JETDRIVER1955

Nice work, however it will only work on ferrous objects.Get it to work on NON-FERROUS and you will have an enormous winner!!!!The majority of screws or nuts used in manufacturing these days are SS and subsequently non-ferrous!!And for those that winge about everything in life the Capitals are not yelling it’s just to get the item noticed!!!

Great idea which I've been doing for a long time now. I use 2 PACE DESOLDERING stations 1 with a small diameter tip and 1 with a large diameter that is getting worn out inside. I also use a 80W iron , a 2400W heat gun and a flame gun small. I strip the boards totally and drill out any crimped via's. The boards end up clean and after a quick run over with a sander. Then when I need to make a box etc for a project or for RF work I simply cut the old board to shape and either coat with copper foil or copper shim plate. I've found it's cheaper than buying FR4 from overseas. The components I mainly keep for my use are resistors 1w and higher metal film and metal oxide, some large voltage caps of recognised manufacturers . Inductors of various types, connectors, larger diodes and other items....

Great idea which I've been doing for a long time now. I use 2 PACE DESOLDERING stations 1 with a small diameter tip and 1 with a large diameter that is getting worn out inside. I also use a 80W iron , a 2400W heat gun and a flame gun small. I strip the boards totally and drill out any crimped via's. The boards end up clean and after a quick run over with a sander. Then when I need to make a box etc for a project or for RF work I simply cut the old board to shape and either coat with copper foil or copper shim plate. I've found it's cheaper than buying FR4 from overseas. The components I mainly keep for my use are resistors 1w and higher metal film and metal oxide, some large voltage caps of recognised manufacturers . Inductors of various types, connectors, larger diodes and other items. The caps I give to schools etc. I usually test with a DE-5000 also. When using either the heat gun or the flame you must be careful not to overheat and let fumes out. These can be toxic. DESOLDERING is the best with heat to cleanup other items like SMD etc.

Thanks for the reply Alex, much appreciated, looks as though there are a few making them now. I like the aluminium due to the weight factor, less chance of damage to the item being clamped compared to cast iron ones which are so heavy. They are however strong and seem to last for ever, and I've repaired a few very old ones over the years.Thanks againPeter

Thanks very much for the link to Carbatec. Have been on that site a few times never went to clamps though.

g'day I use similar TacTix containers from Bunnings here in Queensland.Cheap, good quality and very handy for lots of storage. They stack well, but you have given me an idea now to make easier access to them on my radio workbench. I have never seen those long Aluminium Sash Clamps before. Not here in OZ. Where did you get them, would be interested in how they compare in price to the original " T- shape " cast iron ones.

g'day well you have certainly created a very nice budget CNC.The use of the U-BOLTS AND BEARINGS is a BRILLIANT idea. One of the best I have seen yet. Keep up the excellent design and creation. I'll Vote. Peter

Thanks for this great Instructable the best Arduino one I have seen on the net.I will learn a lot from this and be able to finally get into Arduino. Thanks for the excellent documentation and visual explanation of programming. Very much appreciated.

thanks heaps for showing this I've been looking for ages for something similar since my w.e.p. Station died and I'm using parts from that to build desoldering and solder station with hot air gun. Will definitely be going in larger container, may reuse the old w.e.p. 3 in one unit housing. Will send pix when done. Thanks again for this.