JackSoldano

That look's awesome now,can't see any light bleed to the surrounding letters! Thanks for thedescription on how you achieved this without a 3D printer I'm sure lots ofpeople will appreciate that.Let me know if you have an instructables for this build,I'll give it a favourite!

Sounds like exactly what Ihad in mind with my Issue 3 Comment in the lessons learned step, sounds like a nicesolution :)I will have to give it a try at some point, when I get another ESP module or repurpose one in use around the house. I might update my officeESP Motion light switch & temperature monitor to also be a word clock. Hmmm interesting idea.Thanks again for the update Andy, glad you found the guide interesting,yeah unfortunately I don't see a way around the light bleed between letterswith your solution. A horrible potential solution that comes to mind might be some wooden lolly sticksas the grid divider and clear (Ish) hot glue as the light guide between?

Awesome, looks good Andy! I see so how exactly are you grabbing the time via the ESP8266?

Thanks Smulgaonkar!

Thanks Seamster!

I sometimes have issues like this for no obvious reason, I would make a backup of your libs folder then deleate everything in the working one. Try adding the libs back in one by one until you pin down the issue. I sometimes get issues like this when I have two of the same lib installed or something like that. Best of luck!

Hey Kyan, don't see why not! Be sure to upload photos if you manage it :)

Great Project, really interesting aproach well exicuted and documented!

Great guide daniel! really clear and well exicuted :) Have you considered connecting up the Fan & Leds to the Arduino controlling the water pumps to modulate / log on time?

Hi, not totally sure whatyour issue is, if you could detail your circuit setup and HW config maybe wecan debug the issue.Can you confirm you are using the same display module (TM1637)?The Pin map is poor but I did not spend much time on that asits redundant after you look at the pin definitions in the code I provided.Below I've detailed thedisplay pins, once these are connected you just need to provide the TM1637 withPWR & GND. The diagram is redundant again as there are many differentvariants of this display module with different ordered pin outs. If the pinsbelow are not appropriate for you setup, you can just redefine them. const byte PIN_CLK= 8; // define CLK pin (any digital pin) ** Pin D8 const byte PIN_DIO= 7; // define DIO pin (any digital pin) ** Pin D7I'm not sure what lev…

Hi, not totally sure whatyour issue is, if you could detail your circuit setup and HW config maybe wecan debug the issue.Can you confirm you are using the same display module (TM1637)?The Pin map is poor but I did not spend much time on that asits redundant after you look at the pin definitions in the code I provided.Below I've detailed thedisplay pins, once these are connected you just need to provide the TM1637 withPWR & GND. The diagram is redundant again as there are many differentvariants of this display module with different ordered pin outs. If the pinsbelow are not appropriate for you setup, you can just redefine them. const byte PIN_CLK= 8; // define CLK pin (any digital pin) ** Pin D8 const byte PIN_DIO= 7; // define DIO pin (any digital pin) ** Pin D7I'm not sure what level of electronic knowledge you have butif you are capable of reading a part DS & solder I would assume you couldresolve this issue quite easily (Especially if you have worked on militarygrade systems...)I would recommend validatingthat the display works using the examples in the provided library beforeattempting the full system code.Unless you provide more detailed explanations for the issuesyou are having I cannot help further.

It looks like you have a different version of the LCD driver, you might need to try some alternatives

This was from Maplins, to be honest any box 3D printed or purchased could work :)

See attached for the library I used for this project, replace your LCD library with this zip.

Try replacing your LCD driver with this

Hi Jonathan, Awesome job and great idea with the UV lights they look great, I've ordered some to try out myself and some UV Reactive Green PLA samples for the plasma ball in the tube! Thanks for sharing your build and I'm glad you enjoyed it! Jack

Hi, is it a 4 bit 7 segment display? you will need to follow another guide of how to configure it like this one to get there working https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub/SAnwandter1/programming-4-digit-7-segment-led-display-2d33f8The issue with doing this is that my code will not work, you would need to rewrite the display sections. I would advice either buying a cheap TM1637 IC and find a guide on setting that up or the better option would be to buy a TM1637 4 bit 7 segment display module like I used otherwise the wiring can get messy!

The TM1637 is ac IC that handles the 4 digit 7 segment display connctions, so that TM1637 chip connects to the 8 pins on the display itself. The chip drives the LEDs in the display based on simple I2C commands it recieves from the Arduino.This means that the Arduino only need to use 2 pins Rx and Tx instead of the 8 pins that the LCD Display needs. Also now that we are just sending standard I2C signals it makes it much easier to programme everything.Using modules like this is always easier especially when using a small microcontroller like an Arduino Nano, as it has very limited I/O.

Hey, that is a possible solution I think although I don't know how bright this method would be. I'm quite interested in how the Funko Toy Ricks Portal Gun does it (seen here https://youtu.be/9eXw0bzWeRw?t=123). I think its just a High power LED behind a lens with the portal image on it which would be nice and simple. I'd be tempted to buy one to see how they did it if they were on sale.

Hi Sorry I did mention it briefly on 3D printed parts slide which in retrospect is probably the wrong place. You are correct it is a bubble sword like this one, I got it from a local shop for £1 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bubble-Wand-Sword-Child...

Nice one, I've very interesting in building one of these myself! Thanks

Can confirm that yes it does work if you are not Rick! Unfortunately the real portals only work for Rick :)

Hi Jamie, Actually that's a really good idea I did plan to do something like that initially but totally forgot about it. I might have a look at modelling something tonight and possibly try printing it in either Green or Natural PLA not sure what would work best

Just finished watching your Youtube video where you used this, once I've finished with my LoRa project I think this is next on the to-do list! :)