LynxSys

Great build! I love the idea of using bondo and rubber to create a molded grip surface to conform to the tool.You commented that the gap between your sander and the jig's table (or "bed") is too wide in some spots. I did a similar build (https://www.instructables.com/id/An-edge-sanding-table-for-your-belt-sander/) and I made the cutout for the sander slightly too small and then let the sander itself finish the shape, which got me a perfect fit.

Nice work! I saw the same set of instructions on Rockler, but I decided to tilt the sander instead of the table:https://www.instructables.com/id/An-edge-sanding-table-for-your-belt-sander/I really like your tilt adjustment. That's a really neat idea. The next jig I build needs that feature...

I advise against using acetone. It will damage any plastic components it touches if you don't rinse it off, which adds a bunch of steps. A single step using isopropyl alcohol works just fine, especially if you can get the less dilute stuff.

Can you be more specific about what's not working? Am I correct that you're using wires from the +12V2 connector, but they're not giving you any power at all? Are you getting power on other connectors? Is the PSU plugged in and switched on? Is the green "PSU on" wire attached to a ground wire? Is the PSU's fan spinning?Also, a side note: laptops are easy to fry and hard to fix. If the laptop is valuable to you and you're at all unsure about what you're doing, consider buying a laptop adapter instead of jury-rigging a PSU.

You could. You would build the schematic as shown except for the part with the switch and 12V source in the cab.You would then power it from a consistent 12V source near the rear bumper (if you can find one) instead of running a wire to the cab. Finally, you would install a remote momentary switch between the device and the power source and install the remote control in the cab.Really, though, it seems like that would be a less reliable solution that might require batteries and could look pretty unprofessional, all in the name of avoiding running one wire from front to back. I would strongly suggest just running the wire. Getting behind a few interior panels to run a wire isn't too tough in a car (tip: follow the wires from the taillights and see how they get back to the front), but if ...

You could. You would build the schematic as shown except for the part with the switch and 12V source in the cab.You would then power it from a consistent 12V source near the rear bumper (if you can find one) instead of running a wire to the cab. Finally, you would install a remote momentary switch between the device and the power source and install the remote control in the cab.Really, though, it seems like that would be a less reliable solution that might require batteries and could look pretty unprofessional, all in the name of avoiding running one wire from front to back. I would strongly suggest just running the wire. Getting behind a few interior panels to run a wire isn't too tough in a car (tip: follow the wires from the taillights and see how they get back to the front), but if you really don't want to deal with it, you can always run the wire under the vehicle. Just be sure to attach it somewhere that will keep it away from road debris.

It looks like you painted the chain and the chain ring. Did you use Rustoleum for that, too? If so, how well is that holding up, and have you found that the paint gums up the chain at all?I really appreciate your emphasis on respirators and good ventilation. Given that your Instructable might be used to teach kids, I hope you won't mind me making a few suggestions about safety equipment that might be worth adding to your write-up:1. Always wear a correctly fitted particulate respirator when sanding (not just a "dust mask" but an N-95 disposable respirator or better), especially when power sanding.2. Always wear eye protection when power sanding, and especially if using a wire brush or wire wheel.3. Always make sure that a respirator worn for painting is the correct respirator ...

It looks like you painted the chain and the chain ring. Did you use Rustoleum for that, too? If so, how well is that holding up, and have you found that the paint gums up the chain at all?I really appreciate your emphasis on respirators and good ventilation. Given that your Instructable might be used to teach kids, I hope you won't mind me making a few suggestions about safety equipment that might be worth adding to your write-up:1. Always wear a correctly fitted particulate respirator when sanding (not just a "dust mask" but an N-95 disposable respirator or better), especially when power sanding.2. Always wear eye protection when power sanding, and especially if using a wire brush or wire wheel.3. Always make sure that a respirator worn for painting is the correct respirator for the chemicals in the paint. A particulate respirator might stop paint droplets when you start painting, but it may be broken down by the solvents in some paints, rendering it ineffective. A particulate respirator also won't stop certain harmful paint fumes at all.Thanks for a great Instructable that encourages people to do all sorts of great things, like teach kids, rehabilitate old bikes, and give charitably. You're doing great (and very aesthetically pleasing) work!

It's hard to answer that without knowing more about your setup. Could you explain a bit more about your configuration or post some pictures?

This is one of those puzzles that's completely mystifying until you see how it was made, after which you think to yourself, "I should have figured that out!" followed by "...but yet, I didn't..." I've hidden plenty of glue joints myself, but yours still fooled me. Thanks for sharing such a fun project!

I will answer your questions below, but I want to start with a warning: DO NOT try to charge an 18650 or any lithium-ion battery using a homemade charger. Charging a lithium-ion battery requires specific voltages and a charger capable of monitoring and supervising the charging process. If you incorrectly charge a lithium-ion battery (including overcharging a cell, trying to charge an over-discharged cell, or supplying the wrong voltage to a cell), it will likely catch fire, explode, or both. I hate to discourage anyone from working on a project that they think is interesting, but charging lithium-ion batteries is dangerous, and building a charger for them should be considered an advanced electronics project. I would suggest that you buy a well-reviewed, commercially-available charger fo...

I will answer your questions below, but I want to start with a warning: DO NOT try to charge an 18650 or any lithium-ion battery using a homemade charger. Charging a lithium-ion battery requires specific voltages and a charger capable of monitoring and supervising the charging process. If you incorrectly charge a lithium-ion battery (including overcharging a cell, trying to charge an over-discharged cell, or supplying the wrong voltage to a cell), it will likely catch fire, explode, or both. I hate to discourage anyone from working on a project that they think is interesting, but charging lithium-ion batteries is dangerous, and building a charger for them should be considered an advanced electronics project. I would suggest that you buy a well-reviewed, commercially-available charger for your 18650's. Also, I would suggest that you only use protected 18650's (meaning that the batteries have a small circuit board in them that prevents them from being over-discharged), especially if you are using the batteries to power DIY projects. Over-discharging a lithium-ion battery can be nearly as dangerous as improperly charging one. Finally, to answer your original questions: you can add as many binding posts as you want to any of the rails, but remember that those posts as a group will only ever provide a total amperage up to the rated amperage of that rail. If the color-standardization of your wires is normal, then the brown wire is a sense wire for the 3.3V rail and you should attach it to that rail. If you're unsure, then check if the wire is supplying any voltage (a sense wire shouldn't be) and confirm that it is in the same position as the sense wire in the ATX connector by using the wiring charts in "Step 3".

See my reply to your other comment.

That is an excellent suggestion. I will add it to the Instructable for future readers. Thanks!