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ArcAiN6

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  • Blink Multiple Leds at Different Rates, 1 Function, No Delay

    Would it be possible with this method, to store an array of blink patterns for each LED? so, instead of using a single int interval and repeat it over and over.. i could have an array of integers and increment through them.. so... unsigned long intervals1[] = {100,200,100,200,100,500,50,500,50}; in this case, every other number would be the off position.. i .e. on for 100, off for 200, on for 100... .. ... .. .

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  • TimeFrame - a Time Portal to Put on Your Desk.

    I made this, creating my own PCB, and using on-hand components. The spring in this instance, is an old pair of very cheap tweezers. The Coil i used is from an old tattoo machine (i have like 15 spare sets of coils lying around lol)There is a 6 LED strip of adhesive backed LED strip stuck to the plank between the coil, and the circuit board. In this case, it was a remnant from another project, but it had R,G,&B single color LED's on it, i just used the hot-air wand to remove them, and replaced them with 5030 cool white LED's.I however, took a more minimalist approach. Instead of building everything into a custom frame, i simply screwed it all down to a stained, and varnished bit of scrap wood. As for the end result. It works pretty decent. I do need to fiddle with the program however,…

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    I made this, creating my own PCB, and using on-hand components. The spring in this instance, is an old pair of very cheap tweezers. The Coil i used is from an old tattoo machine (i have like 15 spare sets of coils lying around lol)There is a 6 LED strip of adhesive backed LED strip stuck to the plank between the coil, and the circuit board. In this case, it was a remnant from another project, but it had R,G,&B single color LED's on it, i just used the hot-air wand to remove them, and replaced them with 5030 cool white LED's.I however, took a more minimalist approach. Instead of building everything into a custom frame, i simply screwed it all down to a stained, and varnished bit of scrap wood. As for the end result. It works pretty decent. I do need to fiddle with the program however, to adjust the frequency of the coil, and LED's as they seem to dim a little at a specific interval. Also, the feather movement effect seems to be a little faster than I'd like, so I'll be trying to find a way of slowing that down. I'd like to get it appear to be slowly bending one direction then the other. Currently, it appears to be moving like that, but at a much faster rate.

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  • Yea.. Buy it from wondermachines for $300, or spend $20 in parts and build one...

    I used a 1200uF @16v in mine, and it's working fine. The cap in this instance isn't being used for timing purposes, so it's just acting like a small battery to ensure there's enough juice for all the switching being done by the FET's.

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  • ArcAiN6 followed ArcAiN6
      • Arduino Based DRO for GRBL CNC Machine
    • Arduino Based DRO for GRBL CNC Machine
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  • The project consists of the following:PCB: This pcb handles the positional data from GRBL by spying on the serial communication line from the GRBL arduino, to the computer. (Eagle board files provided)Arduino Code: This is what runs on the PCB's atmega328P. It reads the positional data, and state of the machine. If there is an alarm, the LCD, and 7-segment displays will flash to indicate this. The mode button switches between work coordinates, and machine coordinates. The Status RGB LED toggles between green and blue to indicate machine or work coordinate display, and flashes red when there is an alarm. For now, this only reads the data provided by GRBL and displays it. This was what i need when i'm using the remote to position the machine, or reposition it after a tool change, or in case…

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    The project consists of the following:PCB: This pcb handles the positional data from GRBL by spying on the serial communication line from the GRBL arduino, to the computer. (Eagle board files provided)Arduino Code: This is what runs on the PCB's atmega328P. It reads the positional data, and state of the machine. If there is an alarm, the LCD, and 7-segment displays will flash to indicate this. The mode button switches between work coordinates, and machine coordinates. The Status RGB LED toggles between green and blue to indicate machine or work coordinate display, and flashes red when there is an alarm. For now, this only reads the data provided by GRBL and displays it. This was what i need when i'm using the remote to position the machine, or reposition it after a tool change, or in case of an issue. I also use this to see where the machine is, in relation to other parts on the bed, sort of a sanity check before running the gcode. However, i do have plans of adding quadrature scales to my machine, and using that data, in conjunction with the GRBL data to extend capabilities. Once i'm able to buy these hardware, it should be trivial to update the code, and board, and possibly even add more functionality.

    It's the GRBL postition response. As stated, it isn't a closed loop system, so it relies on GRBL to provide positioning at this time. In the future, i hope to add quadrature scales.

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  • My pleasure. :) ! was goaded into sharing this for a contest.. Here's to hoping i at least place... If you like it, feel free to go to the following link, scroll down until you see my project and vote for me :)https://www.instructables.com/contest/arduino2017/

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  • This won't work with FR4, you have to use the cheap resin bonded paper type boards.

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  • the arduino code download link goes to a Google page that says it violates terms of service for URL shortener.. Perhaps just past the code in "code" brackets, then no one has to download anything from nefarious places.

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  • I have several of these.. It uses PoE, with the power adapter being 12v 1aThe default username is administrator (no password)To reset the device to factory defaults, power the device, and hold the reset button at the back for 10 seconds. NOTE: It takes a minute or two for the device to fully power up. Once factory reset, two LED's on the front will be on, and remain on. This will serve as an indication that the device is powered, and connected to the local network. You'll need a PoE splitter, the adapter is a typical setup, with (+) on the internal center pin, and (-) on the external outer pin. (Example of a cheap Y-Cable PoE Tap)https://www.amazon.com/Power-Ethernet-Injector-Splitter-Cable/dp/B00APVQYA4

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  • This is indeed a HDD spindle. It uses 3phase to power it. It is NOT a stepper motor. You have a few methods of running this. 1) bodge the original board for the HDD to run the drive for you (Requires understanding the circuit of the board, and determining where to short, or cut signals for the controller IC, or driving IC to get the thing to spin up. 2) Build your own circuit to drive the motor, or use a microcontroller and some transistors to time the on / off of the three phases. 3) Do something dodgy like this:http://hackaday.com/2016/09/21/brushless-hdd-motor...You can learn more about these types of motors here:http://bldc.wikidot.com/p-esc-motor

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  • Just out of curiosity, and maybe it's just my thinking out loud here.. Have you tried shredding the milk jugs, you know, putting it through a paper shredder? Seems to reason, if you could increase the surface area by decreasing the size of your parts, you would get a better result.. It also, in my mind, seems like the best approach, would be to granulate the plastic, i.e. shred it so fine as to almost powder it, then, instead of submersing it in a solution that may be more headache than it's worth, use a dry method, i.e. throwing it in a pressure vessel like a pressure cooker. Once at temperature, you can vent the vessel, and recover your product, without the added expense / mess / waste. I would however, HIGHLY recommend doing any melting of plastics outdoors. Plastics can give off some…

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    Just out of curiosity, and maybe it's just my thinking out loud here.. Have you tried shredding the milk jugs, you know, putting it through a paper shredder? Seems to reason, if you could increase the surface area by decreasing the size of your parts, you would get a better result.. It also, in my mind, seems like the best approach, would be to granulate the plastic, i.e. shred it so fine as to almost powder it, then, instead of submersing it in a solution that may be more headache than it's worth, use a dry method, i.e. throwing it in a pressure vessel like a pressure cooker. Once at temperature, you can vent the vessel, and recover your product, without the added expense / mess / waste. I would however, HIGHLY recommend doing any melting of plastics outdoors. Plastics can give off some extremely nasty chemicals.

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  • why use acetone, or any solvent really, to fix the toner? It's toner, simply heat it to the required temperature.

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  • lol... even the video is set to "private"

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  • Recently, there was a change in the "arduinoISP" sketch that swapped a pin, does this reflect this change? Also, why kicad instead of eagle? Eagle is easily converted into other PCB software formats, whereas kicad doesn't really play nice when it comes to being converted to other softwares. Sure, you could export gerber files, but you lose quite a lot of data, and the schematic.

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  • What can i build with 2x B772's on heatsinks, and 2x A684?

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  • I just did something similar to a PSU i've been using to power a small CNC machine.. The stepper drivers run on 12v-35v, but i kept having issues where the PSU would completely power off due to fluctuations in the power because the steppers were causing the 12v rail to dip if all three were running for an extended period of time.. so like clockwork, at exactly 30min's of run time, the PSU would fault protect, and power off. After removing the TPS3510P and bridging pin 2 and 3, the PSU no longer powers off at that point in the job, also, a strange side effect, the PSU actually runs cooler, not by much, only about 15C, but that tells me the fault protection IC might have been faulty to begin with..

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  • This doesn't work for me at all.. When i do this, i press 1, and 1 is shown to be pressed... I press 2, and it shows me 4 was pressed... If i press 4 it says 2 was pressed. It's completely turned around.. The thing is, i'm not sure if it's because your keypad is different, or because mine has a header, and i just plugged it in (pin 1 on the keypad header, to pin D2, and pin 8 on the keypad header, to pin D9 on the pro mini)However, it appears you have your keypad split into two, and reversed.. My question, why is it i can't simply reverse the order in the sketch and get it to work, rather than having to dig out 8 jumper wires?

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  • People should also be aware that there are differences when wiring CC (Common Cathode) and CA (Common Anode) 7-Segment displays, as well as addressing them with the code, or using shift registers / led drivers.

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  • do any of these programmers you've mentioned allow for high voltage programming (i.e. unbricking attiny85's)

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