, and you're willing to spend the money, I'd do this:1. Get some PVC pipe "glue" (solvent) and some scrap PVC bits, and mix 'em together to dissolve the PVC into a goopy cement of sorts. Do this in a small batch, you won't need much.2. Buy what's called a "nutsert" tool and nutserts - these are essentially "pop rivet nuts" - you put one in the tool, put it thru the hole, then squeeze the handles, and they are "crushed" against the material. You may want to try it first on a sacrificial piece of PVC similar in thickness to your flange; they are usually meant for metal, so I don't know how PVC would stand up to them.3. Assuming #2 goes ok, ream out the existing holes cleanly, then mount a nutsert on your tool that'll fit into the holes properly. Then take some of the cement goop and smear it on the outside of the nutsert. Put it in the hole, and mount the nutsert as normal. Take a screw to fit the nutsert, smear some grease or vaseline on it, and thread it into the nutsert.4. Now - let the whole thing cure; give it a good 12-24 hours. After that, it should be bonded ok.5. You may need to widen the holes on the grate to fit your screws; whatever you do, make sure the nutserts you use are stainless steel or zinc coated or something like that, and the same for your screws. Also, be sure to grease the screws before you put them in. Since it's going to be in a wet environment, you don't want it to rust - or if it does, for it to rust together.The nutserts should be pretty well bonded and clamped to the PVC flange. and you won't have to worry about them stripping out or anything again.Yes, it's overkill, and it's not going to be cheap - but anything else you might try will probably fail in the same way over time anyhow. PVC is a pretty tricky material to work with.If you think you can get the JB Weld to bond, you can try that - do it similar to the nutsert thing, but grease your screws, and put them into the JB Weld as well, so when it cures, it is "pre-threaded" - easier than tapping threads.Good luck!

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  • AndrewA167 commented on Cam647's instructable Variable Lab Bench Power Supply! 1 year ago
    Variable Lab Bench Power Supply!

    Well, Neil did say "some" - but I have heard of PC PSUs that will work without a load on the 5V output, but they don't regulate the voltages well. Something to keep in mind if you need rock-solid voltage regulation depending on the load. But again, not all supplies are the same, but better to check and make sure before committing to using it on a project.

    This was a nice instructable, but I think a different kind of glue would be better to use in the long run. I'd be concerned about heat from the power supply and other parts possible softening the hot glue used. Maybe high-temp hot glue would be better, but best would be an acrylic-compatible adhesive, or an epoxy (if you make the case from acrylic of course).

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  • IoT Split-flap Weather Forecast Powered by XOD

    Decided to take a look - found this material on Amazon; I'm sure it could be found thru other suppliers: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075GPGPT1/Each piece is the size of a business card, so it's perfect (I think) for a split-flap display, if each is split in half and placed in the "longwise/vertical" orientation (maybe not exactly fit for your project - I just mean in general). 50 pieces is also fairly cheap.Cutting the pieces in half could be done with a pair of straight metal snips, or with a paper sheet cutter, or even a stout box cutter and straightedge to score it (then "snap" it over the edge of something). The pieces could then be epoxied or super-glued to thin metal wire for the "tabs" to fit in the disks.

    You forgot to add your time in; just for the assembly of the printed flaps had to be considerable. For something custom like this, $1000.00 would not be unreasonable - but I doubt anyone would pay it.The time to make those flaps is the real arduous piece to get past; it's where the most cost savings in money and time could be had, if something simpler could be used to make them. My best guess would be to laser engrave on thin material similar to "name tag" or "dog tag" plastics - which have a color coating over the top of a white base plastic. With the power of the laser set just right, it blasts away the color coating, leaving the white color underneath. It can even be engraved mechanically using a CNC router. I just don't know what the cost of the material is, or i...

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    You forgot to add your time in; just for the assembly of the printed flaps had to be considerable. For something custom like this, $1000.00 would not be unreasonable - but I doubt anyone would pay it.The time to make those flaps is the real arduous piece to get past; it's where the most cost savings in money and time could be had, if something simpler could be used to make them. My best guess would be to laser engrave on thin material similar to "name tag" or "dog tag" plastics - which have a color coating over the top of a white base plastic. With the power of the laser set just right, it blasts away the color coating, leaving the white color underneath. It can even be engraved mechanically using a CNC router. I just don't know what the cost of the material is, or if it comes in a thin enough profile to be used for flaps.All in all though, great - if tedious to assemble - project!

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  • AndrewA167 commented on zimitt's instructable Spot Weld Plastic1 year ago
    Spot Weld Plastic

    This was a nice instructable - thank you for posting it! It should be noted that the kinds of plastics this technique works best on are so-called "thermoplastics", because they are formed and molded using heat. The polyethylene family (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyethylene) is best known for this, and consists of multiple types, HDPE being one of the very popularly known ones.There are other kinds of thermoplastics available too which can be heat welded and formed; but as always, be sure to research safety concerns before attempting unknown plastics.One type of plastic that extra care should be taken when heating it is PVC. While it can be softened and formed using heat, it should be done outside or in a well-ventilated area. The greatest danger is if it burns, because c...

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    This was a nice instructable - thank you for posting it! It should be noted that the kinds of plastics this technique works best on are so-called "thermoplastics", because they are formed and molded using heat. The polyethylene family (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyethylene) is best known for this, and consists of multiple types, HDPE being one of the very popularly known ones.There are other kinds of thermoplastics available too which can be heat welded and formed; but as always, be sure to research safety concerns before attempting unknown plastics.One type of plastic that extra care should be taken when heating it is PVC. While it can be softened and formed using heat, it should be done outside or in a well-ventilated area. The greatest danger is if it burns, because chlorine gas (among other bad compounds) can be formed, which is very poisonous. In the "instructable" and "maker" worlds, it is generally known that you should never cut PVC in a laser cutter for this reason (and most laser cutter manufacturers put this warning very clearly in their safety literature).Ultimately, before attempting any kind of bonding operation with plastic, research and knowing what plastic you are using is key.When attempting to use a glue or solvent to bond plastics, research can make the difference between wasted time and a successful bond (certain plastics, especially polyethylene and polypropylene, are almost impossible to bond with glue or solvents due to their chemical nature which gives them their useful properties).When attempting to bond a plastic using a heat source, if you don't know what the plastic is, use extreme caution. Also note that even if a plastic is marked as say "HDPE", each manufacturer can and does add different kinds of products to the plastics to give it different capabilities (and there's no easy way to know who manufactured each plastic unless you purchase it direct from the manufacturer). These differences can make two seemingly "identical" plastics incompatible in certain ways - whether bonding by chemical or heat. Experimentation, if possible, should be done to determine what works best.

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  • AndrewA167 commented on Waldemar Sha's instructable TUBE CHOPPER 3000!!!1 year ago
    TUBE CHOPPER 3000!!!

    Version N should probably square or round-off the upper points of those brackets you made; those things look hella sharp! Interesting project, though; I'll have to keep in mind the tip about getting blown inner tubes from a bike shop - I need one for some scrap rubber, but I don't want to take home a barrel-full or anything like that! Can't wait to see your future projects using tubes!

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  • AndrewA167 commented on MaxPower1977's instructable Best Smoked BBQ Pork Ribs 1 year ago
    Best Smoked BBQ Pork Ribs

    This is a nice instructable, and it's inspiring me to try my hand again at making ribs on my smoker. I have a Traeger pellet smoker/grill, and I've made some nice BBQ with it using an apple and mesquite pellet blend, but I've never had good luck with ribs. I think this is more due to my skills than the smoker, as I've had great luck with larger cuts (pork shoulder, brisket, and pork belly all have turned out wonderful). But this instructable gives me hope. Thank you for the great presentation!

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  • AndrewA167 commented on TizzDoggo's instructable SKY CAM an Aerial Camera Solution 1 year ago
    SKY CAM an Aerial Camera Solution

    Note to the author and others who are thinking about replicating this project:The code behind this project is suspect; in the course of copying and re-formatting the code, I found several inconsistencies and probable errors which leads me to recommend an audit and refactor before usage in anything more than a prototype.Issues found consisted of:1. Numerous and copious use of "goto" statements - this is bad no matter how you look at it, as it leads to (and this code is a good example of) "spaghetti code".2. Numerous examples of nested gotos and gosubs intermixed; this can lead to stack overflow issues if or when a return is not completed for it's complementary gosub, which could cause the system to go into an unknown state during operation.3. Little to no rhyme or rea...

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    Note to the author and others who are thinking about replicating this project:The code behind this project is suspect; in the course of copying and re-formatting the code, I found several inconsistencies and probable errors which leads me to recommend an audit and refactor before usage in anything more than a prototype.Issues found consisted of:1. Numerous and copious use of "goto" statements - this is bad no matter how you look at it, as it leads to (and this code is a good example of) "spaghetti code".2. Numerous examples of nested gotos and gosubs intermixed; this can lead to stack overflow issues if or when a return is not completed for it's complementary gosub, which could cause the system to go into an unknown state during operation.3. Little to no rhyme or reason behind sub/routine label names or variable naming.4. No comments or other code documentation, which will make any refactoring or maintenance of code much more difficult.Many, most - possible all - of the above issues may be caused by a poorly implemented code generation system. I only say this because the code looks generated in some fashion, due to the weird naming conventions for the labels, and for the structure of the code itself. While I don't believe the author is a software engineer, even someone with only the basics of knowledge of coding wouldn't do some of the things I saw in the code (such as double labels for routines, when a single label would suffice, or a labeled routine that would goto another labeled routine immediately below it, or gotos into a routine that has a final return statement, but seemingly without a corresponding gosub in the execution chain - though given the convoluted nature of this code, I could have missed something here).Also, note that there seems to be three separate pieces of code - in order:1. Code that controls the platform (the camera rig on the cable).2. Code for the remote controller box/transmitter.3. Some short piece of "testing" code (not sure what that's for).

    This is a really great project and I enjoyed reading about it; when I first saw it (in an email instructables sent me), I almost passed it up, thinking "well, this isn't something I'd use" - but something told me to open it up and take a look, and I'm glad I did.You've created an extremely well thought out and competitive system comparable to professional rigs, and at the same time limited expense; while in your design you note that the cost seemed high for a prototype, and that manufacturing at scale could lower the costs, even at your prototype's cost (minus your time and expense), it's still far cheaper than retail costs of even the "hobbyist" system you mention.I note that you chose a couple of options that would likely make for better manufacturing, but if someo...

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    This is a really great project and I enjoyed reading about it; when I first saw it (in an email instructables sent me), I almost passed it up, thinking "well, this isn't something I'd use" - but something told me to open it up and take a look, and I'm glad I did.You've created an extremely well thought out and competitive system comparable to professional rigs, and at the same time limited expense; while in your design you note that the cost seemed high for a prototype, and that manufacturing at scale could lower the costs, even at your prototype's cost (minus your time and expense), it's still far cheaper than retail costs of even the "hobbyist" system you mention.I note that you chose a couple of options that would likely make for better manufacturing, but if someone were going to replicate this on their own, I would argue for alternatives:1. Choice of microcontroller - I would personally have gone with an Arduino for prototyping, then switch to a Nano, a Pro, or just a bare ATMega328 for the final product. All are very easy to work with, and can leverage a vast level of available source code and community help to achieve the implementation.2. In addition to the above, I would have selected to go with a pre-built motor controller, likely something like an RC ESC; the Arduino has an available Servo library that makes interfacing to RC devices simple, plus you'd likely want to add a controllable camera gimbal mount (I didn't notice one?) - and such a mount could be easily done with RC servos as well. Using RC devices also eliminates a bunch of custom electronics, which would likely make for a more robust system, as well as being easily replaceable in the field.3. Camera mounting, as noted, could be done with an RC servo-based rig, but another option would be a brushless-motor stabilized gimbal as is available for drones; these tend to be more complex to interface with, but since most drone controllers are open-source (and more than a few Arduino compatible), that code could be lifted from such projects for integration into a cable camera system.Again, the above would be best for "one off" or prototype implementations of this system, but parts could be used in a manufactured system as well; if one were going for lowering the costs, then a PIC microcontroller would probably be the better solution - but RC parts should always be considered even for a "commercial" solution, because of their inherent ease of interfacing, robustness and their wide availability out in the field (just hop down to your local hobby shop).I wasn't able to locate the cable you used on Amazon here in the US - but it seemed very similar to reflective paracord, which comes in a variety of lengths and colors. Such cord could easily hold the weight of this system.Thank you for sharing your experience and project; even though I may never have a use for such a system, I enjoyed reading about it and seeing the effort and thinking that went behind it, and I found some interesting takeaways I could incorporate into my own future projects.

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  • How to Make a Polished Aluminum Foil Ball

    Thanks for posting this instructable; I found it somewhat inspiring - maybe someday I might try it myself.I wonder if you had a power hammer or some other similar mechanical means if you could make it smaller? It would probably be more difficult to work that way; eventually you'd just end up with something like a large ball bearing and not as interesting to look at.Something you or someone else might try is to give the final ball a coat of spray-on clear lacquer or polyurethane. You can also find transparent acrylic colors that would probably work well too. These would all seal the cracks, but still allow them to show, while protecting the shiny finish (aluminum oxidizes and gets dull over time - that's why polish for it exists).Anyhow, it looks like a fun and low cost project; thanks a...

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    Thanks for posting this instructable; I found it somewhat inspiring - maybe someday I might try it myself.I wonder if you had a power hammer or some other similar mechanical means if you could make it smaller? It would probably be more difficult to work that way; eventually you'd just end up with something like a large ball bearing and not as interesting to look at.Something you or someone else might try is to give the final ball a coat of spray-on clear lacquer or polyurethane. You can also find transparent acrylic colors that would probably work well too. These would all seal the cracks, but still allow them to show, while protecting the shiny finish (aluminum oxidizes and gets dull over time - that's why polish for it exists).Anyhow, it looks like a fun and low cost project; thanks again!

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  • AndrewA167 commented on i.hate.karl.kilburn's instructable DIY Micro Camper1 year ago
    DIY Micro Camper

    I like this build - but at the same time, it seemed overbuilt - like the 2x3 construction and such reminded me of stick-frame house construction. I think it could be done slightly differently, and be a bit more lightweight (to increase what you can haul in it), and perhaps give some extra room. The downside is that it might make for more expensive construction.One person mentioned using steel studs to save weight. That's certainly an option - but I bet you could also do aluminum square tube for not a lot of extra money. Perhaps a combo of square tube, angle, and maybe some channel could do it. Assembly would be a question, though - cheapest way would be to pop-rivet everything, or possible epoxy, then screw on the panels to tie it together. Another way would be to use aluminum brazing r...

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    I like this build - but at the same time, it seemed overbuilt - like the 2x3 construction and such reminded me of stick-frame house construction. I think it could be done slightly differently, and be a bit more lightweight (to increase what you can haul in it), and perhaps give some extra room. The downside is that it might make for more expensive construction.One person mentioned using steel studs to save weight. That's certainly an option - but I bet you could also do aluminum square tube for not a lot of extra money. Perhaps a combo of square tube, angle, and maybe some channel could do it. Assembly would be a question, though - cheapest way would be to pop-rivet everything, or possible epoxy, then screw on the panels to tie it together. Another way would be to use aluminum brazing rod to "braze/solder" the pieces. If you had the gear, you could weld the aluminum, but that's way outside the DIY scope for most I think. Paneling could be some 1/8 inch HDPE sheeting, with insulation panels between.I like the suggestions other people gave as well.Something that I did wonder about, though - your initial picture shows a box that appears removable from the trailer (held on with turnbuckle tie-downs), but the instructable build is attached to the trailer. I thought the idea of a removable box (to give you the option of using the trailer for other things when you're not camping) was pretty cool.Oh - one other thing to consider: A top vent can be a nice option to have, to draw out hot inside air, and draw in cooler air from the outside. Most are transluscent or smoked, and so allow for outside light to filter in, even when closed. They can be found via RV parts suppliers and vendors, and don't cost too much. They typically run on 12 volts. You often see them on campershells and other commercially built things of that nature.

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  • Cheap DADO Stack That Works and Is 'realitively' Safe for a Cheap Table Saw

    This is an interesting trick - I don't have a table saw, but I will keep it in mind for the future if I ever get one. Last time I used one was back in high school 25+ years ago (and we had a proper dado blade set, too).You mentioned that using washers wasn't possible due to thickness. Today I was looking up "shim washers" and managed to find some from "small parts" - but they weren't very large, and probably wouldn't work for this purpose. But they were very thin (0.001" and larger). I was looking into them for bevel gear location purposes (to shim bevel gears properly for meshing).But maybe you might be able to find larger ones? Or, maybe you could get a sheet metal shop to make some from some thin steel sheet? Though it might be cheaper at that point to buy a ...

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    This is an interesting trick - I don't have a table saw, but I will keep it in mind for the future if I ever get one. Last time I used one was back in high school 25+ years ago (and we had a proper dado blade set, too).You mentioned that using washers wasn't possible due to thickness. Today I was looking up "shim washers" and managed to find some from "small parts" - but they weren't very large, and probably wouldn't work for this purpose. But they were very thin (0.001" and larger). I was looking into them for bevel gear location purposes (to shim bevel gears properly for meshing).But maybe you might be able to find larger ones? Or, maybe you could get a sheet metal shop to make some from some thin steel sheet? Though it might be cheaper at that point to buy a dado blade set...lol.Thanks for the instructable - it was fun to read and informative, too!

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  • AndrewA167 commented on DIY KING 00's instructable DIY Bladeless Fan From Scratch1 year ago
    DIY Bladeless Fan From Scratch

    This is an interesting project, but it has one glaring error, that I hope others don't repeat:Please - don't use power tools like a drill or a hole saw on material that is being held by your other hand - clamp the material down, and keep both hands as far away as possible from the working surface of the material.Had that hole saw slipped, or the material broke, or any number of other potential outcomes occurred, a serious and possibly irreversible injury could have occurred.I know this because it has happened to me: I was using a right angle grinder with a cutoff blade to cut a piece of metal; even though I was wearing gloves, I was improperly handling the tool and the blade caught - in an instant it shattered, part of it catching the back of my knuckles. Despite the glove, it cut deep....

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    This is an interesting project, but it has one glaring error, that I hope others don't repeat:Please - don't use power tools like a drill or a hole saw on material that is being held by your other hand - clamp the material down, and keep both hands as far away as possible from the working surface of the material.Had that hole saw slipped, or the material broke, or any number of other potential outcomes occurred, a serious and possibly irreversible injury could have occurred.I know this because it has happened to me: I was using a right angle grinder with a cutoff blade to cut a piece of metal; even though I was wearing gloves, I was improperly handling the tool and the blade caught - in an instant it shattered, part of it catching the back of my knuckles. Despite the glove, it cut deep. Fortunately I still had movement in my fingers, and the quick attention of my friend helped (honestly, I should have gone to the ER). To this day I have the scars to remind me of that episode (it was only blind luck I didn't get a piece to my face).I was stupid; despite the fact that I normally would use PPE (personal protection equipment) in such a situation, my complacency got the better of my that day. I do my best now not to let such a situation happen again.

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  • AndrewA167 followed SteveMann1 year ago
      • Augmented Reality Eyeglass With Thermal Vision: Build Your Own Low-cost Raspberry Pi EyeTap
      • Vodka for Safer Driving
      • AR (Augmented Reality) Desk
  • Augmented Reality Eyeglass With Thermal Vision: Build Your Own Low-cost Raspberry Pi EyeTap

    Steve - I've been following your work since like, forever; it's nice to see you sharing this info here as an instructable. Thank you!

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  • AndrewA167 commented on JON-A-TRON's instructable Sheet Metal Fireplace1 year ago
    Sheet Metal Fireplace

    Stainless steel does not contain zinc. Galvanized steel -does- have a zinc coating. They are two different kinds of material.When heated, galvanized steel can give off fumes from the zinc (in the form of zinc oxide). However, for that to happen, the zinc needs to be near its boiling point, which is 1663° F.A regular wood fire will not get this hot. It might get hot enough to cause the coating to delaminate from the steel (and then for the steel to rust), but it won't vaporize the coating.Welding, on the other hand, is a different thing: When welding, the temperature of the steel can and will get way hotter than 1663° F, because welding involved the melting and fusing of the steel, which occurs at around 2500° F - much higher than that of zinc.Which is why when welding galvan...

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    Stainless steel does not contain zinc. Galvanized steel -does- have a zinc coating. They are two different kinds of material.When heated, galvanized steel can give off fumes from the zinc (in the form of zinc oxide). However, for that to happen, the zinc needs to be near its boiling point, which is 1663° F.A regular wood fire will not get this hot. It might get hot enough to cause the coating to delaminate from the steel (and then for the steel to rust), but it won't vaporize the coating.Welding, on the other hand, is a different thing: When welding, the temperature of the steel can and will get way hotter than 1663° F, because welding involved the melting and fusing of the steel, which occurs at around 2500° F - much higher than that of zinc.Which is why when welding galvanized steel, you need to do it outdoors or in a well ventilated area, and avoid the resulting fumes.If you are still concerned about fumes, and don't want to use stainless steel, then avoid using cheaper galvanized sheet steel, and just use ordinary sheet steel instead. Prior to assembly, give all parts a coating with high-temperature paint (barbeque paint or engine paint, or other similar high-temp paints are best); leave parts directly exposed to flame unpainted, and don't expose the metal to excess moisture.

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  • 3D Printed Laser XY Scanner - Draw, Cut, Engrave, or Scan

    This is one of the better write-ups on DIY'ing a laser galvo:http://people.ece.cornell.edu/land/courses/ece4760...Google "DIY laser galvo" and similar, and you can find more out there. In short, it isn't easy to build one, at least to gain the high-speeds needed for animation and graphics reproduction. The difficult part is the high-speed servoing and sensing of position.The two main ways this is accomplished in a "homebrew" manner tend to be capacitive sensing using a capacitive quadrant encoder, or optically, using a gradient optical disc (which can be made via printing a radial grey scale on overhead transparency plastic in a printer), plus a photo-transistor or similar.To gain the high speeds, your galvo needs to have as little mass as possible; a coreless windin...

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    This is one of the better write-ups on DIY'ing a laser galvo:http://people.ece.cornell.edu/land/courses/ece4760...Google "DIY laser galvo" and similar, and you can find more out there. In short, it isn't easy to build one, at least to gain the high-speeds needed for animation and graphics reproduction. The difficult part is the high-speed servoing and sensing of position.The two main ways this is accomplished in a "homebrew" manner tend to be capacitive sensing using a capacitive quadrant encoder, or optically, using a gradient optical disc (which can be made via printing a radial grey scale on overhead transparency plastic in a printer), plus a photo-transistor or similar.To gain the high speeds, your galvo needs to have as little mass as possible; a coreless winding is best. You'll also need dampening, similar to the galvos in analog meters which use small springs. Plus low friction bearings. Then the driver circuitry, of course...It gets difficult really quickly, which you'll notice as you read about similar serious DIY efforts like the write-up link above.

    I also wanted to post this link, which was referenced off my earlier link on DIY galvos:http://elm-chan.org/works/vlp/report_e.htmlIt's pretty much the best work I've seen - approaching that of pro-level manufactured galvos. Whether something like that can be simplified or somehow distilled into an instructable is debatable, as the level of fabrication expertise needed is pretty high.

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  • Anti-Gravity Workstation (with Standing Option)

    The big problem (well, expensive $$$ problem) is getting such a dome made for back-projection; it would likely need to be made from acrylic or polycarbonate, and both are going to be expensive out the gate (if you've ever priced clear plastic domes, you'll know what I mean). Then add on top of that whatever is needed to make it work for rear projection, to have such a "one-off" made would probably blow any normal budget.I don't think you could homebrew it either - you'd need to make a custom and large vacu-form system, then figure out how to do the back-projection process; I doubt that it's as simple as "frosting" the surface (say with using a sand or bead blaster or similar) - but maybe it is?If you can figure out how to make such plastic capable of back projection,...

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    The big problem (well, expensive $$$ problem) is getting such a dome made for back-projection; it would likely need to be made from acrylic or polycarbonate, and both are going to be expensive out the gate (if you've ever priced clear plastic domes, you'll know what I mean). Then add on top of that whatever is needed to make it work for rear projection, to have such a "one-off" made would probably blow any normal budget.I don't think you could homebrew it either - you'd need to make a custom and large vacu-form system, then figure out how to do the back-projection process; I doubt that it's as simple as "frosting" the surface (say with using a sand or bead blaster or similar) - but maybe it is?If you can figure out how to make such plastic capable of back projection, then a decent compromise might entail doing something like you are currently doing, but make it wider - some crazy aspect ratio (32:10 or something like that), then "bend" the projection surface into a curve - almost like a personal Cinerama screen.For that matter, you might be able to get away with your current system doing this; if you went with a higher-res projector (4k) and software-based warping using custom shaders (again, like is done for HMDs - not for individual eyes, but singular) - it would probably (maybe?) work. Something to play with, I guess.

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  • Anti-Gravity Workstation (with Standing Option)

    I like what you did here; it's something I've considered doing myself, but never got around to (plus, there's things I do that I have to have a real desk for, unfortunately).You might be interested in something similar that was done a while back as part of NASA's "spinoff" program:https://spinoff.nasa.gov/spinoff1998/ch5.htm1998! It was called the "Flogiston Flostation" - it was designed as a virtual reality platform. The chair was custom designed as an "anti-gravity" chair (there wasn't anything like it on the market back then) - using ergonomic data measurements of the human pose when relaxed in micro-gravity (like in space). Computer imagery was projected on the outside of a "dome" that went over your head. IIRC, the image from the projector wa...

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    I like what you did here; it's something I've considered doing myself, but never got around to (plus, there's things I do that I have to have a real desk for, unfortunately).You might be interested in something similar that was done a while back as part of NASA's "spinoff" program:https://spinoff.nasa.gov/spinoff1998/ch5.htm1998! It was called the "Flogiston Flostation" - it was designed as a virtual reality platform. The chair was custom designed as an "anti-gravity" chair (there wasn't anything like it on the market back then) - using ergonomic data measurements of the human pose when relaxed in micro-gravity (like in space). Computer imagery was projected on the outside of a "dome" that went over your head. IIRC, the image from the projector was "spherically warped" by a lens (or maybe pre-computed - similar to the barrel warping done for current VR headsets like the Oculus Rift, or old ones like the LEEP system), so that it would flatten out by the curvature of the projection dome. Stereo speakers and base shakers allowed for further immersion.When it was first being developed, it was really rough; somewhere I have a copy of his old development website before Mr. Park got funding - images of the system with his projector balanced on a ladder in his living room. He had this idea that there'd be special "arcades" where you'd go and pay to use these systems, and the chairs would even be mounted on motion bases to further immerse participants.The basic system was demo'ed at (IIRC) CES - I think at a booth for Intel or something like that. He also supposedly sold custom built versions with all high-end equipment for the time (computer, audio, projector, etc), and outfitted the chair in leather.People who used the system reported that after a while, you felt disconnected from your body - a "free floating head" vantage point. Relaxation and meditation were other themes being touted as uses for the chair.Sadly, it was right at the tail end of the first VR wave, which was already in it's death throes, as the tech just wasn't ready for it, and people were increasingly being drawn to the internet and the web.

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  • AndrewA167 commented on Left-field Designs's instructable DIY Self-Locking Nut1 year ago
    DIY Self-Locking Nut

    3366carlos probably owns a Ford 5.4L Triton...

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  • AndrewA167 commented on 4DIYers's instructable How to Patch a Rusted Lawn Mower Deck1 year ago
    How to Patch a Rusted Lawn Mower Deck

    Sometimes you can still blow thru; in that case, just continue to make essentially small welds - like a tack weld, but with a bit more penetration.Jump them around, again to keep the heat from building up in any one area. Keep doing this all over the seam, as "randomly" and spaced as possible, until the entire seam is filled in. Then go back and grind with the flap wheel. Fill in any voids or valleys as needed and re-grind.Doing this is a test of patience, it is not fast, and very tedious. But for very thin sheet metal (thinner than a mower deck, for instance), it is almost the only way you can do it short of a TIG.

    I have to say that's an impressive job you did with a small 120V flux-core welder; your beads are about as perfect as one can get with such a machine. And your skill at forming the metal was spot-on. This was a great instructable that shows what can be done with a bit of prep and a lot of patience.I know from experience that what you did here wasn't something that took 30 minutes - this kind of job requires planning, thought, trial, error, fitment, grinding, pounding, sometimes a bit of cussing, a few beer breaks in the shade - but when done (likely more than a few hours later) - it's all worth it; that deck looks excellent.

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  • AndrewA167 commented on vishnumaiea's instructable RC Four Wheel Ground Rover1 year ago
    RC Four Wheel Ground Rover

    This is an amazing project and shows a great amount of creativity in using available resources; literally a robot built from mostly scrap! I like how you laid out and routed the PCB traces; for a one-off project, it looks very professional. While a "printed" PCB might look better, what you did more than works properly for the job, and going that extra step isn't needed unless you are going to build and sell the device (or for learning). Something to keep in mind for the future: While for this lightweight rover/robot it isn't a big deal, as you add weight or make the robot bigger, putting the wheels directly on the gear motor shafts generally isn't recommended unless the gearboxes are designed for this. The extra side (radial) load of the shaft on the bearings can cause rapid e...

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    This is an amazing project and shows a great amount of creativity in using available resources; literally a robot built from mostly scrap! I like how you laid out and routed the PCB traces; for a one-off project, it looks very professional. While a "printed" PCB might look better, what you did more than works properly for the job, and going that extra step isn't needed unless you are going to build and sell the device (or for learning). Something to keep in mind for the future: While for this lightweight rover/robot it isn't a big deal, as you add weight or make the robot bigger, putting the wheels directly on the gear motor shafts generally isn't recommended unless the gearboxes are designed for this. The extra side (radial) load of the shaft on the bearings can cause rapid excess wear and premature failure of the gearbox and/or bearings.The best way to prevent this is to isolate the gear motor from the wheel/axle supports by putting the wheels on a separate axle with it's own supporting bearings, then couple the gear motor to the wheels using gears, belts, chains, or simple shaft couplers (a piece of rubber tubing can work fine). This way, the wheels and axles are supported separately and do not present the side-loading on the motor gearboxes.Some gear motors are designed for this kind of load, but they are typically only found on things like wheelchair motors and similar high-load applications, where additional coupling would be prohibitive (space reasons mainly). Such gearboxes are designed with additional bearings and bearing surfaces to take the additional load without causing damage.All-in-all though, this was a very nice project for future exploration and expansion; thank you for sharing it!

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  • Carter's Lasercut Tank - StuG III Ausf. F

    Small hobby laser cutters can be found on Ebay and Amazon fairly cheaply (approx $500.00 USD). They are made in China, and usually have a 40 watt laser tube in them. They come with everything you need to start cutting. However, the software for them stinks. Once you get past playing with the software, you might want to move into modding the laser cutter. There are a few tutorials out there on how to do it. Most use either a parallel port CNC board (and either Mach3 or LinuxCNC software), or a GRBL Arduino CNC controller board. Both are relatively cheap to find - again, on Ebay or Amazon. It isn't a mod for the inexperienced or faint of heart, but you are unlikely to screw anything up.Another low-cost option is the 40w Blacktooth Laser Cutter from BuildYourCNC. It comes as a kit (so you ...

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    Small hobby laser cutters can be found on Ebay and Amazon fairly cheaply (approx $500.00 USD). They are made in China, and usually have a 40 watt laser tube in them. They come with everything you need to start cutting. However, the software for them stinks. Once you get past playing with the software, you might want to move into modding the laser cutter. There are a few tutorials out there on how to do it. Most use either a parallel port CNC board (and either Mach3 or LinuxCNC software), or a GRBL Arduino CNC controller board. Both are relatively cheap to find - again, on Ebay or Amazon. It isn't a mod for the inexperienced or faint of heart, but you are unlikely to screw anything up.Another low-cost option is the 40w Blacktooth Laser Cutter from BuildYourCNC. It comes as a kit (so you have to put it together), but you end up with a larger bed (cutting area) than the cheap Chinese machines.Whichever route you decide to go, make sure you have a way to vent the fumes outside; you may also want to invest in a compressor and compressed air cutting head (it's used to blow away smoke and flames as the machine works). Which reminds me: NEVER LEAVE A LASER CUTTER RUNNING UNATTENDED. Remember, they work by essentially "burning" (vaporizing) thru materials; the materials can catch fire. If you don't baby sit the cutting, you can say goodbye to your house if you aren't careful. Also, never cut PVC on a laser cutter - the chlorine in the PVC can turn into phosgene gas - which is deadly in the most minute of concentrations.Lastly, if you want your laser tube to last the longest (ie - get the maximum number of hours out of it), you need to use it often. Don't let it sit around for long periods between uses. The reason for this is that as you use the tube, the gases inside are circulated via convection, and are also broken down by the high voltage running the tube. The breakdown components of the gases "contaminate" the tube. The more it is contaminated, the less likely it will start up again. But the manufacturer of the tube has a way around this: There is a special "getter" electrode inside the tube (made of some rare metal I think) which, as the tube runs and the gases circulate, they pass over this and "reform" in a catalytic reaction - but this only happens as long as the tube is run. If you run the tube, and let it sit for a long period of time, the depleted gases never pass by the getter, and over time, this lowers the number of hours you can effectively get out of the tube. I know it doesn't sound logical, but that's the truth.

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  • Making a Powerful Generator From a Blender Motor DIY

    Actually, that's not true.AC induction motors, if they have some residual magnetism left in the rotor, when spun - can generate electricity:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Induction_generatorhttp://www.redrok.com/cimtext.pdfI have an induction gear motor out of an old photo copier; it generates electricity just fine when the output shaft is turned.

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  • AndrewA167 commented on bekathwia's instructable 3 Beginner Arduino Mistakes1 year ago
    3 Beginner Arduino Mistakes

    I want to add here that even for small development like embedded programming of 8-bit microcontrollers, using git or some other version control system should be embraced for projects; that way, you can always branch and/or roll back as needed.

    Making a flow chart is a good practice to get into; it should also be noted that at times sub-processes in a flow chart can be represented as referencing another flow chart (can be done using any of the symbols in flow charting, as long as the symbol represents what that sub-process is for). Doing this can keep the flow chart(s) easier to understand and maintain.Also, when flow charting processes, it is important to remember any "soft processes" - that is, capturing the inputs and outputs of processes which happen external to the process on the computer (usually things humans do, but which aren't recognized as part of the process - these soft actions typically occur organically without anyone realizing it). These may or may not be able to be identified prior to development, bu...

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    Making a flow chart is a good practice to get into; it should also be noted that at times sub-processes in a flow chart can be represented as referencing another flow chart (can be done using any of the symbols in flow charting, as long as the symbol represents what that sub-process is for). Doing this can keep the flow chart(s) easier to understand and maintain.Also, when flow charting processes, it is important to remember any "soft processes" - that is, capturing the inputs and outputs of processes which happen external to the process on the computer (usually things humans do, but which aren't recognized as part of the process - these soft actions typically occur organically without anyone realizing it). These may or may not be able to be identified prior to development, but if they can be, then they should be noted.When flow charting processes, the flow of the chart should follow some standard; top to bottom, left to right are common "flows". I have also found that flow charts which are "balanced" - that is, have relatively equal left and right (or top/bottom) paths or flows, tend to be well designed, easy to maintain, and represent the process well. Note that this isn't an absolute; sometimes a flow won't be balanced, and it may not need to be.When lines of a flow chart overlap or cross over one another, it's almost a sure sign that the process flow needs to be refactored; you are literally looking at a graphical representation of "spaghetti code" - if you see this, try to fix it or simplify the process immediately.Lastly, in regards to flow charts, there are more than one form of flow charting styles, and each has its own place. Learn about all the styles and representations; some can be used to represent concurrent processes which feed data back and forth between parallel process flows, for instance.Finally - when it comes to commenting, it is best practice to follow some form of "doxygen" standard, so that the comments can be run thru a translator, and the code can form its own documentation. C/C++ has its own form, other languages have theirs. You don't need to follow all of the intricacies for embedded development like you would for larger projects, but adding in the "syntactical sugar" can be helpful for maintenance further on down the line. Comments should also be worded so that they convey the what and the why, not the how (the code itself shows the "how").

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  • AndrewA167 commented on Nikus's instructable Arduino Drone | Quadcopter (3D Printed)2 years ago
    Arduino Drone | Quadcopter (3D Printed)

    I'm going to have to throw my hat in the ring and disagree with this as well as it pertains to the United States (I can't reliably address other areas); addressing the points:1. This drone would not be illegal to fly in the USA, provided it meets the FAA requirements for drones (https://www.faa.gov/uas/) - note the recent court ruling (May 19, 2017 - U.S. Court of Appeals for the District of Columbia Circuit in Taylor v. Huerta). The summary here basically reads "Owners of model aircraft which are operated in compliance with section 336 are not required to register. Owners of all other small unmanned aircraft, including newly-purchased unmanned aircraft not operated exclusively in compliance with section 336, remain subject to the registration requirement."Section 336 basical...

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    I'm going to have to throw my hat in the ring and disagree with this as well as it pertains to the United States (I can't reliably address other areas); addressing the points:1. This drone would not be illegal to fly in the USA, provided it meets the FAA requirements for drones (https://www.faa.gov/uas/) - note the recent court ruling (May 19, 2017 - U.S. Court of Appeals for the District of Columbia Circuit in Taylor v. Huerta). The summary here basically reads "Owners of model aircraft which are operated in compliance with section 336 are not required to register. Owners of all other small unmanned aircraft, including newly-purchased unmanned aircraft not operated exclusively in compliance with section 336, remain subject to the registration requirement."Section 336 basically says that if the model aircraft (drone) is for hobby or recreational purposes (ie - non-commercial usage), and weighs less than 55 lbs (~25 kg), and does not interfere with actual full-size aircraft, and is flown in compliance with a community-based national organization (like the Academy of Model Aeronautics here in the USA) - you're a-ok to fly.Also - if you fly near an airport (within 5 miles), you have to give notice to the tower/airport in some particular manner (read it for clarification).But basically, that's it. The part about being in compliance with an organization like the AMA (essentially being a member and following their bylaws) is there for the insurance purposes the AMA provides, along with other guidance and such. The AMA rules are basically similar, though (http://www.modelaircraft.org/files/105.pdf). Getting a membership with them is cheap insurance (literally) in the event of a problem, futhermore, it opens up the ability to use their various flying fields around the country.Section 336, though, is much better (and you can thank orgs like the AMA for that, which helped to fight for this) than what the FAA had before. IIRC, section 336 was the original wording, then the FAA changed it, required registration (not of the drone - of yourself - because you could only get a single number for all of your drones!) if the weight of it went over a certain amount (half a kilogram IIRC), and more. This was challenged, fought, and ultimately found untenable by the courts and struck down.2. The Arduino is based on the Atmel ATMega328P microcontroller - it is a part of a family of microcontroller produced by that company (the ATMega family). It is not "hobbyist grade" - it is a commercially available microcontroller family used in many commercial and medical-grade products (I know for a fact that it is used by some electric power chair manufacturers for their controllers - and they have to go thru a whole host of certification as medical devices).The microcontroller itself is not the issue here, but rather how the system is designed both mechanically, electronically, and how the software integrates the two. If there are any faults with any of these parts, then things could fail. It is up to the hobbyist building such a drone to do his or her best to make sure that in the event of a failure, the drone can land as safely as possible. Note, though, that nothing can rescue a drone should a propeller shatter or a motor dies or similar - that drone is falling out of the sky. So in such a case, not flying over people is most prudent.3. Again, I can't speak toward Europe or the UK - but I believe I have addressed everything per the United States above. While at one time (prior to May 2017) the United States (via the FAA) had a regulation in place for a short time that limited drones and required registration, that law is no longer in effect.I should also note a couple of other things. First, when the FAA law was in effect, it did lead to something interesting: Smaller drones. Very small drones, including ones with FPV (first person view) for fun and racing, which could be easily flown indoors (the FAA law didn't really address indoor vs outdoor flying - section 336 doesn't address this either; both mainly because no one could envision such a thing!). It's probably safe to say that if you fly indoors in a private setting, the FAA laws/rules don't apply. But you're going to be limited on drone size simply because flying larger drones indoors can be very challenging. If you do decide to do so, keep in mind the people aspect; even small drones can cause injury and damage.Secondly, note that things change a lot if you plan to do anything commercially with a drone. Section 336 will not apply if you decide to use your drone to make money or otherwise operate in a commercial (non-hobby or non-recreational) manner. Should you get caught (note that's a big if - it isn't like there are drone police running around, and the actual cops have better things to do that police this kind of stuff) - things could get very hairy quickly. If you are serious about something like this (like flying to sell aerial footage, photos, surveying, etc) - it would be best to look into the laws (perhaps consult a lawyer even) and what you should do to stay "legal". You will likely have to register the drone with the FAA, and have private insurance in case of accidents.Lastly - section 336 aside - as long as you aren't flying your drone like an a**hole and practicing some kind of restraint and safety, you shouldn't have any problems at all. Use common sense: Don't fly over people, don't fly near airports, don't fly near or on AMA flying fields if you don't have an AMA membership (unless you have a waiver or something from the local chapter), don't fly low over private property unless you have clearance from the owner (note that I put the "low" in there - basically, fly high enough to avoid disturbing the owners of the property - that'll be upwards of 200 feet or so, maybe a bit higher depending on the size of the drone - still, you are on your own here, and some people are definitely crazy and will try to shoot your drone down, because they believe bullets that miss won't hurt anyone, but "that durn drone is trying to peek in ther winders").Ultimately when it comes to drones or any other kind of hobbyist R/C devices (airplanes, helicopters, cars, you name it) - just be kind, courteous, respectful, and as safe as you possibly can as an operator, and comply with what few laws actually do exist. One of the greater ones (and I haven't read this instructable fully) is on what you use for a radio: Make sure it is legal to use for your R/C class (aircraft vs ground/water craft) and jurisdiction (in the USA, that would be what the FCC considers legal). Certain frequencies that may be legal in Europe (for instance, since this instructable is from a hobbyist in/near Poland if I am reading things right) that aren't in the USA and vice-versa. If in doubt, do your research. That said, 2.4 GHz spread-spectrum controllers have pretty much made that issue moot; as far as I know, they are legal worldwide. Also, using wifi for control shouldn't be an issue either for similar reasons. Using cellular phone service for control, though, may prove to be problematic, and a lot of research should be done (I am not sure what, if any laws, apply to such use). Basically, there are a lot of onerous laws regarding radio frequencies, and when you stray outside of the usage and guidelines set aside by the FCC for hobbyist R/C usage, things get tricky and problematic quickly. At a certain point, you may want to consult your local chapter of the ARRL (http://www.arrl.org/) for guidance.I hope this reply gives people a little more confidence and guidance on what they can and cannot do with a hobby drone. I know it is confusing and difficult to keep up with the changing laws, but it must be done and understood. Happy flying, everyone!

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  • AndrewA167 commented on awall99's instructable Arduino Data Glasses For My Multimeter 2 years ago
    Arduino Data Glasses For My Multimeter

    Suggestions:For the mirror, try a first surface mirror (if you can find one small enough) or a small prism; cheap mirrors (second surface) cause optical aberrations (double image, edges, etc) because the light has to travel thru the glass before hitting the silver surface, and back out.For the front "eye-reflector" try a piece of slide or slide slip-cover glass (for the latter, it will be very delicate - a frame for either might be in order). Another option would be to try some optical-quality polycarbonate sheeting material (this stuff may not be cheap).

    The arduino he's using is pretty small, but I think you could substitute in the 8266 (and of course add the BT and SPI LCD on). You'd gain a faster processor, more memory, etc of course. Another alternative might be a RasPi Zero...

    This is an awesome and useful project; the number of times I've been in the situation of needing to read my meter while keeping my eyes on the probes...well, more than once! This would solve it so handily. Now I just need some time to make it. Plus a 3D printer...Thanks for sharing!

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  • AndrewA167 commented on Eric Brouwer's instructable Electric Wheelchair Controller2 years ago
    Electric Wheelchair Controller

    I can definitely tell a lot of time, planning, and effort was involved, which is why my friend and I have never gone beyond the speculation part, because most of our users need the repairs done "yesterday" (which is more than understandable). We've been fortunate enough that we've had spare chairs and controllers (and motors, and everything else - apparently, when you go into such a venture, people love to donate old chairs - lots and lots of 'em!). But sometimes, a match can't be made (or something can't be cobbled together), and in those cases the only thing we can do is offer a different chair.Usually it works out. Having another solution, like your project, would be helpful in some situations, though. I am also certain there are others who don't have access to a supply of ...

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    I can definitely tell a lot of time, planning, and effort was involved, which is why my friend and I have never gone beyond the speculation part, because most of our users need the repairs done "yesterday" (which is more than understandable). We've been fortunate enough that we've had spare chairs and controllers (and motors, and everything else - apparently, when you go into such a venture, people love to donate old chairs - lots and lots of 'em!). But sometimes, a match can't be made (or something can't be cobbled together), and in those cases the only thing we can do is offer a different chair.Usually it works out. Having another solution, like your project, would be helpful in some situations, though. I am also certain there are others who don't have access to a supply of parts that will find your solution (or something similar) to be perfect for their situation. Your project helps to be that "starting point" for others (or the complete solution, if they want).

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  • AndrewA167 commented on Eric Brouwer's instructable Electric Wheelchair Controller2 years ago
    Electric Wheelchair Controller

    This is a great project, and thank you for sharing it. I work with a friend of mine, who has a non-profit restoring and repairing electric chairs, and one of our greatest issues is when someone's controller is broken, and finding them something compatible. Everything is so proprietary and different from model-to-model, even from the same manufacturer. We've played around with using controller like those from Vantec, but they are so expensive. Plus, for the proprietary controllers, finding a compatible programmer is difficult (and when you do find one, they are so expensive on the second-hand market). We've opened some of these controllers up, and have found that some of them use ATMega processors in them, and have speculated on building our own controller. You've taken that step, and ha...

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    This is a great project, and thank you for sharing it. I work with a friend of mine, who has a non-profit restoring and repairing electric chairs, and one of our greatest issues is when someone's controller is broken, and finding them something compatible. Everything is so proprietary and different from model-to-model, even from the same manufacturer. We've played around with using controller like those from Vantec, but they are so expensive. Plus, for the proprietary controllers, finding a compatible programmer is difficult (and when you do find one, they are so expensive on the second-hand market). We've opened some of these controllers up, and have found that some of them use ATMega processors in them, and have speculated on building our own controller. You've taken that step, and have shared it with the world where it is needed most. Thank you!

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