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  • Rubik's Cube Birdhouse

    Nice work.I guess I would switch colors on a couple of the squares, just to tick off ppl with aspiring OCD ;o)And apologies to all that may suffer from OCD. It's just meant as a friendly joke...

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  • How to Heat Treat a Knife [simplest Method Possible]

    First of all, thanxx for taking my comments as positive criticism, not many people seems to be able to do that ;o)I've been toying with blacksmithing for more than 10 years, my interest is mainly what a blacksmith in a small'ish community would be doing before industriliazation began. From time to time I volunteer at a Medieval museum centre.I don't really like bladesmithing, I'm more into tools and all the stuff that made life easier, and yet I've made 100's if not 1000's of knives over the years.The first few times, I was using used motor oil simply because I didn't know better.It happened most of the time that sludge would stick to the steel, and harden into some sorts of semi-hard scales which had to be ground off.The steel will harden, but if you do some testing, you'll find that ...

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    First of all, thanxx for taking my comments as positive criticism, not many people seems to be able to do that ;o)I've been toying with blacksmithing for more than 10 years, my interest is mainly what a blacksmith in a small'ish community would be doing before industriliazation began. From time to time I volunteer at a Medieval museum centre.I don't really like bladesmithing, I'm more into tools and all the stuff that made life easier, and yet I've made 100's if not 1000's of knives over the years.The first few times, I was using used motor oil simply because I didn't know better.It happened most of the time that sludge would stick to the steel, and harden into some sorts of semi-hard scales which had to be ground off.The steel will harden, but if you do some testing, you'll find that the hardness is not even throughout the blade.It does make sense in the way that motor oil is designed to do a very different job than proper quenching oil. I sometimes ask newbee blacksmiths if they would use quenching oil or veggie oil in their cars or bikes, and when they roll their eyes and tells me that would be a stupid idea, I'll ask them why they think that it would work the other way round...There are a few websites left, dedicated to blacksmithing, and there are some very good groups on FB, and from time to time, the discussion pops up when some one is claiming that motor oil is OK for quenching. There are chemists that will explain in great detail why it's not a good idea, and there'll be a lot of guys telling about their own experiences. Obviously there'll be a lot of guys claiming that they've used it for a long time, and that it's OK. But apart from the health issues (which are quite serious), it's just not a good idea.I don't have any links handy, but I've seen some research that suggests that Canola oil is almost frightenly close to Parks 50 parameters, and that's why it's recommended for the backyard blacksmiths.I'm using Canola oil, or water for certain alloys, even on stuff I'm selling.There'll be a lot of guys that will tell you that I'm dead wrong, but do your own research.... Don't just think that my, or somebody elses words are gospel...Talking quenching oil amongst blacksmiths is almost like asking bikers what lube oil would be the best.... It's religion to some people ;o)

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  • How to Heat Treat a Knife [simplest Method Possible]

    Not a bad 'ible...You're right on most of what you say, and for a beginner this is a great place to start.However, used motor oil?Personally, I think there are enough people in this world suffering from cancer and all kinds of lung diseases, so please forget everything about motor oil, used or new!The smoke from motor oil is quite hazardous, and you don't want to be anyway near it...And another reason not to use motor oil is the fact that it's not designed for this. Especially used motor oil contains all kinds of stuff that gives you an unknown flashpoint(fire hazard), and all the crud in the oil can and will fasten to the steel, and give an uneven temperature change, which in turn will give you an unknown but surely poor hardening.Canola oil is in many way very near to Parks 50 when it...

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    Not a bad 'ible...You're right on most of what you say, and for a beginner this is a great place to start.However, used motor oil?Personally, I think there are enough people in this world suffering from cancer and all kinds of lung diseases, so please forget everything about motor oil, used or new!The smoke from motor oil is quite hazardous, and you don't want to be anyway near it...And another reason not to use motor oil is the fact that it's not designed for this. Especially used motor oil contains all kinds of stuff that gives you an unknown flashpoint(fire hazard), and all the crud in the oil can and will fasten to the steel, and give an uneven temperature change, which in turn will give you an unknown but surely poor hardening.Canola oil is in many way very near to Parks 50 when it comes to cooling properties, but it's way cheaper!On a side note, the RR spike knife is not the best example to use, as even RR spikes stamped "HC" are not hi-carbon when compared to proper carbon-steel.RR spikes are great for practise, but they don't hold an edge if the knife is used for anything but butter ;o)Please take this as positive ctriticism to a pretty good 'ible.And stay safe ;o)

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  • Midgaardssmeden commented on Huntsman1812's instructable Rail Spike Knife1 year ago
    Rail Spike Knife

    Why on earth would you cool a RR spike in oil?The carbon content is so low that the spike will never harden, it's practically mild steel. Even RR spikes marked "HC" are mild steel.On a side note, only use motor oil if you really, really want to get cancer!There's no end to all the arguments against used (or new) motor oil. If you want to harden steel, use veggie oil, like canola oil. Or use water for waterhardening steel alloys. And Yes! they do exist!

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  •  5ton Press Brake Bender 3 in 1

    I really like the idea with the magnets! Am gonna copy that ;o)A note on safety, please use safety goggles when you're using any kind of power tools, and this is a power tool! If anything capsizes or shatters (like the nut), it may rocket out of the press, and you don't really want to be in the receiving end ;o)Stay safe m8

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  • Midgaardssmeden commented on Make it Extreme's instructable DIY Spot Welder3 years ago
    DIY Spot Welder

    Turbo, it's a bit more complicated. If you're drawing 8.3 A at 120 V, then you must understand that this is at the primary part of the transformer. The interesting bit is how much will you get from the secondary windings? The whole idea with a transformer in this setup is to lower the voltage, and increase the amps.... So basically, there are 2 ways of finding out: You can measure the voltage during a welding cycle, and apply Ohms law, or you can do it the easy way, using an Amp-meter, such as a clamp- meter. I was interested in the welding current, as this is what tells you what the welder can do.... And for the nerds ;o) I know fully well this is AC, and that you should take cos phi into consideration as well, but I'm not interested in a figure with 8 decimals ;o)

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  • Midgaardssmeden commented on Make it Extreme's instructable DIY Spot Welder3 years ago
    DIY Spot Welder

    Thanxx for the answer. I fully understand that it can be hard to eyeball the power. I was hoping that such a sophisticated fabricator as yourself might have a clamp meter. Couple of 100's is not bad at all, obviously theres a long way to industrial 14 kA, but I'm sure you can get away with some pretty weldings....

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  • Midgaardssmeden commented on Make it Extreme's instructable DIY Spot Welder3 years ago
    DIY Spot Welder

    Excellent piece of fabrication!Do you have any idea of what sorts of amperage you're getting from that transformer?

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