KEUrban

Thanks very much!

Where did you source your pool table?

This is beautiful work. I find it fascinating.Could you answer a few questions for me? Here's a dimensioned drawing from your provided DXF file:1. When (in step 1) you specify a 10 cm part, is the above drawing dimensioned correctly?2. How are the widths of the two slots (0.71 cm and 0.51 cm) related to the material thickness? You state that 10 cm part uses 3 mm material, and a part scaled six times larger uses 18 mm. What about material 19 mm thick (which is around a standard US lumber thickness of 0.75 inches)?3. Is the radius of the bottom of the part related to the radius of a sphere that you could build from the parts?

A great solution to avoid what Shakespeare might have called, "Murder most fowl."

This is great. You've got to draw the line somewhere!

Nice work. In my quick review I didn't see how you set angles. Do you use a digital angle gauge like this? https://www.harborfreight.com/digital-angle-gauge-63615.html

Nice! Reminds me of what I made for my daughter's wedding:https://www.instructables.com/Building-Large-Lighted-Marquee-Letters/

Smooth as a dolphin? I admire a man with a porpoise.

Nice work. I've thought about a similar use for a scissor jack for an adjustable router table.Can you help me understand why you added the stop blocks? Scissor jacks by design aren't prone to move from the postion where they're stopped. So it seems that the stop blocks are superfluous.

This is very cool. However, can someone explain if this pediatrician will get a DMCA takedown notice? It's one thing to cosplay... I think it's completely different to put something like this in a commercial facility. Thoughts?

Great project. I have a couple of questions: How did you finish the bottom of the table? Did you cover the cavity?Did you use corded lights? If so, where did you run the power cord to the transformer?Again, great project.

Thanks for the extra oicture... So you don't get any downlight from the LEDs? That's why I assumed you added a flat cover on the underside. Perhaps four or six t-nuts with stainless steel cap or acorn nuts to hold it on for easy access?

I would love seeing a timelapse you've shot with this rig.

For when you're lying down on the job?

Inspiring, beautiful work!

Living in someplace that is not Australia, I can confirm that here at least the scratches are not caused by marsupial vandals (since the only marsupial native to North America isn't tall enough to reach the door handle).YMMV.

Quite often, you can find great drawings of the device case in the PDF manual for the product. You can either print out the page or use a screen clipper to capture the drawing, then place the fasteners on that drawing.

This is an amazing job for some very fortunate children. This brings back memories of the backyard structures my parents built for us, including a Western fort, a locomotive, sand car, and caboose. Endless hours of fun and play.

Where's a video?

I use my standard neck strap without issue (I like the straps relatively long anyway; if you look in the photos in Step 5 you'll see the snap hooks are located near the end of the strap).One of the nicest things about this setup is the extra stability I get shooting because I find myself putting my left hand on the handhold for the inverted camera.

Glad you found it useful. I'm liking this setup more every day.

Thanks. The photo of your dual 1/4-20 hardware led me to finding the same part at B&H Photo, although it took a bit of searching. There's a link to it in the final step of my instructable.

This is a great idea. I just linked to you in an instructable I just posted on a quick-release camera strap modification: https://www.instructables.com/Camera-Strap-Quic...Thanks for this idea.

What custom keyboard mapping software does she use?

For our first game, we were on a roll.

And I can't resist: If it ain't baroque, don't fix it.

I want to try this with my Silhouette Cameo and Curio cutters... Now, all I need is a project!

Nice Instructable. I noticed in step 2 you wrote, "Then cut 2 lengths at 26 1/2" This will be your legs"The cut list says to cut 4, so this may be a typo.

Kiteman, just tried it again and it worked from within Firefox. I have been trying this repeatedly since the Instructable was published, to no avail. Why it works now probably involves dark magik and smoldering incense.

I tried it about 45 minutes ago and it worked. Thanks for the help!

A couple of questions:What's the purpose of the shallow hole at the top of the shape? Is it to provide a secure spot for the foot of the clamp?Where do you use the magnets? I'm assuming on the base to secure to the table top?

A couple of questions:What's the purpose of the shallow hole at the top of the shape? Is it to provide a secure spot for the foot of the clamp?

I leave the burgers in the press; both the burger press and the dividers I make using thing cutting mats are made of food-safe plastic and the temps for sous vide cooking are low enough that I feel comfortable with that. Liquid smoke is a great addition.I hear a lot of comments about food safety concerns surrounding temperatures in sous vide cooking. I encourage you to read the excellent writing on the subject by Kenji Lopez-Alt at Serious Eats; the article can be found at the following link: (http://www.seriouseats.com/2015/07/the-food-lab-co... He includes both a table and a graph using USDA data showing how sous vide cooking pasteurizes the meat.As a former scientist, I'm comfortable with these data, but of course food safety is ultimately a decision for the individual.

Extremely nice. I'll be trying this out on my Silhouette and Cameo cutters. Thanks for creating this.

Those look great. What type of lights did you use?

Redweaver, you might want to read this great article at Serious Eats about myths related to cast iron cookware... Soap isn't an issue; leaving a cast iron pan soak is:http://www.seriouseats.com/2014/11/the-truth-about...