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  • GaryG8 commented on WUVIE's instructable Easy to Make Concrete Bowls and Planters...6 weeks ago
    Easy to Make Concrete Bowls and Planters...

    What you are referring to is called Concrete efflorescence. This is where calcium hydroxide moves to the surface, can take weeks. Calcium hydroxide when wet has a ph of 12.4 and can cause chemical burns hence problem for amphibians. Concrete is an very unusual material which take a long time to cure. Moist concrete is considered to be at 100% strength after 28 days even though strength continues to increase. Air dried concrete reaches 50% in about 2 weeks and stops. However I don’t know of any studies on how long for efflorescence to stop but can is know to be weeks. Usually causes problems for colored concrete.

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  • GaryG8 commented on WUVIE's instructable Easy to Make Concrete Bowls and Planters...6 weeks ago
    Easy to Make Concrete Bowls and Planters...

    I would think 30 days would be good. If accessible by frogs Or salamanders, you would still need to watch and remove until fully cured.

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  • GaryG8 commented on WUVIE's instructable Easy to Make Concrete Bowls and Planters...7 weeks ago
    Easy to Make Concrete Bowls and Planters...

    Concrete is very alkaline after initial pour and for a while continues to migrate up to surface. This is very caustic to frogs and salamanders skin but also seems attractive to them as well. So in in an area where you might have such visitors, take care. I take efforts to keep them away. I usually check repeatedly and remove any new visitors and re-hose off top but invariably find some dead ones on a slab after it was poured. I suspect a vinegar rinse might help but usually my areas are too big.

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  • GaryG8 commented on ThomasVDD's instructable DIY Professional Double Sided PCB4 months ago
    DIY Professional Double Sided PCB

    I bought a 2nd speed controller (this one has an external potentiometer) thinking I might have damaged the first one in trying to get it to work as I had hooked up spindle voltage to it. I set $30 back to 1000. The second on behaves identically to the first so this particular controller cannot handle a DC voltage at PWM+. 100% PWM would have been 5V DC. So I set $30 back to 1070 and then measured the motor voltage when Candle called for 1000 and also when using the external potentiometer set at max. Both cases I read 46.4V. So setting $30 to 1070 will result in max spindle speed when Candle calls for 1000 or on pre-generated files with (M03 S1000). Remember I chose $30=1070 as that reliably worked when Candle called for 1000. Could be for some other systems, you migh...

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    I bought a 2nd speed controller (this one has an external potentiometer) thinking I might have damaged the first one in trying to get it to work as I had hooked up spindle voltage to it. I set $30 back to 1000. The second on behaves identically to the first so this particular controller cannot handle a DC voltage at PWM+. 100% PWM would have been 5V DC. So I set $30 back to 1070 and then measured the motor voltage when Candle called for 1000 and also when using the external potentiometer set at max. Both cases I read 46.4V. So setting $30 to 1070 will result in max spindle speed when Candle calls for 1000 or on pre-generated files with (M03 S1000). Remember I chose $30=1070 as that reliably worked when Candle called for 1000. Could be for some other systems, you might need to go higher on the $30 value. I also hooked a 3 pin switch to a Dupont connector and plugged it into the jumper slot so I can switch between Woodpecker PWM and the potentiometer. Gary

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  • GaryG8 commented on ThomasVDD's instructable DIY Professional Double Sided PCB4 months ago
    DIY Professional Double Sided PCB

    I found schematics for Woodpecker GRBL card at: http://linksprite.com/wiki/index.php5?title=DIY_CNC_3_Axis_Engraver_Machine_PCB_Milling_Wood_Carving_Router_Kit_Arduino_Grbl

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  • GaryG8 commented on ThomasVDD's instructable DIY Professional Double Sided PCB4 months ago
    DIY Professional Double Sided PCB

    The first image is from your instructable showing the Woodpecker GRBL 0.9. This picture identifies the Power Mosfet and the gate terminal and GND terminal. The PWM signal comes from pin 15 (D11) of the ATMEGA328 microcontroller. it is a 0-5V signal. The 24 Power goes to the pin 1 (+ terminal) of the original motor connector through the motor then to the power N channel Mosfet. The third picture is of a MOSFET. Vi is the PWM input (G), Vo is from the negative terminal of the spindle (D) and then GND (S). The 5v PWM signal switches the MOSFET to conduct to ground providing a current path for the spindle The second picture is my connections to the power MOSFET. large pins so soldering is easy versus trying to connect to pin 15 of the ATMEGA328. Note: my PCB is Woodpecker 3...

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    The first image is from your instructable showing the Woodpecker GRBL 0.9. This picture identifies the Power Mosfet and the gate terminal and GND terminal. The PWM signal comes from pin 15 (D11) of the ATMEGA328 microcontroller. it is a 0-5V signal. The 24 Power goes to the pin 1 (+ terminal) of the original motor connector through the motor then to the power N channel Mosfet. The third picture is of a MOSFET. Vi is the PWM input (G), Vo is from the negative terminal of the spindle (D) and then GND (S). The 5v PWM signal switches the MOSFET to conduct to ground providing a current path for the spindle The second picture is my connections to the power MOSFET. large pins so soldering is easy versus trying to connect to pin 15 of the ATMEGA328. Note: my PCB is Woodpecker 3.2A GRBL which is a later version using level 1.1 of the GRBL code. On the 3.2A card, the second Zen pin is no longer connected to a PWM output but is now another limit switch input. Also, note my DC spindle speed controller which looks identical to your picture will not accept a DC input. The max speed coded into the GRBL ($30=1000) and the MAX speed in Candle was set to 1000. When running Candle or passing an example file with spindle speed set to 1000, the Woodpecker would go to a solid 5V. This would turn off the speed controller and spindle. If I set the spindle speed to a value between 100 and 800, the motor would run and at expected speed (100 = slow, 800=fast). However, at 1000, the motor would turn off. Looking at the PWM pin on the MOSFET with an Oscilloscope, I would see the expected PWM signal until I got close to 1000 then I would get 5V. At 100 the uptime(5v) would be small with respect to downtime (0v). At 800, I would see the opposite waveform. I got around this problem by setting GRBL to a max spindle speed of 1070 ($30=1070). So now when the Woodpecker card sees a speed of 1000 setting from Candle or a file (M03 S1000), I get a PWM signal with very small downtime and the motor runs and is at 46.8V. I suspect there is a threshold drop in the speed controller card so I may not be able to get higher than 46.8V anyway. I do know that if the PWM downtime is too narrow, the speed controller will treat that as solid 5v and the spindle will not run so $30=1050 was not a reliable setting Gary

    Thomas, you need to click on the jpgs in the prior reply to see the full picture. the thumbnails have trimmed off part of the pictures.

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  • GaryG8 commented on ThomasVDD's instructable DIY Professional Double Sided PCB4 months ago
    DIY Professional Double Sided PCB

    Hi Thomas, I have to apologize, I noticed I posted my comment here instead of "Upgrade-Your-CNC". Anyway, I checked the and card there are 4 components. A USB to Serial, the Mega328P, a power Mosfet and a DC-DC converter to provide 12V but no motor controller (and 3 pololu stepper drivers). So I dusted off my oscilloscope and immediately got confused until it ran long enough to actually work correctly, it had been a while. I also found the candle which came with the unit actually works differently than a more recent version as well, I suspect that more recent version had a lower max RPM set but I need to look. So actually after probing a bit, I found that the PWM is generated by the Mega328 and then goes from D11 to the gate of the power MOSFET. 24V goes to the ...

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    Hi Thomas, I have to apologize, I noticed I posted my comment here instead of "Upgrade-Your-CNC". Anyway, I checked the and card there are 4 components. A USB to Serial, the Mega328P, a power Mosfet and a DC-DC converter to provide 12V but no motor controller (and 3 pololu stepper drivers). So I dusted off my oscilloscope and immediately got confused until it ran long enough to actually work correctly, it had been a while. I also found the candle which came with the unit actually works differently than a more recent version as well, I suspect that more recent version had a lower max RPM set but I need to look. So actually after probing a bit, I found that the PWM is generated by the Mega328 and then goes from D11 to the gate of the power MOSFET. 24V goes to the red terminal of the motor (It is always hot) and then the MOSFET grounds the motor so without a motor attached the positive pin always reads 24v so my initial approach of passing the motor voltage from the connector would not have worked. I had measured voltage with a motor attached and could see the voltage changing but without a load, the positive pin always reads 24V. The pins on the Mega328 are really tight so soldering a wire there would be risky however the bottom pin of the MOSFET is large so I will solder a pin there and run that to the 48V motor controller. Looks Like I am set. If you wish to modify the "Upgrade-Your-CNC", the power MOSFET is the component just above the WOODPECKER silkscreen and the Gate is the pin closest to the silkscreen. I suspect anyone who gets a CNC3018 with a later card will run into the same problem. Thanks, Gary

    I will have to look but documentation / schematics are are not available. Do you have any documentation? My card seems to look the same as yours. Guess I will drag my oscilloscope out and look.

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  • GaryG8 commented on ThomasVDD's instructable DIY Professional Double Sided PCB4 months ago
    DIY Professional Double Sided PCB

    Hi Thomas, I have mostly made a 3018 system to mimic what you did including the spindle motor and controller. However, I have figured out a problem. My CNC controller card is a later version (woodpecker 3.2A) and does not have a PWM output. The pins you pointed to are now just limit switch inputs. And it does not appear to be an easy way to change the code flashed into the controller. There is not an ISP port nor does it appear to have a bootloader so you can't do it through the USB port and would need to do some soldering on the board to add an ISP port. I am working on using the original 0 to 24V spindle output and passing it to a 24v PWM motor speed controller which I can pass to the motor controller you had used. The speed controller uses a potentiometer to vary the control vol...

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    Hi Thomas, I have mostly made a 3018 system to mimic what you did including the spindle motor and controller. However, I have figured out a problem. My CNC controller card is a later version (woodpecker 3.2A) and does not have a PWM output. The pins you pointed to are now just limit switch inputs. And it does not appear to be an easy way to change the code flashed into the controller. There is not an ISP port nor does it appear to have a bootloader so you can't do it through the USB port and would need to do some soldering on the board to add an ISP port. I am working on using the original 0 to 24V spindle output and passing it to a 24v PWM motor speed controller which I can pass to the motor controller you had used. The speed controller uses a potentiometer to vary the control voltage. I think I can pass the spindle voltage through a divider to pass as a control voltage. I will find out as soon as the card arrives.

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  • GaryG8 commented on ThomasVDD's instructable Upgrade Your CNC5 months ago
    Upgrade Your CNC

    Thanks a million.

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  • GaryG8 commented on ThomasVDD's instructable Upgrade Your CNC5 months ago
    Upgrade Your CNC

    Hi Thomas, I printed the spindle motor housing with lasers. I have a few questions.1) did you reuse the linear bearings and thread insert from the old motor housing or purchase new ones? 2) if you reused the old ones, any tips for the transfer? 3) I printed the new spindle housing using standard 3d printer settings in PLA. Did you print with other parameters such as increasing infill from 20% to 100% ? Thanks, Gary.

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  • GaryG8 commented on ThomasVDD's instructable DIY Professional Double Sided PCB6 months ago
    DIY Professional Double Sided PCB

    Thank you for the reply. I am about to order a system for my self. I have 6 cards to prototype, so costs are not a lot more than buying low volume commercial cards. Think I selected the appropriate unit and parts on amazon to mimic your instructables for the CNC upgrade. This brought the total cost up to about $425 which is still well below any already capable CNC unit. Your upgrade instructable made finding the parts you used pretty easy. I did select a 40A 48V power supply as it did not add much to the cost and being larger, I would expect less droop. I did not find an exact match for the DC spindle motor but suspect the one I found was very close ( https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07GS412YW/?coliid=I2D... )Thanks again. Gary

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  • GaryG8 commented on pityukecske's instructable GoldFish - a Smart Fish Tank Controller6 months ago
    GoldFish - a Smart Fish Tank Controller

    For level sensing, I switched to Milone etape. I have a saltwater aquarium which would not work with your type of level sensor. The Etapes can come as long as 32 inches. I designed an arduino based comparator board which allows me to set 5 levels per tape (very low, low, ok, high, and very high. My controller has options for float based inputs and my comparator mimics that. As the etape is sealed, it is not affected by saltwater and does not stick like floats.

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