HackerBoxes

The OLED module can be used to display text and/or graphics. There are some nice examples with the SSD1306 library. If you want to use the color sensor (Step 4) without a PC serial monitor attached, the OLED can display the color sensor output. Check out the sketch GY33_OLED added to Step 4.

User_Setup.h works with IO numbers as shown in the guide.

Getting any closer to fixing this? Until then is there a good work around? We need to be able to attach code files to instructables. Thank you!

The D1 Mini Lite has the ESP8285 chip instead of the ESP8266. Because the ESP8285 chip has 1M flash on chip, there is no external serial flash chip as there is on this one. For the IDE board settings, "WeMos D1 R1" seems to work best since this is the original style D1 Mini Pro, which is more like the full-size (uno sized) D1 R1.https://wiki.wemos.cc/products:retired:d1_mini_pro_v1.0.0

Did you try the trick of holding the reset button on the Main MCU while programming the Video MCU, and then vice versa?

Nice work! That looks great. Try out "AVRISP mkII" as the programmer. That should work better without several retries. The reason a USB-to-PS/2 adapter isn't included is that most modern USB keyboards do not support them (they are USB only). Those "adapters" don't actually convert USB to PS/2, they only work on keyboards that have both USB and PS/2 interfaces by routing out some extra signals and obviously changing the physical connector. Keyboards that supported both options usually came with the "adapter" and keyboards that don't have that adapter usually (although not always) do not work with them (they are USB only).

"The 18650 (18mm by 65mm) battery is a size classification of lithium-ion batteries. If you have ever held one in your hand, you probably noticed it is the same shape, but a bit larger than a AA battery. AA batteries by comparison are sometimes called 14500 batteries, because they have a 14mm diameter and 50mm height." (batterybro)Unlike a typical alkaline cell which is apx 1.5V, a single Li-Ion cell is typically 3.7V due to the cell chemistry (sum of the RedOx half reaction potentials). Note that other rechargeable chemistries, such as NiMH or NiCd, will have a different single cell voltage based on their RedOx reaction potentials.https://www.khanacademy.org/test-prep/mcat/physical-processes/intro-electrochemistry-mcat/a/electrochemistrySlightly related note: Top nerd points...

"The 18650 (18mm by 65mm) battery is a size classification of lithium-ion batteries. If you have ever held one in your hand, you probably noticed it is the same shape, but a bit larger than a AA battery. AA batteries by comparison are sometimes called 14500 batteries, because they have a 14mm diameter and 50mm height." (batterybro)Unlike a typical alkaline cell which is apx 1.5V, a single Li-Ion cell is typically 3.7V due to the cell chemistry (sum of the RedOx half reaction potentials). Note that other rechargeable chemistries, such as NiMH or NiCd, will have a different single cell voltage based on their RedOx reaction potentials.https://www.khanacademy.org/test-prep/mcat/physical-processes/intro-electrochemistry-mcat/a/electrochemistrySlightly related note: Top nerd points to know (and properly use) the difference between CELL and BATTERY. A cell is a single RedOx reaction pair. A battery is "a combination of apparatus for producing a single electrical effect - for example: a battery of generators" (miriam webster). In other words, the term battery should be used for two or more cells, not a single cell... We call AA, D, C, etc CELLS (not batteries) because each is ONE 1.5V cell, but a standard rectangular 9V Battery (not a cell) is SIX 1.5 cells together. It's a battery of 6 cells. Also looks at the corresponding schematic symbols for cell (one) and battery (many).

That looks like a regular AA battery. Check out this one:https://amzn.to/2NTEe1l

Update from the manufacturer for using the MH-ET ePaper (EPD) with the Arduino UNO...tldr: Wire 5V (from UNO) to VCC (on EPD) but then set the EPD's voltage switch to "L". Even the that sounds wrong, it makes the voltage levels work out correctly. We will have some more detailed examples going onto the box guide today that cover this VCC issue along with some other interesting things we have learned about the EPD over the last few days. Props to folks who have been exploring this "feature" along with us, especially b1un7 (renown inventor/developer of the Flying Electronic Quad-Copter Badge) and our friends in Shenzhen.

The "flat side" on the PCB silkscreen, the "flat side" on the LED, and the "short pin" should all be the same thing. It shouldn't matter which you use as the cathode indicator to align the part. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light-emitting_diode#/media/File:LED,_5mm,_green_(en).svg

There were some problems and lost files while editing the board layout video. We have recovered the original files and the video should get (re)edited and uploaded as soon as we can get back to it. In the meantime, check out some of the other linked tutorials on Eagle PCB layout. Thank you for your patience!

Is your wiring like shown in Step 5? Unfortunately the USBasp and the Pluggable ATtiny board do not just plug together straight-across (nor using a ribbon cable).

BTW, look at the image of the "Pro ESP32 With WiFi and OLED" that has all the pin assignments labeled. Note the little red arrows on pins 4 and 15 along with the dark blue tags. These show how the ESP32 is wired internally to the OLED driver (I2C data SDA and clock SCL) via pins 4 and 15. That is where the values for the display constructor call come from: The documentation from the board manufacturer. FYI, constructor prototype:SSD1306Wire(uint8_t _address, uint8_t _sda, uint8_t _scl, OLEDDISPLAY_GEOMETRY g = GEOMETRY_128_64)(We don't pass in the geometry because our display uses the default 128x64)Whenever possible, try to figure out why things we are doing in code are related to the hardware, then it (hopefully) gets a little easier to make things work when you buy them...

BTW, look at the image of the "Pro ESP32 With WiFi and OLED" that has all the pin assignments labeled. Note the little red arrows on pins 4 and 15 along with the dark blue tags. These show how the ESP32 is wired internally to the OLED driver (I2C data SDA and clock SCL) via pins 4 and 15. That is where the values for the display constructor call come from: The documentation from the board manufacturer. FYI, constructor prototype:SSD1306Wire(uint8_t _address, uint8_t _sda, uint8_t _scl, OLEDDISPLAY_GEOMETRY g = GEOMETRY_128_64)(We don't pass in the geometry because our display uses the default 128x64)Whenever possible, try to figure out why things we are doing in code are related to the hardware, then it (hopefully) gets a little easier to make things work when you buy them on your own and they come with little or no information.

Yes, ESP32 Dev Module.For the OLED constructor, open the example sketch SD1306SimpleDemo.Find these two lines:// Initialize the OLED display using Wire librarySSD1306Wire display(0x3c, D3, D5);CHANGE (not insert) the parameters that get passed in to match the pin assignments in our board:(0x3c, 4, 15)

Remember that programming the UNO (with arduinoISP) and programming the attiny85 target through the uno are two unrelated things with totally different IDE settings. When programming the UNO, there will be no setting under tools for the ATYTiny85, but then when you change the target to ATTiny85, there will be options specific to that "board" (not the UNO).

The LEDs just default to blue when they are powered. They need data pumped into them before the change color. If they remain blue with the chip plugged in, some common causes to check: chip not programmed (correctly), buzzer installed (pulling chip into reset), short or open somewhere in the soldering, chip not making good connection with socket.

You may have missed this step:Change camera model #define to "CAMERA_MODEL_AI_THINKER"

Yes, they should flash in the pattern described in the box guide. It looks like your transistors might be backwards.

Kenny, check out the PCB outline image in Step 5. Scaling the outer flat edges of the PCB to 52.8 x 88.9mm will let you project all of the other dimensions.

Yes, you should be able to use a power supply with a 20 pin ATX connector.

When attaching the binding posts, we recommend having the the metal washer and both nuts below the PCB and everything else above. You really only need one nut. There are two nuts on this type of binding post for attaching a wire lug between them in and that is not used in this application. There is no soldering required for the binding posts.

The PCB schematic is in the image for Step 8. You can populate the R3 and R10 with 2K-4.7K resistors if you wish, but they are not strictly necesary.

This excellent research (which we were about to do ourselves before finding) teaches us to stick to 4:3 image ratio to make things fit and look nice. Perhaps instructables could add a "pad image to 4:3" option for us to use while uploading images? https://www.instructables.com/id/Sizing-Instructable-Images/

If you select the board as "DOIT ESP32 Development Board" that #define should be made by default, but you can try manually adding the pin number if you don't get a blinking LED the first time.

Try replacing "WProgram.h" with "Arduino.h"

Now you can speak from experience as to why we use crystal oscillators.

You can actually use any camera with a USB output. To find a small camera module like the one in the original HackerBox, search for "laptop camera module" on eBay or aliexpress. Make sure the module comes with the necessary USB cable before you order it.

Very nice work, Stephen. Thank you! We edited step 7 to include a link to your improved example including attribution.

You can always contact support@hackerboxes.com for issues with anything in your box. Also, if it is easier, you can just reply to one of the many notification emails you received as part of the purchase and fulfillment process.

Yes, indeed! If you want to set up a demo "alarm system" you can combine the seven provided example programs together into whatever subset of sensors, user controls, and indicators that you wish. They all work together fine. The "work, home, bed" image is a graphical example of a simple "state machine" from everyday life having three states and four transition events. The alarm example below that has four states with eight transition events. Here is some general info on state machines: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Finite-state_machine

When you install a new copy of OpenWrt on a router, the wifi networks are disabled for security reasons until you have a chance to set wifi passwords.https://wiki.openwrt.org/doc/walkthrough_wifi

Any AD623AN in an 8pin DIP package should work fine. Before you spend the $10-15 buying one, shoot an email to support@hackerboxes.com and see if they can find one to send to you.

There are two things in HackerBox 0031 that explicitly involve soldering and we're not sure which one you are wondering about, so a word about each... After soldering the EtherTap (Step 4), you can use it to monitor packets on any wired Ethernet link, which is useful for debugging or just learning more about the protocols running on the network. Wireshark is a useful tool to use for such monitoring.After soldering the Arduino pins and connecting the ENC28J60 module, there are several examples to play around with in the EtherCard library discussed in Step 8.If you are trying to use all the box items at the same time, here is a multi-step demo/experiment: Set up an Arduino sketch using the ENC28J60 (e.g., use one of the EtherCard example sketches) and then establish connection (accordin...

There are two things in HackerBox 0031 that explicitly involve soldering and we're not sure which one you are wondering about, so a word about each... After soldering the EtherTap (Step 4), you can use it to monitor packets on any wired Ethernet link, which is useful for debugging or just learning more about the protocols running on the network. Wireshark is a useful tool to use for such monitoring.After soldering the Arduino pins and connecting the ENC28J60 module, there are several examples to play around with in the EtherCard library discussed in Step 8.If you are trying to use all the box items at the same time, here is a multi-step demo/experiment: Set up an Arduino sketch using the ENC28J60 (e.g., use one of the EtherCard example sketches) and then establish connection (according to whichever example you are running) over ENC28J60 Ethernet link from a computer (may require crossover adapter). Once that is working, plug the ENC28J60 Ethernet port up to one of the Ethernet ports on the WT3020, connect via WiFi from the computer to the WT3020, and now you should be able to access the Arduino sketch over a network including a wired and wireless link mediated by the WT3020. Finally, "open" the wired connection between the ENC28J60 module and the WT3020 and put the EtherTap inline allowing you to monitor exactly how the exchange is happening.

Check the video at about the 20 minute mark.https://youtu.be/YCG2HqVBKLU

There are a few STC in-system programer options out there. For example:https://github.com/grigorig/stcgal

The octal latches are the 20-pin chips inside the plastic box.

Hey Greg. We are glad that you are enjoying HackerBox #0026. Use of the TRRS breakout is shown in Step 16 for the EEG interface. The tubing is for your supply bin and is useful for many projects. Your use of the phrase "a few parts in the kit" points to the confusion here. HackerBoxes are not kits. A particular HackerBox may include one or more kits, or even no kits. In this case, most of the box is related to one project so it may feel like a kit. That is usually not the case. A HackerBox is a bunch of stuff each month for electronics hobbyists and there is a general educational/entertaining theme for each box, however the entire box is not intended to be singular in purpose.

Step 7 includes a second sequencer demo using the far simpler internal DAC (instead of the external IIS DAC). It also shows some improvements on the user control system including an "edit mode" when the sweep speed is on its lowest setting and another knob for moving the cursor around in edit mode.

The super simple sketch internalDACsimple.ino (see Step 5) shows how to "play" waveform samples via the internal DAC. This is a bit more straightforward than I2S comms to the external DAC. The tradeoff is that you have to carefully tend to your own timing.

Check out the Grid Step Sequencer demo sketch in Step 7.

See Step 16 Above. Thanks!

See Step 16 Above. Thanks!

We've never had any problems with these switches, but they can be damaged during soldering if too much heat is applied, if the contact mechanism is deformed, or if solder is drawn up into the switch mechanism. These switches are manufactured by the tens of millions and are about as ubiquitous as it gets. There are probably numerous of them in equipment around all of our homes.

It depends on when you created your PDF. This is one of many, many reasons why we do not suggest using the Instructables PDF "feature" for the HackerBox box guides.

The shrink tubing in HackerBox #0025 was 1mm, 2.5mm, and 5mm. The tubing in HackerBox #0026 is 1.5mm and 3.0mm. Together they make a nice complementary set of sizes.