Thanks. I don't have a schematic. At the time when I was making this instructable I didn't know how to use any circuit design software so I had to draw every schematic manualy and that's hard. Now I'm learning some basics with Autodesk Eagle so I can try to make one. But I don't think it's really necessary. All of the connections are exactly the same as in the original acoustic levitator (which already has a schematic) except for that there is a LM2577 and a switch between DC barrel and the input of L298N. Also, I added four LEDs and a switch and I made I scheme for that.
Hyperspectral FlashlightView Instructable »
This is just so cool! Awesome idea.
What infill percentage did you print the case with?
20$ Explosives DetonatorView Instructable »
I saved one of the files in SVG. You can try that. It should be 126x33mm. Also I recommend using CorelDraw since all of the models have been drawn there.
Sure. It should be in the files offer by now. The file name is small part.pdf.
I agree that the frequency is within hearing range of pets but the acoustic waves are pretty much trapped inside of the levitator. We have cats home and even when I turn it on next to them, they don't respond. And even if they did, you can just put them in the other room.Thanks to ThingEngineer we know that even slightest changes of the frequency can drasticly lower the power of the levitator. It teoreticly could work at 100khz but it would mean completely redesining whole device, so basically starting from scratch."Over all the design seems to be dead on perfect for creating the most trapping strength as is. Even a slight modification in distance by stretching or squeezing the two halves apart or together results in a drastic drop in visible acoustic pressure levels. I also experi...
I agree that the frequency is within hearing range of pets but the acoustic waves are pretty much trapped inside of the levitator. We have cats home and even when I turn it on next to them, they don't respond. And even if they did, you can just put them in the other room.Thanks to ThingEngineer we know that even slightest changes of the frequency can drasticly lower the power of the levitator. It teoreticly could work at 100khz but it would mean completely redesining whole device, so basically starting from scratch."Over all the design seems to be dead on perfect for creating the most trapping strength as is. Even a slight modification in distance by stretching or squeezing the two halves apart or together results in a drastic drop in visible acoustic pressure levels. I also experimented with slightly above and below 40KHz with the same result." ThingEngineer
Thanks. I made multiple designs from multiple materials and ended up with this one. And, you were right that chunks of wood don't look so good as the same chunks of acrylic. There are just two things to keep in mind when using acrylic. 1) You can't drill in it because it may break. You have to laser cut all holes.2) Acrylic can be scratched.
Thanks. I'm glad to hear that.
Acoustic Levitator CaseView Instructable »
I already have acoustic levitator built and I'm satisfied with it and also my budget is little drained, so I don't want to build this I'm just wondering. Is this also more powerfull than TinyLev? And also you say that bigLev can lift solids up to 6g, so how much weight can TinyLev and this ultrasonic aray lift?I started ordering components before the kit was available so I got it for like 110$.
What's the price of the standing wave levitator?
Hi,levitating fluids is a very hard task. I could not get it working the first two weeks, but after some practise, I did it. The key two things when levitating droplets are:1) The angle of the needle2) The voltage you put into the levitatorAlso, levitating small droplets at high voltage is a lot easier than levitating big at lower voltage. That's because with small droplets, you don't have to care about surface tension. When you put a big droplet inside levitator when voltage is about 12V, the big droplet will immediately break down into hundreds of smaller droplets, and some of them will stay levitating.Hope that this will help you
Hi,I'm preparing version 3.0. In this version, I want do add LM2577 (variable step-up converter), li-ion battery and charging module, so it'll gonna run on rechargable batteries. I'll post a separate instructable about how to make this nice little case. Some process pics:
OK. Give me your email adress. But there are some mistakes and I can't fix them because my trial version of corel draw already expired. But I'll try to redraw it in some other program.
Ok. What's the device under the particles? Is it something new? Why are the transducers aranged in such shape?
Did you meant the UV paint for the case or for the particles?
Hi,I build a case for the levitator using laser cut MDF. It's very robust and it hides all the electronics inside. It also serves as a stand because of it's rectangular shape. It also has a control panel where a switch can be placed and I also plan to add there a DC-DC step up module with display. I added two LEDs so others can see tiny particles levitating even in dark enviroment. I realy recommend this if you want your levitator to be nice and safe. If you want it to look more futuristic, you can cut it from acrylic, so you can see what's inside. But I like the mdf design more. Here are some pics:
I think that 3D printing is litte more expensive and it will take more time to print. But it can be interesting and it can fit more to the curvature. Do your case cover the conections? Could you send me a STL file of the case to my mail: firstname.lastname@example.org ? When I will draw plans for the plexiglass case I can send it to you. But maybe I will like your idea so much that i will just 3D print it. I don't know what to do now. Thanks.
Solar (so sunlight). It's used in every weather station. This is a low cost vesion of aluminium radiation shield. Google it
Tissue Box Cover From Web App
That's great. It's good to know that I'm not the only one at this age here. How far are you now (what part are you building)? I'm now wondering about making some armour from plexiglass for the levitator to make it more durable and I also added some LEDs so you can see the tiny particle levitating even in dark enviroment. I'll post photos later.
I want to buy an variable power adapter. What maximum output current should it have (600ma or 1000ma)?
Hi Asier,I made IT!! I spent like 9 hours today working on this but I think but it was worth it. I received transducers just this morning and now I have fully working levitator. Instructions were very easy to follow. Now I just need to 3D print legs to the levitator and buy an arduino nano to make this device more portable. I will try to power this levitator by li-ion batteries in future. But the legs will be little tricky since I'm not very experienced at 3D modeling. So thank you for sharing instructions to this amazing device.
It's happening the same to me.
Also when I connect it the frequency starts rising at first and then it starts decreasing so I realy can't mark the polarity from this. Do you have some clues?
Hi David,I used the same method for mrking polarity as you, except I did not poke something into transducer I did blow some air to the transducer. I was suprised that all my 72 transducers were marked corectly. I think this method is better than using osciloscope. BTW I'm seventh grade student at elementary school.
Hi Asier,For the 3D printed base, what material did you use? What resolution (0.06mm or 0.15mm or other)? What infilling percentage? How long did it take to print?
Hi kamil47,this is realy interesting project. I find it useful as a low cost bench power supply and I want to build it sometime soon. Could you please send me file the front sticker label? I would realy appreciate that. My email adress is email@example.com.