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  • Lynxear followed energy, pest-control, photography and sandwiches channel 3 months ago
  • Lynxear commented on MixmasterFred's instructable A Walking Cane With a Twist3 months ago
    A Walking Cane With a Twist

    I like your use of the "copper joint" for the cane to handle connection. I have used copper connections before in making canes but not reduction joints. This will strengthen the cane handle at the joint.

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  • Lynxear commented on mmh's instructable How to Make a Custom Fancy Walking Cane3 months ago
    How to Make a Custom Fancy Walking Cane

    It was a nice instructable but it was more difficult thatn it had to be.1. Most of your application involved taking a flat board of material, and cutting a 1.5" x 1.5" x 3' length and then making it into a dowel shape.... Why not simply purchase a 3' dowel in the fiirst place.2. the handle was nice and the addition of the collar is a nice effect but I would have used an industrial epoxy glue to cement the connecting dowel and the cane, collar and handle. That handle would never come apart. If the wood is properly cured/dried there will not be a shrinkage or expansion problem especially if you properly varnish the cane as I describe below. If you are adding the smaller dowels for more artistic effect fine but it is not needed to prevent the cane from coming loose..3. Nowadays u...

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    It was a nice instructable but it was more difficult thatn it had to be.1. Most of your application involved taking a flat board of material, and cutting a 1.5" x 1.5" x 3' length and then making it into a dowel shape.... Why not simply purchase a 3' dowel in the fiirst place.2. the handle was nice and the addition of the collar is a nice effect but I would have used an industrial epoxy glue to cement the connecting dowel and the cane, collar and handle. That handle would never come apart. If the wood is properly cured/dried there will not be a shrinkage or expansion problem especially if you properly varnish the cane as I describe below. If you are adding the smaller dowels for more artistic effect fine but it is not needed to prevent the cane from coming loose..3. Nowadays using an oil polyurethane varnish is not recommended. First it is hard to find as it has been replaced by a water based polyurethane varnish. You give several cautions in using an oil based product except an important one:...do the varnishing in a well ventilated area. The fumes are toxic.A water based varnish (non-glossy) can be found with anti-scratch/anti-UV/anti-moisture properties. There are NO toxic fumes and drys in 30 minutes... ready for a second coat. I have found that 2 coats are all that is needed for complete protection....any more coats makes the cane look like plastic which is not a good look.

    Dowels are not aesthetic, I agree but essentially that is what you made and used a spoke shave to taper it. But you are correct the limits of what you can get in dowel form are there.I disagree totally with regards to using epoxy for cane assembly. I use a two component epoxy on my canes and my oldest cane is over 12 years old and is still as tight as every.The trick is to use seasoned wood and at the end of the process use a quality varnish that has anti-UV/scratch/moisture qualities. Once the cane is encapsulated in the varnish there is no drying out or enlarging the joint due to moisture. Besides if you use industrial grade quality adhesive you increase your confidence ... otherwise many buildings using such adhesives would be falling apart.I have even used automotive body putty on a...

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    Dowels are not aesthetic, I agree but essentially that is what you made and used a spoke shave to taper it. But you are correct the limits of what you can get in dowel form are there.I disagree totally with regards to using epoxy for cane assembly. I use a two component epoxy on my canes and my oldest cane is over 12 years old and is still as tight as every.The trick is to use seasoned wood and at the end of the process use a quality varnish that has anti-UV/scratch/moisture qualities. Once the cane is encapsulated in the varnish there is no drying out or enlarging the joint due to moisture. Besides if you use industrial grade quality adhesive you increase your confidence ... otherwise many buildings using such adhesives would be falling apart.I have even used automotive body putty on a few canes when I have a cavity to fill. I used a part of a brass candle stick to be the base of Snooker 8-ball. I drilled 2 holes in the ball and epoxied 2 screws into the ball (to prevent rotation of the ball if twisted) then I put the body putty into the candlestick well and pushed the ball onto the top forcing the screws into the putty... the result one year later is still as solid as the day it was formed. If you think about it automobile putty sticks to a flat metal surface throughout water and vibration exposure if applied properly.My wood of choice is diamond willow and I only choose my sticks from dead trees. I test the stick for faults if any and cracks in the stick add to the character of the piece in my opinion. I have been making sticks for over 12 years and never have had one come back as being defective.Here is a picture of the "8-ball" cane for an example of my work. Also a picture of a wall in my apartment with some of the canes I have kept. In the lower right you will see an interesting stick that I have stared at for over a year, It is a diamond willow stick with the handle being a root. Then I saw a picture of the snake shown above it. I have a method of reconstructing the root into that snake's head and the whole stick will be a snake staff. Should be fun to do and I intend eventually to construct an instructable in the near future but have no time at present.I am not entirely negative on your post...I like your decorative collar and handmade handle....you have given me ideas on how to use that collar in future canes.regards

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  • Lynxear commented on Moonlight Maker's instructable Glowing Steampunk Flash Drive10 months ago
    Glowing Steampunk Flash Drive

    Wow... I am looking to make a steampunk swagger stick. This would make a great handle that I could turn off/on at will... perhaps in different colors.Such a cool idea!

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  • Lynxear commented on riboleon 's instructable Date Night Meal on a College Budget 1 year ago
    Date Night Meal on a College Budget

    First of all, I think that is a great meal and very well described in your instructable. However as a date-night meal I think it is too much. If she ate all of this meal she would easily slip into a food coma. Instead of a 16 ounce steak I would choose a 6-8 oz steak and then build the meal proportionally around that... But again it sounds great for this 200+lb male and I would certainly like to try this meal

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  • Lynxear commented on phirzcol's instructable Steampunk Keyboard1 year ago
    Steampunk Keyboard

    Instead of cutting individual metal hoops for the keys I would go to a hardware store and buy suitable sized "brass ferrules" They will be beveled and a bright colour with no ragged edges to sand.I would love to adapt this to a laptop as well and add a steam generator for power with gauges and interesting tubing...would be so cool eh.

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  • Lynxear commented on misha.bagrianski's instructable Arduino-controlled Water Rockets1 year ago
    Arduino-controlled Water Rockets

    On your launch device I would give it a tilt. The reason is several fold. 1. If it is 100% vertical you will not know what direction this rocket will go. It could go in any direction . 2. You don't state your goal in the launch.If you are looking for maximum altitude then it should be close to vertical (but with a slight tilt to give it direction)If you want horizontal distance then a 45 degree angle would probably be the best.Just a thought

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  • Lynxear followed birding, woodworking, robots, magic-tricks and 13 others channel 1 year ago
  • Lynxear commented on SimonRob's instructable Electronic Space Shuttle1 year ago
    Electronic Space Shuttle

    Perhaps to show it re-entering the atmosphere...heat shield warming up. Actually the heat shield would extend down the body underside. Perhaps you could find some light diffusing clear plastic which can be lit up by one or more red LED's to show the shield at work, you could etch the plastic to show the tiles... just a thought

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  • Lynxear commented on umami_tsunami's instructable Motion Blur Photography1 year ago
    Motion Blur Photography

    Panning a shot takes practice at high speeds. This is a shot I took at a go-kart race. I was 50 feet from the edge of the track, the cart was traveling about 120km/hr and I got this picture. First you adjust your lens (I use a Pentax ist DL SLR with a 75-300 telephoto lens) by framing the shot and setting the exposure so that when the kart is where you want it you only have to concentrate on the clicking the shutter. As the kart approaches press the shutter in a series of half pulses to update the focus and when you are ready press the shutter completely...BUT you continue the smooth motion of the camera even after the shot.

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  • Lynxear commented on EurekaFactory's instructable Butterfly Photography1 year ago
    Butterfly Photography

    I am a butterfly photographer as well. The thing I like is that each month from early Spring to early Fall has different species of butterfly species. I find the best time of day to photograph butterflies is in the early morning... the butterflies are more docile then and if their wings are damp they are hiding as their wings dry out.

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  • Lynxear commented on graydog111's instructable Low Cost Walking Stick1 year ago
    Low Cost Walking Stick

    I have been looking for brass hardware for cane handles for a long time. I never thought of using a brass candlestick holder before and they are pretty cheap in thrift stores... thank you for that idea.I wonder how you drilled the hole in the 8 ball. I made a cane for my snooker playing brother but instead of using a real 8 ball I used an 8 ball stick shift knob... It looked pretty good and was easy to mount but he did not like it since it was not a real 8 ball. I would like to know how you drilled a real 8 ball.

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