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  • I made my own etching solution, which I won't go into here. I use easyeda to design my circuit boards, then print a mirror PDF at 1:1 of the top, and the the bottom as normal. I use cheap photo paper from Walmart. at the highest resolution of my printer. I find that toner will make a really good image that won't come off the board easily. You should were plastic gloves and same the copper with 1000 grit wet and dry sandpaper. Then wipe it down with goo-gone, or acetone, or nail polish remover that has acetone in it. The copper has to be really clean, and the sanding creates a greater surface area, just like for painting, the microgrooves from sanding gives the image more surface area to grab to. My etching solution etches my board in 5 or 10 minutes. If I vibrate the solution, it speeds …

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    I made my own etching solution, which I won't go into here. I use easyeda to design my circuit boards, then print a mirror PDF at 1:1 of the top, and the the bottom as normal. I use cheap photo paper from Walmart. at the highest resolution of my printer. I find that toner will make a really good image that won't come off the board easily. You should were plastic gloves and same the copper with 1000 grit wet and dry sandpaper. Then wipe it down with goo-gone, or acetone, or nail polish remover that has acetone in it. The copper has to be really clean, and the sanding creates a greater surface area, just like for painting, the microgrooves from sanding gives the image more surface area to grab to. My etching solution etches my board in 5 or 10 minutes. If I vibrate the solution, it speeds it up a lot. The iron should be in its hottest mode, NO STEAM, then do as instructed, If the board is two sided, do one side, then drill the biggest holes in several places, an use those holes to line up the opposite side of the board. If you use needles, you can use those to line up the holes you drill with the other side of the board. Lining up the opposite side of the board is a tricky process, and takes a lot of practice.

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  • Or you can buy one of these off Ebay for under $40, and program thousands of chips, including the Atmel Tiny series and all others. I've been using this programmer for years, and the newest model is even better for a little more money. Lot's of my friends own one of these as well. https://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Speed-TL866CS-Programmer-USB-EPROM-EEPROM-FLASH-BIOS-AVR-AL-PIC/171997875525?epid=1348334480&hash=item280bdf4d45:g:up8AAMXQ8odRHahe:rk:9:pf:0

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  • Do you have any concerns about cracks developing in the surface? I once read that concrete cracks, and that is a sure thing, but I also know that with the use of polymer additives, it can help concrete have greater strength, but I'm not so sure that it applies to using the concrete for a counter top versus a drive way, or to patch a drive way. I do know that some of the bagged concrete mix I can buy in America does include polymers, and that is mostly for patching, or adding concrete to already hardened concrete, I think that the polymers help the new concrete stick to the old concrete and not break away once hardened. So my question still stands, do you have any concerns about cracks developing, and if not, did you find something in your research that put you at ease about cracking?

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