Gabse

Hey iamchrismoran,unfortunately I’m not into touchpads anymore, but as far as I remember the tree digit number does not say anything about the interface type and the pinout of the TP. What is the complete model number of your touchpad, and from which notebook model does it come from? Does your TP have test points as mine did in the instructable? I don’t know anything about connecting one to a raspi, because I have never tried it, but there are guys around who use standard PS2 mice on their raspi, so it should also work with a TP. It is also possible that TP manufacturer in the meantime have switched to from PS2 to USB.Greetings from Italy-Gabs'e

Hello,Unfortunertley i havent played around with Casio calculators, so i cant say anything about there hackability. To your question about saving calculation history i have to say if there are different models with simmilar hardware there is a high chance that a mod like mine works, but if no model has those features i dont think there is a solution besides of massive reverse engineering and reprogramming.

Hello,Unfortunertley i havent played around with Casio calculators, so i cant say anything about there hackability. To your question about saving calculation history i have to say if there are different models with simmilar hardware there is a high chance that a mod like mine works, but if no one has those features i dont think there is a solution besides of masive reverse engineering and reprogramming.

Hi Bubblejunk,I saw on EEVblog that there is a new station around. Specially the handpiece looks a lot better constructed than on the “old” 858. The only thing I don’t like on this station is the evil male plug on the front. Its evil because if no hand piece is connected there is mains power directly accessible, even if the station is switched off (but connected to mains) or not heating. I wanted to install a proper female mains rated plug to my station too, but when I saw how big those plugs get I decided to keep the hand piece wired directly to the main unit. Tht used ATmega8 is pin compatible to the 328P so, the hack should be applicable without major HW changes, only the Fan speed, Buzzer and Cool features would need additional modifications. Of course you have to verify the pinout ...

Hi Bubblejunk,I saw on EEVblog that there is a new station around. Specially the handpiece looks a lot better constructed than on the “old” 858. The only thing I don’t like on this station is the evil male plug on the front. Its evil because if no hand piece is connected there is mains power directly accessible, even if the station is switched off (but connected to mains) or not heating. I wanted to install a proper female mains rated plug to my station too, but when I saw how big those plugs get I decided to keep the hand piece wired directly to the main unit. Tht used ATmega8 is pin compatible to the 328P so, the hack should be applicable without major HW changes, only the Fan speed, Buzzer and Cool features would need additional modifications. Of course you have to verify the pinout on the PCB first and modify the pin mapping in the firmware if necessary.

ThanksI don't understand your question. The buttons are connected as it is written in step4; I don’t have any additional diagram. If you want to know about the protocol: there is a Touchpad interfacing guide from Synaptics, where all the serial commands are listed.

I don't sell them, but perhaps you could ask in the EEVBlog Forum if anyone dose.BWT if anyone from Europe or better Italy needs the bare boards, I've got two left!

It's the ATmega328P-MU, so VQFN(or MLF-32 as its's called sometimes)

Asfar as I know the MK1840D3 and the MK1841D3 are pin compatible, so yes, itshould work

There’snothing wrong with the original controller, but the new is quid more accurate (lesovershoots), and has some additional features including Cold air mode, and Fanfault detection (all features are listed in step9)

Hello, I’m glad you like it.The test voltage is 5V. I'm using a Diamex AVR programmer, but you can use any ISP programmer (even Arduino as ISP)

Hi stevempotter, cool instructable, looks really nice!

Many thanks!

Hi w_h_yOkay, you are right, switching technology may is a bit more complicated as you may can see from the text above, but for this mod it is not necessary to know exactly how to calculate the PWM Frequency, or selecting a storage choke. If you would like to build one from scratch instead, you were right.I did no modifications on the circuit of the "HOT" side, The only thing i did was installing the new switch and moving some components to get more space inside the case.Although the output of the PS is switched on a few seconds after the power-up, so it's not possible that the output voltage will rise to high on the star phase, I will add a 28V Supressordiode in version 2.At work we use commercial SMPS too, who also burn through sometimes, but mostly they just stop to work or...

Hi w_h_yOkay, you are right, switching technology may is a bit more complicated as you may can see from the text above, but for this mod it is not necessary to know exactly how to calculate the PWM Frequency, or selecting a storage choke. If you would like to build one from scratch instead, you were right.I did no modifications on the circuit of the "HOT" side, The only thing i did was installing the new switch and moving some components to get more space inside the case.Although the output of the PS is switched on a few seconds after the power-up, so it's not possible that the output voltage will rise to high on the star phase, I will add a 28V Supressordiode in version 2.At work we use commercial SMPS too, who also burn through sometimes, but mostly they just stop to work or end up in magic smoke. I never watched the behavior described by you.

Hi w_h_yOkay, youare right, switching technology may is a bit more complicated as you may cansee from the text above, but for this mod it is not necessary to know exactlyhow to calculate the PWM Frequency, or selecting a storage choke. If you wouldlike to build one from scratch instead, you were right.I did nomodifications on the circuit of the “HOT” side, The only thing I did there wasinstalling the new switch and moving some components to get more space insidethe case.Althoughthe output of the PS is switched on a few seconds after the power-up, so it’snot possible that the output voltage will rise to high on the start phase, Iwill add a 28V Supressordiode in version 2.At work weuse commercial smps too, who also burn through sometimes, but mostly they juststop to work...

Hi w_h_yOkay, youare right, switching technology may is a bit more complicated as you may cansee from the text above, but for this mod it is not necessary to know exactlyhow to calculate the PWM Frequency, or selecting a storage choke. If you wouldlike to build one from scratch instead, you were right.I did nomodifications on the circuit of the “HOT” side, The only thing I did there wasinstalling the new switch and moving some components to get more space insidethe case.Althoughthe output of the PS is switched on a few seconds after the power-up, so it’snot possible that the output voltage will rise to high on the start phase, Iwill add a 28V Supressordiode in version 2.At work weuse commercial smps too, who also burn through sometimes, but mostly they juststop to work or end up in magic smoke. I never watched the behavior describedby you.

Hallo Dwargh,Es freut mich, dass dir mein Projekt gefällt! Die Anleitung habe ich leider nur auf Englisch.

Hi asfi235,It was necessaryto remove these rails, because they aren’t regulated anymore, so there voltagewill rise and may damage some of the components, especially when the main railis under Load.