HackerBoxes

You may have missed this step:Change camera model #define to "CAMERA_MODEL_AI_THINKER"

Yes, they should flash in the pattern described in the box guide. It looks like your transistors might be backwards.

Kenny, check out the PCB outline image in Step 5. Scaling the outer flat edges of the PCB to 52.8 x 88.9mm will let you project all of the other dimensions.

Yes, you should be able to use a power supply with a 20 pin ATX connector.

When attaching the binding posts, we recommend having the the metal washer and both nuts below the PCB and everything else above. You really only need one nut. There are two nuts on this type of binding post for attaching a wire lug between them in and that is not used in this application. There is no soldering required for the binding posts.

The PCB schematic is in the image for Step 8. You can populate the R3 and R10 with 2K-4.7K resistors if you wish, but they are not strictly necesary.

This excellent research (which we were about to do ourselves before finding) teaches us to stick to 4:3 image ratio to make things fit and look nice. Perhaps instructables could add a "pad image to 4:3" option for us to use while uploading images? https://www.instructables.com/id/Sizing-Instructable-Images/

If you select the board as "DOIT ESP32 Development Board" that #define should be made by default, but you can try manually adding the pin number if you don't get a blinking LED the first time.

Try replacing "WProgram.h" with "Arduino.h"

Now you can speak from experience as to why we use crystal oscillators.

You can actually use any camera with a USB output. To find a small camera module like the one in the original HackerBox, search for "laptop camera module" on eBay or aliexpress. Make sure the module comes with the necessary USB cable before you order it.

Very nice work, Stephen. Thank you! We edited step 7 to include a link to your improved example including attribution.

Yes, indeed! If you want to set up a demo "alarm system" you can combine the seven provided example programs together into whatever subset of sensors, user controls, and indicators that you wish. They all work together fine. The "work, home, bed" image is a graphical example of a simple "state machine" from everyday life having three states and four transition events. The alarm example below that has four states with eight transition events. Here is some general info on state machines: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Finite-state_machine

You can always contact support@hackerboxes.com for issues with anything in your box. Also, if it is easier, you can just reply to one of the many notification emails you received as part of the purchase and fulfillment process.

When you install a new copy of OpenWrt on a router, the wifi networks are disabled for security reasons until you have a chance to set wifi passwords.https://wiki.openwrt.org/doc/walkthrough_wifi

Any AD623AN in an 8pin DIP package should work fine. Before you spend the $10-15 buying one, shoot an email to support@hackerboxes.com and see if they can find one to send to you.

There are two things in HackerBox 0031 that explicitly involve soldering and we're not sure which one you are wondering about, so a word about each... After soldering the EtherTap (Step 4), you can use it to monitor packets on any wired Ethernet link, which is useful for debugging or just learning more about the protocols running on the network. Wireshark is a useful tool to use for such monitoring.After soldering the Arduino pins and connecting the ENC28J60 module, there are several examples to play around with in the EtherCard library discussed in Step 8.If you are trying to use all the box items at the same time, here is a multi-step demo/experiment: Set up an Arduino sketch using the ENC28J60 (e.g., use one of the EtherCard example sketches) and then establish connection (accordin...

There are two things in HackerBox 0031 that explicitly involve soldering and we're not sure which one you are wondering about, so a word about each... After soldering the EtherTap (Step 4), you can use it to monitor packets on any wired Ethernet link, which is useful for debugging or just learning more about the protocols running on the network. Wireshark is a useful tool to use for such monitoring.After soldering the Arduino pins and connecting the ENC28J60 module, there are several examples to play around with in the EtherCard library discussed in Step 8.If you are trying to use all the box items at the same time, here is a multi-step demo/experiment: Set up an Arduino sketch using the ENC28J60 (e.g., use one of the EtherCard example sketches) and then establish connection (according to whichever example you are running) over ENC28J60 Ethernet link from a computer (may require crossover adapter). Once that is working, plug the ENC28J60 Ethernet port up to one of the Ethernet ports on the WT3020, connect via WiFi from the computer to the WT3020, and now you should be able to access the Arduino sketch over a network including a wired and wireless link mediated by the WT3020. Finally, "open" the wired connection between the ENC28J60 module and the WT3020 and put the EtherTap inline allowing you to monitor exactly how the exchange is happening.

Check the video at about the 20 minute mark.https://youtu.be/YCG2HqVBKLU

There are a few STC in-system programer options out there. For example:https://github.com/grigorig/stcgal

The octal latches are the 20-pin chips inside the plastic box.

Hey Greg. We are glad that you are enjoying HackerBox #0026. Use of the TRRS breakout is shown in Step 16 for the EEG interface. The tubing is for your supply bin and is useful for many projects. Your use of the phrase "a few parts in the kit" points to the confusion here. HackerBoxes are not kits. A particular HackerBox may include one or more kits, or even no kits. In this case, most of the box is related to one project so it may feel like a kit. That is usually not the case. A HackerBox is a bunch of stuff each month for electronics hobbyists and there is a general educational/entertaining theme for each box, however the entire box is not intended to be singular in purpose.

Step 7 includes a second sequencer demo using the far simpler internal DAC (instead of the external IIS DAC). It also shows some improvements on the user control system including an "edit mode" when the sweep speed is on its lowest setting and another knob for moving the cursor around in edit mode.

The super simple sketch internalDACsimple.ino (see Step 5) shows how to "play" waveform samples via the internal DAC. This is a bit more straightforward than I2S comms to the external DAC. The tradeoff is that you have to carefully tend to your own timing.

Check out the Grid Step Sequencer demo sketch in Step 7.

See Step 16 Above. Thanks!

See Step 16 Above. Thanks!

We've never had any problems with these switches, but they can be damaged during soldering if too much heat is applied, if the contact mechanism is deformed, or if solder is drawn up into the switch mechanism. These switches are manufactured by the tens of millions and are about as ubiquitous as it gets. There are probably numerous of them in equipment around all of our homes.

It depends on when you created your PDF. This is one of many, many reasons why we do not suggest using the Instructables PDF "feature" for the HackerBox box guides.

The shrink tubing in HackerBox #0025 was 1mm, 2.5mm, and 5mm. The tubing in HackerBox #0026 is 1.5mm and 3.0mm. Together they make a nice complementary set of sizes.

HackerBox 0025 includes the pluggable ATtiny85 DevBoard (the one with the 8pin socket) which is electrically the same thing as a USB digispark (see Step 7). The USB digispark is only discussed in the instructions for context on the pluggable board that is being used here.

Oops... The instructables editor bit the URL off when trying to turn it into a link.It should be:https://raw.githubusercontent.com/damellis/attiny/ide-1.6.x-boards-manager/package_damellis_attiny_index.jsonWe also added a link to a High-LowTech tutorial on the process.

It is odd that they are called flashing when "fading" and/or "cycling" would be more appropriate. They are manufactured in China so it might be a translation issue. Also, we used the "slow" variant here, but the "fast" variant does seem a little more like what one might call "flashing." BTW, if anyone wants more, Adafruit carries them or you can get a big bag on Amazon or eBay. https://www.adafruit.com/product/679

You might need to get a nicer soldering iron. Also, always keep the tip VERY clean and completely tinned. It should we wet and shinny looking at all times. We prefer shredded metal tip cleaners since they don't cool the tip while working. We stab the tip into the cleaner every 10-30 second while the tip is in active use. Watch a couple soldering guide videos and find some junk boards to practice on. You'll get it with some work. It is a valuable skill and worth the effort. HACK THE PLANET!

A good app for testing webcams on OSX is WEBCAMOID.You can attach the camera module to the U-Bracket using a small nut/bolt (probably the "best" choice for several reasons), an adhesive velcro strip (how we did it), double-sided tape, or hot glue.

Try WEBCAMOID.

Yup. They were all like that from the manufacturer. Part of being packaged in bags with 1000ish of those bags shipped from the UK to the US in a big box. Luckily, the wire leads are very flexible and bend back into place just as easily as they bend out of place. Also, we've found that they are pretty nice quality, so they are not really prone to snapping off. Just be slow and careful about assembly and all will be fine.

Check out Step 5 and Step 9 for two "net lists" of which pins to connect together. That should do the trick!

Those flash cards were extremely expensive and they work great. In fact, we paid more for them than they cost at Costco. Unfortunately, you cannot go into Costco and buy 3,000 flash cards. Also, please stop the whining about shipping. No one is "making" you do anything. If you don't like it, then don't buy it. Thank you!

From what I understand, shorting J1 on the LCD module bypasses the voltage regulator that converts the incoming 5V to the 3.3V needed by the LCD. J1 is intended to be shorted if you are providing 3.3V to the module to begin with. Shorting J1 is probably not a great idea if the supply to the module is 5V.

PLEASE NOTE: We just made an edit to Step 2 to add specific event details of interest to those heading out to Summer Camp in Las Vegas next week. We hope to see you there!

PLEASE NOTE: We just made an edit to Step 12 to add a Rev. B of the Badge Firmware. Changes: replaced beep() with code posted by sconklinadded BitHead graphic to LCD functionality clean up display text a little default to muted state display mute indicator on upper left of screen tighten timing loops for more "entertainment"

You might be using an older library.

It is the same type of diode as the one on the 5V USB input of the ESP32, but obviously not SMD. In theory, one could "combine it" with that one to isolate the USB and BAT voltage sources instead of using the jumper switch. It is probably a really bad idea though since the battery charger will also use the boosted battery voltage to charge (cannibalize?) itself. I'd suggest just sticking with the jumper switch. :)

https://arduino-esp8266.readthedocs.io/en/latest/

Tinning the thin wire with solder can build it up so that it is easier to work with.Note that you can also use a "3.5mm Audio Breakout Module" and an uncut 3.5mm cable to "breakout" the audio cable pins onto a solderless breadboard. It requires more parts, but it is certainly "easier".

Yes, the tabs on the sides of the rotary encoder should go into the corresponding slots on the PCB.

We're looking into this for you to see if we can figure it out. Just as a random note, when a transistor is drawings too much current (overheating) it may likely be due to one of the resistors around it not being the correct value.