MagicTK

Sorry I'm slow to reply. The NTE equivalent shouldn't matter, but which part number exactly are you using? Do you have any pictures of your schematic or your actual wiring? I'd be happy to try to trace down each wire, but I'd need good enough pics to help support this activity. With IC's you need to be sure you have each pin exactly correct. Sometimes the makers will swap pins and if you have it not 100% correct, you will have very limited adjust or usability. Also, please check that you don't have any stray wires or solder balls making contact where they shouldn't be.

You're on the right track. This is similar to the one I have listed above, except it measures 2.5v - 30v, which is sufficient for most applications like this little power supply. The ones I have actually measure up to 100v DC, but you will be perfectly OK with this one below.And yes, you could use a mini ATX power source as the input to the voltage regulator, in place of the two 9v batteries in series like I show. You will just be limited to the max voltage the ATX power source output is. Most are 5v and 12v. Sometimes have 24v output. I would recommend the 12v or 24v, but you can use any voltage up to the max input voltage of the regulator IC that you choose. If you are going to run a lot of current through it, I would recommend using a heatsink on the regulator. You could even ...

You're on the right track. This is similar to the one I have listed above, except it measures 2.5v - 30v, which is sufficient for most applications like this little power supply. The ones I have actually measure up to 100v DC, but you will be perfectly OK with this one below.And yes, you could use a mini ATX power source as the input to the voltage regulator, in place of the two 9v batteries in series like I show. You will just be limited to the max voltage the ATX power source output is. Most are 5v and 12v. Sometimes have 24v output. I would recommend the 12v or 24v, but you can use any voltage up to the max input voltage of the regulator IC that you choose. If you are going to run a lot of current through it, I would recommend using a heatsink on the regulator. You could even screw it to the ATX case. The advantage of this circuit is the fine-tuning you get with a 10-turn potentiometer. Attach pics whenever you build yours.http://www.dx.com/p/mini-led-dc-2-5-30v-volt-volta...

No worries. It's good to get questions like this because sometimes other people have the same question. Do you have a link to this volt meter? I can tell more by the description and specs.The one I posted in the link above requires 4.5v to 28v DC input, then it can measure 0v to 99v DC.Power specifications:4.5V to 28V DC power0V to 99.9V DC measurement

http://www.reuk.co.uk/LM317-Voltage-Calculator.htmThere are many calculators out there to help determine the fixed values (if you wanted to used fixed rather than potentiometer), however, this link has a nice table that shows various ranges. I have not had any issues with using the 20K and 1000ohm as noted. If you were to use a 10k, I think you would be OK with 500ohm. Try out the calculator and figure out what voltage range you will be working with, that might help determine what values make most sense. Also, it's a simple formula, try doing a few manual calculations just for fun.

I actually ended up swapping the switch with another one from my other Intellimouse Optical that wasn't working for a different reason.

I actually ended up swapping the switch with another one from my other Intellimouse Optical that wasn't working for a different reason.

Here are two very close up pictures I had from my Intellimouse Optical USB. They are very similar to the ones all of you have shown. Hope this helps someone to see it close up.