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ChristineNZ

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12Instructables188,434Views33CommentsChristchurch New Zealand
Now retired but have a passion for robot design and construction. Also enjoy programming, my career was largely commercial programming and design work using Cobol, Fortan, and industrial automation and integration. Now enjoying life here in New Zealand having emergrated from the UK. Found a real interest in the limitless possibilities which the Arduino boards, Android Studio, and of course Arduino Basic can provide.

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  • ChristineNZ's instructable Piano Metronome's weekly stats:
    • Piano Metronome
      2,290 views
      41 favorites
      6 comments
  • ChristineNZ commented on ChristineNZ's instructable Piano Metronome
    Piano Metronome

    Hi, thanks for the comment. I agree with the reversal of the Tempo knob, simply re-fit the Rotary Encoder in the opposite direction inside the project box should do it. The beep / dot sound uses a simple beep command, I suggest that if this was replaced with a playable MP3 sound file, which contained a "click" this would certainly sound better. I have done this using an MP3 player attached to the Arduino, see any of my clock designs.

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  • Arduino Self Balancing Robot

    Hi, I have looked through my files and cannot find a V1 version for this project. I suspect I just updated the V1 file to V2. Examining the code on V2 the LCD screen and associated control buttons where added to the V1 version to allow easy adjustments of the parameters. Without this screen and control buttons you would need to either always have the USB cable attached or employ a WIFI/ Bluetooth communications system to allow you to adjust the parameters. I did not want to proceed with this project in this way. If you remove all references to the LCD and its control buttons you should a version of the code very close to the original V1.

    Hi, thanks for spotting that. I looked at the code and the Fritzing diagram and the connections are indeed reversed. The code, lines 94 through 99 are correct and match the physical connections on the robot. The Fritzing diagram is a poor one as the PCB markings are covered by the connector lines. Please ensure the PCB markings on the L298N board you are using match up to ENA-Pin5, IN1-Pin6, IN2-Pin7, IN3-Pin8, IN4-Pin9 and ENB-Pin10, (this is on a Arduino Uno).

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  • ChristineNZ commented on ChristineNZ's instructable VFD Alarm Clock
    VFD Alarm Clock

    Hi, sorry to hear about your problem with the display. I have uploaded version 4 of the software, which may fix your problem with the missing '0'. Just a comment about arrays, I am sure you will recall that the "characterArray[11]' defined array has eleven elements referenced 0 through 10, any loop that starts with '1' will miss the first element of this array. The critical functions are " process_display()" and "write_character()". Hope the above helps.

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  • ChristineNZ commented on ChristineNZ's instructable VFD Alarm Clock
    VFD Alarm Clock

    Hi, my ILC1-1/8L Clock project has a very similar system supporting the display

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  • ChristineNZ commented on ChristineNZ's instructable Useless Box
    Useless Box

    Hi,Thanks for the comment. Currently the eye and movement combinations are based on a simple count, this could be changed to a random(min, max) value which then selects one of the nine possible combinations. As for the eyes, almost anything is possible as they are based on the Adafruit Neopixel RGB LEDs and this software can be programmed to many different colours, brightness, time, etc. If you separate the eye circuits so that you have individual control lines over each eye then you can make them blink. Anyway have fun with it.

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  • ChristineNZ's instructable GPS Route Tracking's weekly stats:
    • GPS Route Tracking
      996 views
      5 favorites
      3 comments
  • ChristineNZ commented on ChristineNZ's instructable GPS Route Tracking
    GPS Route Tracking

    Hi,I had no problems with Softserial.h, maybe try compiling an example file from Arduino IDE for Softserial, maybe problem with installation of Arduino. What do you not understand about the Fritzing diagram?

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  • ChristineNZ's instructable Useless Box's weekly stats:
    • Useless Box
      1,108 views
      14 favorites
      0 comments
  • WiFi 7 Segment LED Clock

    Hi,The WEMOS Fritzing diagram has been updated to fix some of the errors. The Display Driver Fritzing diagram is hopefully a faithful reproduction of the actual circuit, however I do also have an original hand drawn circuit diagram, which I followed, which I am happy for you to have via E-Mail.

    Hi, thanks for pointing out the errors in the Fritzing diagram, I have corrected those that I have found. The LED was a very silly mistake in fact I had placed it across the 5V and GND of the 5V distribution board, the fritzing diagram should show 330ohms for that resistor. You where correct the WEMOS board was a D1 R2 version. The 5V from the DC-DC supply does input to the VIN pin on the WEMOS, this I have used before as I understand that providing it is 5V this VIN pin can be used to power the WEMOS. As regards the HDSP-C2G1 LED this datasheet was the nearest I could find, as the originals I had have no markings on them whatsoever, the datasheet matches the LED size and pinouts. I did not in fact mention that I uprated the supply to the 74AC245 and 74HC595 to 6.5V, their maximum being …

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    Hi, thanks for pointing out the errors in the Fritzing diagram, I have corrected those that I have found. The LED was a very silly mistake in fact I had placed it across the 5V and GND of the 5V distribution board, the fritzing diagram should show 330ohms for that resistor. You where correct the WEMOS board was a D1 R2 version. The 5V from the DC-DC supply does input to the VIN pin on the WEMOS, this I have used before as I understand that providing it is 5V this VIN pin can be used to power the WEMOS. As regards the HDSP-C2G1 LED this datasheet was the nearest I could find, as the originals I had have no markings on them whatsoever, the datasheet matches the LED size and pinouts. I did not in fact mention that I uprated the supply to the 74AC245 and 74HC595 to 6.5V, their maximum being 7V, to help improve the intensity of the LED displays. The clock has now been running for 2 months without any problems or heating up of any components. I understand that these larger LED displays use two LEDs per segment, instead of a single LED per segment.The 74AC245 and 74HC595 circuit came from David at the Nixie-e Google group, a very good source of help, I can provide the original hand drawn circuit he provided to me in order that I could get this project to work. The main reason for going down this route with the 74 chips was that the MAX6921 IC driver chip I was originally using in my previous projects could not supply less than 8V as an output.

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  • ChristineNZ's instructable WiFi 7 Segment LED Clock's weekly stats:
    • WiFi 7 Segment LED Clock
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      46 favorites
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  • Nixie Trilateral Clock

    Hi,Sorry to hear you had problems, not sure where in the text or diagrams did it mention 220 ohm resistor, reading the text it states 220K, please let me know where you read 220ohm resistor.

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  • ChristineNZ commented on ChristineNZ's instructable ILC1-1/8L Clock
    ILC1-1/8L Clock

    Hi, all of my clocks have the tube switch off option at night to prolong the life of the tubes, only the Alarm clock does not have this function. All of my software is coded from scratch as I enjoy the programming elements of the build as much as the build itself.

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  • ChristineNZ commented on ChristineNZ's instructable ILC1-1/8L Clock
    ILC1-1/8L Clock

    Time and date from RTC Clock DS3231, the pressure, humidity, and temperature from the BME280 sensor.

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  • ChristineNZ commented on ChristineNZ's instructable VFD Alarm Clock
    VFD Alarm Clock

    Hi,I have added two photos showing the current wiring of the IC Chip. I have checked the Wiring grid and it matches the colours and positions of the working clock. It is not possible to remove, without significant effort, the wires attached to the VFD tube. The writing grid should be read as follows: Pin = 1 (left side of VFD), IC Pin code = 20, Function = Grid6(of VFD), Wiring Colouring = Green+Black band, IC Pin Code = (OUT6). The software will only work with this combination of connections, you should also check that the DIN, LOAD, and CLK are correctly attached to the Arduino.

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  • ChristineNZ commented on ChristineNZ's instructable VFD Alarm Clock
    VFD Alarm Clock

    Hi,Sorry for the delay, I would work with the Grid defining the connections rather than any photo as sometimes the photos I use are out of date compared to the Grid defining the connections as that would have been taken from the final set of connections read directly from the finished and working VFD / IC chip connections.

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  • ChristineNZ commented on ChristineNZ's instructable SteamPunk Radio
    SteamPunk Radio

    Hi,Sorry for the delay, the dimensions are: Width 24cm, Height 28cm, and Length 51cm.

    Hi,I agree with you entirely, dupont connectors are not the ideal for reliability nor compact ability. My skills do not extend to PCB formatting at the moment, something I will have to work on. The other reason for not using PCBs is that it allows anyone to build these clocks with off-the-shelf components who like me limited knowledge of electronics. I have used WI-FI enabled devices before mostly Bluetooth, as I have had difficulties in getting the ESP range of Wi-FI to work properly, again something I will have to work on. I certainly intend to re-visit my VFD Thermometer and replace the Arduino Uno board with a WeMos board, which will allow me to write a simple Android App to change and set the time on it via my Samsung Tablet.

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  • ChristineNZ's instructable SteamPunk Radio's weekly stats:
    • SteamPunk Radio
      9,072 views
      65 favorites
      11 comments
  • ChristineNZ commented on ChristineNZ's instructable SteamPunk Radio
    SteamPunk Radio

    Hi, sorry no photo. However after removing the gate valve the handle has a spiral end which I pushed and glued a plastic tube onto. I cut the tube to length and then pushed and glued the same tube onto the knelled knob of the pot. The pot was held in place using a piece of tin, drilled to allow the pot to pass through it and secured using its nut.

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  • ChristineNZ commented on ChristineNZ's instructable XIV Nixie Clock

    Hi Scott,Thanks for your comments. I have seen Paul Parry's great work. It appears to me that most of his clocks are Steampunk themed. I am currently working on my own Steampunk clock and once complete I will submit it to this and the Bad Dog sites.

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      • A 'Faberge' Styled Single Tube Nixie Clock
      • The Victorian Tantalus Nixie Clock
      • Wooden Venetian Blind Nixie Clock Aka Sara's Little Sister.
      • A Talking Steampunk Thermometer
      • "The Time Cup" - a Steampunk Timer/Clock With Westminster Sound
      • The Pillars of Time - a Steampunk Nixie Clock
  • ChristineNZ commented on ChristineNZ's instructable VFD Alarm Clock

    Hi,The Maxium 6921 chip would work with this 8 segment tube, however the software would need to be modified to support 8 grids rather than the 12 it currently uses, plus the tribe's inputs would need to be identified and then remapped to the chips outputs, but otherwise it would work.

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  • Hi, the three download Zip files have been added, all from the https://github.com/ wed site. The other "include" files "SPI.h" and "Wire.h" are standard files held in the Arduino IDE system.

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  • ChristineNZ commented on ChristineNZ's instructable XIV Nixie Clock

    Hi,Thanks, no sorry, New Zealand.

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  • ChristineNZ's instructable VFD Alarm Clock's weekly stats:
    • VFD Alarm Clock
      14,080 views
      87 favorites
      11 comments
  • ChristineNZ commented on ChristineNZ's instructable VFD Alarm Clock

    Hi, thanks for the comment regarding driver libraries, something that I have not included in my project details, I will ensure that I do include links to any non-standard driver libraries I use from now on. The DS3231 driver can be found at: https://github.com/NorthernWidget/DS3231 I think I am using Version 1.0.2

    Hi, I am also using Arduino v1.8.9 IDE, I use DS3231 with a standard RTC module purchased off Trade Me, Listing #: 2183390247, not sure why it does not compile, is it the driver line 27, or another line in the program?

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  • Hi,I found that the stepper motor has difficulty in turning through 3 X 120 degrees, which is needed to complete one single revolution. It requires 2048 steps to complete 360 degrees. Dividing that value up you get 682.5 which the stepper motor cannot use. So to fix this problem I used 683, then 682, then 683 for the three steps which does add up to 2048. The minor difference between 682 and 683 cannot be seen and this ensures the stepper motor returns to the exact same place at the end of each revolution. The critical code in the program is " move_pillar(683);" where 683 appears twice and the 682 parameter appears once.

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  • Hi,I'm sure you have fixed the problems you are having, however if not then this may help:1. Comment out line 95 'light_detection()', sleep_mode will then always be equal to 0.2. #include "Stepper-28BYJ-48.h", the stepper motor driver will only work for the 28BYJ-48 stepper motor you will have to either ensure that you purchase the 28BYJ-48 stepper motor or if you purchase another stepper motor that you find and use the correct stepper motor driver with it. Double check the pin-outs to both the driver board and the Arduino Uno board, also ensure that you have 5V supply to the stepper motor.

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  • Hi,Thanks for pointing that out, must have been thinking about my next project.

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  • ChristineNZ's instructable VFD Trilateral Clock's weekly stats:
    • VFD Trilateral Clock
      3,289 views
      33 favorites
      8 comments
  • Hi,Any suitable HV boost supply will do, for example: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2...Just ensure it provides 140V+ and has robust connectors. Watch out for fake power boosters, and some have long delivery times 6 weeks!

    Hi,Yes I agree, good upgrade for version 2, replacing the Arduino Uno with Wemos, gives Wifi, saves space, and removes the ETC module.

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  • ChristineNZ commented on ChristineNZ's instructable XIV Nixie Clock

    Hi,Using the code I check the light sensitive resistor's value prior to each of the display loops, if less than the default value the software repeats the loop, until the value returns to a value greater than the default value at which time the software allows the tubes to display.

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  • ChristineNZ commented on ChristineNZ's instructable XIV Nixie Clock

    Hi,IN-18 Nixie tubes came from this e-bay supplier: 'radiomikeussr' great price and well packaged, 4 weeks delivery time.K155id BCD chips came from e-bay supplier: 'y-2009' well packaged, new not used, 4 weeks delivery time.IN-12A, IN-15A Nixie tubes and NE-2 Neon lamps came from e-bay supplier 'nixiestore' again well packaged, good price, 4 weeks delivery time. I would use all of the above suppliers again.All other components off the shelf via Trade Me here in NZ.

    Hi,Regards cost, about $1000 NZD and about 300 hours work.

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  • ChristineNZ's instructable XIV Nixie Clock's weekly stats:
    • XIV Nixie Clock
      9,739 views
      97 favorites
      10 comments
  • Hi,The 180 set point is a default value, chosen as a starting value, this article may help:https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=439045.0

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    • Jasper the Arduino Hexapod V1
      1,393 views
      15 favorites
      1 comments
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  • ChristineNZ's instructable Bluetooth Robot's weekly stats:
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      1 comments
  • ChristineNZ's instructable Arduino Self Balancing Robot's weekly stats:
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