David Hoskins

Don't sweat it. Everything was easy enough to understand and your spelling and grammar are better than most Americans that I know.

And the late 70's isn't THAT long ago!

I agree. I'm going to start using this technique instead of ordering cheap custom pcb's.Instant gratification and I are old friends.

I wonder if you could repurpose an old power steering pump instead of buying a pump off eBay?

You most certainly can make a digital backup of physical media that you own. That has been settled for a very long time. (Like pre Napster)You get in trouble or breach the copyright when you distribute it too others. You don't even have to be the one who rips it. If you own the physical media you can download a torrent of the media you already own. What gets you in trouble is the BitTorrent programs uploading of the file while you download. It's a nuanced yet critical point from a legal perspective.

Not exactly, your battery/alternator will still run the exact same amount just to recharge the cap instead of powering your device directly.The ONLY thing a capacitor does is keep your headlights from dimming every time the bass hits. It does this at the expense of audio quality so unless your headlights are dimming enough to bother you all a cap will do is make your stereo sound worse.There is a really long thread on this topic over on crutchfield where a couple of electrical engineers explain in much more detail than I can. If you need me to I can dig up the link, if you Google "car audio capacitor" it should be one of the first results.

There is no way aluminum is going to be stronger than those oak pallet beams. Maybe an allow in the 7xxx range could be nearly as strong but that would run you more than just buying one from Amazon or eBay.It isn't just the tensile strength either. Aluminum gets considerably weaker as it is flexed back and forth until it gives. Either an oak or any pallet that has HT stamped on it is going to out last your car I guarantee it.Now steel would be another story strength wise, however weight is a concern and there is really no need to lug around the amount of dead weight that comes with steel.

Hfransson is correct. The thermostat from the heater should be removed and replaced with the relay preferably, or at the least turned all the way up and the knob removed.Otherwise you'll wind up with a relay closed but the heater not running and I can't imagine the heater cycling on and off while the relay is energized and closed is going to do it any good.

what type of varnish and/or clear coat did you use to finish it?I'm just about done with a test prop for my ultralight and want to make sure I use the right finish.

I wonder if you were to put a divider between the exit and the ice with either a flapper, or maybe small holes on the bottom if you could get it to cool down another degree or two?I'm not sure, but it may restrict the air flow too much to make it a better practical solution than the one you already have.