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Hi again bad ars tinkerer , say does your 5 amp model ask for a blocking diode on positive out to prevent back flow from capactive or battery charging ? Mine doe's I just mentally compensate the small difference . Almost perfect device.
Kid that is a work of art . I built something similar for my lab last month . With three rails, using a 5- 48 volt 10 amp adjustable PS as rail #1. Drok 15 amp micro controller with monitor just like the grey 5 amp you are useing as rail #2. And a Drok 5 amp version exactly like yours as rail #3. As long as My Rail #1 is the highest voltage and overall amperage doesn't exceed my 10 amp PS I can use all 3 rails at the same time. I love the control those little units give you over amps, volts and the shut down presets if any parameters exceed the values. These way beat old school power supply's that cost way more money . Overall I give you 15 out of 10 stars and will gladly give you top votes in the contest.
Can't find where to vote for these left message on your FB convo
Oh sorry got mine from Drok might be subtle differences but yours looks same as my drok 15 amp version. Any way love your project looking to see you more on this media .
The little grey programmable cc cv ,CAUTION needs blocking diode on the 5 amp version. If outputting to capacitive or battery load. Good news is it now has a big brother that can sink 15 Amps. Great work a thing of beauty ! Also a very large AOE incendiary device, but you seem to have it under control . Kudo's btw I think you'll love Arduino just got into them recently has a little learning curve , but worth it. P.S. Just got two more of the 15 amp version love them dearly.
most white and blue led's have a 3.1 volt @ around 20 ma so the three volt battery should be fine it is however too much for a red , yellow or green led there you go . plz always try to know the voltage and amperage ratings before frying your hard earned parts. PS whilst some connections seem ok at first , even though the circuit works at first . LED's can get warm at too high a voltage - current it gets hotter draws more current , then more heat until Pafff and smoke . the resistor takes and dissipates this extra heat to prevent this from happening . so if it seems to work just outside the envelope , don't be fooled .
Suprised it took so long to for anyone to clarify this . Those output leads are connected to a variable resistor the output is from the wiper the other two are the outside leads of the variable resistor. Connect the out put to center conductor of a shielded cable and ground the shield , the center is the audio out . Hope this helps.