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ChipStewart

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  • Automatic Gardening System With NodeMCU and Blynk, the "ArduFarmBot 2"

    Great project! I'd like to use this to run my little micro-greens greenhouse, but the .96" display is a bit difficult to read without reading glasses. I'm trying to adapt it to use 1602a/2004a displays, but I'm having some difficulty. Has anyone been able to modify this to run on other displays?Also, right now I plan on monitoring 4 trays (maybe more later). Has anyone added additional sensors and/or displays? I have a analog multiplexer on order to handle multiple soil moisture meters, and the I2C sensors/displays should work on the same data line.Any tips, hints, warnings, observations or advice?

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  • To Control RC Plane Through Mobile Phone's Accelerometer Using WiFi Module ESP8266 Explore

    This is exactly what I've been looking for to build an RC plane with my son! I'm having some difficulty, though. First, the ESP (I'm using a Wemos mini pro) is giving me a ssid of "ESP-DC7EB1" and not "WiFly" as I put in, and the password isn't required. Also, I'm not sure of what values to put in the Roboremo app for the accelerometer and throttle. Could you at least show a screen shot?Thanks.

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  • DIY WiFi Controlled Tiny Plane <15$

    Had to change the pins to GPIO13 and GPIO15 (Wemos D7 & D8) since the motor shield used GPIO4 and GPIO5, but still showing no output on the scope.

    Strange. My phone seems to connect and gives me a signal strength and voltage, but there seems to be no motor output. I uncommented the Serial.print lines just before the analogWrite lines, but wasn't seeing any output in the serial monitor. So I copied them to just before the if(millis()-premillis_rssi > DC_RSSI) line. Now I get an output, but l_speed and r_speed is always 0, regardless of where I set the throttle in the app. I think once I get this solved, I can control the I2C motor drivers.

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  • DIY WiFi Controlled Tiny Plane <15$

    I'm working on a version of this with a Wemos and Wemos motor shield using I2C. I like the modular design of the shield and will work on adding servos for rudders and elevators later using a PCA9685 (I2C also). I'm starting to rewrite the sketch for I2C. Could you provide any guidance on how you would go about drafting the sketch? I understand some of what you've done in the sketch, but would love a summary of how everything works so my "trial and error" can be more trial and less error.I'd be glad to share with the class when I'm finished.

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  • Make and Fly Cheap Smart Phone Controlled Plane

    I like using the ESP and WiFi controls, but would like to do something a bit more complex. I'm currently building a plane something like this one: https://youtube.com/watch?v=2WBJLjFvS9o and have a Wemos D1 Mini Pro ready to drop in. I also have a PCA9685 to control elevators and the rudder (and later ailerons, LEDs, landing gear, etc). Would you happen to have a version of your app to control it with? I like the app interface and would love to be able to use it with the I2C servo controller. How difficult would it be to modify the app and sketch?

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  • If in a watch band, you could make it out of silicone and zig-zag the wire so it could stretch. And maybe put the electronics so they're on the underside of your wrist so you could just wave over the terminal.

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      • Ever Blooming Mechanical Tulip
      • Arduinoflake - PCB Version
      • Glowing Ornament
  • ChipStewart commented on tallman1996's instructable PVC Instrument

    Anyone find a good cheap source for the pipe & fittings online?

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  • I build one almost exactly like this, then found this Instructable. Only differences were the use of RJ45 jacks for X, Y, & Z axis inputs; and, floppy drive stepper for pen up/down.Unfortunately, I'm still trying to get it to work. The X axis works beautifully, moving strongly and smoothly. The Z is a little weak, but will probably suffice. The Y axis, however, has been a PITA from the beginning! First, it wouldn't do anything, which I fixed by re-soldering the connection and covering with U-cure glue for strength. Then it would twitch a little, but not really move. I was able to adjust the trimmer on the driver to get it to move. It's weak, but at least moves most of the time.Only problem is, it only moves in one direction - regardless of whether I press +Y or -Y! I tried an…

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    I build one almost exactly like this, then found this Instructable. Only differences were the use of RJ45 jacks for X, Y, & Z axis inputs; and, floppy drive stepper for pen up/down.Unfortunately, I'm still trying to get it to work. The X axis works beautifully, moving strongly and smoothly. The Z is a little weak, but will probably suffice. The Y axis, however, has been a PITA from the beginning! First, it wouldn't do anything, which I fixed by re-soldering the connection and covering with U-cure glue for strength. Then it would twitch a little, but not really move. I was able to adjust the trimmer on the driver to get it to move. It's weak, but at least moves most of the time.Only problem is, it only moves in one direction - regardless of whether I press +Y or -Y! I tried another stepper: same result. Switching another A4988 driver board didn't make a difference either. Should I bump up the voltage a little more? I'm at a measured voltage of 12.02V now. If I go higher, will I fry the steppers?Any ideas why? Any suggestions? I've added pics of the front and back, and a video of X, A, and Y movement.Thanks

    Let's try external links . . . Small low res file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O0eUgWIM4dq3mY_Dz...Large hi-res file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bbaG1mQKr_HlZO5Tw...

    Now the X Axis is doing it! I tried using another arduino and another driver. I guess I've fried the steppers.

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  • I made one almost exactly like this one, before seeing this. The physical build went well, using polycarbonate and steel. I used RJ45 jacks to connect the X, Y, and Z axis, so I can switch machines.The x-axis stepper works great - seems good and strong. The z is okay, after I got it to work. The Y, however, has been giving me a hard time. I finally got it working - kind of. At first it would only twitch. By fiddling with the driver trimmer, I got it to turn. Only problem is, it goes the same direction whether I jog +Y or -Y. I tried switching drivers, switching steppers, moving the cables around on the Y stepper outputs. Still, no change.Any ideas?

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  • OLED I2c Display With Arduino

    I got the code to load and the display to light, but everything seems to be in a narrow band at the top (photo left). After the 128x64 fix, the band got even narrower (photo right). Any idea why?

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  • Okay, I'll shelve the TFT plans . . . for now. I do have the libraries for the display, though. Still, the TFT's are SO much less expensive, and it would be nice to have color - I wonder if any of the color OLED displays would work?I may still pursue the 'lectronics in the base idea, though. I could always use multiple caps in parallel. And since the neopixels touch the base, it seems like you could start / end them there.I wonder if I would be able to add a weather alert feature, in which it would flash and/or activate a small piezo beeper when a local weather alert is issued. Could be a valuable feature.

    Okay, I'll shelve the TFT plans . . . for now. I do have the libraries for the display, though. Still, the TFT's are SO much less expensive, and it would be nice to have color - I wonder if any of the color OLED displays would work?I may still pursue the 'lectronics in the base idea, though. I could always use multiple caps in parallel. And since the neopixels touch the base, it seems like you could start / end them there.

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  • Dennisv15Thanks for such a great project! I've just downloaded everything and have everything I need to build it, except for one thing - instead of an OLED, I have a nice little TFT display I would like to use with UART, I2C, and SPI. I'm fairy new at Arduino programming and ESP's. What would be required to convert the sketch? Would this be do-able, or require a major reworking?I was also thinking of hiding the circuit board in the base and just running very thin wires directly to the display. Any reason this wouldn't work?Also, I'd love to buy a board or two from you. Do you have any left? I'll PayPal you the the money right away.

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