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I doubt you would make contact to any degree with the lead in lead solder. Since you’re blowing into it rather than drinking out of it and the lead is only that which is sweated between the two pieces of brass you’re pretty safe.
Nice work, Very nice work. I’ve made three spoons (I’m an accomplished woodworker) and my third one was not as nice as your first. I did the rough scooping of the “bowl” fInst, just after the overall shaping. Did you consider doing it this way? I also found that mineral oil worked under wax and I felt food safer that way but I admit it’s being “picky” and maybe completely unfounded.Thanks for sharing your experience.
Us Turkish ground coffee if you can find it you’ll get all the coffee for everyone
My late wife and I made lots of ice cream the traditional method but this sounds like a wonderful alternative. Thank you!
This is very nice work and at a substantial savings over purchasing the entire tool. Did you consider using a copper tubing cap? It’s already round and much less expensive. Still considering how much you’ve saved why not settle for a great job as is?To quickly address the value of these “carbide “ cutters I’d add they seem to last forever, produce a clean finish, work quickly, and “resharpen” with a rotating of the cutter edge.
A nice clean look. When cutting the uprights and the rails I would hate used double sided tape (carpet tape) to have virtually identical parts. And things go more quickly.
I believe this is a very well done project but I think it should be renamed as a fume mover. Unfortunately fans in this configuration can only move air so far and then the air has a tendency to come back and be drawn into the intake system and expelled you are creating a loop. To really be an extractor it needs to have a duct system that would that would remove the fumes. Considering being beautiful work done I believe the builder could easily find a way to duct. Perhaps that slinky style of flexible duct.
When you saw the notches for the stiffener make several passes leaving a “comb” appearance with the kerfs. This will allow you to hammer across the the length of the “comb” and the chips will just pop away. Clean up with a chisel as necessary and it will be a nice tight fit needing only a nail at each joist.Oh, use nails when possible as it will be easier to disassemble later and do less damage to the wood you’ll use on your next project.
This leveling platform is a good example of a tension torsion beam. A very good idea.
Clever look and an excellent tutorial on making it. However I don’t think it can be called a “Frame” as it doesn’t address all the edges of a photo or keep the photo flat. Maybe a wider slot to allow the photo and a backer material. But it still wouldn’t be a “frame”. Kudos for using double sided tape, more commonly known as carpet tape. The originality of this project is very cool.
Aa great reuse and create at the same time. I am amused however by “very medium “ speed use.
Great idea and well executed but please devise a “stop” so you can’t advance in to the blade. A plexiglass shield would also be an easy safety measure should the stock get loose and fall into the blade. All that said what a great solution for the need of a large dowel.
Your use of quarter sawn white oak makes beautiful boxes such as yours. Plans for shop made jigs for sawing the finger joints can be found online. I’ve tried a few and a great one uses a thread rod to move the stock. The advantage of a 3/8 x 16 rod is moving stock in the same increment as your imperial ruler. So there’s a project. Another project can be “fuming” the White Oak. Thus fine boxes as yours can lead to more fine projects. One caution is using steel fasteners if you plan on the boxes being exposed to the weather, the oak will stain black in the fastener area.
A very nicely presented set of instructions. I've always had good luck using "lead" solder as a previous commenter stated and the new "non-lead" works very well as a replacement. This for non stressed joints, water plumbing and such. However silver soldered joints are needed for tasks such as refrigeration plumbing. I've found sanding or brushing the solder area prior to using flux greatly increases fully soldered joints. There manufactured brushes available designed to clean 1/2" and 3/4" copper tubing and they substitute for sanding. Don't forget to clean both male and female ends.bending the solder 90 degrees at a length equal to the tubing diameter assures you are using enough solder.Mape gas produces higher heat and speeds the work, use it the same...
A very nicely presented set of instructions. I've always had good luck using "lead" solder as a previous commenter stated and the new "non-lead" works very well as a replacement. This for non stressed joints, water plumbing and such. However silver soldered joints are needed for tasks such as refrigeration plumbing. I've found sanding or brushing the solder area prior to using flux greatly increases fully soldered joints. There manufactured brushes available designed to clean 1/2" and 3/4" copper tubing and they substitute for sanding. Don't forget to clean both male and female ends.bending the solder 90 degrees at a length equal to the tubing diameter assures you are using enough solder.Mape gas produces higher heat and speeds the work, use it the same as propane. It's almost a must for silver soldering in my opinion.
a very nice plywood construction but needs joinery to be stronger. Sanding beyond 280/320 is not productive before using varnish or other products. This subjective but time spent on “smoothing “ is better spent after applying the chosen finish.
This is a good idea and for “rare” sizes an easy fix. This system allows the woodworker to use the wood stock that matches the rest of the project. An aside, there is a tool company that allows a woodworker to make threads on dowels in the same manner.This is well taught, Thank you.
Don’t forget 1/4-24 the fine thread size for 5/16. Both are commonly used sizes.
While this is way over my head I am still very impressed but the detail given in this Instructable. And I want to say thank you for reminding me how to share things that I do know how to do. This is an impressive project. And you have given an impressive example of teaching.
I use a fly cutter to cut these disks on my drillpress and that way you can have any diameter drum you want.
Use stick on magnetic tape on the key and then fasten the magnets to the underside of whatever and your key is safe.
Another way to remove rust is using a battery charger and wash soda and I've used it with success. There are many articles about this process. When I've restored planes I flattened the sole, many planes are not flat and it's a great way to get back to a smooth sole at the same time. Highland Woodworking caries some parts for some planes if you're missing parts. All this stated I've not done the painting and yours look very nice. And the making totes and knobs speaks highly of your dedication to a complete restoration.
honestly, it's been awhile. But I just went online and found this: pU/uploads/Rust-Removal-with-a-Battery-Charger.pdfIt took more than twenty four hours but other than checking progress required no effort on my part.
A few years ago I had a 1966 Chevrolet half-ton pickup truck, no power steering or brakes. . A six cylinder engine and a three speed manual transmission. I dreamed forever of converting to electric and just didn't have good ideas. What you have done here makes me want to go out and find that old pickup and do just what you've shown. This is a great instructable; not only instructive but inperational . T
this was the pick-up
A great project and what's really great is the easy access to power. 9 volt battery, they are everywhere. Thanks.
I too used a shop bandsaw for making boards out of logs. I ended up using a Lennox carbide 1" blade and had great blade life and very clean cuts with no drift. Your idea of short rounds is a great way to use material that would have burned otherwise. Kudos for a clear explanation and a good idea.
thank you for sharing an incredible project. In such a large undertaking there will be other ideas; they too will be vulnerable to criticism. Nice work!
Please remember there are lots of reasons for more than one knot. Part of the reasons are the security of a knot and then there is the ease of undoing the knot and then there is the damage too tight a knot does to the line.So....the correct knotsfor the tasks.
Very nicely explained. For those who want a little "power" a router will make a smooth bottom, a good glue surface. When I've done this I've always had to be very careful on thru bow ties. Square chisel work paramount.
Head at the correct angle and height to the work these carbide tools do "cut" not just scrape. While I agree hard traditional tools are a joy to use and cut beautifully they require more tool skills. These carbide tools are a great way to start turning, less initial tool skill while acquiring a joy turning.
an easy way to make these inserts is using 3/8" Baltic birch plywood for the insert. Sabre saw/jigsaw the blank 1/8" larger and then use double face tape to fasten the original to the blank. Use a pattern router bit to finish it to a perfect fit. Because Baltic. Birch is so dense you can tap the set screw holes for adjustment screws. Fine tune as necessary.
The problem here is the "plug" dowel will be end grain and really stand out. before creating the hole buy a plug cutter of the appropriate size then make the hole and fill it with your new plug that matches in color, grain, and direction of grain. You'll use the new plug cutter forever.
Nicely done, I'm sure the neighbors appreciate the "look" as well as your family. A point worth noting is the resawing of construction cut materials. You're absolutely correct, it ,makes the project unique. As an aside resawing also removes the radii found on construction grade lumber.
yes the oil furnace transformer works great. I made a Jacobs ladder for a grandson (Jacob, who could resist) using 1/4 Inch brazing rods for the ladder and an oil burner transformer.I wrapped a sheet of clear plastic around the ladder to keep breezes from stopping the climb and keep fingers out.This ruler idea is great.
This is about as good a sander as is possible. Trying to tweak is nearly impossible. But, maybe t nuts for the faceplate and MDO for the disc. That said these are minor and the Instructable is great. Very well done.
hello, nice work and I agree Baltic birch plywood is both strong and has nice looking plys. I've found using Weldwood plastic glue has the longest open time and the least amount of creep. Great design and thanks for the good instructions.Gr
nice idea. I've been a woodworker for over fifty years, made many hidden compartments and have always thought the magnet was the way to go. Your method will give many of confidence to use magnets.
be careful about using spade bits. The sides of the spade bit cut so the jig will be damaged and they tear end grain. Far better probably would be a Forstner bits with a center spur,