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  • TimeFrame - a Time Portal to Put on Your Desk.

    I made this, creating my own PCB, and using on-hand components. The spring in this instance, is an old pair of very cheap tweezers. The Coil i used is from an old tattoo machine (i have like 15 spare sets of coils lying around lol)There is a 6 LED strip of adhesive backed LED strip stuck to the plank between the coil, and the circuit board. In this case, it was a remnant from another project, but it had R,G,&B single color LED's on it, i just used the hot-air wand to remove them, and replaced them with 5030 cool white LED's.I however, took a more minimalist approach. Instead of building everything into a custom frame, i simply screwed it all down to a stained, and varnished bit of scrap wood. As for the end result. It works pretty decent. I do need to fiddle with the program howeve...

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    I made this, creating my own PCB, and using on-hand components. The spring in this instance, is an old pair of very cheap tweezers. The Coil i used is from an old tattoo machine (i have like 15 spare sets of coils lying around lol)There is a 6 LED strip of adhesive backed LED strip stuck to the plank between the coil, and the circuit board. In this case, it was a remnant from another project, but it had R,G,&B single color LED's on it, i just used the hot-air wand to remove them, and replaced them with 5030 cool white LED's.I however, took a more minimalist approach. Instead of building everything into a custom frame, i simply screwed it all down to a stained, and varnished bit of scrap wood. As for the end result. It works pretty decent. I do need to fiddle with the program however, to adjust the frequency of the coil, and LED's as they seem to dim a little at a specific interval. Also, the feather movement effect seems to be a little faster than I'd like, so I'll be trying to find a way of slowing that down. I'd like to get it appear to be slowly bending one direction then the other. Currently, it appears to be moving like that, but at a much faster rate.

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  • TimeFrame - a Time Portal to Put on Your Desk.

    I used a 1200uF @16v in mine, and it's working fine. The cap in this instance isn't being used for timing purposes, so it's just acting like a small battery to ensure there's enough juice for all the switching being done by the FET's.

    Yea.. Buy it from wondermachines for $300, or spend $20 in parts and build one...

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  • ArcAiN6 followed ArcAiN61 year ago
      • Arduino Based DRO for GRBL CNC Machine
  • ArcAiN6's instructable Arduino Based DRO for GRBL CNC Machine's weekly stats: 1 year ago
    • Arduino Based DRO for GRBL CNC Machine
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      7 comments
  • ArcAiN6 commented on ArcAiN6's instructable Arduino Based DRO for GRBL CNC Machine1 year ago
    Arduino Based DRO for GRBL CNC Machine

    It's the GRBL postition response. As stated, it isn't a closed loop system, so it relies on GRBL to provide positioning at this time. In the future, i hope to add quadrature scales.

    The project consists of the following:PCB: This pcb handles the positional data from GRBL by spying on the serial communication line from the GRBL arduino, to the computer. (Eagle board files provided)Arduino Code: This is what runs on the PCB's atmega328P. It reads the positional data, and state of the machine. If there is an alarm, the LCD, and 7-segment displays will flash to indicate this. The mode button switches between work coordinates, and machine coordinates. The Status RGB LED toggles between green and blue to indicate machine or work coordinate display, and flashes red when there is an alarm. For now, this only reads the data provided by GRBL and displays it. This was what i need when i'm using the remote to position the machine, or reposition it after a tool change, or in ca...

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    The project consists of the following:PCB: This pcb handles the positional data from GRBL by spying on the serial communication line from the GRBL arduino, to the computer. (Eagle board files provided)Arduino Code: This is what runs on the PCB's atmega328P. It reads the positional data, and state of the machine. If there is an alarm, the LCD, and 7-segment displays will flash to indicate this. The mode button switches between work coordinates, and machine coordinates. The Status RGB LED toggles between green and blue to indicate machine or work coordinate display, and flashes red when there is an alarm. For now, this only reads the data provided by GRBL and displays it. This was what i need when i'm using the remote to position the machine, or reposition it after a tool change, or in case of an issue. I also use this to see where the machine is, in relation to other parts on the bed, sort of a sanity check before running the gcode. However, i do have plans of adding quadrature scales to my machine, and using that data, in conjunction with the GRBL data to extend capabilities. Once i'm able to buy these hardware, it should be trivial to update the code, and board, and possibly even add more functionality.

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  • ArcAiN6 commented on ArcAiN6's instructable Arduino Based DRO for GRBL CNC Machine1 year ago
    Arduino Based DRO for GRBL CNC Machine

    My pleasure. :) ! was goaded into sharing this for a contest.. Here's to hoping i at least place... If you like it, feel free to go to the following link, scroll down until you see my project and vote for me :)https://www.instructables.com/contest/arduino2017/

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  • ArcAiN6 commented on icecreamterror's instructable Make Your Own Multi Colour PCB1 year ago
    Make Your Own Multi Colour PCB

    This won't work with FR4, you have to use the cheap resin bonded paper type boards.

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  • How to Make Arduino Based Digital Tachometer Simple DIY Tutorial

    the arduino code download link goes to a Google page that says it violates terms of service for URL shortener.. Perhaps just past the code in "code" brackets, then no one has to download anything from nefarious places.

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  • ArcAiN6 commented on mfoster's instructable Making Blocks Out of HDPE Milk Jugs2 years ago
    Making Blocks Out of HDPE Milk Jugs

    Just out of curiosity, and maybe it's just my thinking out loud here.. Have you tried shredding the milk jugs, you know, putting it through a paper shredder? Seems to reason, if you could increase the surface area by decreasing the size of your parts, you would get a better result.. It also, in my mind, seems like the best approach, would be to granulate the plastic, i.e. shred it so fine as to almost powder it, then, instead of submersing it in a solution that may be more headache than it's worth, use a dry method, i.e. throwing it in a pressure vessel like a pressure cooker. Once at temperature, you can vent the vessel, and recover your product, without the added expense / mess / waste. I would however, HIGHLY recommend doing any melting of plastics outdoors. Plastics can give off so...

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    Just out of curiosity, and maybe it's just my thinking out loud here.. Have you tried shredding the milk jugs, you know, putting it through a paper shredder? Seems to reason, if you could increase the surface area by decreasing the size of your parts, you would get a better result.. It also, in my mind, seems like the best approach, would be to granulate the plastic, i.e. shred it so fine as to almost powder it, then, instead of submersing it in a solution that may be more headache than it's worth, use a dry method, i.e. throwing it in a pressure vessel like a pressure cooker. Once at temperature, you can vent the vessel, and recover your product, without the added expense / mess / waste. I would however, HIGHLY recommend doing any melting of plastics outdoors. Plastics can give off some extremely nasty chemicals.

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  • Modification of the Lexmark E260 for Direct Laser Printing of Printed Circuit Boards

    why use acetone, or any solvent really, to fix the toner? It's toner, simply heat it to the required temperature.

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  • ArcAiN6 commented on mantaspats's instructable How to use Arduino ISP Shield 2.02 years ago
    How to use Arduino ISP Shield 2.0

    lol... even the video is set to "private"

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  • ArcAiN6 commented on phenoptix's instructable Building an ISP Shield for Arduino2 years ago
    Building an ISP Shield for Arduino

    Recently, there was a change in the "arduinoISP" sketch that swapped a pin, does this reflect this change? Also, why kicad instead of eagle? Eagle is easily converted into other PCB software formats, whereas kicad doesn't really play nice when it comes to being converted to other softwares. Sure, you could export gerber files, but you lose quite a lot of data, and the schematic.

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  •  5 Cool Projects With a General Transistor

    What can i build with 2x B772's on heatsinks, and 2x A684?

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  • Adjustable high current Lab SMPS out of a standard ATX PS

    I just did something similar to a PSU i've been using to power a small CNC machine.. The stepper drivers run on 12v-35v, but i kept having issues where the PSU would completely power off due to fluctuations in the power because the steppers were causing the 12v rail to dip if all three were running for an extended period of time.. so like clockwork, at exactly 30min's of run time, the PSU would fault protect, and power off. After removing the TPS3510P and bridging pin 2 and 3, the PSU no longer powers off at that point in the job, also, a strange side effect, the PSU actually runs cooler, not by much, only about 15C, but that tells me the fault protection IC might have been faulty to begin with..

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  • ArcAiN6 commented on rustlabs's instructable tattoo gun2 years ago
  • Connecting a 4 x 4 Membrane Keypad to an Arduino

    This doesn't work for me at all.. When i do this, i press 1, and 1 is shown to be pressed... I press 2, and it shows me 4 was pressed... If i press 4 it says 2 was pressed. It's completely turned around.. The thing is, i'm not sure if it's because your keypad is different, or because mine has a header, and i just plugged it in (pin 1 on the keypad header, to pin D2, and pin 8 on the keypad header, to pin D9 on the pro mini)However, it appears you have your keypad split into two, and reversed.. My question, why is it i can't simply reverse the order in the sketch and get it to work, rather than having to dig out 8 jumper wires?

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  • ArcAiN6 commented on Jimmacle's instructable 4-Digit 7-Segment LED Display + Arduino2 years ago
    4-Digit 7-Segment LED Display + Arduino

    People should also be aware that there are differences when wiring CC (Common Cathode) and CA (Common Anode) 7-Segment displays, as well as addressing them with the code, or using shift registers / led drivers.

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  • The Idiot's Guide to Programming AVR's on the Cheap (with the Arduino IDE!)

    do any of these programmers you've mentioned allow for high voltage programming (i.e. unbricking attiny85's)

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