CoolRextreme

Haha, These are some super valid points!Looking back on this instructable, I was just about 17 years old. Since /then/ I have learned a whole lot more about proper grammer ;) I will likely run through my instructables again to clean them up with better grammar. Thanks for pointing this out!

Hey dbahn25!Sadly, I sold off this board for college tuition and fees, so I can't test it right here and now, and provide definitive answers.However, if I remember correctly (and reading above to jog my memory) I believe it rode at around 9Mph @ 11.1V! Hope that bit of info helps!This is just a guesstimate, but I think @ 4S it would run around 12MPHStay safe, and happy boarding!

Hello MathiasL15!First of, just want to say; Your profile avatar is baller. It totally made my day! Doggos for the win!! :3As for your questionI weighed around 63kg back when I had this board. It could sort of start on it's own. Needed a little push to get going.Struggled up grades though (Audibly working quite hard to get over an overpass)I highly recommend two of /these/ motors.Or, buy a single motor with much lower KV. Perhaps 180KV.But I would recommend two motors; twice the oomph (There is your acceleration!!), better breaking (as you will have TWO breaks vs one) and just plain awesomeness, all at the cost of a few mph.I prescribe two 100-120KV motors on 11.1V! :D

Hey there!No, the ESC wires end in 5 or 5.5mm female bullet connectors, wheras the motor ends in 4mm male bullet connectors. I just soldered the two together!And no, you dont HAVE to use a programing card. The ESC comes pre-programed. (it will work right out of the box!) However if you want to change the settings from the factory-set settings, you WILL have to buy the programming card!But no, the programing card is not needed!

Hello! Thanks, I tried to make a nice beginner's introduction to the E-boarding community. I'm glad that almost two years later people are still checking it out :DWhen my ESC was burnt out I went over to Hobby King and got one of their X-car beast 120A ESCs.https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingr-tm-x-car-be...I really like it. Only 60 bucks. Plus the fan is pretty darn quiet, so much so that I can resist the temptation to plug it up :p It has served me very well for the past year.However, if you want a bit more max amp space, throw in 10 more bucks and get the 150 amp ESC.https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingr-tm-x-car-be...

Actually with my new ESC (after the one my brother burnt out) I did NOT get the programing cable! However, I am going to grab some new batteries soon (The others are just plain physically worn our from being repeatedly stuffed into the metal box and I don't want them to accidentally 'pop' on a sharp corner) and when I do I shall indeed grab that programing USB cord!

When you turn on the ESC, it usually beeps 4 or 5 times. This is just telling you that the motor is correctly connected to the ESC.When you turn on the remote, it beeps once more (For a total of 5-6 beeps) to tell you that the ESC is connected to the receiver/controller correctly.The beeping 5-7 times is completely normal, happens every time you power it on, and is in fact telling you everything is connected and ready to go!

Hello there!First off, just wanted to say your build looks super clean, well done!I was wondering about some of the specific specs, if you happen know them.Top speed seems to be 40 kph correct? Or around 25 mph. How far will it go though?Also, I noticed you doubled up on buying the ESCs, controllers, motors, and so on. Just curious, who got the other board?

Hey there! Try adding some of this to the thread of your tool.http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-0-2-fl-oz-Threa...Loctite helps 'seal' the screw threads so vibration wont loosen it! However! Be sure to get the right Loctite. There are a few different strengths.'Blue' loctite, which I have linked, will FIRMLY lock the the threads, but still be able to let the screw be un-screwed with hand tools. However red loctight is MUCH stronger, and need HEAT to be un-stuck. There is a blog on the diffrent colors of loctite here.http://us.henkel-adhesives-blog.com/test/post/All-...I do not know what size the set screws are unfortunately, but I DO know Home Depot does not carry a small enough size.

Hey there! Try adding some of this to the thread of your screws.http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-0-2-fl-oz-Threa...Loctite helps 'seal' the screw threads so vibration wont loosen it! However! Be sure to get the right Loctite. There are a few different strengths.'Blue' loctite, which I have linked, will FIRMLY lock the the threads, but still be able to let the screw be un-screwed with hand tools. However red loctight is MUCH stronger, and need HEAT to be un-stuck. There is a blog on the diffrent colors of loctite here.http://us.henkel-adhesives-blog.com/test/post/All-...I do not know what size the set screws are unfortunately, but I DO know Home Depot does not carry a small enough size.

Sure!The motor shaking could be caused by two reasons (That I have experienced myself)1st. If your motor refuses to work AT ALL (not this case) and JUST shakes, its a wire connection problem. Make sure all three wires are securely soldered between the ESC and the motor.2nd (Seems to be your case here) This IS a brushless motor. In short, that means that it has to sometimes get a bit of a start help turning right from the get-go. Because they dont have the internal brushes like a brushed motor, they need a bit of help, or more current to actually start spinning. (For this reason you usually have to push off when electric long boarding before engaging the motor)Same when your not putting weight on the motor. When you are just barely pulling back on the trigger, the motor often needs a littl…

Sure!The motor shaking could be caused by two reasons (That I have experienced myself)1st. If your motor refuses to work AT ALL (not this case) and JUST shakes, its a wire connection problem. Make sure all three wires are securely soldered between the ESC and the motor.2nd (Seems to be your case here) This IS a brushless motor. In short, that means that it has to sometimes get a bit of a start help turning right from the get-go. Because they dont have the internal brushes like a brushed motor, they need a bit of help, or more current to actually start spinning. (For this reason you usually have to push off when electric long boarding before engaging the motor)Same when your not putting weight on the motor. When you are just barely pulling back on the trigger, the motor often needs a little more juice to really start turning.From what I can tell from the video (Thanks so much for providing that!) This is completely normal for an unsensored brushless motor, and you have no cause to worry!

Yes, for me the motor wires where much smaller then the ESC wires.I just cut off the ends of the ESC wires, same with the motor wires. Then I twisted each motor wire to it's corresponding ESC wire, spread some solder on them to hold them together, then wrapped each connection with electrical tape.Hope that helps!

Welcome to the instructables DIY E-board community man! Glad to have you on board (heh)Also great instructable as well. Smart using two high kv motors. make for good speed!

No problem! I'm glad it was that easy and there was nothing broken.Indeed. There was no manual, and nothing on the internet about the set-up process for that ESC, so I had to sit down for an afternoon and try and figure out the correct sequence and such.If properly set, you should have forward speed (100% speed), break, and reverse from a stop (50% speed)Enjoy! And remember, safety first!

Hmm. Between the ESC and motor, all you have to do is connect them.Double check that the motor and ESC wires are completely attached. Also double check that your remote and the ESC is are properly synched. Here is an excerpt from my instructable-in-progress for my next board. It explains how I synched this ESC with this Remote.(I had to screen capture it because instructables.com's copy/paste does not work)See if that all works. Is your motor beeping on boot-up?

It does not matter what order the three ESC wires and three motor wires are hooked up in. They work all ways! However, if you hook them all up and find your motor is spinning the wrong way, just switch two of the wires and the motor will spin the opisite way!

This is a question I ask myself all the time.There are just so many possibilities out there!Yes, you could make the batteries removable, and also make it so you could put different sized batteries in. You could add a USB charger, LED lights, straps, or mountainboard wheels for off-roading.You could also hook up the batteries to a DPDT switch so you could charge them in parallel and run them in Series!

Thank you very much! Stay tuned, I will have another one out, probably in a few months!

You can motorize a longboard, skateboard, or penny board. Really it just depends on how you want to ride your board.This article on the difference between longboards and skateboards should helo however!https://longboardsreview.com/longboard-vs-skateboard/

I have also been having problems with copy/pasting, including using the CtrlC / CtrlV! Its rather annoying.Especilly when I have to type in URLs

You want the largest motor pulley possible, but still keeping the gearing ratio high to reduce strain on motor. The bigger your wheel pulley is compared to your motor pulley, the higher the gear ratio. But then again, the wheel determines the maximum size of the larger pulley, and so pretty much controls your max gear ratio.As for the motor pulley, you dont have to worry about it being to big to hit the ground and such. The biggest motor pulley I have ever heard used was a 16 tooth one, with a 38 tooth gear.The bigger the motor pulley is compared to the wheel pulley, the more strain is put on the motor. However if the motor pulley is too small, the belt has a much better chance of slipping. The safe range for the motor pulley is 16T-12T Any lower then 12tooth and you are really asking f…

You want the largest motor pulley possible, but still keeping the gearing ratio high to reduce strain on motor. The bigger your wheel pulley is compared to your motor pulley, the higher the gear ratio. But then again, the wheel determines the maximum size of the larger pulley, and so pretty much controls your max gear ratio.As for the motor pulley, you dont have to worry about it being to big to hit the ground and such. The biggest motor pulley I have ever heard used was a 16 tooth one, with a 38 tooth gear.The bigger the motor pulley is compared to the wheel pulley, the more strain is put on the motor. However if the motor pulley is too small, the belt has a much better chance of slipping. The safe range for the motor pulley is 16T-12T Any lower then 12tooth and you are really asking for belt slippage.

Okiedokielokie!I know its really bad, (quickly drawn in paint) but it should help illustrate my point.On the top, you have a small motor pulley and a large wheel pulley. The yellow/red line represents the belt.Also, we are ignoring the two large circles, those represent the wheel pulley. At the moment we are interested in the two smaller circles which represent motor pulleys of different sizes.Now take a moment to realize that on a belt, there are teeth every few mm.The RED part of the simulated belt is where the belt is in contact with a pulley. The Yellow part is where the belt is not in contact with any pulley.Now if you where to measure the red area on the smaller motor pulley, and compare it to the red area on the larger motor pulley (bottom illustration) you will note there is more …

Okiedokielokie!I know its really bad, (quickly drawn in paint) but it should help illustrate my point.On the top, you have a small motor pulley and a large wheel pulley. The yellow/red line represents the belt.Also, we are ignoring the two large circles, those represent the wheel pulley. At the moment we are interested in the two smaller circles which represent motor pulleys of different sizes.Now take a moment to realize that on a belt, there are teeth every few mm.The RED part of the simulated belt is where the belt is in contact with a pulley. The Yellow part is where the belt is not in contact with any pulley.Now if you where to measure the red area on the smaller motor pulley, and compare it to the red area on the larger motor pulley (bottom illustration) you will note there is more area space where the belt is in contact with the pulley.Lets say the motor pulley on the top illustration has 20mm of belt contact. Lets also pretend that the belt has a tooth every 5mm.That gives you about 4 teeth in contact with the small motor pulleyNow if we compare the red area of the top motor pulley with the red area on the bottom (larger) motor pulley, we would notice a substantially longer red area. Almost twice as much!So that gives us about 40mm of belt/motor pulley contact at all times, or about 8 teeth in contact with the motor pulley at all times.Which one do you think will slip more? The top motor pulley with less teeth to grip at, or the bottom motor pulley with almost twice the teeth to grip at?But also remember this is all because of the pulley sizes. If you where to shrink that wheel pulley in either illustration, you would get more teeth gripping that motor pulley at any one time.Its a bit like the saying 'your only as strong as your weakest link'Hope that clears that up! Ill gladly answer any more questions. I just hope that dose not confuse you more xD

I just looked at your original motor and the enertion motor.The low kv will defiantly help!If you are up to spend an extra 60 bucks, I would totally go with the $121 enertion rather the turnigy motor. Here is why.Lower kv. As stated above, will really help with the lower gearing as it has more torque compared to 245 kv. MUCH more torque.It only has a tad bit less power then the turnigy (2400W vs 2700W power) But then again, that is all even more then the one motor I am running with my board (1500W power) So in terms of power, you are just peachy! (great)Also, the enertion motor can be run up to 12 (44.4 volts), whereas the turnigy motor was only able to run up to 10S (37 volts) So in respects of future upgrades, the enertion comes in best, as you could just buy another 6S battery and almo…

I just looked at your original motor and the enertion motor.The low kv will defiantly help!If you are up to spend an extra 60 bucks, I would totally go with the $121 enertion rather the turnigy motor. Here is why.Lower kv. As stated above, will really help with the lower gearing as it has more torque compared to 245 kv. MUCH more torque.It only has a tad bit less power then the turnigy (2400W vs 2700W power) But then again, that is all even more then the one motor I am running with my board (1500W power) So in terms of power, you are just peachy! (great)Also, the enertion motor can be run up to 12 (44.4 volts), whereas the turnigy motor was only able to run up to 10S (37 volts) So in respects of future upgrades, the enertion comes in best, as you could just buy another 6S battery and almost double your speed :PSo yes, if you can spare the $, totally go with the enertion motor! (its also MEANT to be used with E-boards)

Sorry for the long wait in reply, Have not check my email for a while...Yep! You got the pulley radius/diameter down. 60 should work out well. You just don't want to ride the pulley vs the wheel ;DAt the moment I am using 1/8 inch riser/chock pads. More to keep the metal trucks off my lovely paint job then to absorb bumps and such. NOT for vibe eating. Personal opinion I guess. But I have heard of people buying 1/4 inch thick rubber mat from Home Depot, cutting out their own risers, and using them on their board. I guess the slightly softer rubber absorbs more bumps and vibrations.And after sailing down a sidewalk at 18mph, the cracks start to get annoying. But that is nothing compared to going down a fancy brick sidewalk >.< I cant feel my feet after that! xDI might try the Home De…

Sorry for the long wait in reply, Have not check my email for a while...Yep! You got the pulley radius/diameter down. 60 should work out well. You just don't want to ride the pulley vs the wheel ;DAt the moment I am using 1/8 inch riser/chock pads. More to keep the metal trucks off my lovely paint job then to absorb bumps and such. NOT for vibe eating. Personal opinion I guess. But I have heard of people buying 1/4 inch thick rubber mat from Home Depot, cutting out their own risers, and using them on their board. I guess the slightly softer rubber absorbs more bumps and vibrations.And after sailing down a sidewalk at 18mph, the cracks start to get annoying. But that is nothing compared to going down a fancy brick sidewalk >.< I cant feel my feet after that! xDI might try the Home Depot rubber riser trick. But really, it all comes down to personal preference. In the beginning though, its just a major step up from non-powered to powered Longboard. Why worry about the trivial things until you get a feel for what you like/don't like!PS. 'Pulley' is just another word for the 'gears' whether its the 'gear' on the motor or the 'gear' on the wheel.It stems from the fact that we are actually using timing belts used in cars/motorcycles or what not, where the 'gears' for the belts are called pulleys, or timing pulleys.They are not technically gears anyways, as I believe gears come in contact with other gears, whereas pulleys have a rope or belt moving along/around them. Sorry if I confused you!However, the ratio of pulley teeth to pulley teeth (14/40 or what not) is still galled 'gearing', not 'pulleying' :PAlso I shall get a diagram up asap! Of which concept would you prefer the diagram to focus on? Gearing ratios? Or the pulley-belt tooth contact area?

Its ok :D I like questions, gives me time to think.iNo, the gear will have to be smaller, but yes, with less teeth.This is because I was usuing a 90mm wheel, which has a larger diameter then a 80mm wheel. The 40T pulley has a diameter around 20mm (2cm) smaller then the 90mm wheel.However, as the 80mm wheel has an even smaller diameter then the 90mm wheel, you will HAVE to use a smaller wheel gear, or the gear could en up being bigger then the wheel, which is obviously bad :PAlso, think of rocks and pebbles. You want your gear to be a bit off the ground, so it wont be rubbing the belt against anything bad.So as a whole; smaller wheel = smaller gear = less teeth.But remember, that lowers the gear ratio.For example. I have a motor pulley with 14 teeth, and my wheel pulley has 40 teeth (14/40…

Its ok :D I like questions, gives me time to think.iNo, the gear will have to be smaller, but yes, with less teeth.This is because I was usuing a 90mm wheel, which has a larger diameter then a 80mm wheel. The 40T pulley has a diameter around 20mm (2cm) smaller then the 90mm wheel.However, as the 80mm wheel has an even smaller diameter then the 90mm wheel, you will HAVE to use a smaller wheel gear, or the gear could en up being bigger then the wheel, which is obviously bad :PAlso, think of rocks and pebbles. You want your gear to be a bit off the ground, so it wont be rubbing the belt against anything bad.So as a whole; smaller wheel = smaller gear = less teeth.But remember, that lowers the gear ratio.For example. I have a motor pulley with 14 teeth, and my wheel pulley has 40 teeth (14/40). For every 2.8 turns my motor makes, my wheel makes one turn. General physics (idk xD) states that this makes it much easier for the motor to turn the wheel, then a 14/30 gear ratio in which for every 2.1 motor turns, the wheel turns one turn.Working the motor too hard can be bad, so you generally want the biggest wheel pulley you can get, with the smallest motor pulley you can get for maximm torque power.However, wheel pulley is again determined by how big your wheel is. Also, 14T is really scraping the bottom of motor pulley teeth count, as the smaller your motor pulley is, the less teeth the belt will be in contact with (I shall add pictures upon request if this is getting to complicated) aka, a 14 T pulley will have less teeth gripping the belt then a 30 T pulley. You do not want the belt to skip teeth, so you gotta make sure youre pulleys can get a good grip on it!So far: Smaller wheel= smaller wheel pulley = lower gear ratio. (less motor turns per wheel turn) In order to fix that: Smaller motor pulley. However, Smaller motor pulley = less belt teeth in contact with motor pulley teeth = more prone to belt skipping = running belts much easier.So, in order to fix that problem, use higher torque (lower kv) motor. Which, you have a lower kv motor vs mine, so you should be good!Just be aware, smaller wheels means smaller gear ratio. It all works off eachother, and while way to complicated to explain, it is quite easy to grasp if you just imagine how it all is set up. Its all just common physics and what-not.So for you, you already have a lower kv motor, so you can probably afford a lower gear ratio. A 14/30-35 should work, just check to see how the diameter of such a pulley compares to the diameter of the 8mm wheel! You should have the edge of the pulley be away from the edge of the wheel by a cm or two, just to keep it and your belt away from the groundAnyway, hope that helps! If you need diagrams or what not, or more questions, just ask! I am getting excited for you :D-C.R

Yep! Just add another batter of equal voltage and hook it up in parallel with the original battery!But be careful. both batteries will drain at the same rate of eachother, so it is preferable to join two same-capacity batteries, vs one large capacity and one small capacity, as you do not want to under-discharge the smaller batter, and still have half the bigger battery left.Hope that helps!-C.R

So far I have heard the normal range of kv for DIY E-board motors is 170-280, 300 scraping the upper limit.I would actually recommend a 230 kv motor, as it will probably give a but more power; the 280 kv motor works great, but lacks a tad bit of that extra power that helps going up grades ie. overpasses. It noticeably slows when going up those larger grades, and you can hear the motor working harder.So in answer to your question: No. do not get the 350 kv motor unless you weigh 100 pounds sopping wet. Stick with the general 170-280 rule. Again, 230 seems like it would be a god medium between speed and some solid power behind you, though I cant say from experience yet; I just got two 230kvs from torqueboards, but have yet to try them outAlso, if its speed you want, higher kv is not always…

So far I have heard the normal range of kv for DIY E-board motors is 170-280, 300 scraping the upper limit.I would actually recommend a 230 kv motor, as it will probably give a but more power; the 280 kv motor works great, but lacks a tad bit of that extra power that helps going up grades ie. overpasses. It noticeably slows when going up those larger grades, and you can hear the motor working harder.So in answer to your question: No. do not get the 350 kv motor unless you weigh 100 pounds sopping wet. Stick with the general 170-280 rule. Again, 230 seems like it would be a god medium between speed and some solid power behind you, though I cant say from experience yet; I just got two 230kvs from torqueboards, but have yet to try them outAlso, if its speed you want, higher kv is not always the best. Higher kv motors will just lack the power to rotate at the kv speeds. for example, my board with a 280 kv motor, running on 6S, by calculations, should go 22.9 mph, but it goes tops 18-19, in part because motor efficiency lost (in the for of heat/some noise) but also from the lack of motor strength.Now, you will never get a 100% efficient motor, but you can certainly help top speed by moving your kv DOWN and ramping your gearing UP. I have heard that balances things out quite nicely.a 190 kv motor, while turns slower then a 280, will turn with more power and will be less affected by the burden of the 180lb person riding it. Then its just a matter of gearing to find that happy medium. :DHowever, there IS a way you can use upwards 500 kv motors, and that's with a dual setup.Two 500kv motors, theoretically, turn twice as fast as a single 250 motor, but will still have around the same amount of power, as there are two of them vs the one 250 kv motor.This way, you can ramp of the kv with two motor drive, but still have around the same power (theoretically) of a motor half the kv of one of those motors.This is definatly a theory I need to try some time, but that time unfortunately, is not now.So sure, if you wanted to nearly double the cost of building a board, go dual motor setup, with higher kv.Sorry for the lengthy reply, I was bored :PAnyway, I hope that helps! Feel free to comment/message me any more questions you might have, I am quite happy to share what knowledge I have on the subject of E-boards!Enjoy, and happy DIY!-C.R

Congrats! Looks like a very clean build. You don't have to make an enclosure yourself. You can just find a Walmart or something and find one of those small clear plastic sorting boxes with the removable spacers. I heard they work great height wise!Also, be sure to let the fan on the ESC spin/get air. I accidently burned my old ESC out when I plugged the fan up; believing it was 'too noisy' Not doing THAT again xDAnyway, enjoy your board, and remember, safety first!