Lee Wilkerson

I like it! I am also one of those why doesn't properly hydrate since I stopped drinking soft drinks.

Great job, but the schematic is overcomplicated. Neither resistors, grounds, nor ceramic capacitors are polarized. GND is a more than sufficient marker, too.

I have this same media head in a stereo system I built for my car. I coupled it with two 2x100W amplifiers, although the amps actually only make 85.5 WRMS/channel from a 12V source. That's still 85.5 times four. It gives me tinitis in a half hour.I also tried two earlier media head versions, but they both bit the dust already.

Nice build!

For every 10 degrees C of transistor collector junction temperature, you lose half of the transistor's life.There is no danger in have too much heatsink, but too little is a waste of money and time!

Better than HiFi.

Your "2x100W Class D Audio Amplifier Board with volume board" link is broken.

Hint: Use some color other than blue which turns off the brain's production of Melatonin - the sleep chemical.

Having built serious hundreds of electronics projects over the course of my life and, having a tremendous love for music, most of them are audio related.My stereo system in my living room pushes over 700 WRMS because I added two of those amps I mentioned in my other comment on this page.With a 12V supply, they make 165 WRMS (82.5 WRMS/channel). With 24V, they make 100 per channel.I volunteer my expertise to anyone who needs it. Last year, I assisted a friend remotely to correctly troubleshoot and repair a high powered Harmon Kardon (common hardon) amplifier. I performed electronics repairs professionally, mostly in home audio, since 1971. PM me for contact information.

Why not just include a schematic?

Since everything is powered from 5 Volts, why not use one power supply?

I built a 555-based capacitor tester in the 80s from a TAB Books or H.W.Sams publication schematic. I also built several more projects from that book including a DTMF generator for telephone dial tones, a telephone warble ringer, several sirens, and a windshield wiper delay for my 62 Fairlane.

This design has been used for different size drivers for many decades. It is basically a folded horn.

Great and simple project, but I would call it an RFI sniffer. The antenna will pick up all sorts of EM interference and noise.

It won't unless that live wire is radiating EM waves.

12 Ga. solid Copper seems to work far better on my Weller 140W.

On these heat blaster guns, they use low voltage high current to heat the tip. Every time you use the gun, you should loosen and retighten both clamp nuts.

Please be careful whatever type of knife you use and I would recommend a dedicated tool for the task. I made an otherwise unnecessary trip to Emergency using my Leatherman knife to strip insulation. The Big Box stores sell a round wire insulation ripper/stripper with multiple functions for $6 or less. Fingers are valuable!

I suggest using a 12V automotive lamp across the batteries when originally voltage matching them. This will provide a minimum load which your digital meter won't offer @1 Megohm per volt.

In case anyone is interested, allow 163.8 Cubic Centimeters for 25 batteries for different battery counts - 11.7 * 11.7 * 7 cm (4.5 * 4.5 * 2 3/4 in).

BMS modules are used because they can balance each individual row of batteries.Your final output voltage will be 3 x 3.7 = 11.1. I suggest a series of 4.

50AH does not address the question. For a car battery, you need at least several HUNDRED Amps. That's why you buy a battery with, say, 550 CCA. If one series of 18650 batteries can deliver 10A, you need 55 parallel groups.

You have combined a couple of my loves in this project. First, the planter for container gardening and then the Arduino as icing for the cake.Great work. One question: did you put some kind of coating on the metal?

That is true and I will be lining mine with two layers of 4 mil, but that probably won't work well outside. The box could fill with water.I logged onto instructables specifically to see how others have treated the irrigation issue.So far, I'm planning a layer of pea gravel with a perforated PVC tube, but I still haven't decided on a method for regulating it and removing the excess.

Very nice work. Beautiful finished project.I'm glad you point out safety tips, but you weren't practicing safety when you were wearing the gray shirt. Hair down, necklace hanging out, and bracelets.

I would never use Aluminum. It can cause mental deficiencies.

I imagined if you run your cool water in from the bottom, the heated water will rise naturally and take any remaining heat it can absorb from the hottest top parts of the coil last. A fitting made for mounting on round plastic could be attached to the bottom of the bucket (you could make your own) and place another to drain off the hot water at the top.

Personally, I see no reason for not using 1/2". You will need more of it to equal the same amount of heat transfer skin (at least twice and probably closer to 3x as much). Nice thing about 1/2" copper is that it's easier to bend into smaller coils. You could have 3 or 4 coils in the same cooler.

Would you please show us how you did it? This is Instructables, after all. Steps, pictures, wiring diagrams, list of parts.

Love the project. I have purchased one Pi3B+, and I have a 4G 4B purchase planned for imminent future. One suggestion: use something non-reflective such as a towel for your backdrop. The picture with the wires and switch is confusing.

So, you are D10D3. Are you bi-polar? :D Love the project, man! Thank you for the work you've done here.

If you need more information regarding the incredible Raspberry Pi, look here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raspberry_Pi

12 Volts DC is 12 Volts DC. It makes no difference if it comes from a battery, a solar panel, or a power supply.Your choice of 12 V supply is strictly up to you. What works best in your application?

The usual OS for Raspberry Pi is a version of Debian called Raspbian. It is a Linux OS for ARM processors (the CPU). It is absolutely free and has far more free software available than you ever dreamed of with Winduhs or Mac.

Great 'ible. Novel usage of media. We all know stone is great for heat absorption and even better if it is dark gray or black. Please relate the CUBIC meters of the room. There is a vast difference between the amount of heat required for a 12 foot ceiling as opposed to an 8 or 9 foot ceiling.

I don't believe you will have any problem with water shorting because you're only using 5V, however it might just tingle your foot soles if you have standing water in the boot or sock. It would be similar to but less than the effect you get from sticking a 9V battery to your tongue.

Great! I have been trying to come up with something like this for decades, but I just never got to it until now.Thank you very much from me and my cold feet.

All good, but it is a mistake to exclude a DPDT switch or its electronic equivalent to isolate different sources from one another. Probably a good thing to load the input circuit with about 1K Ohm/channel, too.I made this same type of modification to several 2000 series Delcos in the 80s. Connected to a pair of home speakers, it was truly amazing the quality I got from them.

Try retaking the photos. They are out of focus. Some schematics are unreadable.

I think someone has hacked your page. Links are broken.

The first 5 links are broken/hacked.

Awesome idea for re-purposed bricks!

Broken Link: keypress.mp4

Link is broken.www.atmel.com/images/doc0856.pdf

Man, I cannot believe my good fortune to have found your tutorials.You rock as strong as Gibraltar!Thank you! ! !

Hey, Randy, kudos to you for including instruction on how to safely remove an IC from its socket.I have a 1/8" screwdriver, the last 1/2" of which was heated with a torch and bent at a right angle. It works fantastic for extracting these DIP IC's.

You probably need to select Common and Yellow, but you probably already know this by now.

I also considered using condensate water. Only two extra things needed would be redirection and (possibly) a small pump to generate enough pressure to mist.Alternative to the pump could be some absorbent wicking thing similar to the type used in furnace humidifiers.

It's a great idea of which I learned decades ago.These misters will always save a lot of money depending on how much water can be evaporated before air saturation occurs.

You said 'Soldering Gun' and 'lead'. Most people with a soldering GUN will burn up ICs and other semiconductors. I recommend a soldering PENCIL or iron with power rating between 35 and 65 Watts.'Lead' is not a part of this project, however solder is.

For desoldering you need two things: heat and vacuum or wick.For nearly all of my desoldering, I use a small hand-held, anti-static vacuum pump and an iron rated at least 40 Watts. For very large connections, you will need more heat/higher wattage. I count the seconds of heat to stay under 6 seconds (one thousand one, one thousand two, etc.). More than 6 seconds, you will probably ruin the board. Heat until the solder flows in the joint. Quickly substitute the vacuum for the heat. You may need to do this more than once on a couple of joints. Best way is to resolder and then desolder. Sometimes I use needle-nose pliers to rotate/wiggle the end of the wire slightly in the hole to completely break it free. With proper unsoldering technique, the component can be very easily removed without de…

For desoldering you need two things: heat and vacuum or wick.For nearly all of my desoldering, I use a small hand-held, anti-static vacuum pump and an iron rated at least 40 Watts. For very large connections, you will need more heat/higher wattage. I count the seconds of heat to stay under 6 seconds (one thousand one, one thousand two, etc.). More than 6 seconds, you will probably ruin the board. Heat until the solder flows in the joint. Quickly substitute the vacuum for the heat. You may need to do this more than once on a couple of joints. Best way is to resolder and then desolder. Sometimes I use needle-nose pliers to rotate/wiggle the end of the wire slightly in the hole to completely break it free. With proper unsoldering technique, the component can be very easily removed without destroying the board or the semiconductor in question.Practice at least a half hour on something old/ inexpensive before tackling something important/easily ruined.

DO NOT BUY Radio Shack solder. You will just be wasting your time. The flux is not even inside the spool so some joints and circuit boards will be ruined before the solder wicks into the joint.

Good job; good instructable.Regarding X-Box failures:Solder joints never just break. There always is an external reason.Solder joint failures are caused by:1. Cold-solder joints (caused by too little heat on the joint OR by moving/flexing the joint before the solder has solidified).2. Excessive heat and/or flexing of the joint after the original assembly.#2 is by far the most common. Cheap companies don't use enough heat sink to remove the excessive heat from power transistors and semiconductors because they want the circuits to fail after warranty so you will buy another improperly engineered piece of garbage from them. Every 10 degrees Celsius/Centigrade increase in semiconductor junction temperature results in the loss of 50% of the semiconductor's life. That means a mere 20 degrees of…

Good job; good instructable.Regarding X-Box failures:Solder joints never just break. There always is an external reason.Solder joint failures are caused by:1. Cold-solder joints (caused by too little heat on the joint OR by moving/flexing the joint before the solder has solidified).2. Excessive heat and/or flexing of the joint after the original assembly.#2 is by far the most common. Cheap companies don't use enough heat sink to remove the excessive heat from power transistors and semiconductors because they want the circuits to fail after warranty so you will buy another improperly engineered piece of garbage from them. Every 10 degrees Celsius/Centigrade increase in semiconductor junction temperature results in the loss of 50% of the semiconductor's life. That means a mere 20 degrees of rise loses 3/4 of the semiconductor's life. It is this same excessive heat which renders the solder joints to cold-solder joints.Well-designed/well-engineered products will operate 24/7/365.25 for at least the next ten years. Poor designs do well to actually operate until the time you get them home. It's no wonder they all fail within the first 5 years!

MAPP gas is not true MAPP gas any longer. It is an adulterated mixture that will only attain a maximum of about 5% more heat than propane.

Great job, ShadowRoch. Always good to see young people taking interest in such things. This is the same way I learned.I really annoyed a few of the men in my neighborhood when I was young because I was always in their way observing and asking millions of questions. Most of them tolerated me and some even took the time to teach me properly.By the time I was 12 years old, I knew how to sweat-solder copper lines, drive crooked nails, and cut a straight line with a handsaw. To those men, thank you and God bless you.I would add:Torch tips have different heat ratings. You need one which can deliver enough heat to properly melt solder while overcoming copper's awesome ability to sink all of your heat away from the joint. 3/4" pipe takes about three times as much heat per joint as 1/2".…

Great job, ShadowRoch. Always good to see young people taking interest in such things. This is the same way I learned.I really annoyed a few of the men in my neighborhood when I was young because I was always in their way observing and asking millions of questions. Most of them tolerated me and some even took the time to teach me properly.By the time I was 12 years old, I knew how to sweat-solder copper lines, drive crooked nails, and cut a straight line with a handsaw. To those men, thank you and God bless you.I would add:Torch tips have different heat ratings. You need one which can deliver enough heat to properly melt solder while overcoming copper's awesome ability to sink all of your heat away from the joint. 3/4" pipe takes about three times as much heat per joint as 1/2".Different solder paste/flux has different characteristics. Use the proper one for the job.Flux has only one job: to burn the remaining impurities off the surface of the copper which were not sanded off. Once the impurities are burned away you will always make a good joint, but solder will never stick to unclean copper! If you think you have enough flux, you probably need more. Always clean and coat the first 1 1/2" of the pipe with flux paste.If you are doing everything correctly, you will see your solder flow into the joint by wicking action. Immediately remove the heat and hold the joint stationary for about 15 seconds so the solder can properly cool without making a cold-solder joint. Cold-solder joints will begin to leak tomorrow or next week. (Murphy's Law)It takes about 10 times as long to redo a joint you messed up the first time. I am the voice of experience.

*sepArate* What's the point of having a spell-checker if you don't use it?

Cool! (Both ways!) Thank you for the recipe.

I have also used this same remedy.Another method I use is to take about 1 inch of sod from the edges of driveways or sidewalks. Presto! Two birds; one stone.

Awesome mod!Yeah, the spark generated by lawn mower magnetos is usually around 10,000 volts or better. It can jump a one inch gap.

Video is still broken.

Great idea for larger tires, but 3 inch to 5 inch tires usually don't cost that much. Besides, extra rubber meeting any surface means extra friction as rolling resistance. There is already far too much rolling resistance in small tires.

Great ideas.One caution: Step 4 - steel wool will remove the surface from linoleum in one swipe. Only rub the very narrow mark because whatever area you rub with steel wool will lose it's shine and will then be very noticeable in the light.

Wonderful job. Love the additions. I noticed the LED does not shine on the tip of the bit, however. From my observations, it looks as if you just need to trim away a tiny bit of housing...Thanks especially for the note about whacking the batteries.

DIYers do things for the joy of building and the educational perspective. What price do you attach to your education? Just go directly to Amazon or someplace if you aren't interested in building anything and leave DIY to DIYers.

Great 'able.I would offer one word of caution about connecting batteries in parallel. It usually doesn't work out well.

Excellent work! Great 'able! Bravo!I would have used some other less confusing technique for connections. For example: co-axial power connector. Male on one end/female on the other.