Tell us about yourself!
Absolutely! You can also omit some ingredients if your dog is fussy...Though I can't imagine any dog passing up any of those ingredients. FWIW, my father (a veterinarian) would make variations of this recipe to feed dogs with sensitive tummies or needed to lose weight. What you'll find sometimes is that because the food is so nutritionally dense, the dog ends up needing to eat less food.
What's cool about this recipe is that if you spread it out on a greased cookie sheet and stick it in the freezer, you can make some phenomenal frozen dog treats!
Yes, leave the cream out until you're done cooking the chicken. Otherwise, it will curdle and burn, if you mix it in before cooking.It's literally the last thing you add before serving.
You shouldn't need too. Since the pumice stone is solid (it is a stone), there's no adhesive for the abrasive to break down from.
I used to do it with by backstopping the holes and filling them in (and cursing!), until someone showed me how to do it this way. Quick, simple and painless!
While untempered spikes are somewhat soft, I don't think for light work you're going to see any appreciable damage to them. The author should get years of service out of them.
Made it yesterday, and it came out WONDERFUL!I substituted 2 Tbsp of applesauce instead of oil, and it was perfect!
I think you’re referring to the batten strips. They’re mostly decorative in this case, but we’re used in the old days to hold covering, like tarpaper, in place.The “Budget” part of the build is doing it yourself. Back in 2007, when I built a 12x16 two story shed, it cost me about $1200 US (3 windows, 2 doors and vinyl siding). The same one would have cost me $6-8K installed.
You probably can, but if it were me, I would:A) Pour 10-12” of concrete in each post hole for added stability and to limit settling.B) Use pressurized lumber for the posts and floor risers (I can’t see if the author had).C) Add 3 or 4 (depending if you’re doing a porch) center posts with a center board under the floor risers, to provide stability.The added supplies would add less than $100US to the supply list.
Use a graphite block instead of charcoal. They're available online and pretty inexpensive, and they don't burn up like charcoal would.
Funny! My brothers and I used oatmeal and salt containers.
Yes, if you leave them in long enough (overnight, or a day or so), it will totally remove all of the rust and unfreeze them. I have had parts that were completely jammed to the point that I couldn't close or open them with extreme force. After letting them soak for a few days, they were like new.The best part of this process is that it will only remove the rust, not the good metal. If you're worried about soaking something that's heat treated (because you could develop hydrogen ions in the metal), just place it in an oven @ 400 degrees for an hour after treating.
The problem with using fire to "clean" the cast iron is that cast iron is very brittle, and if there are any flaws in the metal to begin with or if it is heated irregularly or too fast, you can potentially crack the metal, especially a piece as thin as that pot.IMHO, for something as lightly mucked as that pot was, I would have just used a damp washcloth with some coarse salt to scour the pan, give it a washing, and then treat it.
Thank you so much! You just showed me the missing link on why my box cuts were never square (I was missing the spacing block and the guide). You have my vote!
It's also very useful in removing water rings from furniture. Take a dab and rub it in a ciruclar pattern.
Flux for sweating pipes is corrosive (acid based) and will cause the treated area to corrode and turn green over time. I have been told that it would eventually cause pinhole leaks in the pipe, but so will the wrong Ph in water.
That's one heck of a garage sale find! If no one has told you, that's a 1937 S&W 1917 contract model in .45 ACP/AR that was made for the Brazilian Navy. A boatload of them came back in the 1990's (in about that condition).Great Instructable!