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I did this setup last year, to one of my cabinets. It was pretty easy. Take the toe-kick face off and build a drawer box that fit. I used all scrap stuff from other projects. Then I cut the toe-kick down in height so as to clear the floor as well as a way to grab it and clear the from of the cabinet face. When it is fully closed, it is hard to see unless you are looking or sitting down lower. We use it for the dog food dishes so they are out of the way. I plan to do the same to the other cabinets too. Put stuff like platters and cookie sheets etc , in them. Also plan to someday cover the dishwasher to match the cabinets. Looks like my images might be upside down...
Not that I would ever do anything with or to a Mac, but couldn't you just notch your screen frame for your home button? See, my Android devices all have soft buttons for Home/Back/Recent, no problems there.
Don't add cement to a pre-mixed concrete. Concrete has the sand and gravel (aggravate) mixed in the proper proportion at the factory to attain the rated strength. If you add sand you need to add cement in proper amounts. Concrete and cement are NOT the same. Cement is used in concrete. Cement is the glue and hence the reason it is used in glue terms as well....rubber cement, etc.
A mortar mix or a grout mix would indeed show more detail, however, both would make the delicate item even more delicate. Concrete has gravel in it to help strengthen the mix. Mortar and grout are similar to concrete with out the gravel, and the sand to cement ratio different.
Examples in the USA is at Home Depot, Howard-Butcher Block Conditioner and Hardwood Reflections-Butcher Block Mineral Oil. As for outside the USA, check Amazon and search for butcher block oil or conditioner, examples I found are Inspired-Butchers Block Oil as well as Howard-Butcher Block Conditioner. I use the Howard conditioner on my butcher block and wood cutting boards. It has beeswax and has a wonderful honey/beeswax smell when you apply it.
Great idea, however, in preserving the wood, best to not use a cooking oil as they will go rancid, attract other grease and grime and basically spoil. If you want to keep it simple, the best is mineral oil (food grade) or beeswax. When doing cutting boards I use a beeswax cutting board product. You apply it in the same fashion, in layers until it seems to absorb no more. Then re-apply as needed over time.
So, it's a little harder to make with heavier duty hangers. They don't bend very well to glue together. That said, hot glue is great because it dries fast....but.....doesn't stick to well to the plastic hangers. There might be another glue that would work better, but most of those either take hours to dry...or epoxy that dries to fast and has to be mixed properly. I did get one built with hit glue, and I built a smaller version with infant hangers. Let me say this, the adult hanger one, once fully assembled, is huge. Mine measured approximately 2 1/2'. The smaller infant one is about 2' across.