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Another great yet simple idea ! You are a true inventor. Really.My kids are allways complaining the toast is to hot. I'll put this instructable under their nose as a hint. Nobody will burn his/her fingers on a toast again in this house! :D Thanks for a great idea!
Actually the tilde ~ under the 6 and 9 aren't even needed.Hearts, spades and clover are easily recognisable because they have a distinct bottomside.Only diamonds need some attention while putting the stickers on the cards because the diamond is the same shape upside down as upright.And if you really do want to know the difference, it's enough to just put a dot behind the number like '6.' and '9.' which is less intrusive.Anyway, again this is a nice idea for playing cards. It is somewhat special.
This is crazy cool !Did you go to patent this 'card' design? You should.A very original design. At last little children will be able to hold a hand of playing 'cards'.
Nice little helper you made.Since I have the same car as you do, I suppose that could work for me too. ;)
I've always been a bleeder too. Even if I sat down a litlle to rough, Blood came pooring out of my nose.Another good method is to use common shampoo.Just like any other method, this works better on fresh blood then on dry blood, but you can remove dried blood with shampoo too with good results.Anyone normally has shampoo at home, so this is an even easier method.And most important, with normal shampoo, it does not bleach or stain the fabric.
The pocket holes aren't plugged. The board is at the middle of the bench's depth for strength.The pocket holes are in the backside of the board. The back of the bench is then closed up with some other (thinner) board.That way the pocket holes are hidden from view.
It all depends on the project, but in this case...You don't really need a CNC machine, nor do you have to turn your own knob.You can buy/make a small plastic or a wooden box to place the circuit in along with the knob which you can also buy.The CNC machine just makes the top of the box a bit fancier.If you want and are able to do this, go ahead, but if you just want the functionality go for a simple container and/or knob.I like this instructable, but I would have to choose a simple box since I do not have access to a CNC machine. If I really wanted to, I could do this wavey pattern with simple tools, but it would take longer than a CNC machine and it wouldn't be as tight. That's just the way it is... Doesn't mean I can't build this project though.
Nice work.Works like a charm and most important, your own make, and that's what counts.Sure, there are other possibilities like a tablet, but you tackled this very good.It's a pitty the keyboard doesn't slide out and in together with the sliding pannels that go down and up. That would give it that little extra.Can be done with a couple of guides, maybe a tilting slat and the drawer being connected to the pulley system so that it changes from vertical stand to more or less horizontal while sliding outward and back. Keyboard held in place with some velcro, so it doesn't drop off the drawer.The postioning of the drawer has to be precise so it doesn't collide with the pannel.How's that for a challenge? ;-)
This definitively is a great idea for storing those 'allways falling over' long handled garden tools.Great job!
Nice work.Now show us a picture of your arms. They must be about as thick as my legs from lifting that wheelbarrow up there. ;-)
In all its simplicity, this is genius.
Nice work!I would have added a sloped back to the dustcabin.That plus a slope on the sides would allow to put a dustbag underneath to collect most of the dust. = less work cleaning out the dust :)
You could also use long legs with multiple holes in them so you can reposition the screws for shorter or longer lengths of the legs. That way you only need one set of clamp legs which can't get misplaced not to be found when you need them. Yes, it happens... when kids use dad's equipment.
A big disadvantage of my solution is that the cover will become rather thick...
Maybe I'm taking this too far and maybe there are easier or more ingenious ways, but...What you want can be done, but it would require a completely different aproach to the locking system. You would have to use a system with magnets, iron or steel pins, some sort of strings, springs and steel or wooden pins and a batten to create the lock instead of the mag-locks.You'd have to divide one diagonal (all in the same direction of course) of the puzzle blocks into 15 pieces which makes for a very small area so as to have each puzzle piece have a different activating location. This has to be because you want every piece to be in the correct place.The positioning of these activation locations has to be very precise for it to work.Quite challenging I would say.What it boils down to is that when...
Maybe I'm taking this too far and maybe there are easier or more ingenious ways, but...What you want can be done, but it would require a completely different aproach to the locking system. You would have to use a system with magnets, iron or steel pins, some sort of strings, springs and steel or wooden pins and a batten to create the lock instead of the mag-locks.You'd have to divide one diagonal (all in the same direction of course) of the puzzle blocks into 15 pieces which makes for a very small area so as to have each puzzle piece have a different activating location. This has to be because you want every piece to be in the correct place.The positioning of these activation locations has to be very precise for it to work.Quite challenging I would say.What it boils down to is that when a puzzle piece is in the right position, a magnet pulls up a steel or iron pin in the bottom of the puzzle. The pin is attached to a string which pulls a steel or wooden pin from under a batten on the front side of the top compartment. This pin is pushed back under the batten by the spring if the puzzle piece is moved to another position because the magnet isn't pulling the pin-string-pin system anymore. So with fifteen of these individual pin-string-pin locks, you should be able to pull this off.The pin that goes under the batten should be square and have the bottom side beveled so that when the cover is opened and the puzzle pieces are moved, the pins still can pass the batten to locking position without blocking the closure of the secret compartment.
This is a cool looking keyboard.Looks a bit like a Flintstones design, except it isn't rock but wood.My compliments.