Durss

I'm really not sure i'll publish it i must be honnest :/And i won't have the time to finish it in the near future so even if i do so, it won't be anytime "soon" haha :)But if i do so, i'll ping all the people interested for sure :)

Hello,As explained in Step 1 i bought it on a local store.If you read my answer to FrankB118 you'll get more details :)

I actually made a new version with a 100% laser cut mechanism but haven't published it (yet?). So it's totally doable. I did something quite complexe but you could totally do it in a simpler way i think.You can get more details on my answer to RickJN below.And here is a picture :)

Hello Alwyn !Thank you for your kind an appreciated comment :)I just added an SVG export of the AI file in the step 2. Just be aware that it's a degraded version of what the .AI provides. No artboards, no dark background, and maybe other stuff not perfect. But you should get everything needed :)

Hello Rick !Good catch ! It's all my fault no worries.I just fixed it you can download it again ;)Can't wait to see how things go for you ! If you have any question/issue don't hesitate to ask for my help !You would be the first to build something i've shared on Instructable and i'm pretty excited about this :DThe main thing i would advise is not to bother with the grooves on the back of the top layer and remove the "waves" from the 4 sliders. They're supposed to work together to create "steps" when moving the sliders but it doesn't work well and it can be pretty hard to move the sliders more than anything... I haven't found a solution to this problem yet :(BTW i quite changed the design of this box since this article. I mainly removed the locker for something 100% las…

Hello Rick !Good catch ! It's all my fault no worries.I just fixed it you can download it again ;)Can't wait to see how things go for you ! If you have any question/issue don't hesitate to ask for my help !You would be the first to build something i've shared on Instructable and i'm pretty excited about this :DThe main thing i would advise is not to bother with the grooves on the back of the top layer and remove the "waves" from the 4 sliders. They're supposed to work together to create "steps" when moving the sliders but it doesn't work well and it can be pretty hard to move the sliders more than anything... I haven't found a solution to this problem yet :(BTW i quite changed the design of this box since this article. I mainly removed the locker for something 100% laser cut with some gears, and something that blocks the key hole untile everything is solved. But i'm still not 100% satisfied so i haven't shared anything yet ^^I attached pictures of it if you're curious ;)I realize i still haven't explained how to solve the box.. I'll do that as soon as i have some time :)Anyways, best of luck for your build ! Can't wait to see the result :D

Hehe sadly this project died when the USB port broke. I tried to replace it just 2 weeks ago but made a shortcut and probably fried the Arduino ahem..Thank you for you very kind and appreciated comments :D !!

Thank youuuu :D

Thank you. Your comment.voting/fav are very appreciated :D

There's a big store in paris calle BHV where we can find loooads of different things. I found the lock here (for 15€...). I had to saw a part of it btw so it fits in the 9mm height.I searched on Amazon (france) but couldn't find a single suitable lock.There's this on aliexpress that might be suitable after some trimming :https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/Classic-Vintage-Fur...You'd just ahve to review the box design so it fits the shape of this specific lock.But to me, my design with this "real" keylock is flawed. We can litterally break the box by simply closing it if we don't think about pushing a bar inside the box before that :/. I'm thinking of a new design with a full wooden lock system so it's easier to make adn that wouldn't break the box if not used in the right order :)I …

There's a big store in paris calle BHV where we can find loooads of different things. I found the lock here (for 15€...). I had to saw a part of it btw so it fits in the 9mm height.I searched on Amazon (france) but couldn't find a single suitable lock.There's this on aliexpress that might be suitable after some trimming :https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/Classic-Vintage-Fur...You'd just ahve to review the box design so it fits the shape of this specific lock.But to me, my design with this "real" keylock is flawed. We can litterally break the box by simply closing it if we don't think about pushing a bar inside the box before that :/. I'm thinking of a new design with a full wooden lock system so it's easier to make adn that wouldn't break the box if not used in the right order :)I also want the key hole to be closed by another system until the second symbol sequence is found.Right now we find the key at maybe 30% of the resolution time, we use it right away and forget about it. I don't like this. I'd prefer if we used it only at the end as the LAST step for opening the box :DI don't know when nor if i'll succeed doing this, but i hope i will :D

I own a similar kind of box (a himitsu bako)I like this kind of boxes but to me it lacks some thinking. Im a Myst/Riven kid and i loooooOOooove having to look and understand clues in order to know how to solve a box. More than just random manipulations to more or less understand the inner mechanics of it. I haven't found much boxes like these so far :/The only one i actually know is this crowdfunding i've been waiting to receive for too long (if i ever receive it..) :https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/crypted-puzzles...If you know some i'd love to get links !! :DThank you very much for sharing !!

I spent something like a month (not full time don't worry haha) on just the Illustrator measuring stuff to the millimeter i'd say. I failed 3 boxes but i spent the whole weekend before the end of the contest building the box shown in this article (except some final surprises i fixed in my article in the meantime ^^). I spent maybe 6-7h on the article so i spent way more time on the designing/building !But, indeed, removing the hinges is far faster haha :pThanks you for your compliments :D

I'd really love to be able to sell these but i'm not yet happy enough about the result. I'm gonna try to build a V2 without the problems and with a wooden key lockfirst :). Plus, i leave in france so shopping costs might be expansive :/I'll let you know if someday i feel happy enough with the result to sell it :)

I'd really love to be able to sell these but i'm not yet happy enough with the quality. I'm gonna try to build a V2 without the problems and with a wooden keylock first :). Plus, i leave in france so shopping costs might be expansive :/I'll let you know if someday i feel happy enough with the result to sell it :)

As long as you're not in a rush to use that equipment...

Not as documented as I wish it was (lack of time to participate Puzzle contest) but glad to read that thank you 😊

You may like my first instructable as well then :)https://www.instructables.com/Password-protected-sketchbook/Glad you like this one :D

Technically this could be 3D printed as well i gues. I originally wanted to create both wood and plastic version but i gave up with the plastic one. The simplest way would be to simply extrude the SVG files in 3mm or 6mm depending on the pieces and it should work.I'm not sure about the engraving though...After tests by friends i just dicovered there was a mistake with a clue which i just fixed. I just updated the files of the "Step 14: Cutting Lid Sides" so it's properly solvable :)Thank you for your kind comment !

Not as documented as I wish it was (lack of time to participate Puzzle contest) but glad to read that thank you :)

You're welcome ! Can't wait to see how it goes for you ;)Remember the wood must be as smooth as possible so it slips properly inside :)

Good catch :DAdded !Thank you :)

I forgot to mention the video that inspired me, but in this video you can see how it actually works inside if you wish :)https://youtu.be/VJ1Hv339CgQ?t=5m58s

It will depend on your motor.The one i put here is 6180rmp and must be powered at 6V? Min max being 4.5V to 15V. I power it from the Vin of the arduino so it depends on the power given to the arduino. My power supply is 12V.Just one thing, if i try to run it full speed it actually locks. That's why you'll see a :analogWrite(motorPin, 200);And not :analogWrite(motorPin, 255);I didn't dig to understand why...

Tell me more about what you wanna know because for me the product sheet the wiring and the code is all that matters but maybe i missed something :)

Telle me more about what you wanna know because for me the product sheet the wiring and the code is all that matters but maybe i missed something :)

Don't try to understand what could have happend in my brain to make this.. ;).You can already see the build with the video at top if you wish :)

Oh... I really like that idea ! Way smater than mine :P !It can definitely be done to do that. It would just be a totally different mechanism.Also, it's a bit complicated to extract a coherent BAC value from the sensor. In my case i more or less simply considered that the higher the value, the drunker the person is. But the value isn't linear at all so it's not completely meaningfull.Still i like your idea and will think about it, would love to make that !

Thanks :)