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Flyboyron

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  • Flyboyron followed Clocks, LEDs, Lasers, Woodworking and 6 others channel
  • 3D Printer Thermal Runaway Watchdog / Thermistor Tester

    I built it, but can't get it to work. The code has an error I can't get past.

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  • 3D Printer Thermal Runaway Watchdog / Thermistor Tester

    Has anyone gotten this to work?I have successfully printed the case parts, and have bought and assembled all the components according to the diagrams. (There is no schematic though it's referenced in the text.) The code has an error at the line that says:lcd.begin();The error says, 'no matching function for call to 'LiquidCrystal)I2C::begin()'I HAVE included the libraries as instructed, but unless I comment out that line, it won't even compile, and therefore of course it won't load/run.If I comment that line out, it does compile, and will load to the board, but then of course it doesn't run correctly.I've wired it up 3 times, and checked all the component orientations, wiring, etc. It's definitely wired per the diagram. The photos of the case with parts installed doesn't show much detail,…

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    Has anyone gotten this to work?I have successfully printed the case parts, and have bought and assembled all the components according to the diagrams. (There is no schematic though it's referenced in the text.) The code has an error at the line that says:lcd.begin();The error says, 'no matching function for call to 'LiquidCrystal)I2C::begin()'I HAVE included the libraries as instructed, but unless I comment out that line, it won't even compile, and therefore of course it won't load/run.If I comment that line out, it does compile, and will load to the board, but then of course it doesn't run correctly.I've wired it up 3 times, and checked all the component orientations, wiring, etc. It's definitely wired per the diagram. The photos of the case with parts installed doesn't show much detail, but what I can see is correct.I wired it 2 times on the breadboard exactly as indicated, even used the same color wires. Then I wired it with jumpers into the case, and it doesn't work no matter what I try. I've checked the connections several times.When I power everything up, the LED's all light up, the LCD backlight comes on, and there are a line of dark boxes on it, but nothing else. No text, just blank with a row of boxes.The beeper sounds continuously, and the power relay energizes. Nothing changes when I push reset or the encoder knob.I'd appreciate any help anyone might offer. I really wanted this to work so I can safely run my 3d printer unattended. Not to mention that I have about $50US invested at this point.

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  • How to Make a Fake Error Message on Windows

    Clever, but I'd check the spelling of whatever message you intend to create.

    No problem, just a heads up. The correct spelling would be "System" vs. "Sytem".

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  • How to Make a Softstarter

    That information is in the video. But Orngrimm's answer is correct.

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  • Lightkeeper Pro. First "As seen on TV" thing I've ever decided I can't live without. It actually does work! Most of the time.Especially if you don't wait until so many bulbs are out on a string that it overloads the rest and blows the all out.

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  • All the strings I've seen use copper or brass contacts. The DO sometimes corrode, but unless yours are steel, they won't rust.Using Vaseline is fine and it does help. There is also a product called "Bulb Grease" which is likely Silicone, that does the same thing and stays put longer in my experience than Vaseline in an outdoor setting.

    With all due respect, this is a fairly complex combination of serial and parallel circuits that's much easier to understand when laid out this way. In my own case, I'm usually working on a pre-lit tree with about a dozen strings containing well over 1200 lights, so the actual wiring circuit is very difficult to trace in place on the tree. I appreciate the schematic, as I too have never known exactly how the multi-section circuit was wired. Thanks for the diagram!

    Keep in mind that the red tip bulbs are usually flashers, not standard bulbs. The do indeed work, but they will make that section flash on and off.I get my spares for these repairs from old sets of similar lights.When they're not worth fixing anymore, I strip out the bulbs and keep the working ones. As long as the voltage is the same (90% of 50 to 200 light strings are 2.5 Volts)you can replace them when you find the bad bulbs in your set.

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  • You betcha!

    Some great ideas! Well done.BTW, it's "Artisan" bread, not "Artesian". That's for wells.

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  • Exactly. But in either case, it certainly isn't "without electricity" as the title says.

    I don't know about everyone else, but I think I see electricity there.Did I read the title wrong? I assume you mean "without wall outlet power" or "without mains power", but if you touch those two battery clips together, you're definitely going to learn that this is hardly "without electricity".

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  • Jerry, I get that. My point was, you're not really making it if you're purchasing the biggest part of the device. Not a criticism, just a question. I love to build things, so I get it, for sure. I've built dozens of computers, and am about to finish building a flyable airplane. It just seems like it's only repackaging.But hey, whatever blows your skirt up, right?

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  • Thanks, Tom.I suspect I wasn't the only one who was a little confused, was I?

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  • Wasn't really concerned about the FBI. Nothing interesting to them on there, but someone else might be looking, and stumble across it. Enjoyed the idea!

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  • ​Great idea! Very clever.I think I'll build one, but I'm wondering why you cut it with hacksaw, which leaves such large hole in the tin? Couldn't you cut a smaller kerf with the rotary tool, around only 3 sides of the hole, leaving the flap attached. Then just cut a small hole in the flap for the Micro USB port, leaving the whole thing looking a lot less "altered". Or cut around the top rim with one of those "smooth edge" can openers. Then just cut a tiny hole on the end for the Micro USB connector. Put in all the components and just glue the lid back on with JB Weld, and it would look almost normal again if done carefully.Seems like either way, if someone picked it up, they'd be less likely to see it had been modified and get too curious.I think I'll try the seco…

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    ​Great idea! Very clever.I think I'll build one, but I'm wondering why you cut it with hacksaw, which leaves such large hole in the tin? Couldn't you cut a smaller kerf with the rotary tool, around only 3 sides of the hole, leaving the flap attached. Then just cut a small hole in the flap for the Micro USB port, leaving the whole thing looking a lot less "altered". Or cut around the top rim with one of those "smooth edge" can openers. Then just cut a tiny hole on the end for the Micro USB connector. Put in all the components and just glue the lid back on with JB Weld, and it would look almost normal again if done carefully.Seems like either way, if someone picked it up, they'd be less likely to see it had been modified and get too curious.I think I'll try the second method, and if it works out like I hope, I'll post pics.All in all, though, a great Instructable! Thanks for the idea!Now off to find a tin that shape/size in the U.S.

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  • Ah, I should have known. But then I'm not an otoneurologist, either. Sorry for the improper/unneeded scolding.

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  • You should to know that the spelling of Fresnel lenses is wrong in your Instructable's title. It's correct in the text, but you need to proofread a bit more before posting.

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  • Maybe it's just me, but would any of these things work with a "Dead" 9v battery? No.I assume you're just talking about one that has lost the ability to power a full 9V device, but a dead battery will ONLY be useful for a paperweight, as Andrew says.

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  • Well, if you don't try, you certainly prove that's true. But I'd rather see people take control of their own security. If you'd rather accept whatever is thrown your way, enjoy your game.

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  • Actually, no, it isn't possible to do that. You can switch rapidly back and forth between two things, but you can only concentrate (focus) on one at a time. A common misconception (more prevalent among women than men) that causes thousands of car crashes each year. (Can you say, "texting and driving"?)There have already been hundreds of people "focussing on more than one thing at a time" who have been hurt/killed while using this app. One pair walked over the edge of a 90 foot cliff in California. Unfortunately (for the future of humanity) they survived and will probably pass on their defective genes ...

    Does anyone of the self-confessed addicts here have any idea just how much information is streaming out of your phone to "someone else", (no one knows or seems to care who)? When you install that app, you have to give it a ridiculous set of permissions, and you are basically dumping all the information on your phone, as well as your real-time location, to some third party who does God knows what with it.It's a HUGE security threat, and as usual, gamers seem to be oblivious to that. I'll bet you all have Facebook accounts that dumping the REST of your private lives to strangers, too!!Wise up, and GROW UP! It's a little kids' game from many years ago!A year from now, I expect we'll find out this is the largest "hack" of your private information in history, and everyone…

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    Does anyone of the self-confessed addicts here have any idea just how much information is streaming out of your phone to "someone else", (no one knows or seems to care who)? When you install that app, you have to give it a ridiculous set of permissions, and you are basically dumping all the information on your phone, as well as your real-time location, to some third party who does God knows what with it.It's a HUGE security threat, and as usual, gamers seem to be oblivious to that. I'll bet you all have Facebook accounts that dumping the REST of your private lives to strangers, too!!Wise up, and GROW UP! It's a little kids' game from many years ago!A year from now, I expect we'll find out this is the largest "hack" of your private information in history, and everyone will be whining about how much money has been stolen through identity theft, etc. But you'll have enabled it yourself, and will have no one to blame but yourselves.Talk about a wolf in sheep's clothing...I wouldn't have the thing on any device I controlled.

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  • This is no more a "dead blow" hammer than a stick taped to a big rock. What's your point? Sorry, just don't get it.

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