EdChamberlain

That is somewhat correct. It looks like you are in the captive portal to configure the network settings. It has been a while since I did this but I believe you need to connect it to your network before you can access the full webGUI to edit settings. Select configure Wifi and connect it to your wifi first. Then visit the webgui through your router.

I'm not able to help you with that I'm afraid as the IP address will depend entirely on your network setup and is likely allocated through DHCP so will not stay the same. The IP will be different to that which you see on the captive portal. The first option to try is logging into your router/hub and seeing if that can tell you what IP has been allocated. Your hub is most likely at 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.1.255 or will be noted on the hub itself.Failing that you can try scanning from it from your PC using `arp -a` in terminal or powershell (the windows output is less useful). This will list all of the IPs on your network, from which you can find the one you want. The Hue light will show up with some reference to hue or ESP in its hostname.

I think the Instructables formatting messed your post up a little! You can define your pins in the firmware prior to flashing but this isn't necessary as you can (once the firmware is flashed) adjust the pin mapping though the web gui at runtime.

Thats the IP of the raspberry pi! You can access the settings for the individual lights at the wemos IP.

They really turned out a lot better than expected! They make film nights or late night gaming much more enjoyable! Im about to order a second batch of boards to make some more!

Thanks! Im glad you liked it!

Hi Daniel!Im glad you liked the project! I saw your project just after posting mine and really like what you've done with the app.I really like the Wemos boards, they’re really versatile and so small but they dont support bluetooth on their own so you're right that you would need to have a bluetooth module to go with it. I would imagine that your bluetooth module would work with the Wemos and it should be pretty straightforward to port your code since they are also programmed in the Arduino IDE but I haven't tried it. Unless you are going to make use of the wifi capabilities I would stick with the Nano for simplicity. While the ESP based wemos board look similar to the nano there are some caveats when it comes to using the GPIO pins which makes it a little more tricky than the nano. If yo…

Hi Daniel!Im glad you liked the project! I saw your project just after posting mine and really like what you've done with the app.I really like the Wemos boards, they’re really versatile and so small but they dont support bluetooth on their own so you're right that you would need to have a bluetooth module to go with it. I would imagine that your bluetooth module would work with the Wemos and it should be pretty straightforward to port your code since they are also programmed in the Arduino IDE but I haven't tried it. Unless you are going to make use of the wifi capabilities I would stick with the Nano for simplicity. While the ESP based wemos board look similar to the nano there are some caveats when it comes to using the GPIO pins which makes it a little more tricky than the nano. If youre looking for a slightly larger board with more GPIO you could also have a look at the NodeMCU which I have used before with a lot of success!I went down the route of using the Wemos as I was set on using wifi instead of bluetooth since you get a slightly better range and can control it from the network which opens it up to Siri, Alexa, Google Assistant and control anywhere in the world! The other advantage I see is you could do away with your RTC module and collect time from a time server so you wouldn't have to worry about the clock drift at all!Let me know how you get on!

Great instructabale. I like the "Pink Floyd” inspired design!

Hi! I built this supply several years ago and am looking to use it again for a new project (since its so great!) Im looking to use SMD parts to make it a bit smaller but am concerned about the voltage rating for some of the resistors. It seems that both R15 and R36 will both need to be rated for high voltages - will a 200 V rating be sufficient?

They sure are! If you give them a go let me know how they go!

Yep! I wanted to keep the printer buildable from parts that you can source without a machine shop so limited myself to extrusions, printed parts, and off the shelf parts.Ive heard a lot of people are happy with the Mega-X. It amazes me how budget printers are improving at such a rate. 5 years ago we didn’t have any options that good at that price point!

I have made a set of these using LED bulbs before and they are great at giving the same effect in a much more energy efficient way! In my instructable I suggest an LED variant from amazon which I think looks really nice thanks to the spiralling ‘filament’.

They sure are! Its great to see LED variants of the bulbs going on sale now as well.

There should be plenty of space to add a layer of cork and a pin. If you try it out let me know how it goes!

Completely unintentional! Good catch, thanks. I'm glad you like the project :)

Thanks!There should be enough space for a push pin inside the frame but I’m not sure how you would fix it in place as the backboard is very tough! You could try trimming it and fixing it in place with some glue?

Thanks! I'm glad you like them!