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I might try this with a hole saw - should save a fair bit of time. I have one that makes holes about 4" and 3.5" diameter. Drill out the big one, then clamp the circle offcut and drill out the smaller one, using the same guide hole. Should work... (touch wood!)
I think it would be a good idea to make some lengths of cord to set up the stakes. I think it should be possible to have one length with two small loops 14’ apart to set up the first two stakes and then another length of cord with three loops at 20’ and 24’ 5” apart for setting up the next. Would save some bother with measuring tape and drawing arcs that intersect.
I did this a couple of years ago and it worked brilliantly. Then I tried it again a couple of weeks ago and it failed miserably... :-( and I don't know why. I'm sure I used even finer wire wool this time, so it should have worked better, not worse? Any ideas from the worldwide audience?
The idea of a water-turbine is good. For some reason it reminds me of how energy was first shown to be convertible between different forms by James Prescott Joule in the mid-1800's. He heated water by spinning a perforated paddle-wheel and showed that the mechanical energy put in matched the heat energy generated - If I remember my ancient Physics classes - which seem almost as long ago as the mid-1800's to me now :-)
Fascinating! I guess you have to put more energy into the motor than you get out as heat in the pan, so it wouldn't be an energy-saving measure. But I wonder if it would be possible with a wind or water-powered turbine to heat a pan this way? How fast was the motor spinning to get the heating effects that you experienced?
Sorry - I just saw the answer to my question - 1600rpm
Brilliant! And in a survival situation, you could use a magnet from inside some headphones.When calibrating it using another compass, make sure that you have the other compass far enough away that the magnetic fields don't interfere with each other.
I make this kind of glider too, but I use pizza bases (supermarket pizzas). Already flat and easy to draw out and decorate
Good tips, thanks.I look at hiking poles as almost like having a hand-rail built into the mountain. You can steady yourself when the ground is uneven, pull yourself up when you need to make a steep step, and lessen the impact when having to make a steep step down.
The wood looked slightly 'diseased' (sorry - not meant to be a criticism, adds to the rustic charm) but I guess that may allow some of the stresses from the drying out to relieve themselves without cracking. I watched a demonstration of 'bodging' (ancient method of making objects like table and chair legs out of forest timber) and the first thing the guy did was take a large log, then split it into wedge-shaped quarters using a 'froe' (lovely old tool). Then he laboriously made those quarters into rough cylinders before turning them on the primitive lathe. One of the kids I was with asked the obvious question "Why not start with smaller branches as they are already almost the correct circular cross section and diameter?" - but the reason was that the way circular logs dry out...
The wood looked slightly 'diseased' (sorry - not meant to be a criticism, adds to the rustic charm) but I guess that may allow some of the stresses from the drying out to relieve themselves without cracking. I watched a demonstration of 'bodging' (ancient method of making objects like table and chair legs out of forest timber) and the first thing the guy did was take a large log, then split it into wedge-shaped quarters using a 'froe' (lovely old tool). Then he laboriously made those quarters into rough cylinders before turning them on the primitive lathe. One of the kids I was with asked the obvious question "Why not start with smaller branches as they are already almost the correct circular cross section and diameter?" - but the reason was that the way circular logs dry out - from the outside first - means that they end up splitting. The outer layers dry out and try to shrink, but they are prevented from shrinking by the inner parts that are still damp, so the only way for it to happen is for the wood to split in radial lines.
Many years ago I had a bike with a purpose-built dynamo (6V @ 3A, AC). I rigged it with rectifiers and a three-way switch so I could charge up my lights during the day and have them good and bright, even when I stopped at junctions. This was a long time ago - before LED lights - so batteries for normal bike lights never lasted long.But after running fine for about three months I suddenly had a blow-out. The dynamo had worn through the tire sidewall.
In fact it was one of these: http://munk.org/typecast/2016/11/19/the-handwriting-drawing-typewriter-brother-type-o-graph-bp-30-with-user-manual/
About 35 years ago, I had a commercial one of these - made by Brother, the typewriter people - it was basically a typewriter that used small ballpoint pens to draw the letters, and if I remember correctly, it could change font sizes (but not the font itself). It could also draw simple bar charts, pie charts, line graphs, etc. But after a few years it was impossible to find refills for the pens (this was pre-internet!)So well done for making a more usable version :-D
Any easy way to do this with a slotted screw apart from making a new slot like your Step 4? I had one where the head had broke in half. I tried drilling a hole for a screw extractor but it just disintegrated leaving a little stump sticking out. Luckily I didn't need to reuse the same screw hole so I used a 'Manchester screwdriver' (aka a hammer) to bury the stump into the wood.
This is a really good idea. I wonder if it would be possible to make it adjustable, so you could use chisels of different widths? So instead of gluing it together you could bolt it. And use a different thickness of wood for the sole part to match each chisel?
There is a modular origami version of this by an English man called David Brill - a 'double-star flexicube' - https://brilliantorigami.com/diagrams/It makes two of these which can nest inside each other - which I guess you could do with this also.
You can make 'char-cloth' in the same way. Char-cloth is like charcoal, but made out of cotton cloth - like a piece of old jeans fabric, or an old cotton t-shirt. It's great for lighting fires in survival-type situations. You can get a great big hot ember easily from a spark or a magnifying glass.