Dannlh

LOL! Same way I feel about my Blynk apps!Maybe you could screw the bowls to the Lazy Susan, then number them and give everyone a blynk app so when they want something they could press the number? 🤣

Do you give everyone at the table the Blynk app then?

Mr Tumnus?

Looks like the kids have fun! Nice project! Now ask them how they can use a motor driving a wheel to do the rowing for them! (Hint put a peg on the wheel and attach it to the arm) good way to get them thinking about how to turn circular motion into linear motion.

John, It looks like in the original Pop Mech article the screen doesn't wrap to the point where it covers the hopper opening at all. Its just on the underside. Did you design yours differently for a reason? Thanks,Dan

https://www.aliexpress.com/i/4000613709680.html

Next, mic and audio generated patterns including some lips that follow the audio. 🙂

Nice! (You need more tools!) Next, epoxy the floor, and stop painting it! 😂🤣

Wow! Great instructable! You've got my first favorite. I am finishing a 1m x 1m OX CNC and was wondering what to do with the chips after I make something. This is a perfect way to recycle. Thanks!

Thread resurection... A couple ideas. 1) I like the outside foil contact idea someone else had. I would take it one step further: no battery inside. Just touch a 9v battery to the contacts when you want to open it.2) emergency release could just be a small hole drilled through the pages on the edge of the book where the lock is. Insert a paperclip and you're in. Discreet enough it won't be obvious or noticed.

Hmm, most people under 30 don't know how to use a rotary dial! 🤣

Nice project! Try printing with glow in the dark filament, then use a UV LED light strip to charge the segments. :-)

I assume your microwaves are also 240 input? If so, then yes output is still series. Use less windings on output and bigger wire.If microwave is 110/120v on an adapter then you also need to series inputs of two microwave transformers together in addition to outputs.

Did you use 10 gauge wire? Use bigger gauge wire. E.g. 8 or 6.Check number of turns. Reduce the number of windings.Heat is caused by too much current. You cannot use this continually to weld. You need to take a break and let it cool for a while.As stoobers said, you can add a third transformer by following the schematic. Just remove ground clamp or rod clamp and put third xfrmr in series with first two then connect clamp to third xfrmr. (Remove a few windings from all transformers. E.g. make each xfrmr 15 turns.)See my scribble.

That Curta project is amazing! Thanks for that link.The first time I saw a sock machine was in Wigwam Mills in Sheboygan Wisconsin. The big automatic versions of these are really amazing to watch too!

Two comments on this. One, what a wonderful job you did restoring that machine! And two, isn't it just amazing someone figured out how to build that in the first place?

You'd be surprised how quickly the UV from the sun will degrade the bottles, and most plastics for that matter.

Nice project!I live in the snow belt/arctic cold area in Wisconsin USA. I think for here I would agree with the person who said, paint the conduit black, (I would pack the conduit with sand for heat retention) and I too would put the bottles centered in the 2x4s. Lastly I would cover the outside with plastic sheet for a wind break, and make sure there is an opening in the bottom bottle of each column of bottles and a hole in the top bottle so that air could flow up the column drawing cool air in the bottom, heating it and expelling warm air at the top of each column of bottles. Might want to make sure the roof could open on one half (old door hinges) to allow excess heat out when it's not needed.

Those of you mentioning not running your furnace, most furnaces that are forced air do not draw very much power. It is just a blower that you are running on your system. Just don't turn on the Air Conditioning. Boiler systems run a pump which will draw a bit more power and electric heat systems... Well... Just don't for electric systems.

To be able to feed power into the utility you need to monitor the line and if the utility line goes down, your system is required to stop feeding power into it. This is an automatic process built into line feeding devices.

Nice robot!Reminds me of electro which was also a "script" robot. It sensed syllables said at a specific cadence. https://youtu.be/AuyTRbj8QSA

Very cool! Needs a de-skittl8r at the bottom to erase and redraw automatically. Hmmm video at 5 minutes per frame?

So did you wear this out in public for any length of time? Is so, what were people's reactions to it?

Cool project! There are some cool glass ash necklaces/urns and other ash jewelry vials that would probably work well with this project. Just google glass ash necklace.

Nice project! I used to love building these when I was a kid.I had an erector set, and this was one of my favorite things to build. I would try to build it as long as I could. Learned a lot about flex in the metal, and play in the bolts and how they affected the grabber as it got longer. Imagine this 15' long in metal! No wait don't... it was floppy and wiggled everywhere and had no grip power at the gripper end... Well It was fun anyway! I wish kids minds were challenged these days with more projects like this instead of mindless electronic games. Building this out of inexpensive or free things is definitely a great way to go! Thanks for the project!

Very well written warning. I applaud you for taking the time to write it and taking heed of the warnings. p.s. The quip about the "open frame laser engravers" made me lol. Yes. One moment of my stupidity. Clicked START then put on the glasses. Instead of putting on the glasses then clicking START. And I know the dangers. I know better.I was lucky. The damage looks like it does having a small curly hair in your vision like a spec of dust. I only notice it when looking at screens with a white background.Thanks again for the warning.

Nice project! I might try building this I've needed a function gen a couple times now and this would be handy.One suggestion on the steps...."cut off the Arduino micro-USB area with a grinding file"rephrase that as:"cut a hole in the case for the Arduino micro-USB area with a grinding file"I had to read it three times because I thought you wanted me to cut off the USB connector at first! LOL!

I had one of these as a kid about 35 years ago. Eventually the surface started to wear out and being a kid I didn't know how it worked so I opened it and tried some grease where it wasn't working... yuck what a mess that made. So NOW I know how to fix it!!! Hmmm what box is that in?

Cool. Stick a dowel in opposite corners it will keep it aligned.

Beautiful project! Don't forget to tilt your axis for the planets in relation to the Sun! Really, really well done!!! Congratulations!And one question. Can you easily remove the rotating rings for the planets to set them for any date? (e.g. make them match the current positions of the planets today?)

Isn't formalin extremely poisonous and dangerous for inhalation, absorption or accidental ingestion?

Thank you so much for creating the original instructable! It was what motivated me to create this one. You were definitely right about "keep sewing for what seems like forever." And I did half the pockets you did!

I just finished this for my wife. 4 hours sewing and filling. I used a twin sheet folded in half. Makes it about the size of a normal throw blanket. Channels were a bit wider, and since there was a repeating pattern on the sheet I did't need markings to sew the channels.Calculation for fill is weight/number of pockets. This gives you weight of filler per pocket. We did 45 Grams, 147 pockets for about 15lb blanket.Bought 20lbs of these pellets for $30. ReachTherapy Solutions High Density Plastic Pellets for Weighted Blankets, Lap Pads, Toys, Cornhole and Eye Spy Bags - Non Toxic and Washer Safe - (10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F2M25HQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_JBpxwuf372oVgI'll post my "I made it" photos tomorrow.

I remember doing this when I was young and poor! Now I'm old and poor. But when I did it, I put on my welding gear full mask, jacket, gloves, hat then heated it with the propane torch and gave the board a WHACK on a brick on one edge of the board. Did it outside in the garage. Easy to sweep up the solder after plenty of ventilation. And much faster than trying to pull individual components out. rarely if ever burned a board and it only took a few seconds to remove components. As far as overheating, I usually just ran the components in my test jig to make sure they were still ok. People saying "You'll put too much heat into the component and they will burn out!" Either have not tried this or are just following what they believe are the "rules" of electronics. The young …

I remember doing this when I was young and poor! Now I'm old and poor. But when I did it, I put on my welding gear full mask, jacket, gloves, hat then heated it with the propane torch and gave the board a WHACK on a brick on one edge of the board. Did it outside in the garage. Easy to sweep up the solder after plenty of ventilation. And much faster than trying to pull individual components out. rarely if ever burned a board and it only took a few seconds to remove components. As far as overheating, I usually just ran the components in my test jig to make sure they were still ok. People saying "You'll put too much heat into the component and they will burn out!" Either have not tried this or are just following what they believe are the "rules" of electronics. The young man knows the rules, but the old man knows the exceptions. Oliver Wendell Holmes, Sr.:-)Nice instructable!

I second that! All in favor say "I"

Really Nice! You might want to consider replacing the fan cover with a large gear with intricate internal cut-outs...

The Fcc won't bother you if you are just tweaking the hotspot for your antenna. You won't be on the band long enough. And at low power you won't really be causing much, if any, interference with anyone. Just make sure the band is clear around where you're doing it. Its not like you're sweeping hundreds and hundreds of KHz up or down the whole band. The point is to find the sweet-spot in your tuning. Usually the dip is pretty close to where your analyzer finds it.

Hey dr phil,Nice project!You wont need a key. There should be a mode on your rig called "tune". This will create and transmit a cw (continous wave carrier, not morse) signal the whole time it is turned on. This will let you tune the antenna to the rig and look for that dip. And remember, just tune for minimum smoke.Dannlh

Um, that actually would be the tune button to the right of your vfo knob in your photo! :-)

Reminds me of giant super calender paper machine filled rolls. They fill a steel core up with disks of paper or cotton, then press them together in a huge screw press, effectively making the paper bond into a single piece, and then use a lathe to finish them. Similar process to this pen!The difference is, its a bit more dangerous to run the lathe down the roll, and when these rolls are spun up to speed on the machine if there is a hollow spot inside it can throw a chunk out of the roll that is like a chunk of rock! WATCH OUT! LOLI like your project. Nice pen. Roll Lathe Finishing:http://www.jjplank.com/App_Uploads_Img/Products/Ba...Loading the (blue) disks onto a steel roll to be pressed. (guy on platform puts them on top of roll, then heavy disk is lowered on cables (see near top with so…

Reminds me of giant super calender paper machine filled rolls. They fill a steel core up with disks of paper or cotton, then press them together in a huge screw press, effectively making the paper bond into a single piece, and then use a lathe to finish them. Similar process to this pen!The difference is, its a bit more dangerous to run the lathe down the roll, and when these rolls are spun up to speed on the machine if there is a hollow spot inside it can throw a chunk out of the roll that is like a chunk of rock! WATCH OUT! LOLI like your project. Nice pen. Roll Lathe Finishing:http://www.jjplank.com/App_Uploads_Img/Products/Ba...Loading the (blue) disks onto a steel roll to be pressed. (guy on platform puts them on top of roll, then heavy disk is lowered on cables (see near top with some blue just under it) to press down the disks into the stack. Then the very top of the press (Big steel part at the very top) comes down by spinning the two black screw columns putting the paper or cloth on the core under tons of pressure squeezing the disks together.http://www.jjplank.com/App_Uploads_Img/Products/Ba...

I was thinking of drilling some smaller holes on the edge of the paper in the "box" area and the cover pages then dropping in some neodymium magnets for a way to help it stay closed.E.g. flip the top 4 or 5 pages of the box pages up and drill shallow 1/4" holes through remaining box pages. Drop in glue and magnets and finish gluing the box pages down.Keep 4 or 5 pages loose on the top cover pages, drill matching holes through the remaining cover pages. Drop in glue and magnets, glue cover pages together. Close book, cover stays closed because of magnets, no visible change to the book. Make sure your magnets are lined up before you drop them in by sticking them together and drawing a line down one edge with a marker for orientation reference or you may end up making a book t…

I was thinking of drilling some smaller holes on the edge of the paper in the "box" area and the cover pages then dropping in some neodymium magnets for a way to help it stay closed.E.g. flip the top 4 or 5 pages of the box pages up and drill shallow 1/4" holes through remaining box pages. Drop in glue and magnets and finish gluing the box pages down.Keep 4 or 5 pages loose on the top cover pages, drill matching holes through the remaining cover pages. Drop in glue and magnets, glue cover pages together. Close book, cover stays closed because of magnets, no visible change to the book. Make sure your magnets are lined up before you drop them in by sticking them together and drawing a line down one edge with a marker for orientation reference or you may end up making a book that can't ever be closed!

As you probably know already, it ultimately all comes down to surface area with solar panels. More surface more power. Something like the MicroSolar - 30w Solar Charger Kit (minus the charge controller) would be better for charging the battery out in the field, however you give up some portability to gain increased power output. A fold-up portable panel could also increase surface area and maintain portability at some weight gain. However, many of the fold-up panels are not weatherproof, so you need to make sure to keep them out of the rain. In price vs output vs size panel poly vs mono cells is really a non-issue at this size of panel. Buy the highest wattage you can afford with the smallest form factor you can use. I usually buy based on wattage I want to use (determined by load, batte…

As you probably know already, it ultimately all comes down to surface area with solar panels. More surface more power. Something like the MicroSolar - 30w Solar Charger Kit (minus the charge controller) would be better for charging the battery out in the field, however you give up some portability to gain increased power output. A fold-up portable panel could also increase surface area and maintain portability at some weight gain. However, many of the fold-up panels are not weatherproof, so you need to make sure to keep them out of the rain. In price vs output vs size panel poly vs mono cells is really a non-issue at this size of panel. Buy the highest wattage you can afford with the smallest form factor you can use. I usually buy based on wattage I want to use (determined by load, battery size, and recovery time I need) and reviews saying it is a good quality panel that meets specs on Amazon.

I like the project, but... FUSES! For all power input sources. Or a short could turn this into a little pile of plastic goo. And make sure your charge controller doesn't overheat. How warm does it get while running? You may need to leave the cover open which will eliminate the splash resistance...

Hi Nathan,The fuse is for protecting from "OH SH.T I DIDN'T EVEN THINK OF THAT HAPPENING!" and you usually mount it next to the battery B+ terminal or as close as possible. Because, you know, coins never fall into cigarette lighter sockets... and charge controllers never catastrophically fail...and terminals and wires never get bent and short out... ;-)For the heating testing you need to go with worst-case scenario. You might not overload it, but if someone else builds this they might... Your inverter is rated at 300W and it has a fan in it for cooling so you could load it up to 300W with light bulbs and make sure it's trying to charge the main battery at the same time with the solar panel then check the temp in the box. The SLA won't overheat, but the inverter and charge contr…

Hi Nathan,The fuse is for protecting from "OH SH.T I DIDN'T EVEN THINK OF THAT HAPPENING!" and you usually mount it next to the battery B+ terminal or as close as possible. Because, you know, coins never fall into cigarette lighter sockets... and charge controllers never catastrophically fail...and terminals and wires never get bent and short out... ;-)For the heating testing you need to go with worst-case scenario. You might not overload it, but if someone else builds this they might... Your inverter is rated at 300W and it has a fan in it for cooling so you could load it up to 300W with light bulbs and make sure it's trying to charge the main battery at the same time with the solar panel then check the temp in the box. The SLA won't overheat, but the inverter and charge controller can.Final note on the panel...its not big enough to charge a 20AH battery...well it could...after about a week or two of sunny days. You need something that puts out a higher amperage if you need faster recovery.Still, a nice clean build! Dan

Bravo Gusito!Cambia el " If/Else " por " If / Else If / Else " para adicionar una tercera opcion para el nuevo boton. If ..ButtonHexCodeTest.. { //Button1 On ..code} Else If ..ButtonHexCodeTest..{ //Button2 Off ..code} Else //Button3 SirenOn if(String(results.value,HEX)=="ThirdButtonHexCodeHere") { //Check if siren/Panic button pressed Serial.println("Siren On "); for (int AlmCount=0; AlmCount <= 10; AlmCount++){//Loop siren 10 times unless another button pressed. Adjust AlmCount if needed, or just remove for continuous siren(); //TURN ON THE SIREN!!! delay(1000);//Delay between alarms and also de-bounce the button so we don't read it twice by accident. //Ch…

Bravo Gusito!Cambia el " If/Else " por " If / Else If / Else " para adicionar una tercera opcion para el nuevo boton. If ..ButtonHexCodeTest.. { //Button1 On ..code} Else If ..ButtonHexCodeTest..{ //Button2 Off ..code} Else //Button3 SirenOn if(String(results.value,HEX)=="ThirdButtonHexCodeHere") { //Check if siren/Panic button pressed Serial.println("Siren On "); for (int AlmCount=0; AlmCount <= 10; AlmCount++){//Loop siren 10 times unless another button pressed. Adjust AlmCount if needed, or just remove for continuous siren(); //TURN ON THE SIREN!!! delay(1000);//Delay between alarms and also de-bounce the button so we don't read it twice by accident. //CheckForButtonPressHere if (irrecv.decode(&results)) AlmCount=10; //If the button was pressed stop the alarm until we check which button it is. } } // NOTA: Buscar aqui el formato de comando If/Else: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/Else // Por favor entiende que el codigo de arriba es un pseudo codigo incompleto. Vas a necesitar hacer los cambios apropiados para que pueda funcionar, pero te estoy dando una estructura basica. Camila

Bravo Gusito!Cambia el " If/Else " por " If / Else If / Else " para adicionar una tercera opcion para el nuevo boton.If ..ButtonHexCodeTest.. { //Button1 On ..code}Else If ..ButtonHexCodeTest..{ //Button2 Off ..code}Else //Button3 SirenOn if(String(results.value,HEX)=="ThirdButtonHexCodeHere") { //Check if siren/Panic button pressedSerial.println("Siren On ");for (int AlmCount=0; AlmCount <= 10; AlmCount++){//Loop siren 10 times unless another button pressed. Adjust AlmCount if needed, or just remove for continuoussiren(); //TURN ON THE SIREN!!!delay(1000);//Delay between alarms and also de-bounce the button so we don't read it twice by accident.//CheckForButt…

Bravo Gusito!Cambia el " If/Else " por " If / Else If / Else " para adicionar una tercera opcion para el nuevo boton.If ..ButtonHexCodeTest.. { //Button1 On ..code}Else If ..ButtonHexCodeTest..{ //Button2 Off ..code}Else //Button3 SirenOn if(String(results.value,HEX)=="ThirdButtonHexCodeHere") { //Check if siren/Panic button pressedSerial.println("Siren On ");for (int AlmCount=0; AlmCount <= 10; AlmCount++){//Loop siren 10 times unless another button pressed. Adjust AlmCount if needed, or just remove for continuoussiren(); //TURN ON THE SIREN!!!delay(1000);//Delay between alarms and also de-bounce the button so we don't read it twice by accident.//CheckForButtonPressHereif (irrecv.decode(&results)) AlmCount=10; //If the button was pressed stop the alarm until we check which button it is. } } // NOTA: Buscar aqui el formato de comando If/Else: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/Else // Por favor entiende que el codigo de arriba es un pseudo codigo incompleto. Vas a necesitar hacer los cambios apropiados para que pueda funcionar, pero te estoy dando una estructura basica.

Tus codigos HEX probablemente no coinciden con los codigos en el programa. Cada control remoto IR envia codigos diferentes.Use la biblioteca MySensors de GitHub para determinar los codigos que envia cada boton en tu control remoto. Hay un ejemplo de IrSensor en la biblioteca con lo que se puede hacer esto.Reemplace los codigos HEX en las lineas que se ven asi: if((String(results.value,HEX)=="962814ca") && (alarm)){ // Check is OFF button and alarm is ON if((String(results.value,HEX)=="8d2a4baf") && !(alarm)){ // Check is ON button and alarm is OFFCon los codigos HEX de los botones de tu control remoto que quieras usar para "on" y "off"Camila

Actually that's a piece of exposed and developed film... The exposed and developed film will appear to be black, but is actually transparent to IR.

How about two momentary switches. One for each hand.