Henmarsh

Thanks for the response. The display screen itself has been removed; all I need to do is to keep the backlight on.

Thanks for those comprehensive references Jack - I appreciate the time you took to dig them out. I'll work through the links you give. As the actual TFT layer of the screen has been removed and only the LED backlight remains, I won't need (or indeed be able to!) drive the actual display at all. I don't have an oscilloscope (or indeed the knowledge to use one properly). I'd really like to use the built-in driver for the LEDs - it amazes me how such a simple re-purposing of broken displays into light sources hasn't been more widely documented!

This is *truly* magnificent in both conception and execution! Now, please may we have a Steampunk version with copper antimacassar shoulder guards (should the beast dare to rest his head), a crystal decolletage-curtain and a discreetly located miniaturised steam generator with brass control valves?

Ebay or Aliexpress. Google will find you hundreds of stores serving the US

Nice instructable but a few points. Paper is not a suitable material for the elevator hinge especially if you're using a gas motor. Proper hinges are available from model shops or you can use thin plastic sheet (transparency printing film is good).It is useful to add side thrust to the motor to keep the lines taut. Angle the engine mount a few degrees towards the right wing (opposite the control lines). Use a firm/hard piece of balsa for the elevator and cover it before attaching it to the wing for a much better finish. Plastic elevator horns are available which mave fitting and adjusting the elevator easier. Pushrods with threaded ends are available which allow for adjustment of the elevator angles. Control line flying, especially combat, is great fun - enjoy!