FerretPD

Very pretty...but it looks like you left several instructions/steps...--First of...for those of us who aren't familiar with Coconut anatomy (Phytotomy?) ... --Where do you drill the hole? In the "eye" end?--How, exactly, do you "clean out the inside" of the coconut? (Or, for that matter, the outside? Coconuts have a husk on them...and they generally aren't precisely round, but those in your pictures appear to be...were these acquired through some Craft supply?)--What is "multi-layer pipe"? (I looked it up, and found several definitions/examples...but none would appear to be suitably stiff/semi-rigid enough for the use you have demonstrated... Could you provide a supplier, or more description, please?)

Did you leave out a step during use?...how do you keep the material on the Puck? Are you using some sort of rubber cement or double-faced tape to hold the stock in place while cutting? (I'm sure that it's easy to hold a bit of 3mm scrap in place...that would be a lot more difficult with, say, cabinet-grade ply....

This is a beautiful build....did you think of embedding some CPVC (or thin plastic) tubing in the handle, and add a battery and lights?

Sadly...to do it right; that would take a much more complex PWM Control that will compensate for load...something like this: http://www.kbelectronics.com/data_sheets/kbcc.pdfThe best you could do is use Laser Printer, and a weatherproof adhesive Label (like an Avery 94215) to make a cover Label. (Use a piece of paper for your test measurements.)Get a rotary Tach; and mark the spots for different speeds by measurement (I have heard a lot of scuttlebutt that these cheapo controls are *not* linear in their output... so measure carefully.) Hope this helps!

So...it would seem that simple physics would indicate that the Ribbon Cable dangling from the top of the Pendulum would cause Drag, and therefore dampen the response to a....Might I suggest using a Flat flexi-cable (such as https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-Flexible-flat-cable-FFC-6-PIN-0-5-mm-pitch-Ribbon-Same-sides-Length-60/32789596899.html?src=google&albslr=200160384&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=494-037-6276&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&&albagn=888888&albcp=1582410664&albag=59754279756&trgt=539263010115&crea=en32789596899&netw=u&device=c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImNumiInR4wIVBJ6fCh1KWAp3EAQYAyABEgLpyvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds) to bring the signal t…

So...it would seem that simple physics would indicate that the Ribbon Cable dangling from the top of the Pendulum would cause Drag, and therefore dampen the response to a....Might I suggest using a Flat flexi-cable (such as https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-Flexible-flat-cable-FFC-6-PIN-0-5-mm-pitch-Ribbon-Same-sides-Length-60/32789596899.html?src=google&albslr=200160384&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=494-037-6276&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&&albagn=888888&albcp=1582410664&albag=59754279756&trgt=539263010115&crea=en32789596899&netw=u&device=c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImNumiInR4wIVBJ6fCh1KWAp3EAQYAyABEgLpyvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds) to bring the signal to the *base* of the pendulum...where the drag would not be magnified...and then take it off of that cable on individual coiled wires (picture a 2" 28ga wire formed around a pencil, and the result attached at both ends; again, to minimize drag) to the rest of the system?Other than that, an interesting build; outstanding for teaching Physics Properties.

I've been wanting to do this...but I couldn't figure out an easy way to keep all the Sanding Disks and throat plates in place....how are you managing that?

*laffs* ...I noticed in the mounting Pic you still had all the accessories in the Sander....I thought you'd come up with some brilliant method of keeping them in...outside storage was the solution I was coming to, as-well! Great build!P.S. I couldn't live without my feed tables mounted...I angle-cut a piece of PVC & glued a magnet in it, & mounted that under the exhaust port to keep the Outfeed Table folded up when it's stored (I'm using a Delta Universal Rolling stand right now)

This is beautiful...but I have to ask....do these constructions have a purpose, or do they only exist to show off the artistry of the wood-worker, and for the art itself? (I know the Japanese do a lot of that)Thanks in advance!

I notice that you run the bamboo skewer all the way through...have you experimented with only drilling *one* side, and pushing the skewer 99% of the way in...leaving an item to be "plucked* by the beans that is much more receptive in vibration...? (yes, I realize that this effectively doubles the drilling requirements...but I think it might result in a prettier sound in the end)

Umm...this really *IS* a great idea (no...*REALLY*!)...but can we *please* get some specific temperature/time data? At what temp is PVC malleable? At what point does it begin to melt? Those are critical values that would make your Instructable *MUCH* more useful!

This is a brilliant build...especially making it the same height as your Workbench!However...it would have been nice to see the *back* side of the cabinet (even if it's just an empty hole)...to get an idea of size, etc.

You, sir...are my new Big Damm He-ro.Not only is the art awesome...but the *Video* made me laugh out loud.Thanks for brightening my day!

Yes...and all of those SlipRing contacts are dedicated...are you tapping off of the Horn Contacts...? If so....that was a *critical* safety factor that you should have mentioned.

*Seriously*? That is your build...? I'm sorry...but I can see *several* serious safety issues immediately. First: How are you with the fact that the Steering Wheel turns...but the Column (etc) doesn't? Either you have a wire hanging down around your feet (dangerous from a Driving Safety perspective, tangling up your feet)...or you have loosely-wrapped around the Steering Column (Dangerous rom an Electrical perspective...since there is no way to guarantee that the "loose" cord will not get pinched/cut/broken...and then you have Battery power applied to the Metal parts of the car (I should point out here that the "convenient" picture shows a hole in the middle of the Steering wheel...that's where the Bolt and securing nut goes through...there is no convenient axial hole …

*Seriously*? That is your build...? I'm sorry...but I can see *several* serious safety issues immediately. First: How are you with the fact that the Steering Wheel turns...but the Column (etc) doesn't? Either you have a wire hanging down around your feet (dangerous from a Driving Safety perspective, tangling up your feet)...or you have loosely-wrapped around the Steering Column (Dangerous rom an Electrical perspective...since there is no way to guarantee that the "loose" cord will not get pinched/cut/broken...and then you have Battery power applied to the Metal parts of the car (I should point out here that the "convenient" picture shows a hole in the middle of the Steering wheel...that's where the Bolt and securing nut goes through...there is no convenient axial hole in the Steering column to accommodate such a kludge.)Your hands will *absolutely* be warm....as you veer off the road due to either your foot catching on wires when you need to brake/accelerate...or the Electrical system giving up the ghost as you toodle down the road.This is a *BAD* Build...and (in my opinion as a mechanic of over 30 years) is dangerous. I'm sorry if it's not "nice"...this is a Safety* issue.

I know you're "wedded" to your Table Saw brand (we all are *G*)...but I think that your success has more to do with the *blade* than with the *saw* itself.Can you give specs on both? (i.e. 10", 12", Motor size, Belt Drive/gear drive/Direct Drive....and brand of the Blade, Carbide/Tungsten tipped, TPI?Otherwise, *awesome* idea...and well-executed.