JimTheSoundman

It also reminds me of this: https://youtu.be/50pl9u6tyTc?t=68

There aren't any pictures of you doing the actual resin casting. That would have been helpful. To me that's the most unique part of the process and you skipped right over it.I see the empty mold, and I see the finished product, but nothing in between.

I agree that this is a great idea. I'd like to start the ball rolling with a few ideas. First, let's discuss what a ventilator does, and break it down into it's component tasks, and then discuss how those could be replicated with non-medical devices.I'm not involved in the medical field at all, but from what I've read, a ventilator:- Blows air into the patients lungs- Patient usually exhales on their own, but sometimes the ventilator does that for them also- The ventialtor needs a way to administer oxygen from a tank as part of the inflowing air- The air also needs to be warmed and humidified before entering the lungsNow, when I was first thinking about this, I started thinking about a player piano.If you ever have studied how a player piano worked, you would pump foot pedals and that…

I agree that this is a great idea. I'd like to start the ball rolling with a few ideas. First, let's discuss what a ventilator does, and break it down into it's component tasks, and then discuss how those could be replicated with non-medical devices.I'm not involved in the medical field at all, but from what I've read, a ventilator:- Blows air into the patients lungs- Patient usually exhales on their own, but sometimes the ventilator does that for them also- The ventialtor needs a way to administer oxygen from a tank as part of the inflowing air- The air also needs to be warmed and humidified before entering the lungsNow, when I was first thinking about this, I started thinking about a player piano.If you ever have studied how a player piano worked, you would pump foot pedals and that would create a vacuum with bellows, this vacuum could be used for many tasks, it would turn a roll of paper which activated the keys, and the vacuum also activated each key when the roll of paper told it to. So it was a very simple, yet very complex device, made of only wood, leather, brass, and a few steel parts, nothing electrical and nothing that required complex machining. I was thinking the same sort of bellows system could be used for a ventilator. Obviously you would need something electric to replace the foot pedals, as it would be impractical to have someone pumping foot pedals 24 hours a day, but the rest of it seems very straight forward. Generating vacuum would be easier than generating pressure, as you can build a spring operated reservoir which would hold the vacuum at a more or less constant pressure. All player pianos had this. Then if you built a sort of see-saw mechanism with two air chambers, the vacuum applied to one side would cause pressure on the other side. Player pianos had two foot pedals each with it's own bellows (actually technically called an exhauster) and when you were pushing on one and creating vacuum, the other was resetting itself. You could do the same thing with this see-saw mechanism, in fact, you could probably set it up so it could do two patients at once, with each side alternating pressure and vacuum. You'd have to make some sort of flexible diaphragm, which would be tough enough to stretch millions of times and not break, but flexible enough that you could get the right amount of air pushed into the lungs. Maybe a diaphragm made of that rubber shower pan liner? I've used that for other projects and it's relatively tough and still pretty stretchy for it's thickness. I've never used it for something like this however so it might not be the right solution.Then once you had the pressure/vacuum mix both in speed and intensity/volume, then the only thing else you would need is a way to humidify and warm the air, but it seems to me that if you had a warm water bath, and had a simple clean dishrag stretched taut, with one end in the warm water bath, then capillary action would pull the warm water up over the dishrag, and if you were pulling air through that dishrag then the air would be warmed and humidified at the same time. I don't know how you would regulate the warm water bath though. Maybe with a fish tank heater?The other problem would be monitoring all this. Obviously in a perfect world we could set up Arduino or Raspberry Pi to thermocouples and be able to read temps and humidity and pressure and vacuum, but this is going to need to be a battlefield sort of setup, so there is no way to make it that complicated. Making a water gauge for pressure or vacuum is simple, it's just a tube filled with water with inch markings on the side and the pressure or vacuum with push or pull the water in the tube and let you know how things are going, but I don't know a quick and easy way to monitor temperatures or humidity. Something like an oven thermometer would be nice, but those don't operate in the 70-110 degree range that we would need. Someone smarter than me would need to conjure up a solution to that part of the problem. Then the last part of the puzzle is making it a standardized design that anyone with a sheet of plywood and a CNC machine can churn out. It needs to be quick, built from the thinnest and lightest materials possible, preferably plywood, as that is pretty much available worldwide, as opposed to lexan or aluminum or anything else that may not be obtainable. It needs to have unique connections between parts, so that it will only fit together one way and one way only, as many people assembling it may not have the time or expertise to read complicated instructions, so every part needs to be painfully obvious where it fits. It needs to have a locally sourced motor of some sort, which has a standard base. I don't know what that would be, maybe a windshield wiper motor? Seems like that would be available anywhere, it runs off of 12v which can be sourced anywhere in the world, and I think if you picked a common vehicle which was available worldwide, like a Nissan or something, it would be easy to make a common bolt pattern hole cutout which would be usable anywhere in the world.I'll be very interested to hear everyone's thoughts.

Could you give us a rundown on all the costs? Also a rough timeframe of how many hours it took?

This isn't really an instructable. An instructable shows you how to replicate the project yourself in a step-by-step manner. This is just a finished product and a blanket statement to "figure it out yourself" which is kind of the antithesis of what this site is all about.

What was the total cost in materials?What would you estimate the total hours of labor to be?

Instead of buying Oreos for the dirt, use "Nabisco Famous Chocolate Wafers" as they are the same thing as Oreos, but without any filling. https://goo.gl/images/PF7BQG

Greaseproof paper is a British term for what Americans call waxed paper, but you could probably use parchment paper also. You might have to experiment to see which works best for you.If you want to upgrade from there, you can go to a theatrical lighting supply company and buy "diffusion gel" which is the plastic sheets that they put over theatrical lights to produce the same effect. And actually, probably any sort of thin white fabric would also work, but it might get dirty or dusty over time.

This would be excellent for a home studio, but I'd love to see a second instructable for one which can be disassembled for travel, and is more durable. I would think that this foil and paper and cardboard would end up destroyed in a matter of weeks if you tried to take this on the road with you.

You didn't mention the fact that you will have to somehow disable the constant beeping of the power loss alarm.

So what caused the power supply to fail initially?

I agree with Artskater, OSB is a bad choice for the top deck, you should use pressure treated plywood. That OSB will swell up and fall apart in a matter of days or weeks unless kept perfectly dry.

I agree with XinixE. I have been an audio engineer for 31 years and I've always used WD-40 for cleaning the faders on my mixing boards when they started to sound scratchy, never had a problem in the least. It's a great contact cleaner.As for the people saying that you shouldn't get it on your hands because the MSDS says prolonged contact will be harmful: The key word there is "PROLONGED." That means if you go to work and have it on your hands for 8 hours every day, then you are going to have problems. That seems like common sense to me. Using it to clean your hands for five minutes is not prolonged contact and you will suffer no ill effects.

I agree with XinixE. I have been an audio engineer for 31 years and I've always used WD-40 for cleaning the faders on my mixing boards when they started to sound scratchy, never had a problem in the least. It's a great contact cleaner.As for the people saying that you shouldn't get it on your hands because the MSDS says prolonged contact will be harmful: The key word there is "PROLONGED." That means if you go to work and have it on your hands for 8 hours every day, then you are going to have problems. That seems like common sense to me. Using it to clean your hands for five minutes is not prolonged contact and you will suffer no ill effects.

I agree with XinixE. I have been an audio engineer for 31 years and I've always used WD-40 for cleaning the faders on my mixing boards when they started to sound scratchy, never had a problem in the least. It's a great contact cleaner.As for the people saying that you shouldn't get it on your hands because the MSDS says prolonged contact will be harmful: The key word there is "PROLONGED." That means if you go to work and have it on your hands for 8 hours every day, then you are going to have problems. That seems like common sense to me. Using it to clean your hands for five minutes is not prolonged contact and you will suffer no ill effects.

@pgabriel3 - Why would you want to use an electric motor to generate electricity? Doesn't make any sense. Electric generators are usually powered by something other than electricity, such as steam or water or gasoline or diesel fuel. But yes, a electrical generator works on basically these same principles. Instead of using an electromagnet to spin a wheel, you are doing the opposite, spinning the wheel first with a turbine or a pulley or belt, and the interaction between magnetic forces will then generate electricity.

Now make one that says "None Shall Pass" which is the Black Knight's saying from MP & The Holy Grail.

Just so everyone knows... do NOT use a giant knife switch like this with anything above 12 volts. If you try to use a knife switch with 120v or 240v AC you might get a nasty shock.It appears that this knife switch in this Instructable is simply used as a mounting plate and the brown and blue wires (240v AC) are bypassing it completely. So that's the correct way to do it.

I don't understand what "rooter" means. Did you mean "router"?

400 watts divided by 12 volts is 33.33 amps. You can check this chart to see what size wire you need for 33 amps. http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/...Then on the output side, 400 watts divided by 120 volts is 3.33 amps.The other thing to consider is that no inverter is 100% efficient, so if it's putting out 92% to 96% of what it takes in from the battery, you are doing good. So keep that in mind and oversize the input wires a bit to give yourself a safety margin.Also, you should have a fuse somewhere inline on both the input and the output, in case of an accidental short circuit. Many inverters have an automatic circuit breaker built in, but make sure yours does. If not, you can get an inline fuse at any autoparts store.

HP Sauce is a unique product unto itself, but the closest equivalent American product would be A-1 Steak Sauce.

I agree. Split it up into managable sessions. Just tell yourself "I will work on this every day from 1pm to 2:30pm" and that will force you to set aside that time every day, just as though it was a job where you had to show up on time or get fired. Make sure you are ready to work exactly at 1pm and don't take any breaks until 2:30pm. You'll be surprised at how much you'll get done.

If you try to make this all in one day it will look like garbage. Take your time and do it right. You'll be so much happier in the end. Remember this is something you'll be looking at for ten or twenty years, you don't want to be reminded of all the shortcuts you took, every time you sit down next to it.

He said he got it from a local glass company for 100 bucks.I'm sure they used something insanely expensive to cut it, like a water jet cutter, so it's probably much better than trying to cut it yourself. Sometimes there is just no substitute for having a professional deal with it.

Taz, what you need to do is just get an "old work" blue plastic wall box and a blank plate. Install the old work box, with the romex inside it. Then use a couple red wire nuts to cap off the cut ends of the wires. Then fold them up in the box and put the blank plate over it. If you ever end up needing to install something there at a later time, it will be still there, ready and waiting for a new use.

The finish on this looks amazing. I'm definitely going to steal that idea.Just so everyone knows, the formal name for this is a "Double Knife Blade Switch" in case anyone needs to look up a picture of a real one.

Yes, the sizes are the nominal sizes, what we nowadays would refer to as "rough lumber." Long ago the lumber mills offered finished lumber as an option and most people ended up buying it that way, but to avoid confusion, the lumbermills kept the same "rough cut" name. So almost all lumber nowadays is sold S4S, which means "surfaced four sides" which is why a 2 x 4 is only 1.5 x 3.5.

I think the finished product looks wonderful, but I do see one flaw in your plan. What happens if you move? That would be difficult to take off the wall, as you covered up the screws holding to the wall with the lath strips.I would think a french cleat hanger would work better. Or maybe two, one high and one low. You could still use the trim strips on the edges to hide the gap. Then if you ever need to move, just lift it off the wall. French cleat hangars are very strong and very stable.

I take it part two of the video isn't completed yet. To propel it through the water, why don't you make something that turns the rotational force of the back wheel into a spinning crankshaft to drive propellers? Imagine if you were able to squeeze two polyurethane tires, like a pair of inline skate wheels, against the side of the standard bike tire. You would need some sort of clamping mechanism that could be easily released of course to move them away from the back tire when you were on the road, sort of like how bicycle caliper brakes squeeze the back tire. So now imagine a steel rod attached to those two skate tires, and angled down at about 30 degrees into the water. Put a propeller on each steel rod and you have a nice little propeller system with two propellers.Next step after t…

I take it part two of the video isn't completed yet. To propel it through the water, why don't you make something that turns the rotational force of the back wheel into a spinning crankshaft to drive propellers? Imagine if you were able to squeeze two polyurethane tires, like a pair of inline skate wheels, against the side of the standard bike tire. You would need some sort of clamping mechanism that could be easily released of course to move them away from the back tire when you were on the road, sort of like how bicycle caliper brakes squeeze the back tire. So now imagine a steel rod attached to those two skate tires, and angled down at about 30 degrees into the water. Put a propeller on each steel rod and you have a nice little propeller system with two propellers.Next step after that is to put a sliding dropdown rudder on the front wheel to steer.

If you are clever you should be able to guess where Yonatan lives by examining that pill bottle.

This isn't an Instrucible. It has no instructions. Unless you watch the video you have no idea how to make this. The author needs to put actual real step by step instructions on how to build this, otherwise this is nothing more than an advertisement for a video.

I'm all about peace and love, but I also think there should be some minimum standards to be considered an Instructable. Otherwise anyone could post anything. This place isn't supposed to be a "Ooooh lookie lookie see what I've built!" site, it's supposed to be a resource for newbies. I agree with Endlesshunt that if you don't have instructions for beginners, then it's useless, the experts already have the needed skills and so wouldn't even be watching it. I also think drawing a parallel with IKEA is not really applicable, as IKEA provides all the necessary parts, and each part is clearly diagrammed or labeled so there is no confusion. In this Instructable the only thing labeled is the length of the metal rod at 420mm. But what kind of rod is it? Steel, I would assume. …

I'm all about peace and love, but I also think there should be some minimum standards to be considered an Instructable. Otherwise anyone could post anything. This place isn't supposed to be a "Ooooh lookie lookie see what I've built!" site, it's supposed to be a resource for newbies. I agree with Endlesshunt that if you don't have instructions for beginners, then it's useless, the experts already have the needed skills and so wouldn't even be watching it. I also think drawing a parallel with IKEA is not really applicable, as IKEA provides all the necessary parts, and each part is clearly diagrammed or labeled so there is no confusion. In this Instructable the only thing labeled is the length of the metal rod at 420mm. But what kind of rod is it? Steel, I would assume. But I don't know, and that's the point. What is the diameter? Why is the baseplate green? Why does it have a slot chiseled out of it? What sort of motor? What voltage? Where can I buy this motor? How is the power controlled for the motor? Is there even an on/off switch? How do I keep the wood blocks from sliding around? What do I use for a tool rest? I could go on and on, but hopefully you get my point.